# Extra deep sockets/hollow extension



## erosing (Jul 28, 2010)

I was feeding some nuts onto a 18" threaded rod last night and came to the realization after the third time doing it that someone must have a better way to do it. I was using a combination of my impact driver for the first 2" and my nut drivers as far as I could, but it was slow and annoying. 

My nut drivers are only 3" shafts and I know Klien (I'm sure others do too) makes 6" shaft nut drivers. So that is a possibility, though an expensive one. 

I went searching for a hollow socket extension shaft and found the patents for a few and one made by gearwrench, I think (seems it only works with their drive system). I also went looking for some really deep sockets but didn't turn up much (special name I'm missing, maybe). I was wondering if anyone knows of either product that works with a standard drive.

If not anyone have any tricks for running nuts down a threaded rod fast? I know there is a trick using the chuck of a drill to guide it down. I also just stuck the rod into my chuck for the first two nuts but that only worked until the rod was in the piece, it's an annoying little problem.

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## ajb (Jul 28, 2010)

I've taken two sockets and wedged them into the ends of an appropriate length of PVC in the past. One drive-end in to attach to a socket drive adapter in a drill, the other drive-end out to interface with the nut. Downside is you're limited to a certain number of combinations of pie size and socket sizes/wall thicknesses, although you might be able to make more combos work by slotting the ends of the pipe and applying a hose clamp. And you may have to drill out the socket for the threaded rod to clear through.

I keep thinking about building a friction-drive drill attachment for this purpose (just a high friction drive tire with a shaft that can chuck into a drill and a couple guide plates), but haven't yet got 'round to it.


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## erosing (Jul 28, 2010)

The PVC Idea isn't a bad idea, off to go pick some up, certainly would work as a temporary solution.

I had the thought to buy a cheaper set of hollow shaft nut drivers and just cut the handle off so I could stick it in my chuck, but that seems silly still.


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## joeboo46 (Jul 28, 2010)

Kobalt 1/4" and 3/8" Thru Ratchet Set: 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_68107-1074-22399_0_?productId=1097399&Ntt=kobalt+thru+ratchet&Ntk=i_products&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?newSearch=true$Ntt=kobalt%20thru%20ratchet$y=0$x=0

Maybe? I have a set, use it on threaded rod all the time it's only $60

Unless you're looking for something more universal to which I have no answer.


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## dramatech (Jul 29, 2010)

The approach of the PVC and two sockets is very similar to what we do to put nuts on the drive shaft of automobile transmissions.
I help out at a shop that builds race cars. I fabricate the harnesses, but also do some transmission rebuilds from time to time.
We made long sockets as describe in the post about the PVC, the only difference is that we used metal pipe and welded the sockets to the pipe. It is a bit of work, but if it is something that you use a lot, having such a device will hold up much longer and will allow you to apply some real torque when the nut reaches it's end position.


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## derekleffew (Jul 29, 2010)

Ratcheting box wrench?


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## DuckJordan (Jul 29, 2010)

my question is why would you need to move it so far down the threads that you can't use a regular socket on them. Its only a few times i've ever needed to do that and it wasn't often enough to make a special device for it. why not use a smaller bolt?


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## erosing (Jul 29, 2010)

derekleffew said:


> Ratcheting box wrench?



Tried it, not enough friction for the rachet to bite, also kept slipping off the nut. 

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## erosing (Jul 29, 2010)

DuckJordan said:


> my question is why would you need to move it so far down the threads that you can't use a regular socket on them. Its only a few times i've ever needed to do that and it wasn't often enough to make a special device for it. why not use a smaller bolt?


 
It's 16 nuts on an 18" threaded rod, 2 on each end, 2 each 1/4 way, 2 just off center each side, and 2 on each side between off center and 1/4 way nuts. Nuts are holding spacers and this is the small version, next one is twice as long, can't use a shorter thing. To note it's not a bolt, just nuts on threaded rod no head/cap. 

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## dbthetd (Jul 29, 2010)

vice grip wrench won't slip off the nut

or

chuck the rod in the drill - hold the nut still and spin the rod

give me a mintue I'll think of something even stupider


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## erosing (Apr 9, 2011)

Found this when I was at the store today, XL PASS-THRU SYSTEM > GearRatchet™ > | GearWrench™ took a look at it and after reading some reviews, I'm pretty sure I'll be going back to pick up a set and try it out. So, for anybody else with this problem in the future, this might be a good option considering price v. time.

FWIW, Kobalt makes (made) a similar ratchet as well, haven't heard much about (or even seen it) though.


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## josh88 (Apr 10, 2011)

May be understanding you wrong but this is what we did in our shop. When putting things into tension with the threaded rods running up a square post or what have you, we would chuck the rod right into a drill and then throw a c wrench onto the nut. It was the easiest fastest way for us to get a nut threaded down the length of rod. and then once it was closer to compression just finish it off by hand. We never had any problems with the drills marring the threads or anything like that. it was really beneficial for us because we were doing it over the course of about 3 feet with a couple of compression spots. so in short we spun the rod and held the nut instead of trying to spin the nut.


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## Ngregory (Apr 11, 2011)

have you tried putting the thread rod in the drill,spinning the rod instead of the nut?


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## erosing (Apr 11, 2011)

Ngregory said:


> have you tried putting the thread rod in the drill,spinning the rod instead of the nut?




josh88 said:


> May be understanding you wrong but this is what we did in our shop. When putting things into tension with the threaded rods running up a square post or what have you, we would chuck the rod right into a drill and then throw a c wrench onto the nut. It was the easiest fastest way for us to get a nut threaded down the length of rod. and then once it was closer to compression just finish it off by hand. We never had any problems with the drills marring the threads or anything like that. it was really beneficial for us because we were doing it over the course of about 3 feet with a couple of compression spots. so in short we spun the rod and held the nut instead of trying to spin the nut.


 
Yes, to both of you. That is what I did when I had the problem originally, but it still only worked to spin the threaded rod for about a quarter of the project the way I _innefficiently_ designed it to assemble. But a super deep socket, pass-thru ratchet, or custom deep pvc based socket, would have been nice at the time, even those wouldn't have solved all the problems though.


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