# Cutawl blades?



## SweetBennyFenton

So, I was rummaging around in one of the forgotten corners of my shop the other day and I uncovered an artifact of epic wonder... a Cutawl K11.

I had never used one before but man, this thing is great! It's the perfect tool for making complex scroll cuts on luan.

That being said... it only had 4 blades in the case. I am about to start using the tool on a set project and I want to have spare blades on hand but I'm having a hard time finding them. Hell, most tool shops don't even seem to know what a cutawl is.

I've found a few blades on e-bay but before I bought those I thought I would check in to see if any of you have a cutawl and if you know of anyplace to buy blades.

Thanks!


----------



## derekleffew

Cutawl Tool / Hand Tools & Fasteners / Home - Mutual Hardware
BMI Supply Now Distributes Cutawl Saws
K-11 Cutawl Cutting Machine
$2319.00?!



Here's a nice description of many blades:

http://www.tylersdisplay.net/Cutawl-s/20.htm

In case you've lost the manual: http://facweb.furman.edu/~rbryson/dramadept/CutAwl/K11K12Manual.html.

So many fond memories of hours/day/weeks cutting Upson Board with a Cutawl.


----------



## SweetBennyFenton

Yup... that's the one. Wow, that's a hell of a price. I wonder how much the old TD payed for it when he bought it back in... hell the 50's maybe? 

Thanks for the blade guide. It looks like the one I want is the #23D blade.

$60 for a pack of 10 blades... I guess that's not too bad seeing how they haven't been in business for a while.


----------



## BrianWolfe

I have been using Cutawls since 1979. It is the best tool for scrollwork I have ever laid my hands on. We get out blades and parts from Helmold (800)323-8898.


----------



## esue315

Would you be able to tell me where to find simple directions for the best way to use the cutawl. We are trying to move beyond the learning curve and would love helpful tips.

Thanks


----------



## BrianWolfe

As was noted before here is the owner's manual:

The K-11 K-12 Cutawl Manual

One of the best tricks is to place your material on a piece of inexpensive foam board and cut right through and into the foam. The foam will support the work and won't dull the blade.


----------



## derekleffew

I always used homasote as a cutting surface. An important point to remember it that the tool is an awl, not a saw--it cuts on the downstroke. One application I used to use a lot is to cut a wallpaper stencil out of rigid polystyrene sheeting, the same material as used for vacuforming. Took a long time to cut, but lasted forever.


----------



## Van

derekleffew said:


> .... One application I used to use a lot is to cut a wallpaper stencil out of rigid polystyrene sheeting, the same material as used for vacuforming. Took a long time to cut, but lasted forever.


 
I do that with thin polysterene and my Vinyl cutter/plotter. I love my vinyl cutter.


----------



## kicknargel

I'm heading way off-topic. Van: what vinyl cutter/plotter do you use? I've casually thought about investing in one but always wondered if I could really be happy with anything I could actually afford.


----------



## mstaylor

Upson board is something I haven't heard in a long time. Homosote I still use once a year with Lippizoner Stallions. And I'm sure I smoked the spelling on the stallions name.


----------



## shoodtd

The place I'd go to buy blades is helmold.com. They seem to be one of the only places I've found that still carries the tool, still in K12 version, I believe. I've used both the K11 and K12, and it's a lucky day when you find one. There are several on both eBay and Etsy as of this writing, and they'd be worth the investment as long as they are wired to run on AC. Some of the older versions were, I think, intended to run on DC only, but the functionality and basic operating procedures don't seem to have changed much at all since the earliest iterations of the tool. I saw photos of a K6, and, aside from the motor housing, it seems to operate the same as the K12 does.

Hope this helps. Don't forget to lube the sliding bits.


----------



## Scott Ferrall

shoodtd said:


> The place I'd go to buy blades is helmold.com. They seem to be one of the only places I've found that still carries the tool, still in K12 version, I believe. I've used both the K11 and K12, and it's a lucky day when you find one. There are several on both eBay and Etsy as of this writing, and they'd be worth the investment as long as they are wired to run on AC. Some of the older versions were, I think, intended to run on DC only, but the functionality and basic operating procedures don't seem to have changed much at all since the earliest iterations of the tool. I saw photos of a K6, and, aside from the motor housing, it seems to operate the same as the K12 does.
> 
> Hope this helps. Don't forget to lube the sliding bits.



Helmold is the worst company to deal with. If I were you, find another company that sells the blades. They seem uninterested in supporting this product. The woman in the "sales" department must be the bosses niece.


----------



## Rally

Scott Ferrall said:


> Helmold is the worst company to deal with. If I were you, find another company that sells the blades. They seem uninterested in supporting this product. The woman in the "sales" department must be the bosses niece.


Partwell in the U.K. still supply blades for Cutawl at a very reasonable price http://www.partwell.com/ also http://www.pemarules.com/manual-die-making-equipment/cutawl.html


----------



## Scott Ferrall

Rally said:


> Partwell in the U.K. still supply blades for Cutawl at a very reasonable price http://www.partwell.com/ also http://www.pemarules.com/manual-die-making-equipment/cutawl.html


I've used Taylor Display in Atlanta Ga . http://www.tylersdisplay.com/Other-Supplies/cutawl-equipment.html but when I had to get parts for my machine, it was a three month ordeal from Helmold."


----------

