# AudioTechnica (cringe...) Unipak wiring...



## Anonymous067 (Jul 29, 2009)

I recently had a few connectors on some Unipak lav mics break (came disconnected...way to go AT).

Anyway...helpful ole AT doesn't seem to have any pin-outs anywhere.

Can anybody advise me or point me towards some information regarding this...?

I think we have (never checked on this part...never had to) MT830cW lavs. From what I understand, these are condenser lavs?

What is the pinout for the Unipak connectors from AT.

What I've found is...
Pin1-shield
Pin2-instrument connection, wire to pin 1
Pin3-Mic connection
Pin4-bias

I hate AT.


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## BillESC (Jul 29, 2009)

According to Jim Schots at AT Wireless Service Dept, this is the assignments.

Shield to pins 1 & 2
White to pin 3
Red to pin 4


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## Anonymous067 (Sep 19, 2009)

Anybody know where to buy JUST a unipak connector? 
What I'm asking really is if AT distributes this?

I suppose I should call Full Compass first before posting this...
but if anybody knows before the weekend is up let me know!


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## shortcircuit (Nov 27, 2010)

Anonymous067 said:


> Anybody know where to buy JUST a unipak connector?
> What I'm asking really is if AT distributes this?
> 
> I suppose I should call Full Compass first before posting this...
> but if anybody knows before the weekend is up let me know!


 

From what I ve read on a Crown audio tech sheet
it's a hirose hr10 -7p-4s 
http://www.crownaudio.com/pdf/mics/125491.pdf


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## Anonymous067 (Nov 28, 2010)

shortcircuit said:


> From what I ve read on a Crown audio tech sheet
> it's a hirose hr10 -7p-4s
> http://www.crownaudio.com/pdf/mics/125491.pdf


 
I actually was going to start up this thread again, but figured it would just turn into a big rant....

*rant warning*

I TRIED to disassemble one of these connectors last weekend...it only ended in a broken connector and a few bloody fingers...

I couldn't get the part one would call an "insert" (referencing the parts of a normal XLR...) out of the housing.

And then, when I finally got it out, the housing ring BROKE (literally, in half) off the housing. I wasn't even touching the housing.

I really don't have a problem with doing repairs, but it shouldn't take the force of a hammer, screwdriver, and vice grips to get the insert out!! And yes, I started slow, and easy, and then had to progressively get more forceful with it.

WHY Audio-Technica, I ask you, WHY? It's stuff like this that will make me NEVER buy, or recommend the CRAP!!!

I've serviced plenty of TA4Fs...no problem! hmmm....

*rant over*

I just decided that instead of servicing these, I'll just let them rot away in storage since nobody will pay for them to be repaired by AT. hmph.


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## venuetech (Nov 28, 2010)

a few pages to take a look at

Series Description

http://www.hirose.co.jp/cataloge_hp/e11000216.pdf


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## Anonymous067 (Nov 29, 2010)

venuetech said:


> a few pages to take a look at
> 
> Series Description
> 
> http://www.hirose.co.jp/cataloge_hp/e11000216.pdf


 
Sorry, and no sarcasm intended, but I'm missing your point?


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## Wgiles (May 16, 2022)

I realize that this is an old thread and no one may care, but the Hirose connectors on Audio Technica Unipak microphones are Loctited. The nut is secured to the body of the connector with Loctite. To unscrew the nut without damage, slide the plastic shroud off the body and heat the nut with a cigarette lighter or tiny torch until the Loctite melts. The nut will then unscrew, but it will be much too hot to touch with bare fingers. Loctite melts at around 400F. If the nut won't turn, the Loctite hasn't melted. If it turns and then gets hard to turn, the melted Loctite has solidified. Once the connector has been successfully unscrewed, the solidified Loctite won't interfere with further reassembly or disassembly.


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## Wgiles (May 16, 2022)

A couple more words about this while it's fresh in my mind. The Hirose HR10A-7P-4S is a compatible connector, but it's not the one that AT uses. The AT connectors have a collet strain relief, while the Hirose uses a crimp sleeve and a tiny set screw. The set screw is almost guaranteed to drop from your grasp while you try to find an Allen wrench that fits it. When it does, it will translate to a different dimension and will not be found until the end of time. The unbranded Chinese compatible connectors will work, but may be a tight fit in the mating connector.


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