# Coffin Locks on Standard Platforms



## JHWelch (Feb 17, 2016)

I am assuming this is a pretty simple question, but I can't find any tutorials on how to use coffin locks with a standard platform! I was looking specifically at Rosebrand's model but am open for suggestions.

Do you simply cut a notch out of the top of the plywood on the edge and screw it to the 2x4 that is exposed? Is there a better way?

Thanks!


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## microstar (Feb 17, 2016)

No, the coffin lock sits against the underside of the plywood. Notch the 2x4 frame and place the open side of the lock flush with the outside of the platform. You will need to mark and drill a hole in the plywood top for the hex key to go down into the lock, then drill holes to bolt the lock in place. Repeat for the other half in the mating platform. Also known as a Roto-Lock.


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## BillConnerFASTC (Feb 18, 2016)

Roto Lock is (or perhaps was) a trade name for one brand of coffin locks. Not to be confused with Rota Lock, the pipe connector.


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## Lextech (Feb 18, 2016)

microstar said:


> No, the coffin lock sits against the underside of the plywood. Notch the 2x4 frame and place the open side of the lock flush with the outside of the platform. You will need to mark and drill a hole in the plywood top for the hex key to go down into the lock, then drill holes to bolt the lock in place. Repeat for the other half in the mating platform. Also known as a Roto-Lock.


This. I must add that making a template for your locations is VERY helpful. Not just when you are constructing your first batch, but when you suddenly realize you need ten more 6 months down the line.


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## JHWelch (Feb 18, 2016)

Thanks a bunch! I thought it was a simple answer, but couldn't find the information anywhere else!


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## derekleffew (Feb 18, 2016)

Another consideration is to pay attention to where males/females are installed. For a 4x4: genders oppose (or maybe it's boy,boy,girl,girl--can't remember). For a 4x8: boy,girl,boy,girl,boy,girl (the dinner party method); one at each end, two each on the long sides.

If you're using a lot of them, and you value your knees/back, buy or fabricate one of these:


Production Advantage: Deck Stick, 5/16" Hex, 37" Long, w/ Nylon Grip


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## BillConnerFASTC (Feb 18, 2016)

I think under the deck top and a notch in framing as discussed is probably the best but I have seen them just applied to the bottom of the 2 by fram, and even in the center in a routed out opening, which does weaken the frame the least (compared to notching). Minor difference.

You might consider 2' from ends - thus 2 on an 8' edge - but also mates logically with one on the center of a 4' edge.


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## bobgaggle (Feb 18, 2016)

I'm surprised no one has mentioned DONT REVERSE THE LOCK!! I had a nightmare one load out because someone had installed the male side without regard for the direction of the hook. So it was a crapshoot as to which direction you needed to turn the key. Wouldn't have been much of an issue but they were old beat up platforms so you really had to put some torque on the key to get it open, and if you don't know which way you're supposed to turn its ever worse. That being said, it you want longevity out of a ply platform lid you can make these

We cut a piece of 1/8" flat bar to 1 1/2" square and weld on a 3/4" long piece of tube to the bottom. This platform has marley on it so we cut the marley around the bar and it sits almost flush with the floor. Its great for keeping the hole in the wood from getting worn/torn out


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## RonHebbard (Feb 18, 2016)

bobgaggle said:


> I'm surprised no one has mentioned DONT REVERSE THE LOCK!! I had a nightmare one load out because someone had installed the male side without regard for the direction of the hook. So it was a crapshoot as to which direction you needed to turn the key. Wouldn't have been much of an issue but they were old beat up platforms so you really had to put some torque on the key to get it open, and if you don't know which way you're supposed to turn its ever worse. That being said, it you want longevity out of a ply platform lid you can make theseView attachment 12968
> 
> We cut a piece of 1/8" flat bar to 1 1/2" square and weld on a 3/4" long piece of tube to the bottom. This platform has marley on it so we cut the marley around the bar and it sits almost flush with the floor. Its great for keeping the hole in the wood from getting worn/torn out


At Stratford the welders were installing short lengths of round stock inside the extremities to minimize the tendency to slide when locking. Rotating rep with dedicated decks for different productions meant lots of unlocking and locking per week with even more on matinee days. As previously posted, DEFINITELY install ALL locks to lock and unlock with the same rotation and Stratford's waist high keys were fabricated with handles intended for two-handed operation.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard


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## gafftapegreenia (Feb 18, 2016)

Is there anything that can be done retroactively to keep locks from opening too far? When locks get a bit worn it's easy for the cam to be moved so far that it actually reengages on the other side. 


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## RonHebbard (Feb 18, 2016)

As to preventing "opening too far", all I can offer is with Stratford's waist high keys fabricated for two-handed operation, you quickly became adept at unlocking with the correct amount of rotation as you'd hurt your arms if trying to over-rotate. With my stroke came retirement so I'm no longer there to nag people for further info.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard


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## jstroming (Feb 21, 2016)

Make sure you keep the 3-in-1 oil handy


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