# Door flats versus doors "units"...



## JLNorthGA (Jun 4, 2012)

I've usually built door flats. I either put a door casing and molding on a door flat or I make a "door casing" out of 2 x 4 and mortise in the hinges. Either way, the entire flat holds the door and the constituent parts. If I put in a door casing, I usually try to make it so the door casing can slide back and forth within the flat - so both sides can be used.

I was reading a book on stock scenery construction. It sort of said - build the door casing/molding, door, etc. as a unit. Place other flats to make it up to height and width. As an example, if you have a 30" door, "stiffen" it up with 2 x 4s, etc., add the molding on the sides - the door width is now 34+". You have a door unit that is 7' high or so and 34 1/2" W. You've got plenty of wood to anchor the other flats. Add a 1/8" steel plate on the bottom and the door isn't going to shift or move. You can add on a 3' tall piece that is the right width and you've got something that is 10' tall. Add a 1' flat on a side and you've got a flat that is ~4' W with the door on one side. Add a couple of smaller flats (on the order of 6-7" on each side) and you've got a door flat with the door in the center.

Does the building a door "unit" sound reasonable? Any other suggestions?


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## gafftaper (Jun 4, 2012)

I buy a prehung door (or build my own casing). Then I build a 4x8 or 4x10 Broadway flat with a cut out for the door and frame. Think of it as an upside down "u" with square corners. Build the wall of flats and then slide in the door frame. Screw the door frame into the flat and floor. Make sure the flat is well braced with jacks or another wall section at a 90 degree angle. When you take it apart, attach a section of 1x2 to the bottom of the door casing, this will protect the frame during storage. 

Another great reason to build this way is you can use this door flat as an archway without the door.


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## chausman (Jun 4, 2012)

We put our doors in between two different flats, and then use plywood to fill the "gap" between the two flats, with use tip jacks at an angle, as well as another flat behind for masking.


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## dancarden (Jun 5, 2012)

build the doors the way it says in the book. if you only have jacks available to support the set you should definately use a metal strip to stop the sides kicking out. if you are able to fix into the stage then you wont need the metal. return flats behind the door are a great way of suring the set up so it doesnt wobble when the door is shut/slammed.


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## kicknargel (Jun 5, 2012)

Gafftaper, did you actually mean broadway flats, or hollywood?

Anyway, I do it similar to that. I use store-bought or shop-built prehung doors and build hollywood flats with opening 1/2" or so larger than the casing. I install the door pretty much like you would in a home, using shims between the casing and flat opening to get the door into true/square and swinging nicely, then trim over the casing/gap. I'd guess the book method is more appropriate for Broadway (1x on flat, muslin covered) flats that aren't providing much structure, so the door itself needs to be stiff and strong. The downside is you're stuck with one type of trim for ever on that door.


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## derekleffew (Jun 5, 2012)

JLNorthGA said:


> ...Add a 1/8" steel plate on the bottom and the door isn't going to shift or move. ...




dancarden said:


> ... if you only have jacks available to support the set you should definately use a metal strip to stop the sides kicking out. if you are able to fix into the stage then you wont need the metal. ...


Also known as sill iron.

I seem to recall an "independent door unit" method where the casing, jamb, and shutter fit into a slightly over-sized opening in the flat, Broadway, and is held in place by angled strap hinges that dig into the interior stiles of the flat. This would be used for a unit that must be struck.


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## JChenault (Jun 5, 2012)

Well - back when I used to build scenery and had to do doors.

We used the 'Build a stand alone door unit with attached casing and facing.' and the 'angled strap hinges to hold it in'. IE the independent door method. ( I learned this method at a shop that did rotating rep so everything had to fold up to the greatest extent possible )

We would build a broadway style flat with a simple arch opening in it and put a sill iron at the bottom of the door opening. The door unit would fit inside of the flat and the facing would cover the gap.

IMHO the reveal and casing of a door for the stage should be wider than the typical home depot pre hung door. Typically we used at least 1x6 for the reveal. At the bottom of the door frame we would do a wooden sill ( routing out a space for the sill iron to go under the wooden sill). This way we had a number of doors that could easily be moved around much more easily than trying to move a large flat with attached doors.

We never used a home depot pre-hung door - we rarely used a pre-built door. We could build a more sturdy frame than the pre-hung door. We might purchase a pre-made door if both sides needed to be seen, but if not it was always easier and more sturdy to build our own. If the door opens off stage you simply mount your back flap hinges to the back of the door, and to the 1x6 reveal.


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## JLNorthGA (Jun 5, 2012)

Our local surplus place often "donates" doors in casings for less than $50 for a reasonable 6 panel door. That's why I sometimes use pre-hung doors.


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## kicknargel (Jun 6, 2012)

For sure a big box pre-hung is not going to last through very many installations. But, if the casing blows out, we just rebuild it.


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## peacefulone61 (Jun 7, 2012)

We use units. The previous TD built a bunch of different door units to a standard size and I have been rebuilding the flats that accept them. It does allow us to change a look of a stock set which makes teaching students about choices a lot easier.


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## Allen (Mar 1, 2013)

Hi everyone,

I am a novice in this field and I need help finding a good supplier for my hinges. I'm interested in buying hinges from here Sierra Pacific Industrial Hardware Supplier but they don't sell to individuals, it's a $150 minimum order. I need these models: Take-Apart Hinge/ Lift-Off Hinge and Stainless Steel Strap Hinges. 
Could anyone recommend me a good source? Any help will be welcome!

Thanks a lot,
Allen


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## derekleffew (Mar 1, 2013)

Hey Allen. When you (or your company) were previously banned for spamming our forum here, your posts were simply deleted or links removed. If you persist, we'll leave the links, along with a nice, informative message about how bushingsspot.com employs people who spam internet forums. Would you enjoy the fruits of that "Google-juice"?

The users of this forum are already aware of where and how to buy hinges for theatrical applications. Thanks for playing.


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## Tex (Mar 2, 2013)

We use pre-hung doors because they're fast, cheap and fairly simple to make square and plumb. We use them much like Chase does, a flat on either side and a plug to make the arch.


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