# question about hanging things



## blalew (Feb 13, 2012)

Hello all. A question regarding hanging some flat wood pieces for use as a background for video behind a speaker.

I have avoided hanging things because of all the warnings & so forth. So we're starting slowly after doing a lot of research.

The pieces we have constructed are similar to this:
Homemade Pallets | Church Stage Design Ideas

We have a batten to hang them from.

My question is regarding a system that we can use to hang things without using swingset chain, S-hooks, etc from Home Depot & instead using forged & rated components.

The flats have a frame. We were planning to attach two forged eyebolts to the bottom rail for each piece. Then, working upward - we would use a hook turnbuckle on each (for trim), then a thimble on wire rope (with cable clips), running up through small holes in the top rail of the frame, up to a small shackle that would connect the thimble of the wire rope hangers to a small (8" or so) wire rope sling running around the batten.

Trying to do it the right way.

Thanks all.


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## Footer (Feb 13, 2012)

Sounds about right. Few general rules, always use rated hardware, always keep everything in compression, and always follow whatever the manufacture spec is for whatever hardware/termination is. Make sure you have a large washer on the eye bolt to spread the load around. I would prefer you go with something like this: TheatricalHardware.com Shackle Plate 1/2" Hole. It should be bolted in, not screwed. Finally, while slings can work, we would rather see you use chain to secure the load to the batten.


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## MPowers (Feb 13, 2012)

I am surprised that the Photo of the Shackle plate shows a thimble eye nicopressed in, without a shackle. If you go this route, use a shackle.

Additional hardware, take a look at a standard bottom hanging iron. The Iron takes the entire weight, none of the force goes to the bolt holding it on. Hint, it's about halfway down the page. Scenic Flat & Platform Hardware from Rose Brand

Other places to get both kinds of hardware, Mutual Hardware, BMI Supply to name a couple.


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## blalew (Feb 13, 2012)

OK, this is good. Thank you.

My thought on hanging the stuff with the eyebolt/thru the top rail was to help with center of mass so that it doesn't hang tilting forward, but is that necessary?

Seems like a shackle plate + keeper plate would work better since we're not drilling through the top & bottom rails, but would it potentially tilt forward? Is that why the bottom hanging iron is shaped like a J?

Any places in TX that folks recommend for hardware?


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## blalew (Feb 13, 2012)

One more question about the hardware/rail interface - I noticed you said to bolt the hardware, avoid screwing it. I understand why, but is that the case for the bottom hanger iron, which appears to have countersunk holes for wood screws?


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## JohnD (Feb 13, 2012)

Three companies come to mind,
TSC - Theatrical Stage Equipment
Barbizon Lighting Company
and also:
http://stagelight.com/home
which lists the items in question in their online catalog.


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## Van (Feb 13, 2012)

The countersunk holes are for the installation of Flat Head Stove Bolts, Not wood screws.


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## MPowers (Feb 13, 2012)

any method of rigging needs a cable guide as close to the top of the unit as possible, that is what the keeper plate shown in the photo is for. The Bottom hanger iron needs a keeper plate as well

The only type of hanging hardware that does not need a keeper is a TOP HANGER IRON. Scenic Flat & Platform Hardware from Rose Brand it is the next to last thing on the page at the bottom. Top hanger iron is placed at the very top so the lean problem is minimized.

In your case, judging from the photos you posted, you will need to route the cable through the "Pallet" so that is is centered front to back over the CoG point (Center of Gravity).


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## gafftapegreenia (Feb 13, 2012)

blalew said:


> we would use a hook turnbuckle on each (for trim),



Turn buckles are great as long as they are properly rated and don't have open ends such as the two on the left in this picture:


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## MPowers (Feb 13, 2012)

> Originally Posted by blalew we would use a hook turnbuckle on each (for trim),




gafftapegreenia said:


> Turn buckles are great as long as they are properly rated and don't have open ends such as the two on the left in this picture:




GOOD CATCH !! gafftapegreenia!!!!! I confess, I missed the OP's remark about hook TB's in his original post. 

To blalew, the OP, never use open hook turnbuckles for theatrical rigging. I personally prefer the J&J type shown on the far right, but with a bolt and NyLoc nut rather than a cotter pin. The J&J reduces the number of shackles you need for a job thus the number of mousing jobs. The J&J can be open and closed repeatedly without a need to mouse the jaw. You do still need to mouse the turnbuckle itself though!


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## blalew (Feb 14, 2012)

MPowers said:


> The J&J can be open and closed repeatedly without a need to mouse the jaw



Sorry to be dense - but what does this mean?

I'll go with the Jaw/Jaw instead of hook/hook


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## blalew (Feb 14, 2012)

Whoops! - I didn't see that "mouse" was in the wiki when I wrote that, now I know! Strange, because I was sure I looked for the little yellow underline. Oh well.

I'm assuming it's a no-no to use vinyl covered wire rope. Is painting acceptable for the purposes of hiding?

Thanks-


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## derekleffew (Feb 14, 2012)

blalew said:


> Whoops! - I didn't see that "mouse" was in the wiki when I wrote that, now I know! Strange, because I was sure I looked for the little yellow underline. Oh well.


It might not have been yellow-underlined. See this bug report post.


blalew said:


> I'm assuming it's a no-no to use vinyl covered wire rope. Is painting acceptable for the purposes of hiding?


One can use vinyl-coated, but must strip the insulation off before using a cable clip or swage sleeve fitting. For years stagehands have been spray painting wire rope black, a messy and laborious practice. A number of vendors including Fehr Bros. now sell black GAC.


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## MPowers (Feb 14, 2012)

As derekleffew pointed out, yes you can uses vinyl coated cable if you strip the coating anywhere you have an attachment. The real problem is that it is shiny, and 2-3 times the diameter of the same size un-coated, so it tends to be very visible. Virtually all dealers of stage hardware sell powder coated black GAC today. In your area contact your friendly TSC TSC - Theatrical Stage Equipment people and see if they can help you out. They also sell bottom and top hanging irons.


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## blalew (Feb 20, 2012)

So much thanks to all who contributed. Thanks also to Texas Scenic who helped me put the right parts together (with the right capacities) & got it out quickly...

Ended up using (from bottom to top) forged eyebolts through bottom rail, shackle, eye/jaw turnbuckle, 1/8" wire rope (thimbles/clips), shackle, proof chain around batten.

what's nice is everything is reusable (except wire rope, I suppose). Again, thanks for helping me get started in the right direction.



EDIT: forgot to mention that I used the BACKSTAGE HANDBOOK for info on the wire rope/clips - 'never saddle a dead horse' and 1/8" wire rope needs two clips with 3 1/4" turnback. (page 103).

I still don't know what I don't know, but moving in the right direction


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