# I broke my Rosco Delta 3000, Help!



## Owen Sahnow (May 1, 2017)

I attempted to hook up my Rosco Delta 3000 to a network, which we discovered after the fact that was not supposed to happen. The thing won't work now and I really need to fix it. I checked the fuses and they are intact. I know this machine was discontinued, but if anyone out there has any info, please let me know. I can't seem to find anything about it on the internet. I have an Analog/DMX Remote


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## Les (May 2, 2017)

Can you explain more about this "network"? Sounds like you may have run power in to the data? If so, the mains fuses would be intact. More likely you'd have lost an SMD fuse on the board or something like that. 

Anyway, can't say much else without more info.


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## Owen Sahnow (May 2, 2017)

Les said:


> Can you explain more about this "network"? Sounds like you may have run power in to the data? If so, the mains fuses would be intact. More likely you'd have lost an SMD fuse on the board or something like that.
> 
> Anyway, can't say much else without more info.



It was plugged through a network switch so that is very possible. The switch most likely got confused because it was not build with standard switching procedures in mind. Where would be the SMD fuse?


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## TNasty (May 2, 2017)

If you pop the unit open, you'll see a bunch of the circuit boards. You'll most likely see what's gone bad (funky colors, char, melted plastic, all that fun stuff). If you don't see something, just upload some pictures, and I'll be happy to give it a good look over.


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## jayvee (May 2, 2017)

If it's at all helpful, here is the manual for that machine.
http://legacy.rosco.com/manuals/fog/DeltaWebManual.pdf


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## Owen Sahnow (May 2, 2017)

TNasty said:


> If you pop the unit open, you'll see a bunch of the circuit boards. You'll most likely see what's gone bad (funky colors, char, melted plastic, all that fun stuff). If you don't see something, just upload some pictures, and I'll be happy to give it a good look over.



There don't seem to be any obvious problems, and the fuses are intact. Here are some pictures


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## TNasty (May 2, 2017)

Fuse 1 (F1- the one on top) doesn't look too happy. Have you tested its continuity?

It seems like Fuse 1 goes into the AC to DC transformer, which is for all your things like signal processing, motor power, and all those small load things that need fine power control. Fuse 2 doesn't seem to go to the transformer, but into the Heat + terminal.

Does it heat up at all? It should heat up, as long as you don't have to enable the heat through control (being that it's constant on as long as the unit has power).


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## Amiers (May 2, 2017)

What is your description of wont work.

Doesn't turn on?

Doesn't make fog?

No remote control?

Board looks fine.


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## Owen Sahnow (May 2, 2017)

Amiers said:


> What is your description of wont work.
> 
> Doesn't turn on?
> 
> ...


The unit will not turn on


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## Owen Sahnow (May 2, 2017)

TNasty said:


> Fuse 1 (F1- the one on top) doesn't look too happy. Have you tested its continuity?
> 
> It seems like Fuse 1 goes into the AC to DC transformer, which is for all your things like signal processing, motor power, and all those small load things that need fine power control. Fuse 2 doesn't seem to go to the transformer, but into the Heat + terminal.
> 
> Does it heat up at all? It should heat up, as long as you don't have to enable the heat through control (being that it's constant on as long as the unit has power).


Both fuses are intact, I thought the same thing at first, but it turns out it is just a very small wire. I did test it


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## Owen Sahnow (May 2, 2017)

TNasty said:


> Fuse 1 (F1- the one on top) doesn't look too happy. Have you tested its continuity?
> 
> It seems like Fuse 1 goes into the AC to DC transformer, which is for all your things like signal processing, motor power, and all those small load things that need fine power control. Fuse 2 doesn't seem to go to the transformer, but into the Heat + terminal.
> 
> Does it heat up at all? It should heat up, as long as you don't have to enable the heat through control (being that it's constant on as long as the unit has power).


And the remote is needed to power it up to heat up the element, so I seem to be at a stalemate


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## Amiers (May 2, 2017)

How did you hook it up to your switch. 

Switch controller delta?


I would plug it in and start metering things on the board til you find something that doesn't have power.


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## Owen Sahnow (May 2, 2017)

Amiers said:


> How did you hook it up to your switch.
> 
> Switch controller delta?
> 
> ...


We tried that, everything seems to work electrically in the base all the way up to the heating element.


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## Amiers (May 2, 2017)

You didn't answer the first question.

Looking closer at the board did you plug direct into the RJ45 jack on that board. If so and the controller has a different voltage out of what a Ethernet cable carries than you are SOL. not to say you can't fix it but I am going to assume you damaged the chip that sends and feed power to the controller rendering your machine dead.


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## TNasty (May 3, 2017)

Amiers said:


> Looking closer at the board did you plug direct into the RJ45 jack on that board. If so and the controller has a different voltage out of what a Ethernet cable carries than you are SOL. not to say you can't fix it but I am going to assume you damaged the chip that sends and feed power to the controller rendering your machine dead.


Agreed. Without any visual signs of damage, there's literally dozens of different components that could have gone bad, and I'm still waiting to meet somebody who'd be willing to spend several months of waiting for parts in the mail, finding out they spent money on replacing a working part, and moving on to the next component. Even if you do have the patience, good luck getting any BGA chips removed and placed without spending a fortune.


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## Eugene Palmer (Apr 2, 2018)

I also have a broken Delta 3000, which is no longer supported by Rosco, no parts, nada. I didn't plug network POE to it but someone else may have. However, I have it working in Caveman Mode, which means that since the heater is good and the pump is good you can remove the electronics entirely, apply power to the heater, then run the pump directly from a dimmer. The pump is 120vac so this works. Of course this is not going to be condoned by the manufacturer, or anyone else probably, but as long as you do nice internal wiring with inline fuses etc., and don't overflow the heater by keeping the pump under about 65%, it works. More than 65% and it spews fluid out the front. And since the pump dimmer can be controlled by the light board, you can still cue it. The heater still has the thermal switch on it so it would trip if the heater somehow went out of control.

I went through the circuit board in detail before I did this, the DC side showed good 12vdc, on the AC side the pump and heater SCRs checked out, etc. I was not going to attempt a circuit board repair that was certain to cost excessive time and money and had little or no guarantee of success.


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## Mac Hosehead (Apr 2, 2018)

Eugene Palmer said:


> I also have a broken Delta 3000, which is no longer supported by Rosco, no parts, nada. I didn't plug network POE to it but someone else may have. However, I have it working in Caveman Mode, which means that since the heater is good and the pump is good you can remove the electronics entirely, apply power to the heater, then run the pump directly from a dimmer. The pump is 120vac so this works. Of course this is not going to be condoned by the manufacturer, or anyone else probably, but as long as you do nice internal wiring with inline fuses etc., and don't overflow the heater by keeping the pump under about 65%, it works. More than 65% and it spews fluid out the front. And since the pump dimmer can be controlled by the light board, you can still cue it. The heater still has the thermal switch on it so it would trip if the heater somehow went out of control.
> 
> I went through the circuit board in detail before I did this, the DC side showed good 12vdc, on the AC side the pump and heater SCRs checked out, etc. I was not going to attempt a circuit board repair that was certain to cost excessive time and money and had little or no guarantee of success.


Caveman Mode indeed. It would appear that you have bypassed any temperature regulation in the heat exchanger. MSDS sheets are based on a certain operating temperature. I wouldn't want to rely on a overtemp safety switch.


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## Eugene Palmer (Apr 2, 2018)

Point taken. In fact I think I ruined the heater as it doesn't respond at all after its first test. Oh well, its off to the recycling dump. I guess that pair of 25amp SCR's was there for a reason.


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