# Edison to Stage Pin Questions



## Shawncfer (Jun 7, 2010)

Okay, So I just got some free strip lights today. I don't know how good they are, but they work and each lamp is 300w and theres 16 lights all together divided by 4 dimmers, so yeah, I'm pretty happy. 

HOWEVER, I have a couple questions I hope yall can answer for me.

In an Eddison plug, which ones Hot, and which is Neutral? I'm sure the bottom one is ground, but just wanted to be sure.

Second, Each lamp like i said is 300w, with 4 one one dimmer, soI'll only have 1200w on each dimmer. And our dimmers can handle 2400w, so I'm not worried about that. But the plug says its 125v. Im use to working with 120v, so is this going to be a problem? It says it on the eddison plug itself, not the lamo, and I don't have a manual to go along with the lights. I have ETC Sensor racks btw...

Third, I'm not planning on doing this, but just because I'm curious. The light has 4 male adapters, obviously to plug in. Which I'm going to convert to stage pin. It also has 4 female outputs so I can connect all 4 dimmers to another strip light:


Which since each dimmer will be holding 1200w off each light, if I add another strip it'll be 2400, and thats a little to close so I don't want to do it. But like I said, just because I'm curious, If I change the male end to stage pin, and If i wanted to connect it to another strip light that was using eddison, do I have to change the femal and male of the other one to stage pin or could they remain eddison?

EDIT:
Forgot to mention, the plug says 125v, but each bulb says 120v


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## MarshallPope (Jun 7, 2010)

They will still draw 120v (ish, depending on your service), the plug is just rated for 125. As for your theoretical question, that would be just fine. The electricity is the same regardless of the arrangement of the little bits of metal that conduct is.


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## Les (Jun 7, 2010)

The plug says 125v because that's what it is rated for. If the dimmers output 120v then that's what you're gonna get - 120v. The plugs won't magically suck 125v out of your system, not that the 5v difference is significant to begin with. 


Re hot and neutral. Black or copper is hot. White or silver is neutral. Green or bare is ground.

In's & Out's. Yes, the female edison pigtails at the end are for daisy chaining strips, and as you guessed, that would double your current draw if you connected another identical strip. You can lamp them down if you want. You can switch them over to stage pin, twistlock or keep them edison, just so long as you keep them female. <---that part's important!

You might check out this thread if you're in the mood for some confusion: http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/lighting/20096-stage-pin-edison-dimmer-non-dim-plausible.html

No offense, but I'm surprised by how many people use these connectors on a regular basis, yet don't know the fundamentals behind them! I guess we all gotta start somewhere. I started young, so I'm a little insensitive I guess  .


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## dcollins (Jun 7, 2010)

Shawncfer said:


> Okay, So I just got some free strip lights today. I don't know how good they are, but they work and each lamp is 300w and theres 16 lights all together divided by 4 dimmers, so yeah, I'm pretty happy.
> 
> HOWEVER, I have a couple questions I hope yall can answer for me.
> 
> In an Eddison plug, which ones Hot, and which is Neutral? I'm sure the bottom one is ground, but just wanted to be sure.


The larger flat pin or opening, or the one shaped like a T, is the neutral. When looking at a female with ground on the bottom, the neutral is on the left. When looking at a male with ground on the bottom, the neutral is on the right. When you open them up, one contact should be brass (this is hot), one should be silver (this is neutral), the the greenish one is obviously the neutral.


> Second, Each lamp like i said is 300w, with 4 one one dimmer, soI'll only have 1200w on each dimmer. And our dimmers can handle 2400w, so I'm not worried about that. But the plug says its 125v. Im use to working with 120v, so is this going to be a problem? It says it on the eddison plug itself, not the lamo, and I don't have a manual to go along with the lights. I have ETC Sensor racks btw...


The plug is /rated/ for 125V. That's OK if your power is 120V and your lamps are 120V (which they are).


> Third, I'm not planning on doing this, but just because I'm curious. The light has 4 male adapters, obviously to plug in. Which I'm going to convert to stage pin. It also has 4 female outputs so I can connect all 4 dimmers to another strip light:
> 
> Which since each dimmer will be holding 1200w off each light, if I add another strip it'll be 2400, and thats a little to close so I don't want to do it. But like I said, just because I'm curious, If I change the male end to stage pin, and If i wanted to connect it to another strip light that was using eddison, do I have to change the femal and male of the other one to stage pin or could they remain eddison?


Those are NEMA 5-15 female ends. They are rated for 15A at 125V. They can not handle 20A, and using them to do is against code. That's equal to 1800W = OK, 2400W = Not OK. You would need to swap out at least the male ends of the first striplight to be able to daisy chain, and I think you would also need to swap out the other set of ends - but I'm not sure about those rules. I would definitely never put exactly 2400W on one dimmer and expect it not to trip.

Oh, and it's Edison, one d.


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## MarcusL (Jun 7, 2010)

Your concern about "pushing it too close" is somewhat irrelevant. ETC Sensor units are rated to run at capacity (2400W). You won't experience a breaker flip as long as you stay within (inclusive) the 0-2400W range.


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## erosing (Jun 7, 2010)

Les said:


> No offense, but I'm surprised by how many people use these connectors on a regular basis, yet don't know the fundamentals behind them! I guess we all gotta start somewhere. I started young, so I'm a little insensitive I guess  .



Les, I agree with you.

What I don't understand is why in college (since the OP is listed as undergrad), you would be taught how a stage pin connection works and apparently some electrical theory, but not some basic code and the configurations of common plugs. Don't get me wrong, I'm glad the OP asked, but I'm a little disappointed in his teachers.


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## Shawncfer (Jun 7, 2010)

dcollins said:


> Those are NEMA 5-15 female ends. They are rated for 15A at 125V. They can not handle 20A, and using them to do is against code. That's equal to 1800W = OK, 2400W = Not OK.



Okay so I get that concept. Watts = Amps * Volts.... So I'm a little confused. Since my dimmer puts out 20 Amps, but the plug is only rated for 15 Amps, would that be a problem if I didn't exceed 1800watts? (Which I dont plan on). Because my dimmer puts out 120v and the plug is rated for 125v. And once again, this is theoretically speaking. I plan on changing my plugs. I'm just here to learn as much as I can.

And its the plugs that are rated for 15amps right? So if I change it to a stage pin that can handle 120v and 20amps then i'll be good? Because all 4 lights are 1200w combined, and 120v... technically I only need 10 amps. But my stage pin plug can handle 20 amps so I'm good right?

And did I do my math right? 4lights at 300w each make 1200w, but each lamp says 120v. But I also know (from reading "Electricity for the Entertainment Electrician"...Which im reading right now) that Volts isnt current, it's what pushes the current. So does each lamp need 120v equaling 480v? Or is it just 120v overall?


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## BrockTucker (Jun 7, 2010)

Shawncfer said:


> Okay so I get that concept. Watts = Amps * Volts.... So I'm a little confused. Since my dimmer puts out 20 Amps, but the plug is only rated for 15 Amps, would that be a problem if I didn't exceed 1800watts? (Which I dont plan on). Because my dimmer puts out 120v and the plug is rated for 125v. And once again, this is theoretically speaking. I plan on changing my plugs. I'm just here to learn as much as I can.



Voltage is determined by the supply. Your dimmer is supplying the circuit with 120v, so that is what everything down the line will recieve. (ignoring drop-off which you don't need to worry about with what your doing)

Wattage is determined by the load. In this case the lamps, which total up to 1200w, so your wattage will be 1200w.

Amperage is a product of Voltage and Wattage. Since you have 1200w at 120v you are pulling 10A. 

Your dimmer does not "put out 20A" it has a capacity of 20A. This means you can put a load of up to 20A on it without tripping the breaker. The plug needs to be rated for the load it is connected to. A 10A load is just fine on a 15A plug. However if you daisy chain another 10A load you'll have 20A on that plug, which will cause melting and fire.




Shawncfer said:


> And its the plugs that are rated for 15amps right? So if I change it to a stage pin that can handle 120v and 20amps then i'll be good? Because all 4 lights are 1200w combined, and 120v... technically I only need 10 amps. But my stage pin plug can handle 20 amps so I'm good right?



Correct, however before daisy chaining you have to make sure the wiring is rated for the Amperage you're going to be pulling through it. 14 gauge wire is fine for 15A but you need 12 gauge for 20A.


Shawncfer said:


> And did I do my math right? 4lights at 300w each make 1200w, but each lamp says 120v. But I also know (from reading "Electricity for the Entertainment Electrician"...Which im reading right now) that Volts isnt current, it's what pushes the current. So does each lamp need 120v equaling 480v? Or is it just 120v overall?



Your math is correct, 1200w. Without going into AC/DC circuits and Parallel vs Series wiring... in this situation and most if not all you'll encounter as a stage electrician, wattage and amperage add, voltage remains constant.


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## Shawncfer (Jun 7, 2010)

Arez said:


> Les, I agree with you.
> 
> What I don't understand is why in college (since the OP is listed as undergrad), you would be taught how a stage pin connection works and apparently some electrical theory, but not some basic code and the configurations of common plugs. Don't get me wrong, I'm glad the OP asked, but I'm a little disappointed in his teachers.



This is my first year of college. Im just starting. I was only in tech theatre my junior and senior year because I found it interesting. Before that I worked at a venue and a theatre as the person who just connected stuff. Or ran the board on ocassion. And even then, my tech teacher junior and senior year was horrible. Never taught me anything. In fact he was just fired because of the fact that he knew very little on the topic. He lied on his resume to get the job. He was just a theatre director who had expereince using the Express. Everything I know so far (which isn't much, don't get me wrong) Ive learned from reading books, reading manuals, and asking questions on here. And like I said, I'm not claiming to be an expert in the subject, but I think I've learned a pretty good amount for never actually being taught. I'm just new the whole electricity thing. Something I've never used. It was always plug this light in and patch it and focus it and whatever else. I never needed to change a stage pin to an eddison before. I know about how to do it. But have never actually done it. And since I'm going to tomorrow, I thought it would be nice to ask before I set something on fire..


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## Shawncfer (Jun 7, 2010)

BrockTucker said:


> Correct, however before daisy chaining you have to make sure the wiring is rated for the Amperage you're going to be pulling through it. 14 gauge wire is fine for 15A but you need 12 gauge for 20A.



How do I check the guage? And if I need to chane it, To i just change the cable from the plug to the light? And from the light to the next plug? Or do I need to change wire inbetween each of the 4 lamps in the lights as well?


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## Les (Jun 7, 2010)

Shawncfer said:


> How do I check the guage? And if I need to chane it, To i just change the cable from the plug to the light? And from the light to the next plug? Or do I need to change wire inbetween each of the 4 lamps in the lights as well?



Well, you would have to change ALL the wire. But, the fixture is designed with daisy chaining in mind, so you can most likely connect as many fixtures as your dimmers (or connectors) will handle. Altman lists a "per circuit" maximum wattage, which probably accounts for all devices connected to that circuit. I believe that number is 2400w but don't quote me on that. Give me a sec and I'll try to cite you a source.

Ok, here it is (PDF Warning):
http://www.stagespot.com/downloads/SP_R40.pdf

The spec sheet states 2400w max per circuit. I would assume this includes all downstream fixtures since they all pass-thru the first fixture in the chain. The wiring in the R40 strip is likely 12 gauge.


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## Shawncfer (Jun 7, 2010)

Okay, So I just made this up in Paint right now so forgive me if they look like crap, But I just wanted to double check..

[EDIT by Mod: Incorrect drawing of Male Edison plug has been deleted.]


The Nema one is like looking at the front of the the male end facing towards you..


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## Derrick (Jun 7, 2010)

Close, in your nema 5-15 drawing the "HOT" should be the SMALLER of the two blades.

Remember, one hand in the pocket!

oh, to be clear. don't change the labeling, you have it labeled correctly. Swap the blade sizes, smaller = HOT. Larger = neutral


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## BrockTucker (Jun 7, 2010)

You have the neutral and hot switched on the Edison connector, otherwise this is correct.

Les the connectors on these fixtures are 15 amp and would overload if just 2 of them were connected together so I would definately not assume anything about the gauge of the wire inside. Its possible it's only designed to be daisy chained if it is lamed down to 225w or less.

edit: Please have someone qualified check any work you do on these fixtures, or even better be there to help you while you do it.


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## erosing (Jun 7, 2010)

Shawncfer said:


> This is my first year of college. Im just starting. I was only in tech theatre my junior and senior year because I found it interesting. Before that I worked at a venue and a theatre as the person who just connected stuff. Or ran the board on ocassion. And even then, my tech teacher junior and senior year was horrible. Never taught me anything. In fact he was just fired because of the fact that he knew very little on the topic. He lied on his resume to get the job. He was just a theatre director who had expereince using the Express. Everything I know so far (which isn't much, don't get me wrong) Ive learned from reading books, reading manuals, and asking questions on here. And like I said, I'm not claiming to be an expert in the subject, but I think I've learned a pretty good amount for never actually being taught. I'm just new the whole electricity thing. Something I've never used. It was always plug this light in and patch it and focus it and whatever else. I never needed to change a stage pin to an eddison before. I know about how to do it. But have never actually done it. And since I'm going to tomorrow, I thought it would be nice to ask before I set something on fire..



That explains it better, and I really didn't mean any offense towards you. I'm glad that you were not discouraged by your previous teacher. It's always good to ask questions. As somebody will soon say, if someone has not already, if you can find someone experienced to walk you through this the first time or two, or to check your work that would be beneficial.


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## Shawncfer (Jun 7, 2010)

Like this??


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## Derrick (Jun 7, 2010)

yep, you got it!


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## Shawncfer (Jun 7, 2010)

Derrick said:


> yep, you got it!



Just cuz im curious. Someone told me that if I use a dmm and use one probe in hot and one in neutral I'll get 120v. And I know thats true. They Also told me that Ground to nuetral = 0 and Hot to ground = 120.... is that true?


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## Derrick (Jun 7, 2010)

yes, that is true. and completely normal.


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## ship (Jun 7, 2010)

Shawncfer said:


> Okay, So I just got some free strip lights today. I don't know how good they are, but they work and each lamp is 300w and theres 16 lights all together divided by 4 dimmers, so yeah, I'm pretty happy.
> 
> HOWEVER, I have a couple questions I hope yall can answer for me.
> 
> ...



As a norm, anything strip or cyc light with feedthrough is 12ga (20a) in wiring. The fact that it has commercial grade Edison connectors on it by way of its end user has nothing to do with the internal wiring though the internal wiring and especially the sockets for the lamps would also be good to professionally inspect. (Past debate about me having learned I thought a 5-15 commercial grade receptacle - given it’s the same as a 5-20 Edison was ok, for theater temporary use. Lost that debate I believe in not finding the article, still though that thought was stuck in my head from somewhere and perhaps with others.) Beyond that the Edison plug is I do know ok by code to use. Not the best choice but is ok to use. This not persay code if feeding another instrument but they are commercial grade plugs/receptacles and fine if properly installed. (Another detail to check as often not done correctly by way of wire strip length, tension or strain relief.)

A bit concerned about your asking about hot/neutral by way of training. (Good and smart to ask of course,) which is which by way of color code or how to detect either wire concerns me given your past reading of books and other training. This not mostly due to not yet realizing in an immediate sense to learn what you read but in not having the training in proper tension on the terminals and strain relief on the plugs in making it immediate to you that what you read or re-read should have clicked in. This than in training you already know that part. It concerns me in your training - on site beyond book that should also have told you the answer to this question, beyond that on-site reinforcement and further personal training beyond the book as very important. 

Gauge of the wire stripper in closest fitting to the stripped wire will tell you what size of wire you have. Beyond that, get supervision and now that this is immediate to you re-read the books read in they should tell you the rest such as center contact is the hot and shell of the screw base is always the neutral.

Hoping this helps in again hitting the books now that it’s an immediate question to re-learn what you read, and that you get supervision and training on what has not been so far sufficiently further trained. Very smart to ask and while you read the books, now they should become more immediate to your situation in learning more from a re-read. Hope it helps in having done the best possible thing you could - asking before you do.

Also side note..., loose the metallic watch while working, while it might not shock you at times it just could.


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## ship (Jun 7, 2010)

Derrick said:


> yes, that is true. and completely normal.



Yes but be sure you are conducting to ground only on the probe and not a better path of least resistance to the ground in testing this. Better path... watch your multi-meter if you do it wrong and are a less resistance path to ground in the meter than thru you in being a better path.

Ground tests are normally fine and safe but you do want to just for a moment consider your connection to that grounding path while doing so. After that, normally fine to do, but just think for a moment about your testing this current situation. What you are holding, sitting in etc, this realizing that hopefully the fuse in the multi-meter might play a role. 

Don't know but a thought that might apply in what I think about and consider before I test hot to ground each time.


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## Les (Jun 7, 2010)

BrockTucker said:


> Les the connectors on these fixtures are 15 amp and would overload if just 2 of them were connected together so I would definately not assume anything about the gauge of the wire inside. Its possible it's only designed to be daisy chained if it is lamed down to 225w or less.



Assume nothin -- I've taken dozens of these fixtures apart. I know what should be in there. I used the term 'likely' because what _should_ be in there isn't always what _is_ in there. Who knows what the end user could have done in the past. I try to base my assessments on the state the fixture was in when it left the factory and what is found in its spec sheet.


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## Shawncfer (Jun 8, 2010)

ship said:


> This not mostly due to not yet realizing in an immediate sense to learn what you read but in not having the training in proper tension on the terminals and strain relief on the plugs in making it immediate to you that what you read or re-read should have clicked in. This than in training you already know that part.
> 
> Also side note..., loose the metallic watch while working, while it might not shock you at times it just could.



First, could you explain to me what you mean by proper tension? and strain relief? I know this reinforces your point. And I'm working with a real professional while doing this tomorrow and I'll ask him the same thing. Like I said, it's a little different now that I'm in college and I have a real tech teacher.

Second, haha I usually don't wear a watch when I'm working. I just wear it when I'm going out with some friends. And thats what I was doing tonight. However the guy who was giving away the lights called me and asked me if I wanted them and I had to pick them up today so I made a quick stop and thats why I have the watch on. I know you probably don't care to hear this story, but jsut though I'd let you know. Thanks for the heads up though!


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## derekleffew (Jun 8, 2010)

Shawncfer said:


> ... and I don't have a manual to go along with the lights. ...


Webpage. Link to downloadable documents page from Altman's site.

Congratulations on getting $655 MSRP fixtures for free.

It must be R40 season or something.:neutral: See also the recent threads:
Info on a Colortran Border Light
Hang Borderlights At An Angle


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## Shawncfer (Jun 8, 2010)

derekleffew said:


> Link to downloadable documents page[/URL] from Altman's site.



How do you know its Altman?

It doesn't say a brand name anywhere, and the R40 has 8 lights right? Mine has 16 :-S

And also. So I was changing the Edisons to stage pins today, under the supervision of my boss, who's the head tech director.

Now after I took the cables off the edisons, I had to strip the wire a little bit because there wasnt enough wire exposed to attach to the stage pin. But only about a centimeter more if even that. So I stripped them back, but I kept noticing I was having trouble with the ground wire; as far as stripping it I mean. And everytime I kept trying to do it, I kept pullin off one or two of the wires that are in there. Now the TD said it was okay as long as i didn't pull off more than 25% of the wires, which I didn't. But for some reason that just sounds weird to mean, out of all the wires that are wrapped up in there and I can pull off maybe a couple of them and be fine. Is that true?

Edit:
BTW - I'm not asking if its normal to cut the wires while stripping, because I progressivly got better at it and I wasn't cutting them by my third or fourth time. I'm just worried if its okay for them to cut a little bit and still use them?


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## xander (Jun 8, 2010)

Cutting one or two is fine. I'm not so sure I'd go as high as 25%....


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## DuckJordan (Jun 8, 2010)

yes it is, since they are not single strands but rather a bunch of small strands making it not only more flexible but also less likely to fail. So while its not great to do its certainly acceptable and while in the begining while you mentioned you got better, you will cut some of the strands. So it just takes practice.


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## BrockTucker (Jun 8, 2010)

I did a quick search to find if there is an acceptable percentage of wire cut in the NEC and could not find one. Does anyone know if there is a real rule on this?


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## derekleffew (Jun 8, 2010)

Shawncfer said:


> How do you know its Altman?
> 
> It doesn't say a brand name anywhere, and the R40 has 8 lights right? Mine has 16 :-S ...


Educated guess, based on 30+ years of experience. I'd bet >80% of R40 Strips ever made still in use are Altman. Other manufacturers are L&E, Times Square, and were Century, Capital. Don't know that I've ever seen a Kliegl R40, but they probably made one. Hub and Major primarily made striplights using A- or PS- lamps. Also, if it doesn't have a name, it's likely Altman, as other manufacturers used to sell Altman gear as their own. (Even ETC at one time!)

Since the R40 has lamps on 6" centers, 
a 6' is a 12-light, 3 or 4 circuit
a 7.5' is a 15-light, 3 circuit
a 8' is a 16-light, 4 circuit.


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## xander (Jun 8, 2010)

Also, just throwing this out there because these are newly acquired, they don't actually make 300w R40 lamps anymore. So, start picking your replacement and stockpiling.


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## derekleffew (Jun 9, 2010)

I didn't know that, xander. But, depending on application, and IF I could afford them, I might use 250PAR38/SP lamps. Longer life and more lumens per watt, but a significantly higher upfront cost.

The attached chart, excerpted from the cut sheet referenced above, shows most, but not all, of the lamps available as of 2003. One missing type is the 300BR/FL and its siblings. Or have those been discontinued as well? These free fixtures could end up costing a small fortune!
http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/members/xander.html


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## dramatech (Jun 9, 2010)

Derek, 
You can add one more to your list of R40 strip lights. I have 12 Elecro Control units, six feet with 12 lamps and 4 circuits. They are very much in use as we speak. They were purchased in 1976 and had all asbestos wiring. I just recently rewired them with teflon insulated, nickel plated copper. 
I considered that they might actually be Altmans, relabeled as EC, but they have the distinctive EC knobs on the end, and the frame size for the roundels is not the same as any other striplights that I have found information for. Also, EC wasn't much into relabeling others products.
We no longer use the roundels, but have figured a way to put gels into the roundel frames.
We have considered replacing them several times, but replacement costs are simply to expensive, when we have a working system.
I figure by the time congress outlaws, and inforces the use of R40 type lamps, that LED units will have become affordable, and when it becomes a law, it is always easier to raise money.


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## dramatech (Jun 9, 2010)

dramatech said:


> Derek,
> You can add one more to your list of R40 strip lights. I have 12 Elecro Control units, six feet with 12 lamps and 4 circuits. They are very much in use as we speak. They were purchased in 1976 and had all asbestos wiring. I just recently rewired them with teflon insulated, nickel plated copper.
> I considered that they might actually be Altmans, relabeled as EC, but they have the distinctive EC knobs on the end, and the frame size for the roundels is not the same as any other striplights that I have found information for. Also, EC wasn't much into relabeling others products.
> We no longer use the roundels, but have figured a way to put gels into the roundel frames.
> ...



oops!! mispelled Electro Control and the word is Enforce not inforce. I thought that I had better correct it before our English professor came down on me. (I finally passed Freshman English my senior year in college, All of the grades in my major and minor, were "A"s)


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## xander (Jun 9, 2010)

As of last time I had to purchase R40 lamps (probably about 18 months ago) Production Advantage informed me they had stopped manufacturing the 300w, 150w, and a few more. I don't remember exactly which were still being made, so call your supplier before you take my word for it. All I know is every time I lost one lamp, I had to start buying PAR38 lamps in batches of 4 to replace every lamp in the circuit at the same time. Really annoying. And not cheap.

-Tim


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## MarshallPope (Jun 9, 2010)

Slightly off topic, but what is the correct way to pronounce roundel? Is it roun-duhl or roun-dehl


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## xander (Jun 9, 2010)

MarshallPope said:


> Slightly off topic, but what is the correct way to pronounce roundel? Is it roun-duhl or roun-dehl



I've always said "del" as in the computer manufacturer, but I have no hard evidence that is correct.


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## derekleffew (Jun 9, 2010)

Regardless of spelling, I've always heard it pronounced as Ron (as in Ron "tater salad" White) Dell (computer mfg.) Emphasis on the second syllable. I always think of 1960s girl singing groups.

I don't think I've ever heard anyone say Round Dell or Roun' Dell.


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## Les (Jun 9, 2010)

MarshallPope said:


> Slightly off topic, but what is the correct way to pronounce roundel? Is it roun-duhl or roun-dehl



I've heard people say ron-del and roun-dehl. The guy at Norcostco in Dallas calls them round-dehls.


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## erosing (Jun 9, 2010)

I like to go with "roundell," and I say it faster with the intent that people won't ask me why I say it differently than them, or their buddy, because they couldn't quite hear the specific pronunciation I used. 

If you can't tell, I've run into this more then once. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bishopthomas (Jun 9, 2010)

Arez said:


> If you can't tell, I've run into this more *then* once.



Do you also pronounce the word in bold as "thun" so no one can tell if you're saying "then" when you should be saying "than?"


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## erosing (Jun 10, 2010)

bishopthomas said:


> Do you also pronounce the word in bold as "thun" so no one can tell if you're saying "then" when you should be saying "than?"



On occasion, yes, I do slur them to a combination, generally when I've had a bit too much, or I'm just too tired to care about it. 

I also spelled because incorrectly, too bad you didn't notice that as well, eh?  I'll try not to type so quickly next time.


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## mstaylor (Jun 10, 2010)

Ron Dell is how I have always heard it pronounced.


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