# Par 56 advantages/disadvantages



## jimmol (Oct 1, 2009)

What are the advantages/disadvantages to adding PAR 56 cans to the Par 64 cans we already have in our gym? or should we just stick with PAR 64 cans? 

Is there an advantage of one over the other, other than more watts? 

We could mount the 56 cans on a bar 10 ft. away from center stage instead of 20 ft.: Would a 300 watt PAR 56 at 10 ft give close to the same strength as a 500 watt par 56 or 64? (Sorry for this one, I have not been able to find out if the lighting charts for a PAR 64 are the same as a PAR56, in fact, I can't seem to find any PAR 56 lighting data.)

History: Our school gym is host to a church service which uses 4 par 64 cans, with 500w, medium floods, 100% on, fan setting, mounted 20 ft back from center stage, to light an area about 40 ft (fringe left to right) by 15 ft that has a 24x8 2 ft high stage set up. We used the lights and stage for a school play and everyone loved it. The school went in half with the church for a console and dimmer relays and now we would like to add additional lights and redirect the Par 64 lights so we can have different scenes in our future plays. 

In doing my homework, I see that there is a slight price difference in 56 to 64, though the cheapest ones are only a dollar apart and as I have read here, cheap fixture + good bulb gives adequate lighting. I have look through the forum on Par 56 info - can't even get a search results of PAR 56, always comes by PAR only. There isn't much info on the web of using one over the other.

Gym info: 55 x 80 feet, stage is along 80 foot side with bleachers opposite, lights are attached to the rafters 20 ft above the floor.

In reading over some threads I see there is a wealth of information on this sight and I am a bit poor. 

Thanks for your input.


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## JD (Oct 1, 2009)

Not sure there is an advantage in your situation. PAR-56 can usually be packed in a higher density, which is good for club usage. The 56 has a lower wattage so on short throws you can use more on the same dimmers and break up the source location for better coverage. PARs are somewhat of a crude instrument. I love them for Rock shows, but lets face it, it's a big headlight in a can! To say there is a specific advantage to the 56 vs the 64, other than wattage and output is a stretch. In a gym, I would stick with the 64's as long as you have dimmer capacity. The bulb range on the 64's is 500 vs 1k. On the 56's it's 300 vs 500. (Unless you do the DYS thing. Remember, the DYS has a shorter lifespan.)


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## waynehoskins (Oct 1, 2009)

The short answer is no: Medium Flood refers to the beamwidth, and that's reasonably consistent regardless of lamp size. So while you could get similar intensity from a 300 at 10 feet to a 500 at 20 feet, you've lost a lot of your coverage. However, if you could safely lamp up to 1K, that would make everything brighter without sacrificing coverage -- "safely" being the operative word.

I would stay away, far far away, from the Cheap Lights From China. more from the safety standpoint than functionality.


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## derekleffew (Oct 1, 2009)

waynehoskins said:


> ...I would stay away, far far away, from the Cheap Lights From China. more from the safety standpoint than functionality.


For a permanent install where fixtures are not going to be moved around much if at all, it's tempting to buy the cheapest can available. Resist the temptation! Not moving the fixtures, in a "set it and forget it" type of situation, means there's little chance for the fixtures to ever be inspected. Many lessor manufacturers cut corners on sockets, cabling, and connectors. No one will know there's a problem until insulation degrades or melts causing risk of fire and/or electrocution. There's a reason PAR fixtures from Altman, Thomas, Tomcat, TMB, etc. cost more, and it's not greed.

In my opinion, the only reason to use a PAR56 over a PAR64 is if one must have a 300W lamp. Altman used to make an adapter ring to allow a PAR56 lamp to fit in a PAR64 can, but I haven't seen those in years.


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## JD (Oct 1, 2009)

If you are going to use the China cans, change out the socket and whip. The PAR-1 socket by Sylvania comes with a 48 inch whip. I have seen it cheaper then in the link below, but it will serve as a reference. UL Recognized-E31557, CSA Certified - LR20904 

This leaves you with NO connections between the lamp and the plug which is what you want. (You will also need fiberglass sheath, ground wire, and should be qualified to do the work.) 

Most of the China cans come with a cheap socket, terminal block, and a plastic line cord. As Derek said above, chances are it will not be looked after and may be subject to heat damage.

OSRAM SYLVANIA PAR-1 lamp holder for PAR64 & PAR56 bulbs - BulbAmerica.com


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## jimmol (Oct 1, 2009)

waynehoskins said:


> I would stay away, far far away, from the Cheap Lights From China. more from the safety standpoint than functionality.



Are Elation and American DJ PARs considered safe for use? I have seen them advertised for 30 to 40 dollars.


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## shiben (Oct 1, 2009)

Safe? Probably. I have 8 ADJ PAR 16s for accent lighting in my room. Bright? Not at all. High quality? Definitely not. Mine dont even have a ground. I have them lamped at 40W and 60W. They are great for accents in my room, would never work on stage. I also have an ADJ PAR 56. Its kind of cheap, and just feels like crap.


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## Nate1714 (Oct 1, 2009)

In your situation I would think about what you need more. If coverage is more the issue and placement is not then stick with the 54 and get more to fill in gaps. The 64 will allow more flexability with placement (let you place further away) and provide more intensity. A combination of both is more then likely what you will end up with. Just place the 64's in the areas where you need more "light".


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## mstaylor (Oct 2, 2009)

Also, if you need to less coverage but have the 64's then just go to a narrow or Very narrow bulb.


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## jimmol (Oct 2, 2009)

Nate1714 said:


> In your situation I would think about what you need more. If coverage is more the issue and placement is not then stick with the 54 and get more to fill in gaps. The 64 will allow more flexibility with placement (let you place further away) and provide more intensity. A combination of both is more then likely what you will end up with. Just place the 64's in the areas where you need more "light".



On the school side, the flexibility may come into play if they do a play at the end of the gym and the lights need to be moved for that, positioned for several different scenes. On the church side, they want to use the 4 pars in the fan position to light the outer 1/3s of the stage area and add one light, each side, straight on to reduce the shadows caused by the 64s for the people at the outer edges of the light - so the current 64s would come in just a bit since it would be a slightly smaller area they would be lighting - and the straight on light could be either a 64 or 56. The center would be covered with 2 or 3 new light. 
Hmm. Thanks for the thought.


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## jimmol (Oct 2, 2009)

mstaylor said:


> Also, if you need to less coverage but have the 64's then just go to a narrow or Very narrow bulb.



Good idea! A bulb is cheaper than a can.


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## jimmol (Oct 2, 2009)

*An info on this light?*

Anyone seen these and are they a good light?

We were able to purchase 3 PAR 64 can used, shown below, and now have the chance to purchase some more. 

At the time, we were looking for lights and a local company had them. Now I want to find out if they are worth the price they are asking.


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## derekleffew (Oct 2, 2009)

*Re: An info on this light?*

It's a Chinese copy of the original spun-aluminum PAR64 can by Thomas, and is likely worth $20-30 US on the used market. 

See above for all the caveats.

This and the post directly above merged here from another thread.


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## gafftapegreenia (Oct 2, 2009)

They're lamps. Lamps. Not bulbs. 

Ok sorry I just had to.


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## jimmol (Oct 2, 2009)

*Re: An info on this light?*


derekleffew said:


> It's a Chinese copy of the original spun-aluminum PAR64 can by Thomas, and is likely worth $20-30 US on the used market.
> from another thread.[/COLOR][/SIZE]



$20-30 with or without bulb?


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## waynehoskins (Oct 2, 2009)

*Re: An info on this light?*


jimmol said:


> bulb



LAMP, not bulb.


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## Les (Oct 2, 2009)

And usually without.


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## jimmol (Oct 2, 2009)

Thanks for all the input...lamps, not bulbs. 

I think I am leaning toward 6 300w par 56. mount them 10 ft closer - one for each 1/3 of stage and 3 for the center. I have found the Chauvet PAR56C Twin Pack for $60. 

Also, I can take 2 56 and fan them in place of one 64 so it may give more even light. 

Finally, with the 15 amp limit of our dimmers, I can plug 2 500w 64s and 2 56s and still stay under the limit. 

Thanks for sharing your insight. 

If we had the money we would buy the best that money could buy, but we don't, so we buy the safest at the lowest cost.


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## Nate1714 (Oct 3, 2009)

My theatre bough 6 of the chinese copys they are for flash and trash for audiences view. I personal have doubts on their safty compared to the "standard" ones. Beyond that like someone said earlier pars are headlights in a can in fact I have made some useing coffe cans and the lamps. It works (and no fires either!). They will work for your application just be aware or their potental down sides. Can be not as good as quolity and #2 they sure are silver arent they...Sounds like you have some good ieads for set up thus far.


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## jimmol (Oct 3, 2009)

For those of you with more experience...
What are the preferred angles off the horizontal for lighting people?

I have read to high and you get eye shadows, to low and you blind them. I thought I read somewhere 30 degrees, but what has worked best for you?

Oh, I could start a new thread if that would be more appropriate.
Thanks


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## mstaylor (Oct 3, 2009)

Most professional theatre tries to be in the 45 degree neibhorhood.


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