# Reverse Turnbuckle?



## Phantom_Sandwich (Apr 20, 2015)

Is there anything out there like a 'reverse turnbuckle'? Similar to shower curtain rod, that is a little more industrial. Something that spreads outwards by turning....well...a turnbuckle.

Basically trying to hang 3 lightweight paper lanterns in between two brick columns. The problem is that the columns go (from the floor) through the ceiling, up to the next floor. There is an opening (kind of window) where I can get up above the ceiling and still see the columns. I am trying to create 'outwards pressure' between the columns so that I have a 'beam' of sorts to hang the lanterns from. I don't want people to see the rod, just the lanterns. The width of the window is about 3ft. (see really crappy attached photo).

A shower curtain rod would probably work as the total weight of these lanterns is about 3lbs. I am just trying to see if there is anything better out there that I can re-use for other purposes. (Basically saying a shower curtain rod is a stupid idea and I am trying my hardest to get something a little more 'professional')

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
John


----------



## Jay Ashworth (Apr 20, 2015)

I believe that they make scaffolding components which comprise a long bar with levers to extended it at each end so it can be secured between two walls. They're going to be much much heavier though.


----------



## techieman33 (Apr 20, 2015)

They make load bars for pickup trucks that are basically a heavy duty version of a shower curtain rod.


----------



## Jay Ashworth (Apr 20, 2015)

Right; damnit, those were what I was thinking of.

Logistics gear is the magic word for the heavier stuff, I think.


----------



## AudJ (Apr 20, 2015)

What about a standard pipe clamp/ spreader. Cut a standard pipe and add this. Useful for lots later. Reverse the orange clamp pieces pictured to spread instead of clamp.


----------



## venuetech (Apr 20, 2015)

only for very light weight items

chin-up-bar

http://www.bodybuilding.com/store/p...0&cadevice=c&gclid=CK-tgeyIhsUCFdKFfgod2x0Auw


----------



## lwinters630 (Apr 20, 2015)

Unistrut with bolt and lock nut On each end.


----------



## techieman33 (Apr 20, 2015)

lwinters630 said:


> Unistrut with bolt and lock nut On each end.



That's a good option, if they are allowed to drill holes into the structure, and it's going to be a long term install. For a one off deal it's a lot of extra work for not really any gain.


----------



## Amiers (Apr 20, 2015)

venuetech said:


> only for very light weight items
> 
> chin-up-bar
> 
> http://www.bodybuilding.com/store/p...0&cadevice=c&gclid=CK-tgeyIhsUCFdKFfgod2x0Auw



Holds 220 lbs. I think you will be safe with a 3lb paper lantern. However it does state properly only if it is properly installed. I don't know how well it will lay on the brick since it's not a flat surface.


----------



## Phantom_Sandwich (Apr 21, 2015)

Thanks for the ideas folks!

This is most certainly a one-off, and I do not want to drill into the brick, even if they allow it (which I am sure they don't). 

The pickup truck load bar seems promising, and would definitely be something I could use later. The pipe clamp/spreader also seems like a great idea and something I could use later (however I have never used one with a pipe, just the wood clamp ones, which I am sure its the same way of usage).

I appreciate all the great ideas, I can report on what I use and how well it works once I set this up!

Thanks,
Mr. Sandwich


----------



## kicknargel (Apr 24, 2015)

Want to point out: whatever device you're putting up there is heavier and more dangerous than the paper lanterns. That load bar can kill someone if it falls. Please include a secondary safety that prevents it from falling in case of failure.


----------



## Jay Ashworth (Apr 24, 2015)

I'm embarrassed to admit that that thought had not occurred to me, Nick. Nice get.


----------



## len (Apr 25, 2015)

Is that Alpana Singh's Boarding House? Is part of your compensation going to be a meal? It should be.


----------



## anshu (Apr 29, 2015)

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Autopoles/ci/1407/N/4037060741


----------



## Davecrow (Apr 29, 2015)

Check this wall spreader out used in the video biz- 

http://www.msegrip.com/matthews-wall-spreaders.html


----------



## len (Apr 29, 2015)

Davecrow said:


> Check this wall spreader out used in the video biz-
> 
> http://www.msegrip.com/matthews-wall-spreaders.html



At $130 a unit I think I would look for a rental before purchasing.


----------



## cmckeeman (Apr 29, 2015)

Why can't you rig anything to the ceiling?


----------



## JohnD (Apr 30, 2015)

Is there perchance a steel lintel up above the suspended ceiling? If so how about 3 of these:
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/m...=Lifting-Load-Magnets&infoParam.campaignId=WR


----------



## Phantom_Sandwich (Apr 30, 2015)

For some reason, all I see is brick (even for the 'ceiling' in between the pillars. Sometimes I might just 'choke' the pillars with some aircraft cable, and tie a line in between them. This however is a problem because I do not have access to get 'around' the brick pillars. I probably wouldn't mind even driving a nail into the 'ceiling' if it were wood, and just securing it to the nail (as these paper lanterns do not even have lights in them, I could hold them up with a fan, maybe I should just pay a crew to dress in brick textured clothing and sit their and blow the darn things the entire evening......). 

And Len, yes this is the same one. Surprisingly their plate cost per person for this wedding is about $60 each!? They do have a problem here though. They are somehow going to move 150 people from the main room, to the upstairs (3 floors up) and back down in an hour after cocktails.


----------



## Phantom_Sandwich (Apr 30, 2015)

Oh and JohnD, I have about 150 of magnets similar to those (I think their load rating is 30lbs) with a ring instead of hook. They work awesome in most places with drop ceilings, and tents with steel. They make the work way too easy with these silly paper lanterns. The hard part is removing them from 15ft using a pole because of their strength.


----------



## robartsd (May 1, 2015)

I'd be highly tempted to just use an actual (shower) curtain rod - anything more 'professional' would also likely be heavier, thus posing a greater concern about being overhead.


----------



## Phantom_Sandwich (May 1, 2015)

I totally agree with you about the heaviness. One main issue I have, is that I would prefer something that you can 'ratchet', or turn to expand. Something that can stay up with the outward force my puny arms can provide, and then crank it to a point where there is no way my strength could provide. This next statement isn't an excuse to not be safe, so please take it lightly: The bar will technicially not be over and pathway or any area that people can stand/sit/be under. I will have to climb into a little 'window' of sorts. (I understand it can bounce/fall in a manner that may cause trouble, hence why I am trying to find the safest solution).

Anyone know of any tape (duct/gaff/something?) that works well on brick? This way worst case scenario, a paper ball and piece of tape flutters to the ground.


----------



## Dionysus (May 1, 2015)

Phantom_Sandwich said:


> I totally agree with you about the heaviness. One main issue I have, is that I would prefer something that you can 'ratchet', or turn to expand. Something that can stay up with the outward force my puny arms can provide, and then crank it to a point where there is no way my strength could provide. This next statement isn't an excuse to not be safe, so please take it lightly: The bar will technicially not be over and pathway or any area that people can stand/sit/be under. I will have to climb into a little 'window' of sorts. (I understand it can bounce/fall in a manner that may cause trouble, hence why I am trying to find the safest solution).
> 
> Anyone know of any tape (duct/gaff/something?) that works well on brick? This way worst case scenario, a paper ball and piece of tape flutters to the ground.



The only tape that I can think of off the top of my head that will stick well enough to brick (more than Gaff or Duct will) is Gorilla Tape. Other than that you are getting into stuff that will take some of the brick with it for sure or leave a nasty mess etc.


----------



## kicknargel (May 2, 2015)

Might be worth an experiment with 3M Command products.


----------



## venuetech (May 2, 2015)

brick clip




http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UI7SXO/?tag=controlbooth-20


----------



## len (May 4, 2015)

BTW, I have hundreds of paper lanterns and some battery LED if you're interested.


----------



## len (May 27, 2015)

Curious if the original poster found anything. I now find myself needing a similar product, something which can span roughly 8.5' and not leave a mark on drywall.


----------



## Phantom_Sandwich (May 28, 2015)

Unfortunately haven't made a decision yet. The event is in August so I should know by mid July. I am leaning towards the truck load bar with the ratchet. In your instance I might suggest a peice of felt/burlap to not mar the drywall unless it's out of site. I'll post here/send you a pm when I figure it out. Also if it works for you, I can lend you them if you don't think you'll use them again.


----------



## len (May 30, 2015)

I found a tension curtain rod at Bed Bath and Beyond. $45, but it might work. We'll see.


----------



## Jay Ashworth (May 30, 2015)

Actually, in the not marring the drywall department, let me mention, well, suggest, that expanded rubber stuff that they sell in rolls for putting in the bottom of your silverware drawer. It will serve that purpose and increase the friction coefficient at the same time.


----------



## BillConnerFASTC (May 31, 2015)

I don't think this is what anyone had in mind for this topic, but kind of exactly a reverse turnbuckle or turnbuckle reversed. Sorry it's fuzzy - and eye-eye turnbuckle with end half of each eye cut off, set on inside flanges of head block beam. Not sure why but I plan to ask. Think they were bent?


----------



## len (Nov 28, 2016)

Phantom_Sandwich said:


> Is there anything out there like a 'reverse turnbuckle'? Similar to shower curtain rod, that is a little more industrial. Something that spreads outwards by turning....well...a turnbuckle.
> 
> Basically trying to hang 3 lightweight paper lanterns in between two brick columns. The problem is that the columns go (from the floor) through the ceiling, up to the next floor. There is an opening (kind of window) where I can get up above the ceiling and still see the columns. I am trying to create 'outwards pressure' between the columns so that I have a 'beam' of sorts to hang the lanterns from. I don't want people to see the rod, just the lanterns. The width of the window is about 3ft. (see really crappy attached photo).
> 
> ...



I found this recently. http://www.rakuten.com/prod/impact-...ilver-pair/298412202.html?listingid=525859006


----------



## RonHebbard (Nov 28, 2016)

Phantom_Sandwich said:


> Is there anything out there like a 'reverse turnbuckle'? Similar to shower curtain rod, that is a little more industrial. Something that spreads outwards by turning....well...a turnbuckle.
> 
> Basically trying to hang 3 lightweight paper lanterns in between two brick columns. The problem is that the columns go (from the floor) through the ceiling, up to the next floor. There is an opening (kind of window) where I can get up above the ceiling and still see the columns. I am trying to create 'outwards pressure' between the columns so that I have a 'beam' of sorts to hang the lanterns from. I don't want people to see the rod, just the lanterns. The width of the window is about 3ft. (see really crappy attached photo).
> 
> ...


I've done something like this once but it comes under the heading of 'Silly things I've done once and never thought I'd admit.' 
You can take a length of all-thread, pick your diameter, and put an all-thread coupling nut on both ends then cover over both coupling nuts with a soft-ish crutch tip. Trim your all-thread rod to a length that just fits within your gap and then un-thread both the coupling nuts so they force themselves against your supporting walls. This is a really shoddy idea that just barely gets a grip when you're desperate.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.


----------

