# Work Surface



## Edrick (Nov 4, 2010)

Hey,

I'm looking to get a new desk for a work surface. It'll be used for some electronics, electrical, plumbing, and general building / workshop things.

I was looking at this from U-Line and was wondering if you guys had any feedback?

60 x 30" Steel Top Packing Table H-1135-STEEL - Uline

I can't figure out the total distance from floor to table top surface. The legs its self are adjustable from 28-35" so is that just the leg part then the table can go higher?


----------



## cpf (Nov 4, 2010)

My read, since it's a "packing table" and all, is that the table surface is adjustable inside that range, so not what I'd describe as suitable for a work bench.


----------



## Edrick (Nov 4, 2010)

According to what I've been able to find after further research.

> On most benches, the working surface is somewhere between 33" and 36" high. If you're average height (between 5'9" and 6'0"), that's usually a comfortable height. But even a change of 1" up or down can make a big difference in how easy it is to work at the bench.



So it seems it'd be the right height.


----------



## WooferHound (Nov 4, 2010)

My workbench is 33 inches and I like it a lot, It might be a little better if it was a bit higher. Untill now I never knew how high it was but you guys made me go out and measure it.


----------



## ruinexplorer (Nov 5, 2010)

<tounge in cheek> How were you actually able to get an accurate measurement of your current work surface?

In my opinion, I prefer a wooden work surface.


----------



## cpf (Nov 5, 2010)

Don't have pictures of mine (old solid core door+heavy duty shelving units) now, but a wood surface is nice, even just for testing bare PCBs on it while taking stuff apart. Of course, dents and burns are a hazard then, but that's the price you pay.


----------



## jstroming (Nov 5, 2010)

I have 4 of the 92"x36" Composite packing tables from Uline, with Caster Kit. I also have 4 of the 48"x36" composite packing tables, which are awesome for moving around the shop. I use one for a drill press station, one for a swage kit/grommet setting station, and 2 for just general use/table space.

I LOVE them. I really love the fact that you can install your own electrics in each of the legs. Makes repairing things and using power tools VERY easy.

Here is an image of 2 of the larger ones in use in my old warehouse (circa 2007):


----------



## Edrick (Nov 5, 2010)

What do you think of the Composite material vs. say the Metal top.


----------



## jstroming (Nov 5, 2010)

Theres a broadcast video rental company directly underneath my offices in NYC (there on floor 8, I'm 9), and they have the steel tables. Well, they would leave those huge camera batteries on the steel table overnight. I came in one morning to find my doors busted in and the fire department poking around. Apparently the steel table shorted the battery terminals, and it caused a fire. They lost 3 Sony HD cameras, and a bunch of damage to tables, chairs, etc around it.

After that incident I decided to purchase composite tops HAHA.

What I like about the composite tops is that although they get scuffed and scratched, it's "composite" surface means the scratches blend in really well. A solid surface that gets scratched is very noticeable.

Along those lines, If you notice in the picture, I also use (and swear by) Uline's storage bins. I standardized all my bins to colors...The clear bins mounted to wall are Akro Mills storage organizers (NOT from Uline, I have about 30 of those organizers now), these hold the smallest parts. Then Blue (Small), Red (Medium), and Grey (Large, not in picture). I also use there magnum hoppers (Extra large blue), which are great for clamps, cheeseboros, steel, etc. Those are all from Uline. I Love ULINE!


----------



## Edrick (Nov 5, 2010)

ULine foolishly gave me a credit line with them when I opened the account (somewhat sarcastic). I signed up thinking that if I had selected the Net30 Option they would request more information from me and use my personal credit to give me a credit line. But instead apparently it went on my business credit, which is the first line of credit I've received since I just registered as an LLC a few months ago. So now I have the great urge to purchase storage solutions from ULine and man I don't know about the rest of you but one of the things that gets me going is a product catalog for purchasing business goods. I've ordered the wall mount bin holder they have along with the standard assortment of 24 bins, plus 12 of the giganto plastic stacking bins they have, and some medium sized bins to also hang on the wall.

http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-1492/Bin-Organizers/36-x-19-Wall-Mount-Panel-Rack
http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail...lue-Plastic-Stackable-Bins?FromOrderHistory=Y
http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail...lue-Plastic-Stackable-Bins?FromOrderHistory=Y

and in fact I saw they had GOJO Soap so I bought a gallon of that which has now prompted me to install a work sink. 

http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail...ral-Original-Gallon-Pumice?FromOrderHistory=Y

So next time I'm at Lowes i'll be picking up a sink.


----------



## gafftapegreenia (Nov 5, 2010)

I too greatly prefer wood/composite tops. I find them more comfortable to work on.


----------



## Edrick (Nov 5, 2010)

Just got these in from ULine


----------



## mstaylor (Nov 5, 2010)

As to table tops, metal if I am welding, wood for anything else.


----------



## Pie4Weebl (Nov 6, 2010)

+1 on the composite, use them at work and love them.


----------



## Anvilx (Nov 6, 2010)

How about a roubo styled bench. Here is the Lie-Nielsen version. The top looks a bit thin to me.

Chris Shwartz has a fabulous book on building workbenches Workbenches: From Design And Theory To Construction And Use that I highly recommend, where he shows how to build this bench and traditional English workbench.


----------



## TimmyP1955 (Nov 20, 2010)

I put nubby rubber floor mats on my benches. Cushions drops, no scratches from scoots, and clippings and swarf call beneath the surface.


----------



## shiben (Dec 5, 2010)

Anvilx said:


> How about a roubo styled bench. Here is the Lie-Nielsen version. The top looks a bit thin to me.
> 
> Chris Shwartz has a fabulous book on building workbenches Workbenches: From Design And Theory To Construction And Use that I highly recommend, where he shows how to build this bench and traditional English workbench.


 
Those are my favorite types of workbenches. They can be a great project, and a good way to learn about woodworking. I know a guy who has 4, all home built, all custom designed for his needs. Absolutely lovely, really effective for doing woodwork. The metal benches leave something to be desired, however. Speaking of which, anyone have any ideas for a metal working bench? We dont have one in our shop currently, but we need some welding projects, so we will be making a metal working bench, an electrics workbox type thing, and a crafts bench on wheels for building smaller things. For the metalworking bench, I have seen a metal chopping station set up like a miter station, but is that the best idea, or is it better to have the saw in the middle of a larger table?


----------



## mstaylor (Dec 6, 2010)

As far as a metal cutting station I wouldn't put it on the same table that I was welding on. The metal chop saw can be set up as any similar wood station and be either wood or metal. To be honest I would have a tendency to top it with a laminate or teflon type surface. It would make moving material much easier and cleanup a cinch. As a welding table the last one I built we made a 6ft square table, a screw clamp on each corner and 1/4 inch plate top. This allows a good surface to work on that you can also use to tack your work in place.


----------



## Footer (Dec 6, 2010)

mstaylor said:


> As far as a metal cutting station I wouldn't put it on the same table that I was welding on. The metal chop saw can be set up as any similar wood station and be either wood or metal. To be honest I would have a tendency to top it with a laminate or teflon type surface. It would make moving material much easier and cleanup a cinch. As a welding table the last one I built we made a 6ft square table, a screw clamp on each corner and 1/4 inch plate top. This allows a good surface to work on that you can also use to tack your work in place.



I actually go the exact opposite. Unless I am doing torch welding/cutting... its wood tables all the way. I usually like my welding table to be at least 6' wide by 24' long. Standard 2x4 construction with 3/4" OSB top. Over the OSB goes 1/4" maso. This allow you to place jig blocks on the table to hold things in place and to easily make duplicate pieces. Usually I can get 3 or 4 shows out of a sheet of maso. 







Yes, its the Yalie way to weld, but it works for me.


----------



## DiscoBoxer (Dec 6, 2010)

I prefer wood tops. I would probably like the composite as well but have not used them. I do all projects on them (except heavy welding or torching). For working on electronics, I like to minimize the potentials for shorts to occur.....and shock. This would be my main reason for not using a metal surface. My 2nd reason is that I work on small pyrotechnic projects and static needs to be controlled along with non-sparking materials.

I like to do wood work, so I built my own. I got lucky when a bowling ally closed a few years back and got my hands on big chunks of their old lanes. They are very strong and when the wear & tear gets to be too much, I sand them down and refinish. I put great effot into having the flatest possible surface for the wood but its certainly not ultra precise for measurement either.


----------



## mstaylor (Dec 6, 2010)

Footer said:


> I actually go the exact opposite. Unless I am doing torch welding/cutting... its wood tables all the way. I usually like my welding table to be at least 6' wide by 24' long. Standard 2x4 construction with 3/4" OSB top. Over the OSB goes 1/4" maso. This allow you to place jig blocks on the table to hold things in place and to easily make duplicate pieces. Usually I can get 3 or 4 shows out of a sheet of maso.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



The reason I use all metal for a welding area is you can attach the ground low, out of the way and weld anywhere on the table.


----------



## Kelite (Dec 6, 2010)

DiscoBoxer said:


> I like to do wood work, so I built my own. I got lucky when a bowling ally closed a few years back and got my hands on big chunks of their old lanes. They are very strong and when the wear & tear gets to be too much, I sand them down and refinish.


 
When we bought our old farmhouse (with an assortment of 'extra' buildings), a large work bench made from a bowling alley lane was found in what we call the workshop. This rather beefy bench is strong and collects quite a few odds & ends that really should go elsewhere. But is sure made a _*nice*_ bench!


----------



## DiscoBoxer (Dec 7, 2010)

Haha, unfortunately for me it doesn't matter what type of material the bench is made out of or if it's a chair or another flat surface, I can't seem to keep the spaces clear either.

I use similar boxes to the uline ones and cabinets, etc, but there is never enough space. Maybe I can store some of my stuff in one of your old "extra buildings", LOL!


----------



## Kelite (Dec 7, 2010)

Just be sure you make friends with our two dogs first!

(two BIG dogs!)



:shock:


----------



## 65535 (Feb 18, 2011)

I just make my own, wood all the way, the ones I use now are just a ply top, masonite would be my next choice, but sometimes ply is best when you need to temp screw into it, masonite gets torn up.


----------



## erichart (Feb 18, 2011)

Our shop has all wood benches. I topped them with masonite a year or two ago because we snagged a bunch of used pieces from the scene shop when they were replacing a deck. I too prefer being able to attach jig blocks when I'm welding, but I also like using a metal surface when welding smaller pieces where there's no place to attach the ground (or the ground will get in the way). For those instances, I keep a couple of pieces of plate steel around that I can put on top of the bench. Instant welding table!


----------



## Kelite (Feb 18, 2011)

Absolutely, Eric. Small pieces of steel and a ground that gets in the way can become frustrating, not to mention unsafe. A plate of steel or two to attach a ground and provide a flat burn-proof surface is the way to go. 
Depending upon the size and shape of the workpiece, I've found these to be a godsend Protractor - Welding Link and Clamp - Supplies - Power Tools & Metalworking : Grainger Industrial Supply


----------



## len (Feb 18, 2011)

Built my own. Legs are 4 x 4, with a 3/4" plywood surface and then masonite on top. It's fine for most everyday stuff. It's a couple inches too short. If I ever get bored, new legs might be added.


----------



## Kelite (Feb 18, 2011)

Len, is it worth the effort in the short-run to cut 2x6 'foot pads' to place beneath the feet, or would this be a bad idea?


----------



## len (Feb 18, 2011)

Kelite said:


> Len, is it worth the effort in the short-run to cut 2x6 'foot pads' to place beneath the feet, or would this be a bad idea?



Thot of that. Might make it wobbly. It's for another day.


----------

