# Looking for "best practice" on storing luminaires



## Mark Harris (Aug 15, 2014)

I'm recently joined a new (to me) amateur group and volunteered to design and operate the current production. I was slightly horrified to arrive there and find that most instruments were stored in a loft up a stepladder on the floor. My preference and experience has been to have an off-stage section of grid available for luminaires while the theatre is dark (and preferably one that can be closed off while set construction occurs.

We're going to pack out this Sunday, and I want to recommend that we leave the lights where they are, just unplugged and tidy. Can anyone point me at a "best practice" document? It doesn't have to support this approach. If I'm way off-base here, I'm open to change, but it seems to me that placing instruments on a wooden floor in a crowded loft is sub-optimal.


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## Erik456 (Aug 15, 2014)

Mark,
I don't believe there is a 'SOP' for this. Every theatre stores their instruments differently. I have seen some stored in both methods you listed above, and some in unit boxes, and some on meat racks. I think something to be careful of (especially if they are going to be stored for awhile) is the environment. Make sure things aren't too humid. Over time, a small nick will begin to rust, and that's a cancer thats not fun to resolve. Older C-clamps are susceptible to this too. A simple drop cloth may help keep some dust off these fixtures.


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## Mark Harris (Aug 15, 2014)

Erik456 said:


> Mark,
> I don't believe there is a 'SOP' for this. Every theatre stores their instruments differently. I have seen some stored in both methods you listed above, and some in unit boxes, and some on meat racks. I think something to be careful of (especially if they are going to be stored for awhile) is the environment. Make sure things aren't too humid. Over time, a small nick will begin to rust, and that's a cancer thats not fun to resolve. Older C-clamps are susceptible to this too. A simple drop cloth may help keep some dust off these fixtures.


Bugger ;-)


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## SteveB (Aug 15, 2014)

No "right" way and I've seen all kinds of methods, on shelves in a basement storeroom, hung on a pipe rack system in an adjacent storeroom, hung on custom built rolling pipe meat racks, or inside road shop cases, on the floor in a storeroom, and as we sometimes do it, hampers with lids, or just left in place for the next hang.

I like the hamper method, for as long as you don't over-stuff the hamper and can close the lid, it keeps the dust mostly off the fixtures. As well you can label what's in the hamper and double check the inventory that way. Trouble is and dependent on the size of the inventory, it can take a lot of expensive hampers, that we don't (as example) like to leave sitting around stuffed with stage lights, plus you need to have the room to store the hampers, which we do. When we recently finished our yearly lighting maintenance, I just simply re-hung the overhead electrics hang, I didn't cable or two-fer anything. Our supposed next user is our Dept. of Theater and is probably going to re-hang everything. Since the electrics are winched, it was about as easy to rehang and push the UP button.


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## microstar (Aug 15, 2014)

Not sure what the difference would be in going up the ladder to the loft (probably not too dusty up there) and going up something to a section of the grid offstage (probably more dust there) to retrieve the fixtures.
Sounds like they found the best storage place in that facility.


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## theatricalmatt (Aug 15, 2014)

Like Mark said - there really isn't a standard for storing units, as a lot will depend on the specific theater, the inventory, and the layout.

Things I would look for:
* Are you easily able to access all the different types of units in inventory? Do you need special access to get to fixtures (ie, stepladder, someone to run the rail, or access card to a storage room)?
* Are the units efficiently stored? And stored safely?
* Are you able to store fixtures separately by type (both within unit types - ie, 36 vs. 50 degree barrels -- and different types, eg, fresnels versus pars) Are they easy to differentiate in their storage positions?
* Are you easily able to bring one to several dozen units from storage to the stage (or FOH balcony, or booth, etc.)?
* Are all of the accessories easy go get to? The same questions above apply to them, too.


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## Mark Harris (Aug 16, 2014)

microstar said:


> Not sure what the difference would be in going up the ladder to the loft (probably not too dusty up there) and going up something to a section of the grid offstage (probably more dust there) to retrieve the fixtures.
> Sounds like they found the best storage place in that facility.



I'm less concerned about the dust although the loft is far dustier than the grid) as I am about them being plonked on the floor or banged against the ladder. Not optimal for the lamps inside. Also, we live in earthquake country. I have a preference for instruments to be clamped to a grid in such circumstancesm rather than rollong around on the floor. I'm going to offer my services to clean up the loft, as there's a lot of junk there and I found it quite difficult to access all the bits and pieces I needed for the hang.


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## StradivariusBone (Aug 16, 2014)

Our's were stored up stairs in a hallway on the ground so we built a meat rack using chain link fence pipe and 3/4" plywood. The pipe obviously smiles a bit when loaded down, but it's not flexing enough to the point where I would think it would fail. Our cost was about $80 for the pipe.

The plans were acquired from this instructable:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Stage-lighting-storage-and-work-cart/


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## MikeJ (Aug 16, 2014)

I worked place where the furthest upstage electric was never used much, just cyc clight, It had 2 levels of batons, so extra fixtures were stores on the top pipe. This was an automated electric so it was fairly convenient. 

Meat racks, or shelving units on wheels, bodies and Lens tubes separate.


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## gafftapegreenia (Aug 16, 2014)

In college I used to like to pull every instrument into the electrics shop between hangs, and I still think that should be done if you are going dark for an extended period of time. We built on stage in college so it saved a little dust from going into the instruments. It also allowed time for every instrument to be inspected and repairs to be done.

However, in my experiences with theatres that produce year round, or nearly year round, strikes and hangs are scheduled so close together that storage for more than 20% of the inventory is uneccesary. 80% or more of the inventory is almost always in the air.

Meat racks are great if there is a convenient place to store them. I did some work at a college that stored their meat racks for the main stage in their black box, which was down a hall, thru several doors, up an elevator, thru several more doors, across an outside brick walkway, down another hallway, and thru a dressing room. Not very efficient.


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## StradivariusBone (Aug 17, 2014)

That's our case- the only inventory that's on the rack is stuff we use as specials, spares for when we don't have time to replace a socket, etc, or broken fixtures waiting to be fixed. Everything else is for the rep plot and is in the air.


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## Tex (Aug 17, 2014)

Most of our fixtures stay hung in a rep plot. The remainder are stored in a room on warehouse type shelving.


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## Mark Harris (Aug 18, 2014)

I had a chat with the incumbent tech guy. He's always wanted to put pipes into the loft but has never got around to it. Guess what I'll be doing soon. ;-)

Thanks for your replies, folks.


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## Harley Morgan (Aug 18, 2014)

This is how I setup lighting world to hold the excess inventory at my theater. There are approximately 80 fixtures there, and another 50 prehung n dance booms.


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## techieman33 (Aug 18, 2014)

Being a road house all of our inventory comes down on a regular basis. The majority of it lives in a room just off the stage on pipes along the walls of the room. That way they don't take up much space for things like dead cases. Things like cyc lights and par bars usually make their way to the basement where they sit on the floor in whatever room isn't being used at the time.


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## ship (Aug 19, 2014)

I can attest to recently having to spent at least four hours per fixture to many Lighting and Electonics Inc. Leko's in just saving them. Fixtures that were in storage in the orchestra pit below grade and in a masonry area - though not exposed lime from the brick or any flooding. 1990's cheap fixtures were in a worse condition than some I have worked with 100 years old or older. Talking by way of rust in some I couldn’t even extract the shutter plate assembly other than soaking a few days in Thread Locker stuck.
Huge work for not that old fixtures and in this case some that should have just been scrapped short of my saving them. Wonder how well it’s going with the other buyer of the lights that I trained but probably doesn’t have time to detail restore them. Big mistake on my part - I didn’t "field strip" the entire fixtures I was viewing, and what I didn’t see was really bad. This was not the road house fairly un-cared for gear I thought I was seeing, it was much worse I think by way of storage. I did a huge disservice to the other buyer in rxcommending buying these lights - won’t make that mistake again.
1911 theater with some lights stored in the brick catacombs that had lime dust off the brick peppering on them for at least 50 years, and also below grade location, the fixtures were in better condition than the also road house from 1928 with 1990's fixtures that were just stored in the orchestra pit below the extension of the stage perhaps for a few years at most if even that long. Granted a lot of the problems were of the fixture brand and care for the lights which were probably marginal at best for what condition they were really in. The L&E lights in general had one coat of spay paint at best on any surface and little to no graphite was applied as done. Other metals were just left un-painted and exposed. Fixtures might have been well on their way to "bad" condition before storage, brand was crap in quality it would seem in comparison to lights of alternate brands, but storage finished them off. Toast and hours of work just to restore.
Up a ladder and into an area that isn’t wet, in a basket that isn’t in a wet area, hung from a pipe etc... Storage is often best on un-hung pipes local to the stage - flying or not, but often the best areas. After that air movement perhaps for storage areas and in general storage conditions. Can also depend on the brand of light - if you buy a cheaper light, it might have a service life such as the L&E version of a Leko that takes hours to refinish and possibly will have been toast before they went into storage.
Recently bought some drill press vises - this amongst other tools or materials. They were waxed paper oiled in keeping the bright work fresh for as long as it took to sell the product Who cannot remember having to wipe down the oil from fresh Sch. 40 pipe or steel so it can get painted. I see best storage if going to be stored for an unknown amount of time... store it in the live - above ground (not worried about dust) somewhere after full service call. If no time for that, bag it and add little spray of WD-40 to that bag, than seal it. Later wash the lenses in a dish washer with Jet Dry, but the rest of the fixture should be as good as you left it.
Don’t know but options protected gear. Mostly I would think what is done if not too wet is a great storage place. How long the storage and how well maintained the gear a better question as with what brand of gear in storage. Some gear stores it would seem better than other gear.


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## Mark Harris (Aug 19, 2014)

ship said:


> I can attest to recently having to spent at least four hours per fixture to many Lighting and Electonics Inc. Leko's in just saving them. Fixtures that were in storage in the orchestra pit below grade and in a masonry area - though not exposed lime from the brick or any flooding. 1990's cheap fixtures were in a worse condition than some I have worked with 100 years old or older. Talking by way of rust in some I couldn’t even extract the shutter plate assembly other than soaking a few days in Thread Locker stuck.



Eek! Thassalottawork!


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## ship (Aug 20, 2014)

Mark Harris said:


> Eek! Thassalottawork!


Yea, a lot of work but for a good cause in giving money to a theater plus saving them from the scrap yard. In the end, once fitted with a 100w A-19 GE Reveal lamp, they were perfect and better than new other than some warping of the resurfaced shutters. Allowed some fellow employees to own their own lighting gear which was when properly done safe and wouldn't need any care for a long time. That plus used household grade lamps but still had a very decent flat field hard edge beam that they didn't even have to bench focus. Love working on lights so juat wish there wasn't as many I had to get done on this project with more TBA. A normal 360/360Q in used condition would take me 2-3 hours of work in full restoration. That plus I have in works and under the belt lights that literally have taken months to get done or are even still on the waiting list. Always a new technique to try, some part to fabricate etc. to keep it fun. Have some Bantam Superspots that are 750w and rear fan cooled that have been in the works for almost a year now. Had time to sand blast and fabricate some missing parts but had to put them on the shelf for a while. Earlier this summer I had a little more time for them and had to re-surface because the un-treated sheet metal had rusted in the mean time some. Painted a base coat of flat black on the parts and put them back into storage and are fine now in waiting. Missing the rear fan covers to them and still trying to figure out how to make some - back into a holding pattern for later with lots of other lights I can work on in the mean time.


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## ship (Aug 20, 2014)

Back on fixture storage.
If a more modern and not economy brand of fixture, they should store well enough but might depend on how long one intends them to be in storage as with the where question - that plus the condition of the fixture before it’s stored. Gear post Altman 360Q era of lights should in general store fine as long as in maintained condition.
An Altman 360Q series for instance would probably have problems in the gate assembly and various fasteners by way of heat wear from use, now given time to rust further and should be re-surfaced and painted or coated before storage. Once a thorough cleaning is done, should store just fine. A SL, S-4, Shakesphere amongst a few more modern lights are in general much better quality in surface treatment if not materials and should store fine.
If a few months, I might add some oil to all fastener screw threads such as thumb screws, brass or steel screws that are exposed to air or in contact with aluminum, and especially any screws on the C-Clamp - black oxide coated screws rust solid easily. For the most part, shutters and shutter plates plus the rest of the gate assembly should not rust if later than a mid-70's design and not a 360Q knockoff even into the 90's. Even worked on some 80's Colortran Leko’s that were dirty but in general fine, and some Altman 1KAL series that were nasty in getting put away dirty but overall still in good condition once the fog goo, cob webs, cigarette haze, confetti etc was scraped out and cleaned.
If long term storage, I would completely service call the light, add some WD-40 spray or silicone drying packs to a trash bag and bag the fixture. Don’t use both at the same time but both as with other methods should work in preserving the light and in just about any conditions stored in once the fixture is in a bag. Re-clean the lenses/lamp/shutters when ready to use & wipe down the fixture... ready to go.


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## Mark Harris (Aug 20, 2014)

Good thoughts. I'm only looking at between shows (3-4 a year), not long term. Cheers.


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## CrazyJ (Aug 27, 2014)

StradivariusBone said:


> Our's were stored up stairs in a hallway on the ground so we built a meat rack using chain link fence pipe and 3/4" plywood. The pipe obviously smiles a bit when loaded down, but it's not flexing enough to the point where I would think it would fail. Our cost was about $80 for the pipe.
> 
> The plans were acquired from this instructable:
> 
> http://www.instructables.com/id/Stage-lighting-storage-and-work-cart/


 Look at that 1K Kliegel Bro. 8" fresnel. Love it. I have about 10 of those in my inventory. My lamp vendor told me I was the only person
still using them.


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## StradivariusBone (Aug 27, 2014)

CrazyJ said:


> Look at that 1K Kliegel Bro. 8" fresnel. Love it. I have about 10 of those in my inventory. My lamp vendor told me I was the only person
> still using them.



These still work, I've got to sit down and fashion some new yokes for them, but apparently the school got them from a TV studio years back.


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## BobHealey (Aug 27, 2014)

StradivariusBone said:


> These still work, I've got to sit down and fashion some new yokes for them, but apparently the school got them from a TV studio years back.



I'm still using 5 of them. Mine currently run BVT, which I'm guessing mogul prefocus was not original to the fixture?


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## StradivariusBone (Aug 28, 2014)

BobHealey said:


> I'm still using 5 of them. Mine currently run BVT, which I'm guessing mogul prefocus was not original to the fixture?



That would probably make sense. I actually inquired about these fixtures on here a while ago and @ship posited that it wouldn't be hard to convert. Mine are all bi-posts. 

http://www.controlbooth.com/threads/kliegl-bros-8-fresnels.34474/


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## Dionysus (Aug 30, 2014)

I've seen various different storage systems in various places. I really do find that "hanging" fixtures a much better option than them "sitting" around. Fixtures falling over or shifting around or otherwise getting bumped around will cause damage for sure. Bent shutters, lamps loosing life, etc. Some of the other methods mentioned work just as well, especially for staying in one place.
The worst part of them being on the floor is that they take up lots of realestate and being in the way are likely to be booted as people try and move around to grab the one they are after. If standing up on the floor, chances are that they will fall over.

At one theatre I work at, fixtures are stored along the top rails of the catwalk. At one community theatre I've been involved with over the the years (much much less now) I had built a storage rack that to my dismay is not used. Fixtures are on the floor and HAVE suffered for it.


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## Jay Ashworth (Sep 1, 2014)

I would say -- and everyone's implied it here, but I didn't see anyone acutually *say it out loud* -- that wherever you store them, *they should be hanging from a pipe*, not sitting on the floor where they can get knocked over. Filaments do break.


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## Dionysus (Sep 1, 2014)

Jay Ashworth said:


> I would say -- and everyone's implied it here, but I didn't see anyone acutually *say it out loud* -- that wherever you store them, *they should be hanging from a pipe*, not sitting on the floor where they can get knocked over. Filaments do break.


Actually I think I did (didn't re-read to see)


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## Jay Ashworth (Sep 1, 2014)

Yeah. You did. Shouldn't post at 2ayem...


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## derekleffew (Sep 28, 2014)

Came across this, and thought it pertinent to the thread.



From https://designandtechtheatre.wordpress.com/2011/05/


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## gafftapegreenia (Sep 29, 2014)

derekleffew said:


> Came across this, and thought it pertinent to the thread.
> 
> 
> 
> From https://designandtechtheatre.wordpress.com/2011/05/



Two things I just have to say about that diagram. First is that I greatly prefer that method of tail storage. It's far less damaging than tying the tail in a knot. Second, is that diagram really suggesting I run the clamp bolt in all the way and tighten it when I strike a light? That seems like a massive waste of time and effort. Unless they store lights on a meat rack, then this makes sense. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free


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## techieman33 (Sep 29, 2014)

gafftapegreenia said:


> Two things I just have to say about that diagram. First is that I greatly prefer that method of tail storage. It's far less damaging than tying the tail in a knot. Second, is that diagram really suggesting I run the clamp bolt in all the way and tighten it when I strike a light? That seems like a massive waste of time and effort. Unless they store lights on a meat rack, then this makes sense.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free



Agreed, I also like the safety going around the light, they're a lot less likely to get tangled up with another fixture that way. We tighten the clamp down finger tight, no need to use a wrench unless storage is on a pipe that's going to fly, or on a meat rack that is going on a truck.


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## len (Sep 29, 2014)

Mark Harris said:


> We're going to pack out this Sunday, and I want to recommend that we leave the lights where they are, just unplugged and tidy.



Other than preventing them from being used, why unplug them at all? I guess it depends on the way the venue gets used, but if they aren't in the way, just leave them.


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## Mark Harris (Sep 29, 2014)

len said:


> Other than preventing them from being used, why unplug them at all? I guess it depends on the way the venue gets used, but if they aren't in the way, just leave them.


That was my argument too. I didn't win. Oh, well. ;-)


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## Mark Harris (Sep 29, 2014)

derekleffew said:


> Came across this, and thought it pertinent to the thread.
> 
> From https://designandtechtheatre.wordpress.com/2011/05/



From 'best practice' to 'anal retentive' in one easy jump!  Thanks for the site ref.


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## josh88 (Sep 29, 2014)

That's actually how I learned to store things, maybe not quite so specific on how tight some bolts should be, but similar for sure. I just wish my students would remember to push in shutters when they go into storage.


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## Les (Sep 30, 2014)

Sometimes for very long-term storage or transport without proper transit/vehicle provisions, I'll slide a piece of cardboard in to the gel frame of an ellipsoidal or fresnel. Good for when you have to lay a fixture on its side in the trunk of a car. I also secure whips and push in shutters, but I don't think I've ever gone through the lengths shown in the graphic Derek posted. Then again, most spaces I work in barely have enough fixtures to keep their rep circuits warm let alone have things go unused.

I've never known fixtures to gather more dust on the floor than they do when in the air. Main problem on the floor is that people tend to kick things over in the dark, and it isn't exactly the best use of vertical storage space.


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## ship (Oct 1, 2014)

Les said:


> Sometimes for very long-term storage or transport without proper transit/vehicle provisions, I'll slide a piece of cardboard in to the gel frame of an ellipsoidal or fresnel. Good for when you have to lay a fixture on its side in the trunk of a car. I also secure whips and push in shutters, but I don't think I've ever gone through the lengths shown in the graphic Derek posted. Then again, most spaces I work in barely have enough fixtures to keep their rep circuits warm let alone have things go unused.
> 
> I've never known fixtures to gather more dust on the floor than they do when in the air. Main problem on the floor is that people tend to kick things over in the dark, and it isn't exactly the best use of vertical storage space.



Cardboard at least up North often retains moisture - though not a bad idea with synthetic material for dust to make it a little less, 1/2" thick miteral like hard foam would possibly be better. Lots of fixtures I have worked on over the years have suffered from sitting on the gel frame clips to the concreat. Not a huge problem and the most often area to scratch up and easiest to fix. But a problem becomes when gel frame brackets get bent or rusted inside the concave. Bent can be fixed but causes problems with the weld or rivet when done. Not a question of dust, it's the moisture that starts at what is touching cement even if not flooded.

But agreed rare a long term storage say unless summer stock lights that are stored all winter say in the North. Here might be a question, if for long term storage spray everything down with oil and clean later or not? Perhaps better full service call with oil to all fasteners and re-surfacing and coating before so when gear is again used, only a wipe down; or perhaps bagging the light, and putting a sponge coated with oil inside the bag. With lots more options - if gear isn't going to be used for a while, I would think it better to service call the gear before storage with light work after bringing it back, than directly sending used gear into storage without that service call.

New gear can be stored for years, and I think most are bagged and come with oil packets or silica packets, old gear just put away often needs a lot of work to use. Serviced gear should I think if bagged and oil packet or silica packet (think that's what it is to absorb), allows for gear ready to go.


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## Les (Oct 1, 2014)

ship said:


> Cardboard at least up North often retains moisture - though not a bad idea with synthetic material for dust to make it a little less, 1/2" thick miteral like hard foam would possibly be better. Lots of fixtures I have worked on over the years have suffered from sitting on the gel frame clips to the concreat. Not a huge problem and the most often area to scratch up and easiest to fix. But a problem becomes when gel frame brackets get bent or rusted inside the concave. Bent can be fixed but causes problems with the weld or rivet when done. Not a question of dust, it's the moisture that starts at what is touching cement even if not flooded.



True about moisture, especially for basement storage. My geographical area is pretty dry and basements are fairly uncommon, so the thought never occurred to me. I keep a few random fixtures in a storage unit and I always make it a point to elevate the fixtures at least 1' off the floor (usually on utility shelving). Mostly because I don't want them right in my way, but also to prevent scratching on the gel frame clips, and to prevent any water damage. I've never known my storage unit to flood, but I don't want to end up with rusted out fixtures in case it ever does. One day I want to hang some unistrut or 1.5" pipe.


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## Megan Cowher (Apr 12, 2015)

So I'm in the process of revamping the storage at my theatre and one of the things I am looking into doing is building a Meat Rack for some of our lights. Right now they are being stored on the ground in a storage space that's under the seats and it's a questionable situation at best. Unfortunately, I don't have access to welding equipment and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to how to go about building this so it's sturdy and can hold lighting but without welding anything. I was thinking of using a mix of plywood and pipes, with ideally 3 pipes for hanging lights.


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## venuetech (Apr 12, 2015)

threaded pipes? can you put flanges on each end of the pipe?
i would suggest that :
use LARGE casters
size unit for its storage location but not much longer than 6' 
size unit to fit through any doors

three pipes may make it too tall to fit doors.


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## derekleffew (Apr 12, 2015)

Megan Cowher said:


> I was thinking of using a mix of plywood and pipes, with ideally 3 pipes for hanging lights.


Post #8 above seems to be just the ticket for you. I'd probably like to see more bracing/support of the plywood ends, however. Or eliminate the plywood by using threaded (if you have access to a pipe threader) elbows or Kee-Klamp or Rota-Lock hardware.


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## Megan Cowher (Apr 13, 2015)

derekleffew said:


> Post #8 above seems to be just the ticket for you. I'd probably like to see more bracing/support of the plywood ends, however. Or eliminate the plywood by using threaded (if you have access to a pipe threader) elbows or Kee-Klamp or Rota-Lock hardware.


Thanks so much! I knew I had seen it somewhere but couldn't remember where.


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## RileyChilds (Apr 14, 2015)

About 90% of our inventory at Halton Auditorium hangs, mainly because we have at least one rental coming through a week and this Goverment facility's storage space got the axe. The remaining 10% is stored on 4 10 ft pipes in the electric closet that fixtures can clamp to. About 95% of our Inventory at Pease Auditorium hangs for much the same reason as above, but excess inventory is stored under the stage (a lot of our inventory is actually pre-1980 and is in great shape).
//Riley


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