# Crimping Right Angle quick connects



## danTt

Hi,

I had to replace some insulated right angle quick connectors recently, but I can't figure out how to crimp them properly. If you use standard crimpers, the crimpers will destroy the insulation or the spade when you try to press down. I ended up using a pair of pliers, which holds but is obviously not ideal. Is there a trick to it or is there a special tool?

Thanks,


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## DrPinto

Those are called "Insulated Flag Terminals". Google that term. I think the tool you're looking for is this:

AWG 14-16, 18-22 - Insulated Flag Terminals Crimp Tool - Ergo Frame | ShowMeCables.com


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## derekleffew

Some displacement/distortion of the insulation is to be expected when crimping any insulated connector. See the thread http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/lighting-electrics/6597-crimp-connector-crimper.html .


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## gafftapegreenia

DrPinto said:


> Those are called "Insulated Flag Terminals". Google that term. I think the tool you're looking for is this:
> 
> AWG 14-16, 18-22 - Insulated Flag Terminals Crimp Tool - Ergo Frame | ShowMeCables.com



Finally, a crimper I'm not compelled to buy. Can't say I've ever had to crimp an insulated flag terminal.


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## avkid

gafftapegreenia said:


> Finally, a crimper I'm not compelled to buy. Can't say I've ever had to crimp an insulated flag terminal.



I don't believe I have ever seen one.


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## epimetheus

The only really handy use I can see for them is on the back of powercon connectors if you've got them mounted in a shallow electrical box. Or really any application where you've got a quick disconnect tab, but not much clearance behind it.


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## 65535

Klein Tools -Crimping/Cutting Tool — Non-Insulated/Insulated Connectors

I use that for the crimps I need to do.


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## DrPinto

65535 said:


> Klein Tools -Crimping/Cutting Tool — Non-Insulated/Insulated Connectors
> 
> I use that for the crimps I need to do.



That's exactly the type of tool that will destroy insulated flag connectors!


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## ship

Clarification on insulated flag quick disconnect terminals as it relates to flag old school ring terminal flag stuff for old union plug terminations, and how it relates overall to Powercon? Just trying to catch up in wondering is anyone using flag quick disconnect terminals inside Powercon plugs? Powercon plugs suck especially given Pozi drive but I have never used a terminal or even ferrule in literally hundreds of them wired up over the past couple of years.

Think this somehow has become a confused concept combination related to yes- a ground off cutting tip to a Stakon type tool as the best option for crimping a flag terminal, to something otherwise in debate. Sorry and please explain further in understanding. 

This a question of insulation displacement verses crushing otherwise in how to crimp a insulated quick disconnect terminal? I would say as per any flag terminal. Insulation displacement in a tool crimping the wire not matter what insulation in smashing gets displaced still gets a better crimp than any smashing form or crimping that doesn't have sufficient pressure on all conductor strands once the strands get heated up or settle. Vise grips are not crimp tools.


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## Chris15

ship - I think the discussion is with the panel mounted PowerCons...


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## danTt

The flag terminals I'm talking about specifically connect to the power switch on a vl3500. The switch has gone bad, and the old connectors are showing signs of being burned. I'd much prefer to just replace the disconnect than the entire harness when possible, but couldn't figure out how to crimp the terminals. Thank you for the tool suggestion.


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## gafftapegreenia

While in general I prefer my crimping tools to have a nice "tooth" the bite into the terminal, there are times where preserving the integrity of the insulation is important. Now, the "crushing" type crimpers, such as the kind found behind the pivot on some pliers, the kind on cut/strip/crimp combo tools, or even the uninsulated slot on the Klein 1005, are poorly suited to providing a truly effective crimp. They will work, but they are not ideal. In such a situation, there are two options. 1)Use a tooth style crimper and then cover the insulated terminal with heat shrink tubing to replace the damaged insulation or 2) buy a connector style specific ratcheting crimp tool. 

I personally have yet to actually invent in a ratchet style tool because I just don't do enough crimping to justify one. If that changes, you will all surely find out. Right now the two crimpers I reach for the most are the Greenlee 1923 and the Channellock 909. I could find 5 similar tools to each, but with minor design differences. Those are just two I like. Any tool where the crimper is before the pivot in the handles I just find very difficult to crimp with as it takes so much hand force. 

Next time I have a bunch of surplus cash, I might get this Snap On model. Great design, but its at a Snap on price. 


Here is a link to one of the best articles I have read on crimping terminals, which some good suggestions for cost effective ratchet crimpers. Marine Wire Termination Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

As for insulated flag terminals, they look like they really might justify their own specific crimper. I hope I don't run into them as I don't feel like buying their crimper "just in case". Let the shop or the road crew buy that one. 

By the way, you know how many stage pin connectors use ferrules these days? Those ferrules are actually supposed to be crimped onto the wire BEFORE being inserted into the connector and secured with the set screw. In actual practice I'm certain that nearly no one does this.

Also, who said Vise Grips can't be used for crimping?


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## ship

Who says Vise Grips are for crimping... where you been, just about everyone in the industry including professional companies uses them in what I see at times. Pliers, vise, Vise Grips or even hammer. Smash that terminal - you bet it, I have seen it and I doubt others have not seen it either.

Was use of a bad example of how crimps are often made but not unusual as a concept of smashing the crimp verses displacing that crimp. Anyone seen a vise grip made crimp or worse? Yes! I would suspect at times. This and at times after the show and without proper markings as to something to check after done with the show so as to inspect. 

Problems with your own links on the first two tools are as similar but more multi-tool than that of Klien #1005 tools without their cutting jaws removed. You in ring terminal or especially crimping and crushing quick disconnect terminals in getting proper crimping on the wire yet also destoying the quick disconnect by way of all the jazz in front of it crushing it. Should everything be grinded away in front of the crimp, the stops are also removed and it’s now finger tension - that will crimp it in a question of fitting the crimp barrel in size.

As for insulation displacement terminals in using tooth tools verses crushing tools, I ignore the insulation and displace the material as if un-insulated. I would rather a proper crimp E-Taped over or heat shrinked over when not sufficient air gap to something that might fail with expansion and contraction or being worried about some small recessed spot exposing conductor part of the material.

Something properly terminated and not absolutely next to another terminal as normally, won’t be jumping for an arc. Something preserving outer insulation of a terminal but preserving it by way of crushing might in expansion and contraction wire settling overheat and short at some point once that outer insulation melts or breaks away due to overheating from the bad connection.

Call me crazy etc. all wanted, and even have the example of the third ratching crimp tool that’s somwhat useful for the tooth style of it. 14+ years in specific study on the subject and get paid well due to what I figured out in compiling in study with another with about double that in experience in studying this. 

Crushing a terminal = bad. Displacing a terminal = good. Outer insulation is insulation but in thinking it’s not compromised due to crushing verses displacement is only a question of where the pressure is applied and how thick it is in any one area. Do not damage the terminal first goal in properly displacement of the terminal second. Next insulation about the terminal as supported as needed.

Sorry if disagreeing in what’s really simple otherwise I think. Get them terminals properly crimped, than worry about insulation in if spacing proper or needing to add to it.


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