# ETA Lighting Questions Answered



## roscoethedog (Oct 1, 2010)

I have A Fair amount of information or knowledge regarding some of the ETA lighting controllers and dimmer packs. If you have questions let me know.


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## jack63ss (Mar 19, 2011)

RoscoeTheDog,
I have a 1612 board that "was" working, until I tried to clean it.  I was having an intermittent contact problem, so I tried to clean it with contact cleaner and now I get no response on any channel. Do you have any technical info (wiring, circuit, etc.) I could use to try to troubleshoot the problem ? 
Woof,
Jack


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## jack63ss (Mar 19, 2011)

OR, know anyone who might be able to repair it ?


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## jack63ss (Mar 19, 2011)

I think I found what I need. This site has a bunch of ETA stuff online, including schematics. 
Index of /manuals/STARINMANUALS/ETA/Archive.

But if you do know anyone who could fix it PLEASE let me know, because I am not THAT good.


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## bluesman (Apr 10, 2011)

roscoethedog said:


> I have A Fair amount of information or knowledge regarding some of the ETA lighting controllers and dimmer packs. If you have questions let me know.


 I just picked up an ESA 1234 controller and an ESA 1253 dimmer pack. Looking for a manual for the 1234. It came with one cable connecting lights bank 1-4. Would like another cable to connect 5-8. Also, not sure where to plug the second cable in on the dimmer pack, I have two connections on the back, one says in, the other says out. Any information you can give me would be great
Tom Bauer


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## JCarroll (Jan 16, 2012)

*ETA Dimmer Packs*

I'm sourcing some dimmer packs for a local non profit theatre, and I came across a bunch of ETA 1856, 8 channel 2.4kw dimmer packs. I was thinking of going with around 40 channels of these, and it would also come with a power distro, and ETC Response 96 out to get our DMX signal to the analog one that the dimmers take. Would this all be worthwhile for around $600? Installation would be provided as well.

My second question involves how much power would be required. What I've figured from my basic fuzzy math is that I would need 320 amps/phase... Thats not really feasible in this older building. I think the maximum I would be able to get away with would probably be at most 200 amps/phase.

Thanks for any responses


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## derekleffew (Jan 16, 2012)

*Re: ETA Dimmer Packs*

Hmmm, these perhaps?



1. That seems like a good price, but be aware these packs haven't been made since the late 1980s. ETA, originally of Twinsburg, OH is still around (www.etasys.com), but no longer in the stage lighting business and now makes only power conditioning equipment. During their heyday, their products were comparable in quality and price to today's Leprecon, NSI, Lightronics products. Search on here--we've discussed them before. As with any gear that old, I hope you know a good electronics repair technician, one capable of troubleshooting triac circuits without a schematic.

2. Power required is based on the connected LOAD, not on the dimmer's faceplate rating.* 
If you put one 100W lamp on each of the 40x2.4kW dimmers, you'd need ~11A per leg on a Three-phase, four-wire plus ground service. At the other end of the extreme, if you loaded each dimmer with 2400W (which is nearly impossible to do given standard stage lamp wattages), you'd need (40*2400)/120/3=266.67A per leg. A 200A service is likely quite adequate. For simplicity's sake, I'd buy as many dimmer packs as the distro will allow (and perhaps one spare to use as parts).


*See the collaborative article Dimmer feeds--How much power is enough? - ControlBooth .


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## JD (Jan 16, 2012)

*Re: ETA Dimmer Packs*

Power calculations have more to do with expected load then the numeric number of dimmers at X wattage. 

Briefly: A 200 amp 3 phase source should give you 57k of available load. ((200 x 3) X 0.8) X 120 = 57.6 kw

There is really more to load calculation then the brief sentence above. It would be wise to get some professional consolation on this.

EDIT:
Looks like Derek beat me again! Don't you ever sleep or eat?


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## derekleffew (Jan 17, 2012)

*Re: ETA Dimmer Packs*


JD said:


> ...Briefly: A 200 amp 3 phase source should give you 57k of available load. ((200 x 3) *X 0.8*) X 120 = 57.6 kw ...


Where does the "X 0.8" derating factor come from?


JD said:


> Don't you ever sleep or eat?


Not when there's a CB-er in need of assistance.
_When Polly's in trouble, I am not slow,
For it's hip-hip-hip and AWAY I GO!!! _


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## JohnD (Jan 17, 2012)

*Re: ETA Dimmer Packs*


JD said:


> It would be wise to get some professional consolation on this.


Ya' know, I really hate to be one of those whiney forum posters who get hung up on the wrong use of words and typos.
Like theatre techs who are enraged "Its not a bulb its a *LAMP,* dang it."
Or food service people, "Its not a stove, its a *RANGE"*
In this case I wonder if the OP needs or wants *Consolation (*there, there, it will be all right)
Perhaps a consultation if more in order. 
OK, I wasn't being snarky to JD, I just got a kick out of the post. 
I am wondering, what kind of shape are these dimmer packs in, full of cobwebs and gunk?


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## DavidNorth (Jan 17, 2012)

*Re: ETA Dimmer Packs*


derekleffew said:


> Where does the "X 0.8" derating factor come from?


 
Well, since you've asked, most circuit breakers are thermal-magnetic types and are rated for 80% continuous load and 100% non-continuous load. You can get electronic feed breakers that are 100% rated but they are of course more expensive.

A continuous load is defined as being on for three or more hours. You use both the continuous load at 100% plus the non-continuous load at 125% to determine breaker size. On feed breakers for lighting systems, the safe bet calculation is to use 80% of the breaker rating. Of course, as stated above, diversity calculations based on real anticipated load useage gives you by far more useable system current.

David


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## derekleffew (Jan 17, 2012)

*Re: ETA Dimmer Packs*

Somewhat ironic, JohnD correcting JD?

JohnD said:


> ...Like theatre techs who are enraged "It*'*s not a bulb*,* it*'*s a *LAMP,* dang it."
> Or food service people, "It*'*s not a stove, it*'*s a *RANGE**.*"
> ... Perhaps a consultation *if* more in order. ...


Internet rule #147 on being a Grammar Nazi: When correcting someone on a public forum, one is certain to have a misspelling, error, or typo (or multiple instances thereof) in one's post.
"Perhaps a consultation *is* more in order." (JD's tongue slip was more funnier, however.)
-----
Thanks DavidNorth. I wanted to hear JD say it, if for no other reason than to [-]argue with[/-] debate him. I would have taken the position that the dimming system's load would not be considered a continuous load, as there's virtually zero chance that ALL fixtures will be at 100% ever, let alone for more than three hours. He might have countered with, "Yes it is too a continuous load." I would have then asked, "How do you reconcile that the NEC allows up to, I believe it is a maximum of, thirteen duplex Edison (5-15) receptacles on a 120V 20A circuit in a residence?" Potential of (13x15=)195A on a circuit with an OPD of 20? To make up for the fact that the garbage disposal, refrigerator, dishwasher, and microwave must each have its own 20A circuit?
Then STEVETERRY would chime in, telling up to stop this nonsense bickering or he would send us to bed without any supper. Then we'd call child protective services and all end up on the Dr. Phil show. ...

In light of this (get it? _light_ of this?), I'm reminded of what was perhaps a fatal flaw in the 1981 Light Palette V4J: When the console crashed, all dimmers would "float to full" over about five seconds. If one had a severely derated service, bad news for the OCPD.


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## JohnD (Jan 17, 2012)

*Re: ETA Dimmer Packs*


derekleffew said:


> Somewhat ironic, JohnD correcting JD?
> 
> Internet rule #147 on being a Grammar Nazi: When correcting someone on a public forum, one is certain to have a misspelling, error, or typo (or multiple instances thereof) in one's post.
> "Perhaps a consultation *is* more in order." (JD's tongue slip was more funnier.


Oh Wow, is my face red(A8310 Cherry Lewis). I really should learn to zip it, then gaff tape it. I have noticed that newspapers and book publishers seem to no longer proof read and rely on spellcheck.


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## DavidNorth (Jan 17, 2012)

*Re: ETA Dimmer Packs*


derekleffew said:


> Thanks DavidNorth. I wanted to hear JD say it, if for no other reason than to [-]argue with[/-] debate him. I would have taken the position that the dimming system's load would not be considered a continuous load, as there's virtually zero chance that ALL fixtures will be at 100% ever, let alone for more than three hours. He might have countered with, "Yes it is too a continuous load." I would have then asked, "How do you reconcile that the NEC allows up to, I believe it is a maximum of, thirteen duplex Edison (5-15) receptacles on a 120V 20A circuit in a residence?" Potential of (13x15=)195A on a circuit with an OPD of 20? To make up for the fact that the garbage disposal, refrigerator, dishwasher, and microwave must each have its own 20A circuit?
> Then STEVETERRY would chime in, telling up to stop this nonsense bickering or he would send us to bed without any supper. Then we'd call child protective services and all end up on the Dr. Phil show. ...


 
Bummer, that would have been fun. Sorry for screwing it up.


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## JD (Jan 17, 2012)

*Re: ETA Dimmer Packs*

This thread has become quite amusing


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## chausman (Jan 17, 2012)

JD said:


> This thread has become quite confusing


 
fixed it for you. At least on Tapatalk...so many BBCode tags not rendering...


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## JCarroll (Jan 18, 2012)

*Re: ETA Dimmer Packs*

As far as the condition of the dimmer packs, they're all pretty clean, and they do all work as they're supposed to. I trust the place where they are coming from and will be able to get a replacement pack if one starts to fail.


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## gmff (Feb 25, 2012)

*Old Dimmer Pack and Control Cord Question*

I had someone drop 4 of these dimmer packs on my door step along with a control board. I don't know what type of connection the control cable is or if it is still available and usable. I called the phone # that is on the pack and it is discontinued. Help would be great.


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## Clifford (Feb 25, 2012)

*Re: Old Dimmer Pack and Control Cord Question*

The connector appears to be a 6-pin DIN connector. From what I've seen searching for it, the cable may be difficult to source, and you may end up having to build your own if nobody else here knows where to find any. It might have another name that I'm not aware of that it's commonly retailed as though. Good luck!


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## VCTMike (Feb 25, 2012)

*Re: Old Dimmer Pack and Control Cord Question*

There is this letter letting people know they aren't in the lighting business anymore

http://www.etasys.com/PDF/ProdDiscont_8_29.pdf

But you might try and see if anyone there has some info:

ETA Systems
1601 Jack McKay Blvd ● Ennis, TX75119
Tel: 800-321-6699 ● Fax: 800-996-3821

Contact ETA Systems

and here is a thread that speaks of testing....

zmarchive.com psw-srf: 29414 Testing Older ETA Model 1251 Dimmer Packs?


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## dbrown (Feb 25, 2012)

*Re: Old Dimmer Pack and Control Cord Question*

i have two of them also they are old style analog 0-10 volts units. they still work in some cases for me i still have an analog system and just patched them into it. i email eta 5 or6 years ago and they sent me a circuit diagram for them with no problem. if you can get i can try to forward a copy to you


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## wavemaster447 (Feb 26, 2012)

*Re: Old Dimmer Pack and Control Cord Question*

I haven't worked with these packs, but running 0-10v systems over is easy enough. 
(Begin blind guessing - get the circut diagram before you try any of this!)
If you get a DMX-to-10v decoder (I use the ones from Northlight when I renovate old theaters)
then you could hopefully just do a 1-to-1 connection, either by jamming them into the plug, juryrigging a male plug, or opening it up and solder, and it may work. I renovated an old restaurant-intentioned controller that took this weird 12-pin control signal, but once I opened it up I saw the 0-10v controllers and was able to solder right to there, and it works like a charm. to get DMX control into the thing.


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## hasbeen (Aug 24, 2012)

*ETA 6 Pin Cables "Old School"*

Does anyone happen to have any of these old school ETA 6 Pin dimmer/control cables for sale? Or had any luck making your own? Thanks for the help folks and enjoy your day!


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## Les (Aug 24, 2012)

*Re: ETA 6 Pin Cables "Old School"*

This thread is kind of sad. So many unanswered questions! Is the connector in question a Cinch-Jones? If so, you should be able to buy the connector and wire (solder) it to the appropriate wire. Class 2 wiring should work as long as it has the appropriate amount of conductors and can carry at least 10VDC. Belden should have it. Pick the connector with care, while paying very close attention to horizontal vs vertical pins. 

Cabling: Belden - Sending All The Right Signals.

A good supplier for connectors is Mouser: Cinch Jones Connectors Jones Plugs & Sockets | Mouser
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
And though he is probably long gone, I'll feel better if I do this...


bluesman said:


> I just picked up an ESA 1234 controller and an ESA 1253 dimmer pack. Looking for a manual for the 1234. It came with one cable connecting lights bank 1-4. Would like another cable to connect 5-8. Also, not sure where to plug the second cable in on the dimmer pack, I have two connections on the back, one says in, the other says out. Any information you can give me would be great
> Tom Bauer



Dimmer packs connect from the *output* of the board to the *input* of the dimmer pack. If you are daisy-chaining dimmer packs, the second (or subsequent) dimmer packs will connect from the _output_ of the last pack to the _input_ of the next pack. Since this is likely analog, the next pack will mirror the last pack (you now have 2 packs running channels 1-4, etc). Connecting dimmer packs individually to the board's outputs will give you more channels until you reach capacity (fill all the outputs). Just remember that the board "talks" (output) and the dimmer packs "listen" (input).


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## derekleffew (Aug 24, 2012)

*Re: ETA 6 Pin Cables "Old School"*


Les said:


> ... Is the connector in question a Cinch-Jones? ...


No. As the drawing from this document.pdf indicates, I think it is a 6pin DIN, locking via screw collar, connector. 



As this picture of a similar console shows, it may not have been a locking connector. I thought it was, but can't remember for sure.


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## hasbeen (Aug 25, 2012)

*Re: ETA 6 Pin Cables "Old School"*


derekleffew said:


> No. As the drawing from this document.pdf indicates, I think it is a 6pin DIN, locking via screw collar, connector.
> 
> 
> As this picture of a similar console shows, it may not have been a locking connector. I thought it was, but can't remember for sure.




Thanks for the help so far. Yes, this is the connector in question.


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## jeffellison (Nov 11, 2012)

*Controlling 1-10v. Dimmers through an NSI DeMultipler with a myDMX 2.0 controller*

I want to use my laptop to control my ETA 4 Channel Dimmer Packs ,,, I also have 16 RGB's 

Right now , I have to use a Chauvet board to run the RGB's and I have a NSI programmable Demultiplexer DMX 16 for the pars. I am interested in using American Dj's myDMX to 
control all of my lighting. 
The techs at American Dj say it should not be a problem, but I have read conflicting information about the amount of current used to power of the NSI and the power used in DMX lighting I want to use my laptop to control my ETA 4 Channel Dimmer Packs ,,, I also have 16 RGB's 

Right now , I have to use a Chauvet board to run the RGB's and I have a NSI programmable Demultiplexer DMX 16 for the pars. I am interested in using American Dj's myDMX to 
control all of my lighting. 
The techs at American Dj say it should not be a problem, but I have read conflicting information about the amount of current used to power of the NSI and the power used in DMX lighting 
may cause a problem??? 
Is this true ?? Is there a difference ?? Aren't all 3 pin mic cables the same ??
may cause a problem??? 
Is this true ?? Is there a difference ?? Aren't all 3 pin mic cables the same ??


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## IAmLumenator (Nov 11, 2012)

*Re: Controlling 1-10v. Dimmers through an NSI DeMultipler with a myDMX 2.0 controller*

DMX is a data signal line (that yes, is sometimes run over 3 pin XLR microphone cables). There is no real 'power' to speak of there, it's just enough (think less than a flashlight) of current. Your DMX devices (including your dimmer pack) will all connect to the mains power as well as have the DMX connections.

In the dimmer pack, for example, the power comes in through the feed, passes through a circuit that applies a curve (the curve is determined by DMX input), then passes it back out (generally to Edison-style outlets numbered 1-4). The DMX signal is electrically isolated from the actual mains.

If you've ever worked with computers, picture how much current you would expect an ethernet/network cable to carry...the computers themselves are powered from the mains.


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## avkid (Nov 11, 2012)

*Re: Controlling 1-10v. Dimmers through an NSI DeMultipler with a myDMX 2.0 controller*

I'm a little confused here, NSI DMX 16 is not a controller.


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## jeffellison (Nov 11, 2012)

*Controlling 1-10v. ETA Dimmer through an NSI DeMultipler with a myDMX 2.0 controller*

I want to use my laptop to control my ETA 4 Channel Dimmer Packs ,,, I also have 16 RGB's 

Right now , I have to use a Chauvet board to run the RGB's and I have a NSI programmable Demultiplexer DMX 16 for the pars. I am interested in using American Dj's myDMX to 
control all of my lighting. 
The techs at American Dj say it should not be a problem, but I have read conflicting information about the amount of current used to power of the NSI and the power used in DMX lighting 
may cause a problem??? 
Is this true ?? Is there a difference ?? Aren't all 3 pin mic cables the same ??


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## jeffellison (Nov 11, 2012)

*Re: Controlling 1-10v. Dimmers through an NSI DeMultipler with a myDMX 2.0 controller*

The DMX Demultiplexer splits a 3 pin DMX signal into 16 separate channels to control the faders on 4 / 4 channel ETA dimmer packs.. The controller we used was a Nova Board


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## avkid (Nov 11, 2012)

*Re: Controlling 1-10v. Dimmers through an NSI DeMultipler with a myDMX 2.0 controller*

The DMX 16 is a multiplex device, not DMX.
You would need to either add a DMX to MPX converter or eliminate the multiplex entirely and use a DMX to 1-10v converter.
These can run from $150 in a kit to upwards of $1000 for a high end unit.


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## JFR (Apr 17, 2013)

*ETA Professional Dimmer Pack Model 1662*

I am looking for a manual for the ETA Professional Dimmer Pack Model 1662.


I have 3 of these packs in my black box, no paperwork on them, and dimmer 3 in one of the packs isn't working. Does anyone have experience repairing these dimmers? 

I appreciate any help or advice.
Thanks.


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## Andy Walsh (Jun 5, 2016)

roscoethedog said:


> I have A Fair amount of information or knowledge regarding some of the ETA lighting controllers and dimmer packs. If you have questions let me know.


I have 2 625 ETA Dimmer Packs...I can't find schematics for them...They are in need of triacs...The part numbers have been wiped off the triacs....These units have 6 20 amp circuits...Any help appricated 

roscoethedog said:


> I have A Fair amount of information or knowledge regarding some of the ETA lighting controllers and dimmer packs. If you have questions let me know.


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## Jim Grolemund (Dec 19, 2016)

roscoethedog said:


> I have A Fair amount of information or knowledge regarding some of the ETA lighting controllers and dimmer packs. If you have questions let me know.


I acquired an ETA Classic 231 foot controller with two foot (canopy) switches missing. Although the leads were clipped, I can trace the color leads that go to the one solder lug on the switches. The other lugs have a black wire jumpered from switch to switch but I cannot identify where it may have been terminated. I do see a new ring tongue for the ground wire. Since this is obviously not factory I’m suspecting that the black wire terminated as ground there. If you have a schemo, may I have a copy? If you do have a copy but not willing to share it, can you confirm my grounding suspicion?


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## Andy Walsh (Dec 20, 2016)

I have a pair of ETA 625's...I need Opto Couplers and Triacs...The product numbers have been wiped off the components...Does anyone know the numbers and/or where I can purchase them? I am not able the find the schematics either, so I am looking for them too...


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## Jim Grolemund (Dec 20, 2016)

Andy Walsh said:


> I have a pair of ETA 625's...I need Opto Couplers and Triacs...The product numbers have been wiped off the components...Does anyone know the numbers and/or where I can purchase them? I am not able the find the schematics either, so I am looking for them too...



Contact Jim Sidney at this url http://www.gourmetpa.com/. He used to service ETA products as well as build custom dimmer packs. Several years ago they had a flood and their ETA library is gone. However, he's a pretty sharp guy and may be able to pull the info you seek from his brainiac.


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## Asabob (Dec 21, 2016)

There is a place in Atlanta called ack radio they have everything that will fix a eta dimmer or console. Just don't ask them how..


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## Jim Grolemund (Dec 21, 2016)

Jim Grolemund said:


> I acquired an ETA Classic 231 foot controller with two foot (canopy) switches missing. Although the leads were clipped, I can trace the color leads that go to the one solder lug on the switches. The other lugs have a black wire jumpered from switch to switch but I cannot identify where it may have been terminated. I do see a new ring tongue for the ground wire. Since this is obviously not factory I’m suspecting that the black wire terminated as ground there. If you have a schemo, may I have a copy? If you do have a copy but not willing to share it, can you confirm my grounding suspicion?




I know I'm replying to myself but I'm putting this info here to possibly help someone else out.....6 pin cables for the old ETA's are impossible to find. So, I have set out on a quest to recreate two 50' cables using the following resources: One American DJ cable assembly AC5PDMX100 5-pin from HIFI Sound Connection in Nixa Missouri - $53; and Four 6 Pin Metal male Solder Connectors #1749 from Show Me Cables in Chesterfield, MO, $17. Cut the cable in half, clip the two 5 pin connectors. For my system I only need four conductors so I'll choose the ones I want out of the 5 and solder up the connectors. This cable is shielded but I don't need shielded cables since I'm not transmitting data so I'll clip it back even with the cable jacket. Note: there is a dimensional conflict in that the cable OD is .295" and the connector is good up to 7mm\.275". I'm guessing that a little silicone grease will resolve that. I'll let you know how it works out.


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