# Truss Protector



## stantonsound (Jun 9, 2007)

ok, we are talking about clamps in the other threads, as well as the clamps putting a dimple in the truss if overtightened, so I thought I would mention this. 

A few years ago, I rented some 12" truss for upright towers for a convention and had to hang lights off the side. I was concerned about putting dimples in the rented equipment, so I called the rental house and asked for a bunch of cheeseboroughs or megaclaws. The owner said that they should have given me some truss protectors and would have one of his guys deliver them to me. 

I was expecting something fancy, high-tech, or borderline magnificent, as I had not heard of these. When they arrived, I was disappointed and felt foolish. They were simple pieces of PVC plastic pipe that had a notch cut out of them that just slipped around the truss and the c-clamp goes around it. What a good idea. They are sold commercially, as seen below, but are very easy to make. The ones pictured are from citytheatrical and are listed at $2.55 each


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## gafftaper (Jun 9, 2007)

Great idea. What about $7 for an 8 foot piece of PVC and a minute on the band saw and you are in business.


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## avkid (Jun 9, 2007)

We usually just call them pipe condoms.


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## Jezza (Jun 10, 2007)

Yep, pipe condoms they are. Cheeseboroughs are great for movers, heavy gear, or dropdowns. However, if your jusing hanging Source 4 or PAR can, the weight isn't sufficient enough to warrant a cheeseborough which easily costs 2x to 3x the cost of a regular c-clamp. Typically, whenever I've rented truss and put truss condoms on the order, they come free as part of the package. The rental company wants to protect their truss just as much as you are concerned about putting dimples in it. Its a win-win situation.


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## len (Jun 10, 2007)

Note: if the following is a violation of the TOS regarding rigging, please delete it.

We call them that as well. Here's another tip if you're doing a piece of vertical truss and want to hang something off it:

Take 2 cheese and put them in opposite corners of the truss holes at the top of the truss (assuming you're using bolt end truss and not spigoted truss). Get a piece of 2" pipe 4 - 5' long (you can rent them or have them cut at home depot, etc.) and run that through the 2 cheese. Now you have a tower where you can hang 4 - 6 lekos in the same horizontal plane. I wouldn't extend the pipe more than 4 - 5' to keep the center of gravity lower. Or you can also put a moving light on each side. JUST MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS BALANCED. And use some sandbags.


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## wolf825 (Jun 10, 2007)

stantonsound said:


> ok, we are talking about clamps in the other threads, as well as the clamps putting a dimple in the truss if overtightened, so I thought I would mention this.
> A few years ago, I rented some 12" truss for upright towers for a convention and had to hang lights off the side. I was concerned about putting dimples in the rented equipment, so I called the rental house and asked for a bunch of cheeseboroughs or megaclaws. The owner said that they should have given me some truss protectors and would have one of his guys deliver them to me.
> I was expecting something fancy, high-tech, or borderline magnificent, as I had not heard of these. When they arrived, I was disappointed and felt foolish. They were simple pieces of PVC plastic pipe that had a notch cut out of them that just slipped around the truss and the c-clamp goes around it. What a good idea. They are sold commercially, as seen below, but are very easy to make. The ones pictured are from citytheatrical and are listed at $2.55 each




For what its worth--when a company fails to send protectors and you need to protect the truss--you can also use a Penny etc out of your pocket of change (note--dimes are too small and thin..nickels and quarters--well now its getting expensive..  )...you just have to make sure you seat the clamp bolt firmly and seat the penny in firmly when doing this method (wiggle the instrument around to make sure its clamped as it should not move), as a penny is not curved and can swivel around against the aluminum, and give a false sense of security against a curved surface. So you need to seat it firmly when tightening the bolt...you can tape the penny in place as well to hold it at first--but you will need to hold and keep the penny in place as you tighten. This is one of those emergency or last minute things you can do in a pinch and only if its needed (and often the penny is ruined afterwards)....but truss protectors are much more preferred and much better. But I can't tell you how often I get to a gig and we are always ONE truss protector short.... 

Keep in mind as well--when tightening the c-clamps, you do not need to wrench down so tight as to dig into the pipe or truss....thats overtightening and is not neccesary and in Aluminum it will dent or bore a hole right into the truss and then you will have just purchased yourself a piece of truss you can never use again as the company will probably rip you apart for that. I can't tell folks how many times I see folks cranking down on a C Clamp like its gotta hold up the space shuttle--goin 6-7 times tight so that its burrowing into the steel pipe...This is NOT neccesary...and you can end up doing damage to the clamp itself and bend it outward. Several of the clamps once they reach a certain stress or fatigue will simply snap. Just finger-tight the C-Clamp first, then give it 1 - 2 turns with your wrench and you should be fine. When you tug on the instrument as long as the C Clamp is not sliding around the pipe or moving from its position and following your pulls etc, you are good... Attach your safety and move on. 

-w


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## jonhirsh (Jun 10, 2007)

The key is to only have a 6" wrench. It makes it hard to over tighten anything. 

JH


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## wolf825 (Jun 10, 2007)

jonhirsh said:


> The key is to only have a 6" wrench. It makes it hard to over tighten anything.
> JH




I'm actually a big fan of the palm sized widget hand wrenches for beginners who are working on aluminum truss to show that how tight is tight enough.....but yes a small wrench is usually just right...

-w


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## Van (Jun 10, 2007)

jonhirsh said:


> The key is to only have a 6" wrench. It makes it hard to over tighten anything.
> 
> JH


 
Any wrench over 6" on an electrics call gets taken to the metal cutting band saw and taken down to size. I've actually gotten thomas truss back with dents in it even with truss condoms ! ERRRRR


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## PadawanGeek (Jun 10, 2007)

wolf825 said:


> a penny is not curved and can swivel around against the aluminum, and give a false sense of security against a curved surface. So you need to seat it firmly when tightening the bolt...you can tape the penny in place as well to hold it at first--but you will need to hold and keep the penny in place as you tighten.



Or if you have a pair of pliers, you can bend the penny at a small angle at the middle and then when you tighten the c clamp, the penny will curve a bit because it is copper and be more secure.


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## Footer (Jun 10, 2007)

wolf825 said:


> For what its worth--when a company fails to send protectors and you need to protect the truss--you can also use a Penny etc out of your pocket of change (note--dimes are too small and thin..nickels and quarters--well now its getting expensive..  )...you just have to make sure you seat the clamp bolt firmly and seat the penny in firmly when doing this method (wiggle the instrument around to make sure its clamped as it should not move), as a penny is not curved and can swivel around against the aluminum, and give a false sense of security against a curved surface. So you need to seat it firmly when tightening the bolt...you can tape the penny in place as well to hold it at first--but you will need to hold and keep the penny in place as you tighten. This is one of those emergency or last minute things you can do in a pinch and only if its needed (and often the penny is ruined afterwards)....but truss protectors are much more preferred and much better. But I can't tell you how often I get to a gig and we are always ONE truss protector short....
> Keep in mind as well--when tightening the c-clamps, you do not need to wrench down so tight as to dig into the pipe or truss....thats overtightening and is not neccesary and in Aluminum it will dent or bore a hole right into the truss and then you will have just purchased yourself a piece of truss you can never use again as the company will probably rip you apart for that. I can't tell folks how many times I see folks cranking down on a C Clamp like its gotta hold up the space shuttle--goin 6-7 times tight so that its burrowing into the steel pipe...This is NOT neccesary...and you can end up doing damage to the clamp itself and bend it outward. Several of the clamps once they reach a certain stress or fatigue will simply snap. Just finger-tight the C-Clamp first, then give it 1 - 2 turns with your wrench and you should be fine. When you tug on the instrument as long as the C Clamp is not sliding around the pipe or moving from its position and following your pulls etc, you are good... Attach your safety and move on.
> -w



I have actually had some places give me a roll of pennys before....


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## PadawanGeek (Jun 10, 2007)

Footer4321 said:


> I have actually had some places give me a roll of pennys before....



You're kidding me!!! :shock: ROFL!!!


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## wolf825 (Jun 10, 2007)

Footer4321 said:


> I have actually had some places give me a roll of pennys before....




LOL...I've heard of similar instances... I always tossed a small handful into my chalk bag so its hard not to be on a gig without a few "just in case"....


-w


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## wolf825 (Jun 10, 2007)

PadawanGeek said:


> Or if you have a pair of pliers, you can bend the penny at a small angle at the middle and then when you tighten the c clamp, the penny will curve a bit because it is copper and be more secure.




good point! 

With the price of copper and so on--we may start seeing nickels and quarters cause a penny will be worth more....

-w


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## stantonsound (Jun 10, 2007)

Too bad pennies really have very little actual copper.....I would melt them down and make feeder cable!


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## Jezza (Jun 10, 2007)

Back to the wrench thing for a second, I agree with the 6" wrench idea, I see way too many things over tightened. However, a 6" does not function as a good hammer as we all tend to do with our c-wrenches. I'm just extra careful when I tighten stuff down with my 8"...or better yet I use my speed wrench and hold it halfway up the shaft to control the pressure. Ha!


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## stantonsound (Jun 11, 2007)

With a little self control and a little training, you should be able to use a 24" pipe wrench and not over tighten.


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## Van (Jun 11, 2007)

stantonsound said:


> With a little self control and a little training, you should be able to use a 24" pipe wrench and not over tighten.


 
"Self control" From Sparkies, and Riggers ? Are you nuts ?


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## stantonsound (Jun 11, 2007)

Ya...what was I thinking? Riggers.....I forgot about them!


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## Chris15 (Jun 12, 2007)

I thought you people had union crews to deal with as well...


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## ship (Jun 12, 2007)

Truss Condoms... that’s what I call them at least. $2.00 each or somewhere around there for them, yep, it might just be PVC but it takes materials, skill and time to make them. That on a rental is no doubt while not the best price an at times OK price while perhaps high.

Take away my 8" wrench and we are at war. Use your 6" wrench and we also are at war. Interesting that an old timer as it were experienced person is all for the 6" wrench instead of what I thought to be the industry standard 8" wrench. That’s what I went to school with and what I require of all those I instruct. Concept is the same however, those who walk on stage with the 10 or 12" wrench sweep the floor and all need instruction into proper torque. Agreed that you can cinch the 6" and especially the wide jaw 6" wrench to the proper tension, just a tradition and norm type of thing for me in going 6" what for me by way of leverage and general use is not enough in cinching to what is the norm for 8" wrench. This also given that the 8" in the old days of all sch. 40 pipe would fit around the nut to it’s cheseboroughs if you opened them all the way and such clamps are not so much in use these days.

Fascinating idea of the penny taped to the truss. One thing about C-Clamps and truss this won’t help on is the little serrations of the C-Clamp also digging into the truss the condom will also protect against. Penny fascinating but not I would thing the best solution.

Len, you are correct this boarders on rigging but given the warning on your part it’s all covered for given one understands your concept. If not they won’t be of a worry in that following the advice you have given is conceptual and not to be tried without training and experience in what is expressed. Good point and it should remain.

Noting that most cheseboroughs are ½" bolt and truss is normally 5/8" hole. Also the 2" pipe you mention is 1.7/8" water pipe in being 1.1/2" ID pipe instead of 2" structural tubing measured by it’s OD instead of ID. The 1.7/8" on a cheseborough at times can be a problem in safety given it’s often designed for a 2" pipe and especially safety cable for the side arm as it were is not included.

Also, it’s been the case that the longer your side arm or outrigger as it were, the more torque. Had a McCormic place instance where some idiot production manager specified some 9-lite audience blinders at the ends of some believe it was 6' long 1.1/2" Sch. 40 pipe. Wouldn’t allow the concept back into the building until a set of engineering specifications signed off on followed it due to a wee bit of bending that pipe did. For once I could not agree less with the IA on-site in requiring what some idiot attempted to do. Sent them off specs in the re-design/engineer once I slapped someone upside the head, and while not an engineer it was accepted.

This all beyond sand bags etc. as needed to counter weight your tower. For me it depends upon the height of the tower and the length of the cantiliever. Most all booms or towers for me are engineered and when ever possible safety cabled off to the grid. After that a cantiliever depends upon height in addition to specific length of pipe. Could be safe, could be dangerous. Nothing to risk in my opinion by way of extra sand bags in the case of some drunk audience member getting near it and knocking it over. Lots of extra sand bags or bolting to the floor plus a safety cable.


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## ship (Jun 12, 2007)

Chris15 said:


> I thought you people had union crews to deal with as well...



 In being nice, suppose it depends upon the local union in how much it depends upon useful verses detremental to the production. No further comment should be expressed about this as it's it's own heated topic and one not so much for Controlbooth to best discuss. 

Gee, some video guys pissed off the local, lighting part of the show in addition to other departments effected such as in end result mine days after the show with all of these cut plugs which came back from the show with all it's twist lock plugs cut off in un-plugging given un-twisting the locking the plugs was too complex for them.... happens it's not just legend. On the other hand, I'm IA trained in many things... while not IA it has uses when working and not neptism in function of ability to become a member above earning it or having too much skilled labor for the amount needed thus competion for a ready man service of hiring those from a pool for the job rather than hiring those by way of personal skill for that job. At times it's the best ever and the most professional you can find. At other times it can be JoeBob and his brother in local guys that are around thus qualifiy who cannot be as easily sent away. The IA can be a great thing for a production - worked and trained with some that were amongst the most skilled. On the other hand at times... means nothing to me. (Personal note, I don't qualify... this before I became upper lower management even.)_


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## bslproductions (Jun 12, 2007)

stantonsound said:


> With a little self control and a little training, you should be able to use a 24" pipe wrench and not over tighten.



And after the lighting gig you can take care of all the Koopa Troupa's in the area.


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## derekleffew (Jul 16, 2013)

*Perma Penny from Apollo*

What ARE those crazy hoosiers smoking in Indiana?

I'm not sure exactly how I feel about this. (I think Kelite needs to send samples to a few key CB members...)






> The Perma Penny is the newest product introduced to the Apollo Product line. The Perma Penny is a handy truss protector that slips right onto a fixture clamp to protect aluminum truss from repeated damage done by clamps, adding years of life to truss. This product was conceived, design, and manufactured completely in-house at Apollo.


New Product: Perma Penny | From The Horse's Mouth
.


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## gafftapegreenia (Jul 16, 2013)

*Re: Perma Penny from Apollo*

Not exactly sure why electrical continuity between instrument and truss is a GOOD thing, but sure. 

Maybe the people that don't like truss condoms will like this.


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## DuckJordan (Jul 16, 2013)

*Re: Perma Penny from Apollo*

would you rather be the ground when you touch the fixture or would you rather have the truss take that voltage because some moron didn't know how to wire a plug?


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## gafftapegreenia (Jul 16, 2013)

*Re: Perma Penny from Apollo*


DuckJordan said:


> would you rather be the ground when you touch the fixture or would you rather have the truss take that voltage because some moron didn't know how to wire a plug?



I guess. But I still think its a weak selling point.


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## derekleffew (Jul 16, 2013)

*Re: Perma Penny from Apollo*


DuckJordan said:


> would you rather be the ground when you touch the fixture or would you rather have the truss take that voltage because some moron didn't know how to wire a plug?


C-Clamp --> aluminum truss --> insulating polyester round sling (GAC flex even) --> electric chain hoist --> GAC bridle --> insulating burlap --> building structural steel member. Or do you run a dedicated, insulated ground wire to every lighting truss?
.


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## DuckJordan (Jul 17, 2013)

*Re: Perma Penny from Apollo*

hmm... never though of that... generally its roof structures that we do.


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## MNicolai (Jul 17, 2013)

You may not be grounded through building steel when it comes to truss, but hang more than one fixture on a truss and if any fixtures have faulty connections to ground, so long as they're bonded to the pipe/truss and therefore each other, electrical shorts will find safer paths to ground through the other fixtures' ground conductors than through a person's body.

I'd suspect a lot of clamps except those with new, shiny paint jobs that insulate the teeth of the clamp from the truss will bond to the truss regardless of these devices though.

I've seen an ample number of cables and whips on fixtures with loose wires at the connector's terminals. At this point when I walk into any theater I just assume that theater's cables or fixtures are in some level of disrepair and don't trust that all of the ground wires are connected like they should be.

I don't mind the idea of using truss protectors that serve to prevent unnecessarily reducing potential paths to ground versus say bits of PVC. Nothing's a substitute for proper inventory maintenance and upkeep though.


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