# My platform system



## gafftaper

I've had several people ask me how to build a good quiet platform in the past. I just finished putting one together and built some new pieces. As long as I was doing it I thought I would take a bunch of pictures and post them. So what follows is a step by step guide through the system I use. I'm sure there are lots of other great options out there, but currently this is my favorite. I admit the platforms are very heavy... but they are very strong, very quiet, and very stable. I see no reason you couldn't use this system to build a platform 10 feet tall if you wanted.

For the platform itself I use a 2X4 frame with a brace every 24 inches. The platform pictured is only a 48 inch square but you will see examples of an 8 footer below. 



I place a layer of 1/2 inch sound proofing board underneath a layer of 3/4 inch plywood. This is the same fibrous stuff used in walls to keep the noise down between you and your neighbor. It's really nasty stuff to work with so use a respirator if you have to cut it. And be careful how you breathe when you are loading it at the lumber yard.



Think of your platform as a giant drum head. Keeping the platform quiet is all about minimizing vibration. So we use a thick plywood stock, we put a layer of sound deadener in the middle to absorb vibration, and by placing braces every 24 inches which are screwed into from the top we shrink down the area that is free to vibrate.



Now for the legs. Build legs of 1X4 and 2X4 as pictured below. The 2X4's are 24 inches apart... this lines up perfectly with the bracing on the platform to transfer the weight perfectly.



Now cut a cover for every second section. This is to create cross bracing to prevent rocking the long way on the platform down the road. I use 1/4 inch luan. You could also use 1/8 inch luan, or even Masonite. It doesn't have to be thick at all. It's simply fixing the distance on the surrounding 2X4's so they can't rock.



Now bolt together however many platforms you need.



And attach the leg units, 2 per platform. I just use either a 2 or 2 1/2 inch screw through the 1x4 of the leg unit and into the main long 2X4 of the platform. One screw per "square" is enough.



Now attach cross bracing to the legs. Each end gets a straight piece of 1X3 that matches the distance between the legs where they attach to the platform... make sure you've got everything square and plum in this step. Then add diagonal cross bracing every 4 feet. This doesn't have to be particularly strong... I use 1X2 or 1X3. Be sure that your diagonal cross bracing alternates for added strength... always pre-drill your holes when using 1X2 and 1X3, it WILL split.



If you are putting several platforms together be sure all your cross bracing is always high to low, low to high, in every direction there is never two of the same side by side...



That's it, now get an army and roll that bad boy over.
The only problem I have with this system is the occasional squeak of two platforms flexing when an actor walks. Often this can be solved by adding another bolt between platforms or tightening existing bolts. I'm thinking about adding some sort of thin rubber strip between platforms to prevent squeaks. To finish it off I just enclose it with luan facing.
Like I said, it's a serious pain in the butt to move around but it's quiet and strong. I've seen people stuffing platforms with pillows, blankets, even stapling fiberglass insulation underneath. You won't have to do that with this system. If you have the storage space, you can keep all the parts and re-assembly is very rapid. At my old high school over a period of several years I developed a nice stock of several standard heights. I could grab some 16, 24, or 32 inch legs and slap together the perfect platform in no time.


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## cutlunch

Thanks Gafftaper that is a very good presentation. These platforms are definitely built solid. How do you store them stacked flat or verticaly? How much does the timber cost in each platform? 

Just out of interest what is the tallest one you have made?

Thanks again for posting this info.


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## Chaos is Born

How thick are these platforms when completed? and whats the weight ratio for leg support (how much of the platform can be hung out over something with little to no deflection and no support)?

Our theatre at the school here is working with "Triscuits" Basically a 4'x4' square that you build stud walls to support. They weigh in at about 75-80 lbs a piece but they are solid as a rock and are quiet as well. These are only 2 1/4" thick. You can also hang 2/3rds of them off an edge with no support under those 2/3rds and it will have less than 1/2" deflection. The amount of support per square foot that these can hold is aproximately 200lbs. 

If you would like a drawing i can post one up for you guys.


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## gafftaper

Sorry... looks like Yahoo doesn't want that many people to look at my pictures. Here they are below. 

I've only built them to 6' high... but clearly it's just a matter of how well you build the "stud wall" supports. I store the platforms in a flat stack and the legs are light enough that they can be stashed in whatever interesting hiding places you can find in your theater.

*EDIT*... I've attached the pictures to this message redirected the links to control booth so they should work now. (Anyone know why the


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## jwl868

If I ever have the occasion to make platforms again, I hope I remember this thread. I like the leg "system". Looks a lot easier to build (and disassemble for storage and re-use) that the system I've used.


Joe


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## gafftaper

Cost? Well around here a 4X8 platform is currently running about $55 for wood. A 24" high leg unit is currently running about $10.


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## Chaos is Born

Ok, here is a quick rough drawing. 

The grain of the plywood runs top to bottom on this drawing (so that the long pieces of 1x are holding the full weight of the grain from the plywood)

You would make studwalls for the legging units, the vertical legs only have to be every 2' though. (can fudge it to 3' for ease if needed)

For strength and multiple useage you would want to use AB ply, and grade A 1x (yes expensive but these are some resiliant platforms)

Sandwich the 1x strips between the 4x8 sheets of plywood using glue (and staples only to hold them in place). The glue is what makes this so extremely structural.

As said before, these weigh about 75-80 lbs and you can easily have half of them with no support overhanging nothingness and up to 3/4 of them if secured correctly.

And these are about as strong as your stage floor and are quiet as well.


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## SweetBennyFenton

Van and I started using a modified triscuit design this year and everyone here seems to like them. My favorite part of owning triscuits is that they are so easy to store.

We have a very small storage space, and I have one 4' x 4' area where I store the platforms. I've got one stack, 30 high.

I like your design a lot Gafftaper. I'll have to remember it.


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## Traitor800

So heres an intresting solution that my TD came up with for elimanting the noise of actors walking around on platforms.
We take the standard 4'x8' platforms that we use(2x4 sides and 3/4 ply top) arrange them however we need to and then we place foam carpet padding on the platform, followed by a Masonite top. The carpet padding that we use is the stuff that is like a particle foam with a plastic mesh in it, and its like .5" thick. We get the padding free from a local carpet installer, they give us their castoffs and scraps, and we just piece it together to fit our platforms. It eliminates a lot of noise and it makes the platforms really nice to walk on.


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## icewolf08

Am I understanding the "Triscuit" correctly in that it is basically a stressed skin platform? Just wondering.

Also, on gafftaper's original idea. We use a modified version of that technique at my theatre depending on need. Sometimes we will build the deck for a show with standard platform construction and then surface the entire deck with Celotex (the sound proofing material). Then depending on the needs of the show we would do one of two things. For some shows we lay Masonite or other decking over the Celotex. For other shows we just dutchman with muslin over the Celotex. That eats a lot of paint, and means that we can't roll the Genie or Ladder on the deck, but it makes the deck very quiet.


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## Van

icewolf08 said:


> Am I understanding the "Triscuit" correctly in that it is basically a stressed skin platform? Just wondering....


Yes we use a modified version of the Yale-ly Stressed skins often reffered to as "Triscuits". They see to hold up quite well, tend to be quiet. I really want to try making some out of extruded polyethylene foam and plywood. I've seen them used in new housing construction for roofs and they seem to be light and structural at the same time. The trick as I see it, is getting a high quality contact cement, that won't eat the foam. 30 Neutral is what i've used in the past, just need to find more......


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## Chaos is Born

icewolf08 said:


> Am I understanding the "Triscuit" correctly in that it is basically a stressed skin platform? Just wondering.




Yeah, the design is what we switched over to when our TD came in (yes he graduated Yale). We also built carts to hold 10 of them... nothing quite like having a half ton cart of wood rolling around waiting to crush someone.

You can also make other stock sizes like 2x4 and 1x4 Triscuits. Not much changes really, the 1x4s don't have bracing in the center. the 2x4's have one or two center cross pieces instead of the three in the 4x4. 

I would not sugjest making anything larger than a 4x4 triscuit... you could make up to a 4x8 but it would weigh a hell of a lot...


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## icewolf08

Van said:


> I really want to try making some out of extruded polyethylene foam and plywood. I've seen them used in new housing construction for roofs and they seem to be light and structural at the same time. The trick as I see it, is getting a high quality contact cement, that won't eat the foam. 30 Neutral is what i've used in the past, just need to find more......



One of the other ways that I have seen stressed skin platforms made is with honeycomb as the center material. Light and very sturdy. I believe you can get it in 4x8 sheets which make it very convenient for platforming. Not cheap stuff, but it works well.


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## leistico

I've been wondering about triscuits. We're about to build an apron for our stage, as right now we're using audience risers (Stageright) supporting 2" thick 4x8 decking as a stage surface/apron. We want to reclaim our audience risers, so we're looking at building a "permanent" apron, and I'd love to try triscuits on studwalls.

To those who use 'em now--the Yale-ish variety--how well do they hold up to screws and such, i.e. flats and scenery being attached to 'em? Would screw holes, through the ply or through the ply and the stringers, weaken them considerably? Also, as far as mounting, carriage bolts? Regular bolts with flat heads ratcheted down flush? We do a lot of musicals, so there'd be dancing up there.

Also, do you use the triscuits bare-topped, or do you lay something like masonite or lauan over top of the triscuits once they're in place? Would that even be advisable? I'm just trying to gather all the pertinent info before I commit to a course of action. Thanks

sean


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## Van

leistico said:


> I've been wondering about triscuits. We're about to build an apron for our stage, as right now we're using audience risers (Stageright) supporting 2" thick 4x8 decking as a stage surface/apron. We want to reclaim our audience risers, so we're looking at building a "permanent" apron, and I'd love to try triscuits on studwalls.
> 
> To those who use 'em now--the Yale-ish variety--how well do they hold up to screws and such, i.e. flats and scenery being attached to 'em? Would screw holes, through the ply or through the ply and the stringers, weaken them considerably? Also, as far as mounting, carriage bolts? Regular bolts with flat heads ratcheted down flush? We do a lot of musicals, so there'd be dancing up there.
> 
> Also, do you use the triscuits bare-topped, or do you lay something like masonite or lauan over top of the triscuits once they're in place? Would that even be advisable? I'm just trying to gather all the pertinent info before I commit to a course of action. Thanks
> 
> sean


 

Good Questions! personally I usually use 3" drywall screws to anchor the triscuits to the pony walls. I suppose, if you built a lot of stock size ponie and triscuits you could develope a bolt hole pattern that would work out properly for a wide variety of layouts. As for bolting you'd definately need to use a carriage, as you are not going to want to put too big a countersink hole in the top or bottom "waffers" or you'll create a structural instability. 
I cover most all of my platforms with either 1/4" tempered Hardboard < masonite> OR 1/4 MDF the advantage of MDF is it size, 49"x97" so you can completely cover a 4x8 area including seams. 
I've found the triscuits have held up well to being repeatedly screwed to < > A trick SweetbennyFenton < a member here and my former MC> used when laying out the triscuits is to actually build them 1/4" short all the way around so a 48x48 is actually 47 3/4" x47 3/4" this alows you o layout the platforms on the stud walls and leave an 1/8" gap all the way around each unit. This process really cut down on squeaks. Baby powder is another good trick if your platforms start squeaking, and it makes strike smell "Oh So Fresh"


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## Chaos is Born

The way we keep our triscuts "fresh" and free of so many screw holes is we put 2x2 inch 1/8" thick strap steel that has a space routered out on the corners with 3 screws to hold the plate down and the fourth one is a hole all the way through that has the metal countersunk to already make the screw flush with the triscuit when its all the way in. This way, everyone knows where the screws are supposed to go and they don't make the triscuits into swiss cheese.

however cutting 8 2x2 inch squares per triscuit is tedious... but just think of drilling the 24 holes per triscuit to mount them...


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## msawyer52

We use this same platform to build a complete stage every year in our gymatorium. We've used the same platforms for over 10 years with minor repairs. We use 4'x8' platforms to make a 16'x32' stage. They hold up well and are "relativly" quiet. Nice explanation.


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## emac

Ok so i really like this system and i was wondering how i could make this work for my application. I am a high school student that runs the technical part of our drama department and events planning committee(we are a completely student run school(with out a drama teacher)) and I want to build a catwalk for the fashion show. It needs to be portable so that we can take it to the venue and I want it to be about 1-2 feet high. I already have 3 platforms with out legs that are 4x8 but if possible i would like to build a complete system..... Also it needs to be pretty cheap we have no budget for the fashion show....

thanks


emac


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## derekleffew

Not inexpensive, emac, but 100% reusable and should last forever:

gafftaper said:


> ...Possibly my favorite product... the LEG A MATIC!! from Theatricalhardware.com These guys have all kinds of good products but the Leg-a-matic makes platform construction so simple. They also have a new version that isn't on the website yet which accepts a pipe or square tube leg as well. They also have a lot of other great hardware on the site. ...




http://www.theatricalhardware.com/Leg-a-Matic.html


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## emac

derekleffew said:


> Not inexpensive, emac, but 100% reusable and should last forever:
> 
> 
> 
> TheatricalHardware.com Leg-a-Matic



I had seen this and i am considering it BUT I was wondering how i should brace the bottoms of the feet and still make it reusable i was thinking using bolts at the legs and having boards circle the platform???


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## ship

Grew up with carpet and even carpet padding stapled to the backs of platforms and dutchman covered platforms with carpet padding under the muslin cover. Both were ratty in ripping or coming loose but structurally sound as long as the stud connections stayed together. Later in an earlier college I moved onto a system similar to yours but found that there was problems in our case of the ½" black fiber Celotex panels providing just enough gap that it allowed for extra sheer of the screws attaching top to rails. Could be a difference of #8 drywall screws these days verses the #6 I remember back than for such a length. Didn’t like that method either. Even seen some places that used fiberglass insulation under the platform which does have a much better STC value than all but is even less portable or easy to use.

At CSSI we used 5/4x6 poplar to make the frames and did not use padding, also the corners were supported by aluminum corner blocks designed to support and allow for up to 18" 2x4 legs. The corner brace support structures added to the under side of the platform added to support and reinforcement of the corner so they would not come apart. But such platforms were not padded.

In another college we built a stock glued platform where the glue bonds plywood to frame this does not in being a problem both for strength and for keeping it together but added the Celotex above the plywood with a Hardboard top to it. Worked well, a bit more heavy and the tops were less so than above prone to also sheer of it or damage. Frame was normally good, just the top with problems.

Kind of preferred this method in structure than padding. 

Wondering if such a Celotex platform type might while less sound and shock absorbing, be better if attached under the platform in allowing the framing to be glued? This especially with corner block of some sort to reinforce it?

Granted legging if soft surface under it would be less efficient unless welded top plate corner block a leg fits into.

Good truss leg the truss leg system, certainly saves time over the countersunk sway brace truss legging I worked for in a third scene shop that used. On the other hand a bit more heavy unless ½" plywood. I tended in my own use to use the trussed legging other than for a single platform for the long run as a long and not duplicated between platforms sections all individual platforms more text book rested upon. Certainly easier to mount the truss first than install the platforms on it than as if individual platforms have a lot of extra support truss and all individual to each platform.

For legs, if say 18" or up to 36" leg, I might do a 2x4 with variable length 3/4" plywood double corner block pre-glued to it as wings. As opposed to a bunch of bullet holes in a 2x4 leg and what screwed into for weakening it, the 3/4" plywood corner block allowed for lots of re-use of hole or room for new holes and also a better distribution of places to screw into for fresh holes. 

General concept is after 18", you need bracing. In my case after 12" for say ½" plywood I did bracing and had pre-cut legs with wings already installed. Up to 36" with a 18" or 24" corner brace in bringing it back down to 18" unsupported length, all I had to do was screw in the leg.

After that, I normally trussed the thing in while it took more time perhaps, it took a lot less under the platform in shimming etc. afterwards. Trussed the whole thing on like 48" centers. Easier also to truss the whole platform especially if a rake than to truss each platform individually.

On sound proof platforms if doing so, wonder how well in general a stress skin panel would do and how to work with such a thing if other than truss legging. I would think it the best and even lightest method of doing it. But also probably the most expensive way of doing it.


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## ship

emac said:


> I had seen this and i am considering it BUT I was wondering how i should brace the bottoms of the feet and still make it reusable i was thinking using bolts at the legs and having boards circle the platform???



For your application, I wouldn't worry about sound proofing, get it structural and get it checked for proper. The corner bracing above would be good but I would not thru bolt it in either its going to remove platform material in countersinking the flat head screws or make for gaps between plaforms even if carriage bolts. I would drywall screw or Lag bolt in the legs dependant on what the manufacturer specifies. Than given a platform would brace the heck out of it in a structural way given higher than 36" platform length. A structure to be designed.

The above corner system was similar to what we made at CSSI only I remember a top plate, made of aluminum and made for #6 double head screws for nailing. No doubt they have switched to Triscit or stressed skin since than in completely new system. Is it stress skin with aluminum frame and ratchet lock most used in production companies now? Been a while for me in most of what I See has aluminum tubing corner leg supports.


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## skienblack

This is slightly off topic, but has anyone ever built a platform using 2x2 16 gauge steel or something similar? I am interested in minimizing weight as much as possible and also expediency that a large platform could be assembled.


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## ajb

skienblack said:


> This is slightly off topic, but has anyone ever built a platform using 2x2 16 gauge steel or something similar? I am interested in minimizing weight as much as possible and also expediency that a large platform could be assembled.



Sure. For fixed, single-use platforms in my experience it's not usually worth the the extra cost to go with steel framing, though, and don't count on any weight savings until you actually run the numbers for your particular application. 2" X .083" Square mech tube, for instance, weighs 2.13plf versus about 1.28plf for 2x4. 

Of course there are things you can build in metal that just can't be done in wood, and you *can* build thinner and stronger structures out of steel--but usually not lighter except in particular circumstances.

Granted, steel does become more attractive if you need rapid, repeated assembly, but only as long as all of your bolt holes are precise and accurate. And most importantly, don't forget that steel structures are only as good as the welds that hold them together!


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## skienblack

ajb said:


> Granted, steel does become more attractive if you need rapid, repeated assembly, but only as long as all of your bolt holes are precise and accurate. And most importantly, don't forget that steel structures are only as good as the welds that hold them together!



Yeah, my question is aimed at quick setting up and removal. During the summers I work for a sporting event management company. The way we run our events is, we usually will show up at midnight the day of the event and set-up until we start the event at 7AM and then strike our equipment at 8PM when the event finally wraps up. 

Currently we use 4X8 platforms from wood which are incredibly hard to put together rapidly and are also very heavy, which is no fun carrying around on the beach.


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## Footer

You don't actually need 2x2 to build steel platforming. 1x2 or 1.5x1.5 makes great framing for steel 4x8's. I build plenty of these style of platforms over a given season. They hold up great. Another great reason to build this way is you can have very low clearance platforming. We build these with 1.5x1.5, attach 3/4 ply and maso. You can then put 2" casters on it and you have a platform that is only 3" tall. These "lowboys" do make a big difference onstage. They also make great furniture wagons. 

All of the steel above are 16 gauge mechanical steel.


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## gafftaper

skienblack said:


> This is slightly off topic, but has anyone ever built a platform using 2x2 16 gauge steel or something similar? I am interested in minimizing weight as much as possible and also expediency that a large platform could be assembled.



A buddy of mine, at a community theater with no welding gear, is really into uni-strut. He once used strut to build a raked stage. He said it was really solid and easy to deal with. In order to attach wood to strut you slide a piece of 1x2 inside the strut. Now line up whatever you want to attach to the front closed surface (open edge facing away with the 1x2 inside). Screw through the wood you are attaching, through a hole in the strut, and into the 1x2. Make a Strut sandwich! They also used this technique to build set walls with strut instead of Jacks. It makes REALLY solid walls without trip hazards.


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## DuckJordan

It just reinforces my opinion of every "platform" my director who is an ex tech director makes is a death trap waiting to happen. they consist of a 2x4 frame for an 8'x4' platform with one support in the middle going from long side to long side then 4 2x4's for legs that is it. its made "stable" by putting more together... if you can get the image... imagine a table then replace the 3 bolts that they place in each leg with 2 1 inch screws then make it larger and out of cheaper wood. generaly pre cut stud pine... lowest grade (its cheaper says the director)


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## GDTStage

I know this thread was started a while back, but just wanted to say it has been very helpful for me. I am working on my first muli-level set. I have to construct off-site and our load-in is 5 days before opening. This platform design seems to lend itself well to pre-building the bulk and minimizing assembly on site. I have a lot of construction experience, but theater sets are relatively new to me. I tend to overbuild a lot so experience of those with more set construction background is really helpful in assisting me to trim costs and weight from my sets. Thanks everyone.


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## MPowers

Here is the ULR for a series of 6 or 7 articles I wrote on platforms. I discuss different types and the pros and cons. Also is a discussion of legging methods. If you read them, be sure to click on "read More" to see the drawings and the whole article.

Platforming, things to stand on, stage decks, etc.


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## kicknargel

I use the Texas truiscuit method that MPowers outlines in one of his articles.

Platforming Article #3

To sum up: it's a 4x4 platform made with 1.5" 16ga square tube (sometimes I use 1/5" x 1" for the inner frame to save weight). Skin w/ 5/8" AC ply. Although I've thought maybe I should just use 3/4" to make the math simpler and because I have it in stock. Leg them up on studwalls. I also have 4x2s and some triangles. You can also make one-off bastards with wood 1x2 frames if you over-leg them.

I like them because they're light, easy to install and very durable.


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## aluminous

Thank you for posting this system. I am the TD for a middle school production and am building a series of large moving platforms. My labor pool is primarily children, so fipping over a giant platform gets dangerous. I am constructing an 8'x12', 18" tall wagon, and a 12'x12' 50" tall rolling wagon. I am looking for alternatives to the 'build it and leg it upside down and flip it over method' 

thanks!

-Alex


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## chausman

Thanks! We should sticky this, so it doesn't get buried again.


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## Footer

aluminous said:


> Thank you for posting this system. I am the TD for a middle school production and am building a series of large moving platforms. My labor pool is primarily children, so fipping over a giant platform gets dangerous. I am constructing an 8'x12', 18" tall wagon, and a 12'x12' 50" tall rolling wagon. I am looking for alternatives to the 'build it and leg it upside down and flip it over method'
> 
> thanks!
> 
> -Alex



Studwalls. Build a standard studwall like you would see in house construction instead of legs. Build the walls, screw them together, screw casters to the base, and then attach the decks to the top. Works great... and no flipping involved.


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## What Rigger?

Gaff, when I get a big enough backyard, YOU are the foreman when I build the halfpipe.


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## aluminous

Footer said:


> Studwalls. Build a standard studwall like you would see in house construction instead of legs. Build the walls, screw them together, screw casters to the base, and then attach the decks to the top. Works great... and no flipping involved.


 

Thanks! I'll try that.


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## avkid

Please tell me that isn't a Black and Decker cordless.......


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## nquinn2

Hello All,
For triscuits we use 5/16 or 3/8 flat machine screws counter sunk into each corner. Like these: McMaster-Carr

We also leave a penny-sized gap to avoid squeaking, and we screw 1/4" MDF or 1/4" maso (countersunk for screw heads, and also depending on budgets) for paint treatments, otherwise all are already painted black.

Cheers,
Nick


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## gafftaper

What Rigger? said:


> Gaff, when I get a big enough backyard, YOU are the foreman when I build the halfpipe.


 
Feed me Tito's Tacos and you've got a deal.


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## Jon Taylor

Wow, so 10+ years since this original post, but just wanted to say THANKS!! I'm a hobbyist (i.e., self taught) TD at a community theater and I used this system for our latest set. Cast is rehearsing on it now and say they've never had such stable platforms! Some pics here.


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## ship

Wow incredible shop to work in especially for a community theater. Looks as well equipped as a proper scene shop. On the 4' side are you using ?1x and only sway braces on the 4' ends of the 4x8? Might do double that in adding to counter sway brace to the toggles dependent on lenth of run or amount of action. This at least for the end of platform run toggles. Or perhaps use a whaler "L" shape or t-shaped sway brace for the end of platform run sway brace. unless 2x4.

Used framing like this in the past, seems like you have a much larger and better shop in doing so than I ever did. Nice setup and construction.

You are there, but get some books like "Scenery for the Theater" , "Professional Scenery Construction", there is a book on engineering for the theater, I have an early version and not in my book notes seemingly for title. Will try to find it as useful texts especially if modern version.

Wow trip thru many years ago, these days it's all aluminum trussed platforms locked together and structural leg systems what goes out on tours. Come a long way since the above mentioned carpet padding and Dutchman and nailed often without good glue platforms, and hammered in legs I learned in the 80's. As with clout nails for soft flat framing.


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## Jon Taylor

ship said:


> Wow incredible shop to work in especially for a community theater. Looks as well equipped as a proper scene shop. On the 4' side are you using ?1x and only sway braces on the 4' ends of the 4x8? Might do double that in adding to counter sway brace to the toggles dependent on lenth of run or amount of action. This at least for the end of platform run toggles. Or perhaps use a whaler "L" shape or t-shaped sway brace for the end of platform run sway brace. unless 2x4.
> 
> Used framing like this in the past, seems like you have a much larger and better shop in doing so than I ever did. Nice setup and construction.
> 
> You are there, but get some books like "Scenery for the Theater" , "Professional Scenery Construction", there is a book on engineering for the theater, I have an early version and not in my book notes seemingly for title. Will try to find it as useful texts especially if modern version.
> 
> Wow trip thru many years ago, these days it's all aluminum trussed platforms locked together and structural leg systems what goes out on tours. Come a long way since the above mentioned carpet padding and Dutchman and nailed often without good glue platforms, and hammered in legs I learned in the 80's. As with clout nails for soft flat framing.



Thanks, ship, it is a nice place to work in. We have a good size scene shop, prop room, and costume storage, but no theater of our own. We rely on local schools and other venues. When I started volunteering, our scene shop was not very functional because it was filled with a decade's worth of stuff. The first set I built I was constantly moving old stuff around to make room to work. We did a couple of purges since then and I spent my semester break this December making it functional: organizing the hardware and tools, building workbench space for outfeed table/assembly table, etc. 

For the platforms, there is a counter diagonal brace in the center of each platform running on the 4' side per gafftaper's design, and all the diagonal braces alternate. This show has a small cast, mostly children, and no dancing. Our show run is one weekend. 

Thanks for the book suggestions; I'll look out for them. I do have the engineering book "Structural Design for the Stage" which I am slowly working through. Also "Stock Scenery Construction Handbook" and "The Stagecraft Handbook" are helpful. 

Thanks for the reply!


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## ship

That's great what you "No Guts no glory" did, It looks like a great shop from what is seen.

Purging is hard because one year or the next it might be needed. One year my shop purgerd all of it's PAR 64 cans given the S-4 PAR development... and had to buy hundreds more months later. Pulled retired beam projectors out of an employee's attic from the Bob Segar "Fade to black" 1970's tour for use on tours 30+ years later during a beam projector very popular period of time in LD design. Frequently run into that problem, but on the other hand you often get space to re-create it better - even if more work to re-create the same thing. Lots of scenery storage space for future stuff. I have no idea of where "Audrie II and III wound up I once owned. Granted 20 years later what for scenery might have worked again might not be useful for a future production. A system of storage useful in your sense / inventory and that of who you can borrow from or rent to = a good thing in network.

Not having a home theater to work in is hard, but in your situation seems to work out. Steppenwolf Theater Chicago worked that way when I was doing stuff, and built a good large name for themselves. Believe after years of separate scene shop, they got a theater, or got one and continued use of separate scene shop. Been a few years and never worked for them.

Keep the reading going.


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## Jon Taylor

ship said:


> That's great what you "No Guts no glory" did, It looks like a great shop from what is seen.
> 
> Purging is hard because one year or the next it might be needed. One year my shop purgerd all of it's PAR 64 cans given the S-4 PAR development... and had to buy hundreds more months later. Pulled retired beam projectors out of an employee's attic from the Bob Segar "Fade to black" 1970's tour for use on tours 30+ years later during a beam projector very popular period of time in LD design. Frequently run into that problem, but on the other hand you often get space to re-create it better - even if more work to re-create the same thing. Lots of scenery storage space for future stuff. I have no idea of where "Audrie II and III wound up I once owned. Granted 20 years later what for scenery might have worked again might not be useful for a future production. A system of storage useful in your sense / inventory and that of who you can borrow from or rent to = a good thing in network.
> 
> Not having a home theater to work in is hard, but in your situation seems to work out. Steppenwolf Theater Chicago worked that way when I was doing stuff, and built a good large name for themselves. Believe after years of separate scene shop, they got a theater, or got one and continued use of separate scene shop. Been a few years and never worked for them.
> 
> Keep the reading going.


Luckily with the purge had help from founding member of the theater and they were of the mind that we'd had stuff way too long that we "might" use someday. The problem is getting to the point where you buy and make things you already have because you can't find them or get to them. Our supply of casters was about 50% more than we thought; I kept finding them buried in boxes. Oh, and we're all set on wagon wheels for the foreseeable future.


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