# want to lay a cheap black floor



## Kalis (Jul 9, 2009)

Hello all,

I am trying to figure out a way to get a cheap black surface that could be used as a floor for a short 2 performance run. Basically the problem I have is that I want to paint the floor with UV paint and then blast the space with a UV cannon nearer the end of the show, thus creating a very strong closing spectrum of colors. However, the space that I'm working in is a small black box and if I paint this UV stuff onto the floor, even if I paint over it, it will still be visable in the future if another show wants to use a UV cannon. 

So what I'm asking is if anyone knows a way to make a cheap, and I mean CHEAP, black surface that I can use as a floor. It only has to last the two shows. I looked at laminate flooring but in ireland its about 13 euro per square Yard, which gets quite expensive and isnt' even black so I will have to paint it anyway. Another suggestion I had was to buy cheap rolls of Wallpaper and paste them onto the floor, then paint them black (if they aren't already) and once dry then set my UV and other paints on them. However I'm worried that wallpaper might rip under the actors feet.

Does anybody have any suggestions. After the show is done the floor will be painted black once more anyway so ripping paint up isn't a problem


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## sk8rsdad (Jul 9, 2009)

Since the plan is to repaint after the show anyway, the cheapest floor covering I know of is black paint. A floor sander will take it off and a good primer should cover up any residual traces.

Failing that, I have had some success using roofing felt as a floor covering, although seaming it can be an issue. Your local building supply should have it.


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## Kalis (Jul 9, 2009)

Unfortunatly I dont have access to a floor sander and the budget is pretty thin at the moment. And I'm not sure if the felt would really be the best surface to paint on. 

thanks for the input.


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## sk8rsdad (Jul 9, 2009)

Roofing felt takes paint just fine. I wouldn't have suggested it otherwise.

Maybe you could apply your UV paint to plastic or paper, or unpainted wallpaper and then glue that to the stage floor like a decal instead of trying to cover up the entire floor and then paint.


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## wah0808 (Jul 9, 2009)

How about Masonite? The 4'X8' sheets can be painted then taped down... I've seen many a Theatre use this as a cheap stage covering.


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## Van (Jul 9, 2009)

Masonite is my floor covering of choice when I want to go cheap but I prefer 1/4" MDFbut in a no budget situation either is a very expensive option. 

This is just an Idea Not something I've tried!!!
This might sound a bit crazy but how about mopping down the floor with something like Future < a brand here in the States.> or some other Acrylic floor treatment. I've noticed a few times when I've used Future on set and had paint spatter get on it , the paint seems to clean up real easily. After applying two coats and allowing them to dry throuroughly, you could then paint your UV on that. The Acrylic floor covering stuff comes up with a hot water and Ammonia mopping. Should bring the paint right up with it. It's going to be a lot of mopping however. 
Thing to consider; The acrylic is a High Gloss finish, anything left after mopping or not covered by another paint will be extremely high gloss. 

Good luck


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## gafftaper (Jul 9, 2009)

Masonite would be my first choice. 

We did a set in college for a set of opera scenes that required two very different floor surfaces. To pull this off we purchased a large muslin drop and taped it down to the floor. At intermission we pulled the tape and a new floor appeared underneath. 

You could also use a large painter's drop cloth. I see a 20'x20' online for less than $100.


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## seanandkate (Jul 10, 2009)

Another vote for Masonite. I lay it down, and tape the seams with good gaff tape (don't use the cheap stuff--the paint will flake off!). The weight of the Meso keeps it from shifting pretty much, but a few screws will also get the job done.


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## lieperjp (Jul 10, 2009)

When I've helped do this in the past, we have always done it in three layers: The bottom layer is large pieces of cardboard (to prevent scratching a recently redone gym floor) then a layer of 1/4 in fiber board (the the stuff you find pegboard made out of but without the holes) to combat the cushion in the gym floor and then a layer of 1/2 in masonite. Since both times I've done this the floor was grey and not black, we just used duct tape and didn't worry about flaking. However, if you are going with black, be sure to get tape that won't flake!!!


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## sk8rsdad (Jul 10, 2009)

The OP mentioned no budget. If they can't afford to rent a floor sander they are not going to be able to afford masonite.


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## David Ashton (Jul 13, 2009)

If you are a school or non profit organization it may be worth asking your local timber merchant to donate the cover sheets from masonite or mdf packs, they are marked and scraped but good enough for a temporary stage floor and they generally go to landfill.If you generally buy timber from them anyway it helps.


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## gafftaper (Jul 13, 2009)

When I'm on the main forum page, the title of this thread get's abbreviated to: "want to lay a cheap black..."


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## rcal (Jul 13, 2009)

I'm not sure of your budget, chip board is cheap and cheeful, a 8x4 sheet comes in at around 6-10 pounds


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## Van (Jul 13, 2009)

rcal said:


> I'm not sure of your budget, chip board is cheap and cheeful, a 8x4 sheet comes in at around 6-10 pounds


 
No I think a 4x8 sheet weighs more like 15-20 pounds......Oh Wait you mean Pounds not pounds! Silly English language. 

I like Gaffs idea of a ground cloth. I made one out of Heavy Canvas once, for *Terra Nova*, drug heavy, metal-skidded sleds over it for two weeks with no problem.


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## Kalis (Jul 17, 2009)

Thanks for all the thoughts. I have gone ahead with 6 sheets of 4x8 1/8 inch Hardboard. It was the cheapest I could get and works fine. The paint has applied perfectly. Thanks for all the help and ideas.


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## gafftaper (Jul 18, 2009)

That's a really good point. Hardboard/Masonite is a really nice smooth surface for painting. You can tape or dutch the seems and it looks great.


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## teqniqal (Sep 6, 2012)

The responses to this thread all have one thing in common: *None of them meet the requirements of the Fire Codes.* The materials used for this type of floor covering _must_ be treated with fire retardants or intumescent paint. Always pause and research to know what the materials you are considering building with will do if they are somehow ignited. Toxic fumes? Rapid Burning? Black Smoke? Fire Codes are not recommendations that can be ignored, they are laws that must be obeyed. They are written and adopted for the safety of the building occupants, the fire fighters that might have to enter the building, and to reduce / prevent loss of property.


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## DuckJordan (Sep 7, 2012)

really? i guess that depends on where you are, I know for a fact the carpet in my apartment isnt FR, nor IFR. I also know for a fact the wood studs in the walls are not Fire retardant either. A blanket statement such as yours only proves one thing, and its that blanket statements are inherently wrong in different situations. there are 3 spaces in my city alone that use a masonite floor cover painted with regular house paint. The fire marshal has signed off their for the fire codes you are referencing do not apply. Sorry to burst your bubble.


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## teqniqal (Sep 8, 2012)

Building Codes and Fire Codes are different for various building classifications. Residential Single-Family Dwelling construction requirements are different than Multi-family Dwelling (aka ‘apartments’ or ‘condominiums’) construction requirements, and these are is different than Commercial Construction, and they are all different from that required for Assembly Occupancies (aka ‘theatres’). For Assembly Occupancies, the stage must be constructed to a Class I Fire Rating. A Class I Fire Rated wall, floor, or ceiling must meet stringent Fire Resistance Rating (burn-through rate), Flame Spread (the rate at which fire grows across the surface), and Smoke Generation requirements. The NFPA Codes specifically allow for wood construction of a stage floor, but this does not permit you to use just any-old-wood. The other sections of the code define the properties of the wood construction. Using fire retardant treated wood, or coating wood with intumescent paint is _part of the process_ of designing a Class I Fire Rated Assembly, _not the entire process_.

Generic unfinished tempered pressboard (aka ‘Masonite’) is rated for Class III with regard to Flame Spread. Fire Retardant treated plywood is rated Class I. The Paint you apply to the surface affects the over-all Fire and Smoke Rating of the Assembly, too.

The act of a Fire Marshal signing-off on a floor (or any construction for that matter) does not mean that the construction is fire-proof, nor does it mean that the Building / Fire Codes don’t apply. It only means that someone signed a piece of paper that authorizes you to occupy the building.

My experience has been that many Fire Marshals have little or no understanding of the application of Building Codes and/or Fire Codes to when it comes to theatres. I regularly tour theatre facilities that have been recently ‘signed-off’ by the Fire Marshal and easily find hundreds of Fire Code and Building Code violations (usually to the Owner’s dismay).

The Fire Marshal is not liable if the building burns down (although his judgment in signing the occupancy permit may be questioned). The liability for injuries, deaths, and property damage will fall upon those involved in the design and construction of the building, *and those that may have modified it after-the-fact*. This is part of the reason that Architects and Contractors carry Liability Insurance, as well as building Owners. This is also the reason that Architects and Contractors strive to ensure that the buildings they design and construct are done correctly – it is to reduce their liability exposure when lawyers show-up on their doorsteps should something go horribly wrong (as it invariably does). There will always be a search for the guilty parties.

Ultimately, as with all things safety oriented, we should not try to sneak-by doing the bare minimum, or maybe something that sort-of-looks-like the bare minimum, as the Building / Fire Codes, OSHA, and ANSI standards that define these items only represent the MINIMUM that is required. You can, _and should_, do more.

Also maybe of interest:
http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/...14575-stage-floor-replacement.html#post262130


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## JChenault (Sep 9, 2012)

One thing you might look at is a product be GAMfloor. They have a lightweight vinyl floor which ( depending on how much wear and tear it gets) might hold up nicely for what you are doing. Note that it is not designed to be removed and re-installed


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## Footer (Sep 9, 2012)

JChenault said:


> One thing you might look at is a product be GAM. They have a lightweight vinyl floor which ( depending on how much wear and tear it gets) might hold up nicely for what you are doing. Note that it is not designed to be removed and re-installed



Everyone, *THIS THREAD IS OVER 3 YEARS OLD. THE SHOW IS LONG OVER.*


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## JohnD (Sep 10, 2012)

Ah, the problem with necroposts, BUT, someone else may do a search, and the new info might be relevant.


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