# Stage Work lights, need a new solution



## llecount (Aug 3, 2010)

Let me start by explaining what we have currently. 

The pictures will show this, but on each side of the stage I've got 4 1500 Watt 240V Quartz Halogen flood lights, as well as T8 fluorescent lights under the air ducts, all run off a contactor.
When working, these lights provide an excellent amount of light to work on the stage. However, one of those quartz halogen fixtures lasts about 3-6 months before they have to be completely replaced. 
The problem we have with them is the sockets for the lamp burn up internally and stop making contact. They are rated for the 1500 Watt lamps, so were not over-loading them by any means. My campus electricians are tired of replacing these, and I'm tired of paying for new fixtures only to have them fail a short time later. 
The electricians have recommended that I install metal halide fixtures instead as they will use less power and put out the same (if not more) light. However, I'm not sold on these as I don't like the delay that comes with them when turned on.. and sometimes the work lights get turned off only to be turned back on a few seconds later, which results in even longer delays. 

My solution that I recommended was this. 
Keep the fluorescents, remove all but 1 of the quartz fixtures per side, and replace the rest with metal halides. This way if light is needed quickly, (ie. emergency) the 1 quartz and the fluorescents can provide that until the MH lamps warm up to full brightness. 

I originally wanted to replace them with a CFL flood equivalent, but haven't found anything suitable on the market (haven't looked for a while though). 
What would you recommend if you were in my shoes? I'm trying to compile ideas so I can do this once and not have to mess with it again. 

Thanks!


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## michaelburgoyne (Aug 3, 2010)

I think your idea to keep the fluorescents and replace most of the 1500w quartz fixtures with metal halide is excellent. I suggest that you also replace the remaining 1500w quartz fixture on each side with a 1000w, 120V fixture. You might choose a single-cell flood light (such as the Altman Q-Lite) that uses the same lamp you already stock for your cyc lights. A fixture with a safety screen rather than a glass shield will allow better heat dissipation and help to prevent the socket failures that you're experiencing now.

Be sure to confirm that the existing quartz fixtures and contactors are not used as the emergency egress lighting for your stage. If these are currently tied to an emergency power source you will need to replace them with a fixture that still provides "instant" illumination.


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## llecount (Aug 3, 2010)

michaelburgoyne said:


> I think your idea to keep the fluorescents and replace most of the 1500w quartz fixtures with metal halide is excellent. I suggest that you also replace the remaining 1500w quartz fixture on each side with a 1000w, 120V fixture. You might choose a single-cell flood light (such as the Altman Q-Lite) that uses the same lamp you already stock for your cyc lights. A fixture with a safety screen rather than a glass shield will allow better heat dissipation and help to prevent the socket failures that you're experiencing now.
> 
> Be sure to confirm that the existing quartz fixtures and contactors are not used as the emergency egress lighting for your stage. If these are currently tied to an emergency power source you will need to replace them with a fixture that still provides "instant" illumination.



They are not part of an egress system at all. There are separate lights around the stage that are on a battery backup system which illuminate if the power goes out. 

Here's something I just thought of.. If I mix the quartz lamps, with the MH lamps, what will the color difference be between the two? Would the MH lamps overpower the lone single quartz lamps that it wouldn't be noticeable?


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## llecount (Aug 3, 2010)

Found this today:
#486321 Round Back Flood Light with 175 Watt Metal Halide bulb, multi-tap ballast(120,208,240,277V)

It would mount the same as our current lights do, and compatible with the high voltage, so it makes installation easy. 
I'm not sure if 175 watt would output the same amount of light as my 1500's do now. I know I certainty don't want to loose any output in this change.

Just looked up the output of a 1500W QH lamp, and it is roughly 33,000 lumens. The output of a 400W MH lamp is around 35-40K Lumens, so I'd need at least a lamp of that size.


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## Studio (Aug 3, 2010)

I don't know if this if practical but at my school's theater we have rows of florescent lights on each of our electrics and the lights are mounted bellow think two pipes, and we have control of each row, and the lights in the wings. That way if we need light behind the upstage traveler during a seen we can do so. They are more energy efficient and work well. (We have control in the booth and on stage). It depends how much you are willing to spend/work on the current work light situation. Also it looks from your picture the lights cast shadows on stage when on, which could be corrected. I looked for a photo but don't have one.


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## llecount (Aug 3, 2010)

Shadows don't concern me, and with all of the lights working, there are very few dark places on stage. Infact, the flourescents were added a few years ago. Before that, there was nothing to light the off stage wings. 
I appreciate the suggestion about the lights on the electrics, but that's an option that I don't think would work here. I can't spare any circuits on my electrics, and our gallery roof is 70ft from the deck, and we don't have a grid. Adding new cable for those lights would be expensive and difficult. Thanks though!


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## llecount (Aug 31, 2010)

Just an update to this thread. 
The campus electricians and I came to an agreement on the solution I listed in my first post. They finished up the install today, and I'm already loving the new light. They installed 3 RAB 400W MH "Floodzilla" lights on each wing, and we retained 1 of the 1500W Quartz Halogen lamps on each side too. 
Pictures to come soon.


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