# How to control multiple projectors (power on/off)



## Wendell (Apr 17, 2011)

We have a new Epson projector on our church ceiling. We are going to install a second projector. We would like to have another Epson like the one we have, but I understand Epson uses the same signal for all projectors. Sometimes we only want one projector on, so we want to control them individually (without spending a fortune). Is there a way, or do we buy a different brand of projector?


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## sk8rsdad (Apr 17, 2011)

Could you provide a model number or possibly a link to the manuals for the exact projector you have?


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## metti (Apr 17, 2011)

Assuming you have remotes for them, use a wired IR transmitter/sensor combo. Wire one from FOH and tape the transmitter over the sensor on the projector. Then just point the remote at the right sensor at FOH to control the projector you want to control. Shouldn't be too expensive and is pretty easy to do since you already have a way to put in cable from FOH to the projectors seeing as the video cable gets there somehow. Some projectors have serial or network based on/off control but I'm guessing these don't if you're asking this question.


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## derekleffew (Apr 17, 2011)

metti, is this Xantech Infrared Over Coax Injector - INJ94 - Smarthome the type of IR-over-copper device you had in mind? I've seen similar devices used, but am not sure of the make/model.

I've also seen paper towel tubes attached to receiver's "eyes" to limit the range, with varying degrees of success.


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## metti (Apr 18, 2011)

derekleffew said:


> is this Xantech Infrared Over Coax Injector - INJ94 - Smarthome the type of IR-over-copper device you had in mind?



Bingo. That one is actually cheaper and better seeming then some of the ones I have seen. Full disclosure: I have never actually done this. The (several) times I have worked with multiple inaccessible projectors they were used on shows, not installed permanently, and they had either had network power control or serial power control that we used.


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## ruinexplorer (Apr 18, 2011)

It is difficult to say since we don't know which model projector you have. Some projectors have a mini-TRS jack that you can make an extension cable to run from the remote to the projector, bypassing the IR. With this set-up, you would just run two cables, one connected to each projector, and plug the remote into whichever projector that you wanted to control. Some projectors also have an IR sensor on both the front and the back of the projector. If this is the case, you can either disable the front or the back (through the menu or with tape over the sensor) and then stand on the appropriate side, depending on which projector you wanted to control at the time. I assume that neither of these models has network capabilities, otherwise that would be another option.

Please share the model number of the projector(s) and we can help you better.


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## cpf (Apr 18, 2011)

It might just be me, but I'm finding that lots of new mid-range consumer projectors are coming with some sort of web interface, so there still might be hope on that front.


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## sk8rsdad (Apr 18, 2011)

The reason I was asking for the model was to see if there was a network or serial protocol that could be used. Our Panasonic's have a web interface as well as PjLink, which makes triggering them from QLab or our Ion a breeze.


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## Wendell (Apr 18, 2011)

sk8rsdad said:


> Could you provide a model number or possibly a link to the manuals for the exact projector you have?


 We have an Epson EX7200 on a 130' HDMI cable with a built in amplifier. We plan to use an HDMI amplified splitter with a 15' cable to each projector. Sorry for the delayed response - all the info was at church. We're looking at an Epson Powerlite 1835 for the second projector.


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## sk8rsdad (Apr 18, 2011)

According to the Epson website, both models support something called EMP Link which would allow you to control most features of the EX7200 via an RS-232 and (I think) USB serial interface. There are also ethernet-to-serial and ethernet-to-usb devices, both wired and wireless that would provide reliable remote communications to these units.


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## Wendell (Apr 18, 2011)

metti said:


> Bingo. That one is actually cheaper and better seeming then some of the ones I have seen. Full disclosure: I have never actually done this. The (several) times I have worked with multiple inaccessible projectors they were used on shows, not installed permanently, and they had either had network power control or serial power control that we used.


 I'm not sure how the Xantac would work; we're not running coax. We have one laptop on one 130' amplified HDMI cable. We plan to use a powered (amplified) HDMI splitter with 15' cables to the two projectors. If we ran a coax for the Xantac it would not be connected to the equipment at either end; only to the Xantac boxes. I'd be concerned about picking up interference on a 130' ungrounded cable.


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## Wendell (Apr 18, 2011)

ruinexplorer said:


> It is difficult to say since we don't know which model projector you have. Some projectors have a mini-TRS jack that you can make an extension cable to run from the remote to the projector, bypassing the IR. With this set-up, you would just run two cables, one connected to each projector, and plug the remote into whichever projector that you wanted to control. Some projectors also have an IR sensor on both the front and the back of the projector. If this is the case, you can either disable the front or the back (through the menu or with tape over the sensor) and then stand on the appropriate side, depending on which projector you wanted to control at the time. I assume that neither of these models has network capabilities, otherwise that would be another option.
> 
> Please share the model number of the projector(s) and we can help you better.


 
We have an Epson EX7200; thinking of adding an Epson Powerlite1835. No IR bypass jack on the 7200. The projectors are hanging from a 14 foot ceiling. about 10' apart. We are controlling them from our laptop desk in the back of the sanctuary. We have line of sight to the front of one projector and the back of the other. One projects to the front of the sanctuary, the other to the rear. One is an old projector, but it's too old (low resoloution) to work with the new stuff. We won't be walking around them during church.


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## MarshallPope (Apr 18, 2011)

Wendell said:


> We have an Epson EX7200; thinking of adding an Epson Powerlite1835. No IR bypass jack on the 7200. The projectors are hanging from a 14 foot ceiling. about 10' apart. We are controlling them from our laptop desk in the back of the sanctuary. We have line of sight to the front of one projector and the back of the other. One projects to the front of the sanctuary, the other to the rear. One is an old projector, but it's too old (low resoloution) to work with the new stuff. We won't be walking around them during church.


 
May I ask why you need to be able to control the projectors during the service?


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## SHARYNF (Apr 19, 2011)

another cheap trick is to get some fiber optic plastic cable, just run it to the ir sensor and use your remote back at what ever point you need to control from

Sharyn


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## avkid (Apr 19, 2011)

Remotely controlled power outlets are a whole lot cheaper than anything else previously mentioned.


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## cpf (Apr 19, 2011)

avkid said:


> Remotely controlled power outlets are a whole lot cheaper than anything else previously mentioned.


 
But replacing the bulbs x times more often due to the lack of fan cooling might offset that initial savings.


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## avkid (Apr 19, 2011)

cpf said:


> But replacing the bulbs x times more often due to the lack of fan cooling might offset that initial savings.


 I am absolutely not saying to cut the power while projectors are hot.
More like choose which one you want to use and only turn that one on each day.


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## Wendell (Apr 20, 2011)

MarshallPope said:


> May I ask why you need to be able to control the projectors during the service?


We turn on the projector(s) for hymn lyrics or for a special presentation (missionary video, kids camp, etc.) then turn it off during the sermon. Or we may only turn the rear projector on for the singers up front who are doing special music (facing the congregation), and again turn it off for the sermon. I don't ever recall having the projector on for the entire service. This will be the first time we have had two projectors. We also run announcements prior to the worship service, then turn it off during prayer and worship. Once the sermon starts, the projector goes off and the screen goes up into the ceiling.


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## chausman (Apr 20, 2011)

Wendell said:


> We turn on the projector(s) for hymn lyrics or for a special presentation (missionary video, kids camp, etc.) then turn it off during the sermon. Or we may only turn the rear projector on for the singers up front who are doing special music (facing the congregation), and again turn it off for the sermon. I don't ever recall having the projector on for the entire service. This will be the first time we have had two projectors. We also run announcements prior to the worship service, then turn it off during prayer and worship. Once the sermon starts, the projector goes off and the screen goes up into the ceiling.


 
Would it be possible (and easier IMO) to just add a blank slide (assuming Keynote/Powerpoint) that is black and then have the screen go away? That's what I would do, instead of trying to control them independently.


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## Wendell (Apr 20, 2011)

cpf said:


> But replacing the bulbs x times more often due to the lack of fan cooling might offset that initial savings.


 We had been using a remote power on/off in the ceiling on our old projector, since it had no remote capability, and this was concern as it's fan usually stayed on after it was turned off. But the Epson documentation says this is not a problem to remove power while it's still on. I suppose we could use an X-10 type controller, since they have multiple control channels. But we're trying to keep it simple for the non-geek users, i.e. click on the projector you want and go. Remote power creates two decicions of which two buttons to punch each time you turn on a projector.


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## Wendell (Apr 20, 2011)

chausman said:


> Would it be possible (and easier IMO) to just add a blank slide (assuming Keynote/Powerpoint) that is black and then have the screen go away? That's what I would do, instead of trying to control them independently.


Both projectors will be on the same HDMI cable. A blank powerpoint screen would blank both projectors. As of now, we plan to always send the same image to both projectors. This is part of the "keep it simple..." objective. It will depend on the activity if we use the front, back or both.


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## Wendell (Apr 20, 2011)

Thanks for all your input. It's beginning to look like a different brand projector is about the only way to keep it simple. We felt Epson gives the most bang for the buck (as did several dealers), but part of Epson's economy is a single remote for all. I looked into the Epson EMP control, but I don't think that would keep it simple. We ran across a deal on a Hitachi CPX4011N, but I haven't researched the projector yet. The Epson EX7200 we just bought gives a decent picture in the daytime with the lights on, but it will become our rear projector, and we're going for a little more brightness for the main, (front) projector. Anyone familiar with the Hitachi?


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## Wendell (Apr 20, 2011)

SHARYNF said:


> another cheap trick is to get some fiber optic plastic cable, just run it to the ir sensor and use your remote back at what ever point you need to control from
> 
> Sharyn


Interesting idea! We'd need to run 2 130' cables, which is ok. I haven't worked with fibre optics (other than plugging in my TV/sound system). Can you shoot the remote right at the cable end, or do you need transmitters and recievers at the ends of the optic cable? I noticed some of the online stores I looked at showed lengths up to 30 meters. We need about 40 meters. And the remotes would probably have to be mounted in a fixed location, if I understand the concept correctly.


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## dmx (Apr 20, 2011)

I might be a little late to chime in, but if you want to selectively control a device that uses the same remote (TV, projector, etc), there's a quick cheap trick you can use on the low tech end: just take an old Pringles can, cut the bottom off the can, and point the remote through the can and at the projector you want to control. (the can will give you directional control over your remote). Not the most professional looking rig, but it has always worked for me, and doesn't cost a dime.


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## metti (Apr 21, 2011)

dmx said:


> Not the most professional looking rig, but it has always worked for me, and doesn't cost a dime.



Actually, Pringles are like $1.29 which is almost 13 dimes. Also, do the Sour Cream & Onion ones work better then the Originals. 

Seriously though, that's an interesting solution. I'm going to try it out.


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## tyler.martin (Apr 21, 2011)

Ive done something with Christie and Epson projectors, where you take the IR LED off the remote and solder on a piece of 2 wire cable, and then the same thing on the projector with either an xlr or DB9. but that involves disassembling a projector


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## SHARYNF (Apr 21, 2011)

Wendell said:


> Interesting idea! We'd need to run 2 130' cables, which is ok. I haven't worked with fibre optics (other than plugging in my TV/sound system). Can you shoot the remote right at the cable end, or do you need transmitters and recievers at the ends of the optic cable? I noticed some of the online stores I looked at showed lengths up to 30 meters. We need about 40 meters. And the remotes would probably have to be mounted in a fixed location, if I understand the concept correctly.


 
No need for transmitters and receivers, I just use a bit of silicone to get the end of the fiber so it shines on the IR Receiver, and on the remote side I have typically mounted the remote to some surface and then just silicone the fiber cable to the IR diode. If you cut the Fiber cable, you usually need to use an inexpensive hot knife to make the cut smooth. 

IF want to test it out and make sure your remote is powerful enough you probably can borrow a reel of fiber cable, and then just have the ends held to the both ends. I have found it works well, as the signals for IR control are very basic, and it is not like you are transmitting data. Sometimes you can find a deal on long lengths of fiber optic cable from a network (ebay)
Sharyn


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## Wendell (Apr 21, 2011)

Wendell said:


> We have a new Epson projector on our church ceiling. We are going to install a second projector. We would like to have another Epson like the one we have, but I understand Epson uses the same signal for all projectors. Sometimes we only want one projector on, so we want to control them individually (without spending a fortune). Is there a way, or do we buy a different brand of projector?


 
Thanks again for all your input. We haven't decided yet. We'll be discussing your ideas this week-end. Hopefully decide in the next week or so. Everything is still on the table, but we're leaning toward a non-Epson projector. This was my first time at Control Booth. It's definitely been interesting! Thanks.

I've been hungary for Pringles. I may buy a can and test my aim. (Probably only about 15 -20 degrees difference in line of sight between projectors). I'm on the fence between Sour Cream or Original. And I had never thought of hard wiring a wireless remote!


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## JereNet (Apr 21, 2011)

What's your budget like? If you're looking for simplicity and a way to protect your equipment from non-techie people, I've done many control systems with a simple computer, some software, and a touchscreen, all for about $1,000 depending on how many components there are. And it'll control everything from IR to RS-232 to network and beyond.


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## avkid (Apr 21, 2011)

Is a remote dowser out of the question?
City Theatrical 4160 Projector Dowser | Full Compass


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## headcrab (Apr 22, 2011)

metti said:


> Actually, Pringles are like $1.29 which is almost 13 dimes. Also, do the Sour Cream & Onion ones work better then the Originals.



We found them at Walmart last night for $1.

And the IR light reflects better off the barbeque flavoring more effectively than the original flavor, thus delivering even more power output!

Conceivably you could write off the can of Pringles as a business expense.


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## rawshark (Apr 25, 2011)

Most of the projectors I work with let you assign a specific ID # to the remote and to the projector through the menu...this means that you can configure projector-specific remote controls.
The Epson EX7200 does list "ID" under remote control features in the spec sheet so it might be worth checking out?

http://www.projectorcentral.com/pdf/projector_spec_5875.pdf


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## SHARYNF (Apr 25, 2011)

SSOOOO I decided to find the manual on line and go thru it

It looks like there is a simple solution

look at page 48 you can have the projector start up immediately on applying power (* so you could use a remote power switch) and then there is an option for shut down when signal is removed with the ability to add a timer to it

So you could remotely turn on the power then if you want only a specific unit, only send signal to that one, and remove the signal when you want to shut that one down

http://files.support.epson.com/pdf/vs200_/vs200_ug.pdf

there is also a rs 232 control ability

Personally I like being able to use the remote so I like my fiber suggestion but if you just want on and off, looks like this method outlined above will work 

Sharyn


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## stephanie (Apr 25, 2011)

yes,, really late to jump into the thread but check this out:
Screen Monkey - Show and Presentation Control Software
I downloaded this the other day and will be playing with it soon.


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## shiben (Apr 26, 2011)

Do you have DMX? Can you just use a dowser of some sort?


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## avkid (Apr 27, 2011)

shiben said:


> Do you have DMX? Can you just use a dowser of some sort?


 Stop stealing my ideas.


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## emac (Apr 27, 2011)

shiben said:


> Do you have DMX? Can you just use a dowser of some sort?


/avkid 

The only problem with using only a dowser is that you can't actually power off the projector with a dowser. They just block the light from hitting the screen. 

If at all possible you may want to looking to doing both a remote power off solution (something that I do not know how to do with out more research, but it looks like

> SSOOOO I decided to find the manual on line and go thru it-Sharyn


 already did that ) as well as some sort of dowser. The reason being is that at the beginning of the show you could power on all the projectors needed for the show/service and then dowse them until you needed them, thus eliminating the "black light" effect (when a projectors bulb is still on but is just displaying a black screen). 

This might not be necessary if the projector has a really good "black light" that is hardly visible but it really depends on the make of the project. I have worked with both projectors that have terrible "black light" issues and some that I do not have to dowse at all....


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## chausman (Apr 27, 2011)

emac said:


> /avkid Shiben
> 
> The only problem with using only a dowser is that you can't actually power off the projector with a dowser. They just block the light from hitting the screen.


 
Isn't that the idea? Turn all of the projectors you need on a the beginning, then, assuming the OP (Wendell) has DMX, they can just block the light on one projector or the other to get the desired effects. 


emac said:


> This might not be necessary if the projector has a really good "black light" that is hardly visible but it really depends on the make of the project. I have worked with both projectors that have terrible "black light" issues and some that I do not have to dowse at all....


 
We've already mentioned that. 

Wendell said:


> Both projectors will be on the same HDMI cable. A blank powerpoint screen would blank both projectors. As of now, we plan to always send the same image to both projectors. This is part of the "keep it simple..." objective. It will depend on the activity if we use the front, back or both.



So, blank slides don't work so well.


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## emac (Apr 27, 2011)

Wendell said:


> Sometimes we only want one projector on, so we want to control them individually (without spending a fortune).


 
As far as I can tell the OP wants to be able to control individual projectors on and off. Thus he doesn't have to burn bulbs when only one projector is needed. So a only dowser solution is most likely not want he is looking for. 

But I personally, if I have a DMX system in place, would use a dowser even when I only need one projector for a show because of the black light issue.

So basically what I am saying is that if possible the OP may want to look into both a individual projector on/off solution and a dowser system.



emac said:


> This might not be necessary if the projector has a really good "black light" that is hardly visible but it really depends on the make of the project. I have worked with both projectors that have terrible "black light" issues and some that I do not have to dowse at all....
> We've already mentioned that.



Yes I was just reiterating that fact to complete my post sorry for the repost.

And sorry for the multiple versions of this post... I keep hitting send before I'm ready


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## shiben (Apr 27, 2011)

avkid said:


> Stop stealing my ideas.


 
Funy thing i didnt even see your post in there.


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## NickVon (Apr 27, 2011)

@ Stephani, post up your thoughts on ScreenMonkey. I have to admit that it seemed like a fantastic simple solution but was less then impressed with it's ability to run on our IBM production laptop. It felt very slow and clunky. 

@ OP, Slight concern about the constant on and off, as that is actually what degrades lamp on new projectors. They either light being on or they like being off, not off and on off and on. I think a shutter system (some high end models have a shutter built into the projector) or a DMX controlled mounted shutter arm might be your safest solution. 

Not to mention your warm up time and cooldown time for the projectors. If you turn it on at the wrong time or turn it off, your out of luck until it finishes it's cycle.

I believe Rosco/ Apollo both make DMX Douser controllers.

an existing solution as indicated it to wire some serial cable to your projectors, and wire them up to some control switches on the walls. This was discussed earlier as i have very little knowledge of that. (though Wired remote terminals do exist on many and those cables are fairly inexpensive for a 100ft length of 1/8"


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