# Is SOOW 12/3 Type Cable acceptable for stage use?



## ariggs (Oct 25, 2009)

Hey guys,
I just got finished browsing over the NEC's section on Portable Cords and noticed that Cord Types S, SO, and SOO were allowable for stage use but no mention of SOOW.

Anyone know if it is or isn't permissable for use in theatre stages? I do a lot of location film work so the 'W' Rating for Wet conditions is a plus for me but I'm starting to do more studio work so was just curious as their is some cross polination of fields between Film and Stage/Theatre.

Thanks in advance,
-Riggs


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## icewolf08 (Oct 25, 2009)

Yes, it is acceptable for theatre use, in fact it is recommended.


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## Footer (Oct 25, 2009)

As long as there is no J in the name, all of the above are good to go. SOOW is the standard that most places use if they can.


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## ariggs (Oct 25, 2009)

Thanks for the reply guys. That helps alot. After checking Ship's breakdown on Cable I didn't see mention of the 'W' so figured I ask.

-Riggs


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## rwhealey (Oct 25, 2009)

Now, in a slightly unrelated question, what do I want for speaker cable?


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## gabe (Oct 25, 2009)

Footer said:


> As long as there is no J in the name, all of the above are good to go. SOOW is the standard that most places use if they can.



Is it really unacceptable to use 12/3 SJO in theater? We use it occasionally for things such as runs on stage that have to be low profile.


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## derekleffew (Oct 25, 2009)

rwhealey said:


> Now, in a slightly unrelated question, what do I want for speaker cable?


14/12/10 AWG in 2/4/6/8 conductor, depending on power, length, and application. Preference of rubber or plastic jacket determined by amount of expected abuse.


gabe said:


> Is it really unacceptable to use 12/3 SJO in theater? We use it occasionally for things such as runs on stage that have to be low profile.


See http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/lighting/12527-sjo-cable-theater.html.


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## mrb (Oct 26, 2009)

Unacceptable to use SJO for lighting/power cable except for adapters and breakouts limited to 6ft in length. SOOW (the W just means water resistant) is whats required. You can also use STOW but its not a great idea since its pvc and will melt if it touches an insturment. 

For speaker cable, we typically use 12/4 SJOW for NL4 cable...


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## ship (Oct 26, 2009)

Quick concept, understanding what each letter means is the most important concept in any coding. Is type S' any beter or worse than type SO, SOW or SOOW cable is a part of the code you don't yet understand which needs to be. This much less SJ, or SE types.

What does the second "O" mean and how does it effect your situation? 

On the other hand in your concern I can understand in not yet understanding a worry about if this cable has a few more things its resistant to, if it meets the minimum requirements of what the NEC has. Learning experience and nothing like being the guy on site in needing to know this stuff better for learning stuff you will never forget.

Good to ask, well now known by you now in mastering this part of your craft. And no question is ever stupid to ask if you don't thoroughly understand and am ready to learn.


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## mrb (Oct 26, 2009)

ship said:


> Quick concept, understanding what each letter means is the most important concept in any coding. Is type S' any beter or worse than type SO, SOW or SOOW cable is a part of the code you don't yet understand which needs to be. This much less SJ, or SE types.
> 
> What does the second "O" mean and how does it effect your situation?
> 
> ...



S = service, extra hard usage
first O = oil resistant (outer jacket)
second O = oil resistant (conductor insulation)
W = water resistant

If there is a J in there, its Junior cord which is hard usage, not extra hard usage.
T = thermoplastic (PVC)
E = thermoplastic elastomer (fake rubber)


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## ariggs (Oct 26, 2009)

On the Film side of things I've always used the SO and it's held up well. I just got access to some great pricing on SOOW which I know is allowed for studio use for motion picture purposes (the additional oil resistance and use in Wet conditions is a plus for location work). 

Ship, I understand my cable types, gauges with their equivalant amperage and line loss, and connectors (I am unfamiliar with DC systems though). I was just trying to be polite (not show ignorance) with the first post when I didn't include the break downs of the cable type. 

The only thing I was unsure of was if that specific cable was or was not allowed in a theatre environment because there is no mention of both SOW and SOOW when the NEC is mentioning acceptable cords for stage use. 

Specifically, I was just unsure if the addition of the 'Wet conditions' rating for some reason had a negative effect for its stage use making it noncompliant with safety code. Icewolf and footer helped clarify that it is still permissible to use SOOW despite it not being specifically mentioned.

mrb, thank you for elaborating on the meanings for the additional readers. Another great, quick resource on this forum.

Best regards,
-Riggs


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## mrb (Oct 26, 2009)

ariggs said:


> On the Film side of things I've always used the SO and it's held up well. I just got access to some great pricing on SOOW which I know is allowed for studio use for motion picture purposes (the additional oil resistance and use in Wet conditions is a plus for location work).
> 
> Ship, I understand my cable types, gauges with their equivalant amperage and line loss, and connectors (I am unfamiliar with DC systems though). I was just trying to be polite (not show ignorance) with the first post when I didn't include the break downs of the cable type.
> 
> ...



the nec will never specify a cable type by name -only a category or class. They wont say SO type, they say extra hard usage. SO (+SOW,SOOW) is one type of cable that is listed as extra hard usage.

In fact, it has been a long time since i have even seen anyone make SO that isnt SOOW.


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## cdub260 (Oct 26, 2009)

I actually have quite a bit of S cable in my inventory, which I believe has not been manufactured in the last 20 years, having been supplanted by SO cable some time ago. But as with the rest of my equipment, it gets an annual inspection and test. I actually end up throwing out more of my newer SO and SOOW than I do S, usually due to cracked and brittle insulation.


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## tjrobb (Oct 26, 2009)

Another thing, SEO... cable is also allowed. Be aware that the E is "elastomer" which to simplify it means it melts if you get it too warm. Tradeoff is less weight and better flexibility.


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## ship (Oct 28, 2009)

ariggs said:


> Ship, I understand my cable types, gauges with their equivalant amperage and line loss, and connectors (I am unfamiliar with DC systems though). I was just trying to be polite (not show ignorance) with the first post when I didn't include the break downs of the cable type.
> 
> 
> -Riggs



My apologies in making it seem negative or ignorant of for response, instead it was meant as if home owner "you can do this" type of explination perhaps not as well coveyed as hoped. This and a hope that it would inspire for more reading on the fairly simple principles of wire ratings to once the base concept is understood not be intimidated by it and properly use it.


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## ship (Oct 28, 2009)

tjrobb said:


> Another thing, SEO... cable is also allowed. Be aware that the E is "elastomer" which to simplify it means it melts if you get it too warm. Tradeoff is less weight and better flexibility.



I avoid where possible SE cable for the above reasons. Many instances in play testing in the past of by accident such a cable touching a fixture and melting away in a dangerous way. While both rubberized and plastic cable are rated for the same temperature, the rubberized cable will retain its shape in only burning in the area of contact which in a round shape won't be much surface contact. You would mostly see this area of contact as a localized area of dry rot or charring but with the inner conductors - unless perhaps hit with rain, still do retain the seperation of the conductors from the hot material - this even if dialectric strength compromized. A "elastomer" or in general any thermal plastic cable when it touches something hot melts and allows gravity to feed the melting until the conductors touch the can as it were in shorting. I tend to avoid plastic cable for that reason. 

This reason no matter how much cheaper or the toughting of the benefits of it some supplier constantly has for it and they do attempt to push it. Of rubberized type S' cable on the other hand also a warning about Euro compliant type of even type say SOOW cable especially in the 8/5 size. Euro compliant cable normally has the outer jacket applied over it instead of cable fed thru the outer jacket with jute and other fillers to make it round. Cheaper and easier to make but also more prone to defect in cable twist. On a normal US type of S' cable, the inner conductors are pulled somehow thru the outer jacket without use of talcam powder either which is a sign of a Euro cable even if pulled. Twisted cable braids with fillers at times don't twist properly in a lot, or on the spool at times get crushed. Easy enough to see and cut such a mistake out. Applied as per the normal Euro type of cable be it high temperature or type S cable is also twisted but without fillers and at times even more frequent seems to have mistakes in twist or application of the outer jacket over them. In simple- its very common that the outer jacket of a say SOOW cable will have in outer jacket that thickness of coating applied to the inner conductors so thin you can see the inner conductor under it. Cut at random this cable and at times there can be as little as 1/32" of thickness or less of outer jacket in protecting the inner jacket insulation. Euro compliant cable with outer jacket applied over the inner conductors is not acceptable to me if even I consider dangerous as mostly seen in larger gauges but for other sizes I mostly send it back if seen. In type S' cable, Euro compliant cable I would avoid for general service. Want that pulled outer jacket that's uniformly thick with at times a paper jacket and always a filler between conductors to help with strength and to keep it round. Euro cable is crap.

A further concept in wire is while normally type S wire is only 90c in temperature rating at best if not 75c for type T at times. Belden seems to have a line of thermoplastic 105c wire. Can't say I would buy it in general but recently I did so with some 18/3 19509 SJTOW for re-wiring up some PAR 20 cans. This for a small can as opposed to TMB's ProZone PCZ143 or PCZ163 200c fixture wire for real cans or other fixtures. This TMB cable very similar to the long past Rockbestos Supernat Heatzone fixture cable that was great in design but is very discontinued. Much better than any Lex or other brand of Tempflex type silicone type heat wire that cuts with a finger nail and don't survive bending at the strain relief or DF-50 fluid in the air. At least for fixture wiring, there is options if not the less flexible but sill useful First Capital fiberglass braid FEP or PFA cable with its 6" bending dia. but otherwise fairly bullet proof and also 200c.


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## mrb (Oct 28, 2009)

the difference in construction between the cables:
The US cable, the conductors are twisted with the filler, then a thin tissue paper liner is applied over the round assembly, then the jacket extruded over it. -the wire isnt pulled through the jacket. 
The euro cable, the conductors are twisted and coated with talc then the jacket extruded over it. The biggest thing I hate with the cable where the jacket extends into the voids between the conductors is it is very difficult to strip without nicking the insulation on a conductor.


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