# Proper Socapex wiring



## journeymanjohn

I've never used it. Allways had a hardwired system when hanging in theaters, and too small of a system to really warrant it in the clubs. Have been thinking about using some with my upcoming system though.

I thought it was a H,N,& G for each circuit. Is this not the case anylonger?? I have seen alot of 14 conductor advertised as 6 circuit soca.

So what's the deal?? How many grounding conductors??

I did try a search here for the info, and a google search, but must be searching incorrectly, as I am coming up short.

Thanks!!


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## DBFJohn

This might help.

http://ww4.usitt.org/bookstore/downloads/rp1.pdf


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## Footer

12/14 Soca is the most common out there in the lighting world. All of the grounds are summed into two lines. Each circuit still retains its neutral. 12/18 does exist as well. Some people will run 8 circuits off of it, once again summing the grounds down 2 lines. 12/18 is usually used by audio company to power line arrays. Rarely is it used in the lighting world.


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## journeymanjohn

Thanks.

I read it as six hots, six neutrals (grounded), and either two or six grounding conductors...either way, all the grounding pins are bonded together.

It read to me as though the two conductor method is preferred.


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## ship

journeymanjohn said:


> Thanks.
> 
> I read it as six hots, six neutrals (grounded), and either two or six grounding conductors...either way, all the grounding pins are bonded together.
> 
> It read to me as though the two conductor method is preferred.



Just make sure those grounds are bonded together in doing 12/14 cable into plug on both ends. A Soco cable tester to rent or buy is a good thing to use each time before use as some grounding rings work properly at times but at other times with just how they bend and flex and or aign don't at others. Question of many companies by way of grounding ring. Once a bad grounding ring you don't have ground to circuits.

Too much solder bonding grounding ring you now have liquid electric arching between all conductors should you get a good voltage spike, poor design you might not have a ground. Soco is a trained thing that if not so well or in pre-testing the cable before use you are better off with the 12/18 cable type.


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## DCATTechie

What about 19-pin soca? And what exactly is the difference between 12/14 and 12/18 soca?


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## derekleffew

19-pin Socapex-compatible is what's being discussed, DCAT. 12/14 is 14 conductors of 12 AWG; 12/18 is 18 conductors of 12 AWG. The debate about whether each circuit needs its own, independent ground wire or if it's acceptable to gang all the grounds together has been continuing almost since the beginning of using that connector in our industry, by, I believe, James Thomas Engineering of the UK, in the early 1980s. The earliest cables had conductors capable of only carrying about 10A, just enough for a single 1K par can. 14/14 cable is still used by some shops. In the US, 20A cable didn't really take off until it replaced the Pyle-National StarLine 12/37 multi-cable used by the NY lighting shops.

The center, 19th is un-wired, unused, except in one very special circumstance. Anyone know what that is?


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## SHARYNF

DCATTechie said:


> What about 19-pin soca? And what exactly is the difference between 12/14 and 12/18 soca?


the CONNECTORS are 19 pin it is the wire connecting them that has two options, the most common is 12/14 which is 12 awg with 14 conductors, each connection as a hot/neutral and then all the ground pins are summed (connected together) into TWO conductors.

In the audio world, there has been a use of the soca 19 connectors to use for multiple audio feeds, in this application, typically there are 18 conductors used

Sharyn


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## DCATTechie

What do you mean when you say conductors?


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## SHARYNF

DCATTechie said:


> What do you mean when you say conductors?



AHH yes nations divided by a common language ;-)

in this case what I am saying is that the cable will have 14 individual insulated wires 12awg 

Socapex - entertainment connectors for stage lighting, audio, SL61 19 pins

Sharyn


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## DCATTechie

So each conductor has how many wires going to it? Sorry if I'm missing something here, it's late.


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## epimetheus

Conductor is another term for wire. Thery're interchangable terms in this case.


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## mrb

derekleffew said:


> The center, 19th is un-wired, unused, except in one very special circumstance. Anyone know what that is?



im going to guess the answer to that has '400' in it 

I also seem to recall it being used in the cable between VL6 ballast/power supply thing and the smart repeater, but that was around 14 years ago so who knows......


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## SHARYNF

there are companies that do make cables that use all 19 connections and have 14/19 cable used

http://www.dura-flex.com/pdf/14192586ss.pdf


Sharyn


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## DCATTechie

So in 12/14, only 14 pins are used?


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## mrb

DCATTechie said:


> So in 12/14, only 14 pins are used?




18 pins are used, the six ground pins are connected to the two grounding condutors in the cable via a ground ring installed at the connector.


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## icewolf08

For DCATTechie:

On a socapex break in/out (fan in/out) each of the tails is 12/3. So you have 3 conductors (individual wires in the cable) that connect to the three pins in the stage pin (or whatever connector your break in/outs use). Those three conductors are wired to three of the pins in the 19-pin pin socapex connector. This is the same for each of the six tails. This means that you have 18 conductors that are connected to 18 of the 19 pins in the socapex connector.

On the multi-cable side you usually see one of two types of cable: 12/14 or 12/18. This means that the cable has either 14 or 18 12AWG conductors. If it has 18, then they are wired up to the same 18 pins that the break in/outs are wired to. If it has 14 then all of the ground pins (which happen to be the middle ring of pins in the connector and the center pin) are bonded together and we connect two conductors, one each to two of the ground pins. So, while only 14 pins have a conductor attached to them, all of the grounds are tied to two pins.


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## journeymanjohn

Are there certain brands of soco connectors that are either preferred or shunned?? Are some known to have better designed bonding rings, better connection points, construction quality??

Also, 12 gauge conductors considered 2k or 1k (for de-ratiing)?? And what opinions do you all hold towards the PVC as opposed to the rubber jacket.

As I will mainly be in bars/clubs, I am not sure that I am required to use the heavy duty SO, but know from experience how durable it is. I imagine the PVC is MUCH lighter though.


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## mstaylor

The PVC is extremely hard to wrap. It doesn't break in either.


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## JD

As for de-rating... good question, but could you imagine lugging around 100 foot loops of 10/18 ?? Can you say "Theater Strike?" PVC does turn into a frozen garden hose in winter on the road, but I remember the days of hauling elephant d**k cables, and I would rather make sure the cable loads in first and warms up than put my back through that again! (not sure how you would get 10/18 into the connectors.)

Generally, the 14 is considered 1k and the 12 is considered 2k. Not sure how the 1k jives with the #12 minimum in stage work, but it is a lot lighter! 

Steve Terry could probably answer some of the code specifics, and what may (or may not) have exemptions. The grounding issue has always intrigued me, but 12/14 appears to be the norm.


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## ship

Lex Products has re-designed their LSC19-LMC LX plug’s grounding ring so as to better ensure the outer ring won’t bend with us thus not bond. Huge problem I have found over the years. TBA on final testing of it if the outer ring thickness is sufficient but very possibly a good grounding ring system. TMB’s PS19LM plug’s grounding ring quite frankly in my opinion and observation with them and the movement of pins inside an insert has been known to come loose. It not only not is not sufficient with use provide contact 100% of the time - but and as seen at times you get a free floating grounding ring inside a plug when it comes loose. This in addition to needing snap ring pliers to install or remove. 

Note: in a very important way, both plugs were very tested by the factory and are UL listed in compliance - most likely you will not see what I have in both cases but I have in large volume voiced both concern and have seen a large amount of both fail in not always connecting. This if not have that grounding ring go free floating about inside a connector.

ITT/Veam’s VSC06SL-32S-19P-F80(29) plug’s grounding ring I could never figure out well in how to install properly without the spring pressure spreading on install or use and losing contact. Thus not conducting all the way with use but is perhaps the best design in that it while very difficult to properly install, it does seem to work best. Creative Stage Lighting LKSI-19U-MV2-C plug I believe uses the same or only a little different than the Veam for grounding ring but is a little less user friendly yet for installing. On the other hand it’s a bit thicker so it might do a better job. SpaceCraft Components... CS0x19FV(29) plug never got a sample of their plug - only been a few years of vendor rep’s every year visiting me and requesting a sample, I’m sure its on the way. Believe their grounding ring would be similar to that of Veam. 

Socapex vendor rep. in coming out with their really good SL61 419AR series of plug designed it around the 12/18 concept. Totally forgot the grounding ring concept. For the female side they did design a interesting and unique grounding ring but discontinued it. Still make the male side grounding ring which is external to the plug in application and expensive but useful for other plugs - say lamp bars using like 16/14 cable that never had grounding rings before on the whips.

Too bad Sebastien Jacquet the US rep for Socapex is no longer around. Good guy and tried hard to make this good plug design that has lived up well in time as rugged a good option for plug without worrying about the French vacations. Socapex has gone back into their hole for communication since him.... only been like two months, might get my Socapex #337 male plug covers eventually given the tour left a month and a half ago. Getting them to re-design such a plug of course in easily especially for the panel mount seizing up, breaking or breaking pins especially if solder type... out of the question. “Silly American, there is no problem with these plugs.” This given tens of thousands of dollars worth of mistake in having invested in their #337 plug and no option for going with something better say Wirlwind for multi-circuit data.

The SLX series of Soco plug on the other hand is a really good plug, (second only to my Stainless Steel plugs from Veam or Lex in lasting over any other) and the Socapex monopc plug is with training easier and faster to install., unfortunately they don’t work well with 12/14 cable. On the other hand their weather tight cord grip Euro-style multi cable size grip tends to fail under pressure say of clamping down on the cable over time in use. (Replace such a cable grip O-ring with a solid one and all good in this way.) The screw threads on the body to head also strip easily, but if properly installed don’t require tools they say or with tools to lock down especially a monkey wrench on the name plate, they don’t come unscrewed in a way that other brands of plugs normally need VibraTite for metal to metal connections and Weatherstrip Adhesive for metal to plastic connections on the plug so as to keep them tight. The Socapex MonoPc also don’t require heat shrinking between pins or any glue types on the treads to keep it together with use. Saves money and time.

On the Socapex MonoPc great plug for endurance somehow even if aluminum, they don’t strip out the key way as fast as all other brands of plug unless Stainless Steel (special order from Lex or Veam and possible from LK/Creative) which won’t strip at the keyway given steel as opposed to aluminum. Keyway stripping out takes hundreds of connections or only a few bad connections to stripped things they are connecting to. Once the keyway that aligns the pins stripps it’s like a virus to the rest of the similar plugged gear in your system in stripping them out, this much less spun inserts that hold the pins which now rotate a few degrees in connecting hot to neutral or no longer connecting or not being able to remove. Spun rubber inserts that hold the pins is a warranty thing and can happen without a stripped keyway but is also virus in if you have stripped male or female keyways you also get it. Gluing rubber insert to aluminum or even stainless steel is difficult and don’t always work, but on the other hand that little say 1/8" keyway that keeps this type of plug aligned is with un-screwing often easy to strip out. Gotta pull the plug while un-screwing - don’t just unscrew in that it will wear out the screw threads and eventually wear out the keyway. Coefficient of resistance in aluminum is X (don’t have my backstage handbook notes with that figure on this computer yet,) = overall aluminum is highly resistant in friction. That tends to wear out screw threads and keyways. Stainless steel connected to a bad aluminum keyway also has the same problem in if not wearing out the keyway, it might spin the insert.

Short of a system of grounding the female side of the plug using Veam grounding rings and solder and like three stacked up expensive male side grounding rings for the Socapex MonoPC plug, such plugs don’t work well with 12/14 cable. (Don’t know why Socapex discontinued their female grounding ring as it was a really good concept.) The Socapex male side grounding ring loosens up with use and don’t connect at random as often seen on many plugs grounding rings with all conductors as with other grounding ring types (seeing a theame here with no grounding ring being sufficient here?). Brilliant design for a grounding ring on the male side but too thin in the fingers of the grounding ring that connect to the pins often in often bending in use in such a way they don’t connect. Stack a few grounding rings up and as per a lief spring and it might work as an expensive solution - or at least concept in solution. 

The outside the plug male Socapex grounding ring is a great concept but even were it to work you still have the problem of mostly such a male plug is attached to the dimmer with its own grounding ring or per circuit grounding wire, on the female side you have a fan-out or what is it called branch out or output with individual circuits for cables. Short of that fan-out having its own grounding ring which normally they don’t have, 2/3 of your circuits are no longer grounded. Again I did come up with a system for solder/Veam grounding ring for the female side but such a system from the factory is a problem in wiring cable with their plugs.

OK... so overall, I’m not so far a fan of any grounding ring used on most modern plugs. I don’t note such plugs as the old style Socapex with its solder type two sided body, the Kupo or the KC series from TMB. Also above only mentioned crimp style plugs with it assumed a crimp style connector. Such plugs with their retaining rings often also spin and or that retaining ring falls apart. Screws from the body fall out and “expert tech people” put the wrong replacement screws into them, their body to head keyways break, nylon glides break off etc - total crap of a plug I would never use or consider. Old style ain’t for me in while for many it is fine and never had a problem - they fail far too easily.

I also do not do solder style plugs if I can help it (can do it and do it properly and do at times) - they if properly done can last fine assuming its properly installed and not a cold solder joint or such a connection don’t get a voltage spike which could melt the solder in a connection in what solder was applied to a connection now pools up and forms liquid pooled electricity in as per water shorting to the next pin. Crimp type pins don’t require solder in making a mechanical connection which by way of pneumatic or ratcheting tools does not release the connection until fully and crimped. A voltage spike won’t effect such a connection - might melt the pin but there won’t be liquid solder melting between pins in having that happen. As with the well above UL listed plugs with their grounds - if supervised by me or one of my staff, I might train you in properly terminating a Soco by way of Solder, it is not preferred or overall used.

On the other hand since I got were I work they have used a solder or solder supported grounding ring. Years back for all 12/14 Soco cable they used a solder only grounding ring between the center six pins. My initial improvement to that was as opposed to using pins 13 and 18 for the crimped pins with all else in the solder ring was path of least resistance. Pins 14 and 17 would be as a general concept be better for any grounding path of least resistance concept and easier to remove. Later I started using a 3" copper foil from a CamLoc plug’s ferrule 1/4" wide so as to once sized at 3/8" dia, become both mechanical connection to the pin and require less solder to connect such a wrap of copper to the ground pins. Less solder means less potential liquid electric should such a plug get submerged in water assuming a hot pin failed in the first place.

Hard to get manufacturers to follow such a concept of a solder supported grounding ring on the other hand. They have their mechanical means that often fail with use which is cheaper to do. I don’t agree with industry standard in it failing. Normal end users could use any number of above plug types and never find a problem, greater volume I see problems with all above.

Hmm, stainless steel in plug insert type... not cheap unless buying in like 100pc bulk. Socapex, great as long as you do modification and the not authorized separate grounding ring for the female side as most needed. Other in general plug types for 12/14 cable, get it from the factory, buy a cable tester and return the cable should it fail in testing before each use.


Short of that the 12/18 cable while more expensive might be more safety thing if going Soco but not testing your cable or able to fix or crimp plug it. Manufacturers and even other lighting companies do either send their people to me for training or pay me to fix or look at their cable and plugs. Most all cable and plug companies would love to have their plug and cable the one I choose. The above is my observation. About almost eleven years now as me as the primary buyer and repairer for cable and plugs with a few hundred bought per year. My photo is on quite a few dart boards for suppliers to get past. “We bring it to you because we feel you will give it the best play test or analisis.”

P.S. to this all in brass tacks I normally provide in opinion to manufacturers is the new molded Soco cable now on the market. Lex and TMB now both have it. I think Star.... also has it as with a few others or they will soon.

First worry for me is in cable repair - once bad that’s a non-reparable cable plug. Talking like bulk dealer cost over $50.00 per plug now needing to be replaced plus labor just for some failure already shown with such brands grounding ring systems, it could be a big expensive problem. 
Also assuming either brand of cable solved their grounding ring problems inside that molded plug which would especially at the last minute require me if found a bad grounding ring me to replace the entire plug in non-end user servacable plug so as to get it out the door that night and not being able to “just send it back”. Six inches less per side each repair adds up given a truss don’t shrink in size and at times a 100' cable cannot be one foot shorter each time it fails in paying now for a cable that cannot just be fixed or parts of it at least saved.

On the other hand, if such a plug won’t fail - they say... great advantage, my department has lots of other stuff to work on, been a few months.. Expect my sample cables are on the way to play in that they don’t strip out as per aluminum, any play test you send me must be Stainless. I won’t waste time on Aluminum and given its Stainless and won’t wear out and assuming your grounding ring don’t fail in coming back to see me.... we in a year or two might buy into such a system.

On The other hand:
Overall, most manufacturers for strain relief on cable have a PG-29 size of strain relief similar to what the Veam standard has always used. For the most part its an adequate thickness of plastic sufficient to strain relief a 12/14 cable in not breaking with use. For a while in recent years TMB and Lex went to a PG-36 strain relief and provided their own versions of strain relief rubber grip donut for each strain relief. Various donuts for cable size and it would now supplement the now lost to the industry KK clamp from Veam for a fan-out until such a patient expired. Lex’s Spider grip is good and perhaps best at this point but not as good as the Veam KK clamp now gone from the industry.

So the major contendors to the Veam seemingly wanted a body and strain relief sufficient to fit six individual SJ cables at some point in re-design of the plug and they went PG-36 in size of strain relief. Sure you could request a donut for gripping what ever size of cable you wished for but as a general concept, the larger the circle the larger the thickness of plastic in that circle that would be required to support the same stress. A PG-36 strain relief is the same thickness as that of a PG-29 clamp thus breaks more easily. Lex switched back to PG-29, TMB don’t know what they did if anything. As with grounding ring problems, the strain relief puts my photo back on the dart board with them no doubt as when I po-po’d their plugs with different than Bates plug parts.

So as one can see, the Soco plug industry is fairly wide and there is definate differences in them. The molded Soco style assuming Lex figured out their grounding ring sufficiently would be superior to that of the TMB grounding ring - this assuming the normal TMB grounding ring is used on a molded plug. This or the molded either brand plug once molded won’t have problems of breaking in that strain relief. 

Lex in twofer tends to have more problems with their thermoplastic twofer bonding for a twofer splice body than that of TMB that buys SO twofers from Woodhead in bonding rubber to rubber for permanent bonded much less heat and usage better twofers. Given this bonding process, assuming both make thermoplasic multi-cable, Lex has problems in bonding for strain relief, TMB for twofer is unknown. Difficult question site unseen or tested so far.

Overall opinion is slanted in that what I see for Soco cable is often more used than that of other end users given over a thousand in the inventory, and our cable is tested before each use so I will see a bad ground and or such plugs on the testers tend to see a lot of use in play testing all brands of plug. Given that extra hard service, I don’t unless really hard up in needing it other than accept other plugs than stainless steel Soco plugs only Veam, Lex or with time LK (Link) or Spacecraft could supply with time. On the other hand, unless with any except once Lex gears up, such stainless plugs won’t be available unless in like 100pc bulk orders or economical with volume direct as OEM. Even if Lex gears up a stainless line, they will be more expensive than the aluminum option. Veam standard VSC but stainless steel head and all aluminum body for me takes two to three months to get and while cheaper than others in OEM volume in, I’m buying like 100x two two three times a year in getting a good competitive price. Other theater suppliers wouldn’t in quoting a few Stainless plug heads would not be able to get a good price. Long term verses the market wants a certain cost and less life type question, this much less volume. If the only one buying stainless steel for plug head, not much market share.

Hard to sell going Stainless Steel both given most end users don’t note stripped aluminum keyways or in general buy enough plugs so as to be noticed. Same with grounding rings etc with even the PG-36 strain relief. For end user use with only a few cables bought most cables and perhaps the molded ones will be fine if not best.

One concept for a cable is the warranty and buying some spares. They warranty their cable, send it back for them to fix if it fails. Buy a cable tester in a good investment for safety. Your cable as a concept shouldn’t go bad and if it does it should be replaced as a concept of general use. Many a theater no matter what brand of plug or cable used I’m sure would never see a problem or persay never have tested for a problem as often more the case.

Newest TMB cable/lamp bar tester - really cool.. Don't yet tell what wattage of lamp is on your lamp bar per circuit but is able to test a cable on live power as a cool concept as with lamp bar or continuity of Soco circuits. 2x past cable testers some "bright" individual in the past plugged into live power in blowing up - yea.. I guess it was line voltage in that we were testing for continuity. Gee... I just don't know how this went wrong in somehow zapping the circuit board that was designed to test continuity. The TMB tester is much better and a good design even if it lacks good Soco plugs or a hook to hang it from.


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## ship

Also as a general concept, what might be rated for 10A for say a SO cable with that man concuctors is not what is comparable for a engineered product multi-cable by any number of manufacters that while using the same gauge of wire per circuit, are able to carry 20A per circuit.

Strainge and shouldn't if a general understanding of multi-cable it shoud not be rated for 20A if normal cable and indeed normal SO cable of equal conductors are not, but the engineered cable is rated for it. This as with an industry standard downrating for its usage. Even if maxed out in say striking 2.4K in arc lamp moving light wattage, once the arc is struck it is no longer carrying full load. For full wattage linear filament lamps the same expected in that they won't be carrying their full load all the time in intensity - dimming.

Abought my sufficiency of understanding of it, engineered product designed for the use, and not 24/7 full use as other industrial uses might need design factor use for.


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## skienblack

Can anyone speak to the diffuculty of wiring the Soca end? We are thinking of trying to fish a multi-cable through a piece of conduit already housing another multi-cable and the only way to feasibly do it would be to remove one of the Soca ends and fish the bare wire. My fear is putting the end back on will be worse that trying to fish the wire with connector on it. Thanks


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## icewolf08

skienblack said:


> Can anyone speak to the diffuculty of wiring the Soca end? We are thinking of trying to fish a multi-cable through a piece of conduit already housing another multi-cable and the only way to feasibly do it would be to remove one of the Soca ends and fish the bare wire. My fear is putting the end back on will be worse that trying to fish the wire with connector on it. Thanks



First off, I believe that it is against code to pull a jacketed cable made for stage use through a conduit. I could be wrong here, so I default to others on this. You also have to make sure that you are not overfilling your conduit.

Second, wiring up a Socapex end is a PITA. It is doable, but in my experience I prefer to do it with at least one other person. If you are using a solder-type connector then you just need a lot of patience and a steady hand. If you are using a crimp connector then you will need the right crimping tool, but it should be easier to build.


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## skienblack

icewolf08 said:


> Second, wiring up a Socapex end is a PITA. It is doable, but in my experience I prefer to do it with at least one other person. If you are using a solder-type connector then you just need a lot of patience and a steady hand. If you are using a crimp connector then you will need the right crimping tool, but it should be easier to build.



The cable is currently wired up to the Socapex end, we would be removing it to allow it to more easily fit through the large conduit running from our FOH catwalk to our booth position.

As for the question of wether it is in code or not. I am not sure, I know there is already another one in the pipe that was run many years ago.  Thanks.


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## JD

I think you would have to use type TC "tray cable" 
http://www.servicewire.com/downloads/tray_XHHW_2.pdf

Still, the de-rating might kill you. (In conduit.) Remember "Soca" is an engineered cable and as such does not meet spec for installs.


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## SHARYNF

it is all about the heat/resistance issue of a cable that is designed to be free standing.

Now, there is a difference between Soca Connections, and soca Cable what you might be able to do is to get your self some panel mounted soca connectors, and using the correct tray/conduit rated cable run the 6 lines and just solder/crimp them to the panel mount, then you just add tails or regular soca that is free to air.

Personally I think that will work best, and still allow you to use your existing soca cable for other purposes. I would think that with the right took crimping probably works better.

Sharyn


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