# Cam-Lok E1015 series



## felixm (Apr 14, 2009)

Does anyone have any tips for getting male camlocks on the end of cable? I'm making my own cables using 6awg so and 15 series camlocks I was able to push the cover onto the females but can't get the males all of the way in. They stop about 1/2in from the end.

Thanks


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## Footer (Apr 14, 2009)

*Re: male camlock 15 series*

Vice and a dead blow usually does the trick for me.


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## JD (Apr 15, 2009)

Make sure your boot set screw is backed all the way out, and of course that the screw is in line. Usually have more problems with the females. (especially on the 1016s) Those females always need a little greasing up!


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## mrb (Apr 15, 2009)

are you putting camlocks on the individual conductors of a 6/4 SO cable? Thats a big no-no.


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## STEVETERRY (Apr 15, 2009)

felixm said:


> Does anyone have any tips for getting male camlocks on the end of cable? I'm making my own cables using 6awg so and 15 series camlocks I was able to push the cover onto the females but can't get the males all of the way in. They stop about 1/2in from the end.
> 
> Thanks



See "Com-a-long tool" and Silicone grease in attached data sheet.

ST


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## STEVETERRY (Apr 15, 2009)

felixm said:


> Does anyone have any tips for getting male camlocks on the end of cable? I'm making my own cables using 6awg so and 15 series camlocks I was able to push the cover onto the females but can't get the males all of the way in. They stop about 1/2in from the end.
> 
> Thanks



Excerpt from the NEC section 520.53(H)(2):

*(2) Single-Conductor Cables. Single-conductor portable supply cable sets shall be not smaller than 2 AWG conductors. The equipment grounding conductor shall not be smaller than 6 AWG conductor. 
*

Therefore, you are very limited as to where in the theatre you can use those E1015's and still be code compliant.


ST


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## derekleffew (Apr 15, 2009)

Mr. Terry, I'm surprised at you. I expected to hear you rail against the poor, defenseless baby-Cams, as you have in the past:

STEVETERRY said:


> Err....I don't see how E1015 mini Cam-Loks would be useful here:
> 
> 1. Code prohibits use of single-conductor cable below#2AWG in size in 520.53 (H)(2).
> 
> ...



edit: Simultaneously posted with above. STEVETERRY never (rarely) disappoints!


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## JD (Apr 15, 2009)

I miss Reddy Kilowatt! You know, you grow up with these things and then they fade away.... I guess he wasn't eco friendly or something....


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## mnfreelancer (Apr 15, 2009)

I used to work at a nuke plant that had a "life size" reddy kilowatt in the skyway between the admin building and the power block - it was cool!


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## gafftapegreenia (Apr 15, 2009)

I've got a little Reddy Kilowatt pin I wear from time to time to see who knows.


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## felixm (Apr 16, 2009)

ok os why can't you use cam on so cable? I'm not doing a huge power distro. I have a Furman ASD-120 and the baby cam seamed the best way to disconnect the cable from my rack. Also trying to carry around one 100' piece of 6/4 SO is heavy. So I thought I would use cam's to make 2 50ft cables. 


mrb said:


> are you putting camlocks on the individual conductors of a 6/4 SO cable? Thats a big no-no.


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## JD (Apr 16, 2009)

The problem has to do with the type of insulation used on the internal conductors and how it holds up in normal and rough handling. The best answer is the multipin pin & sleeve connectors. Independent conductors must be type SC and at least 2 gauge.


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## icewolf08 (Apr 16, 2009)

felixm said:


> ok os why can't you use cam on so cable? I'm not doing a huge power distro. I have a Furman ASD-120 and the baby cam seamed the best way to disconnect the cable from my rack. Also trying to carry around one 100' piece of 6/4 SO is heavy. So I thought I would use cam's to make 2 50ft cables.




JD said:


> The problem has to do with the type of insulation used on the internal conductors and how it holds up in normal and rough handling. The best answer is the multipin pin & sleeve connectors. Independent conductors must be type SC and at least 2 gauge.



As JD was saying, the issue is with the cable. You cannot take multi-conductor cable and splay out the conductors to wire them into single conductor connectors. That is against code for the reasons stated above. The 6/4 cable as a whole is SO rated, but the individual conductors are not. You also put extra strain on the conductors and outer jacket by doing this.

There are plenty of multi-pole connectors on the market that will suit your needs. As mentioned above, chances are your best bet lies in pin & sleeve land. 

*Multi-conductor cable has to be wired to multi-pole connectors.* This is the same reson why we have Socapex connectors as opposed to cables with a bunch of stage pin connectors hanging out the end. That being said, you should not continue on your current course with this project, you should find a connector solution that is correct for the application.


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## felixm (Apr 16, 2009)

Cool thank you all for the info. Just a couple of more questions then. The furman piece I have will do 6 20 amp circuits, so that is 120amps total. I doing a small touring PA rig. I will probably never use the full 120 amps, but if it can handle it I want to make sure I have the right cable. Is 6/4 big enough? If the 6/4 is big enough what connectors would you recommend? 

Some what of a side note : If it is against code to use a single conductor below 2 awg why do they make cam that work from 4 awg to 8 agw?

And thank you for not calling an idiot, I'm trying to do the right thing.


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## mrb (Apr 16, 2009)

I would suggest 50amp CS style twistlocks. You should be able to pick them up for around $40ea, less on ebay.


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## Sony (Apr 16, 2009)

felixm said:


> Cool thank you all for the info. Just a couple of more questions then. The furman piece I have will do 6 20 amp circuits, so that is 120amps total. I doing a small touring PA rig. I will probably never use the full 120 amps, but if it can handle it I want to make sure I have the right cable. Is 6/4 big enough? If the 6/4 is big enough what connectors would you recommend?
> 
> Some what of a side note : If it is against code to use a single conductor below 2 awg why do they make cam that work from 4 awg to 8 agw?
> 
> And thank you for not calling an idiot, I'm trying to do the right thing.



You best bet would be to *CONSULT A LOCAL QUALIFIED MASTER ELECTRICIAN*, Control Booth specifically prohibits giving advice on what you SHOULD do in this type situation, we can only tell you what you SHOULDN'T do. Electrical work should only be done by people who are qualified and know what they are doing, the fact that you were trying to use Baby Cams (Complete overkill for your application and not up to code in the USA) and splitting up a Multi-Conductor cable makes it painfully obvious that you are *NOT* qualified to do this. A local electrician can easily and quickly set you up with the proper connector for this application.


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## Dover (Apr 17, 2009)

The hardest part of electrical work is knowing what parts of the NEC apply to your location and what don't. A qualified electrician is a good source to consult but only what the NEC defines as "the authority having jurisdiction" can provide you with a definitive answer. Usually such an authority would be represented by the local electrical inspector or in some cases the fire marshal. 
I would recommend that you consult with someone in such a position before you continue with your project.


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## felixm (Apr 17, 2009)

Thank you all for your help I'll make some phone calls and see if I can find some one to help me.


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## JD (Apr 17, 2009)

Just a footnote: Code interpretation can get pretty wild even on a question this simple! For example, 6/3 is rated at 55 amps, 6/4 is rated at 45 amps. The reason is that the wire is rated based on the idea that each conductor will be carrying current. The more conductors, the more heat! But, you say, only 3 are conducting power, the forth is a ground?? See what I mean? In additions, cables vary in the temperature rating. The same gauge used as an aerial feed in open air will have much less capacity in conduit or in a multi conductor cable. The issue of the connectors is another good example. The mini cams are often used in welding equipment which uses its own set of standards. Much of the "old world" power distribution of the 80s came from the welding field! Most of these things, such as welding cable itself, are not permitted in stage and distro. Twekos were left at the waste side, as were the mini cams.


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## STEVETERRY (Apr 18, 2009)

felixm said:


> Cool thank you all for the info. Just a couple of more questions then. The furman piece I have will do 6 20 amp circuits, so that is 120amps total. I doing a small touring PA rig. I will probably never use the full 120 amps, but if it can handle it I want to make sure I have the right cable. Is 6/4 big enough? If the 6/4 is big enough what connectors would you recommend?
> 
> Some what of a side note : If it is against code to use a single conductor below 2 awg why do they make cam that work from 4 awg to 8 agw?
> 
> And thank you for not calling an idiot, I'm trying to do the right thing.



I assume you are feeding the Furman with two hot legs and a neutral and a grounding conductor. Since 

A. It might not be a 240/120 single phase service
B. It might be two legs of a 3-phase service plus neutral and ground
C. It might be feeding non-linear loads

then you will have to consider the neutral a current carrying conductor. Therefore, your 6/4 type SO has three current-carrying conductors since the grounding conductor is not current carrying.

Per NEC table 400.5(A) column A, the ampacity of your 6/4 is 45 amps. Therefore, you cannot get more than 90A at 120V thru that cable, as it must be protected by an overcurrent device of not more than 45A.

A 50A 4-pole twist-lok should be just fine for your connector.

Regarding the E1015's, the NEC was changed to limit single conductor cables to 2AWG long after the E1015 had been introduced. And, there are many legal applications for this connector where it is used inside a Listed piece of equipment (let's say a dimmer rack with an internal distro and multiple rack-mounted packs) that has been evaluated by an NRTL as a complete assembly.

ST


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## JD (Apr 18, 2009)

STEVETERRY said:


> And, there are many legal applications for this connector where it is used inside a Listed piece of equipment




Ahh! So that's how the Carnival companies get away with it! I noticed that they almost exclusively use mini cams on the ends of 6/4 ride runs, and yet pass inspection on a weekly basis. The trick is that all the connections are made inside the water resistant distro cabinets and only the sheathed 6/4 SO cable exits once the distros are closed and locked.


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## ac30boy (Oct 15, 2009)

*Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors*

Hi Guys,

I'm a cam-lok newbie trying to attach them to #4 wire (the largest size that part accommodates). The operative word is *trying*. 

If I understand the instructions correctly I should be able to pass the wire with jacket intact from the wire end of the connector all the way through to the conductor side where you would subsequently attach the conductor (and of course, used the copper wire and shim) before pulling/pushing the conductor into the jacket aligned so that the rivet slides into the slot in the plastic ring inside.

This all makes perfect sense - but when I try to pass the jacketed wire through it stops at a "bump" (a ring that's part of the molded insulator sleeve) that apparently keeps the plastic ring from sliding out the back of the of the cam-lok. Does anyone know if the jacketed cable is actually suppose to pass all the way through to the connector side, or does it need to be stripped more than what the intructions say (only 5/8" for the shim). It seems as though it would take an extraordinary amount of force for the jacket to get pass the bump, if it's possible at all without damaging something.

Anyone have experience/knowledge of this they can share?

Btw - hello, JD! We once met at McManus Enterprises in Bala Cynwyd around 1980-1981. You explained to me how a delta-wye configuration worked.

Regards to all,
Tom


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## STEVETERRY (Oct 16, 2009)

*re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors*


ac30boy said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I'm a cam-lok newbie trying to attach them to #4 wire (the largest size that part accommodates). The operative word is *trying*.
> 
> ...



What type of cable are you using? 

ST


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## FatherMurphy (Oct 16, 2009)

*re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors*

As I understand your question, you're having trouble getting the jacket/shell onto the cable before doing any of the stripping or assembling of the contact, possibly because the wire you're using has a bit more insulation than normal for that wire gauge.

They do sell a lubricant formulated for the plastics involved, which could help. 

The only other suggestion I have is beveling the edge of the strip slightly, so it ramps past the inside corner it's currently catching on (like sharpening a pencil). You DON'T want to overstrip, especially when you're using the 'largest size wire for this connector', since you'll be shortening the length of the tapered boot of the jacket to accept the wire to begin with. The copper wire is there to prevent the cable jacket from milking down the copper and exposing the bare copper outside the shell.

The real fun begins when you go to pull the shell over the contact and snap that nylon ring around the pin....


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## ac30boy (Oct 16, 2009)

*re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors*

Steve, thanks for your interest. it's "Dura-Flex" #4 - the precise type I believe is "CC"? When I get home I can verify and provide more info.

Tom


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## ac30boy (Oct 16, 2009)

*re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors*

FatherMurphy,

You are correct although the insulator has cutoffs to allow for this size of cable, it's inside where you run into trouble. A smaller jacket, say, on a #6 wire, would probably clear the ring that precedes the plastic piece. I'm thinking of calling Cooper Crouse-Hinds and hoping a tech support person will confirm the best/accepted approach - they had to have crossed this bridge before if they spec the connector for #4 wire. Of course, could it be the jacket on the Dura-flex wire I'm using exceeds what they ordinarily expect for outside diameter? This is new territory for me - I always purchased manufactured cable before, but would like the flexibility of building/maintaining them.

- Tom


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## JD (Oct 16, 2009)

*re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors*

Wow, your memory is better than mine! 

Anyway, the cable type may be some of the problem. Generally, type SC or SCE is what should be used. The old catch 22 of the E1015 is that you should not use smaller then #2 as single conductors in stage use, and #4 is about the biggest thing that fits in the E1015. The standard connector to use is the E1016 which fits up to 4/0. One other advantage is that almost any company switch you run into that has cam-locs is equipped with the E1016 series.

Oops! Let me correct this on behalf of all of us before Derek gets mad- Wire! We are talking about wire. A cable is a group of wires in a single jacket.


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## STEVETERRY (Oct 16, 2009)

*re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors*


FatherMurphy said:


> As I understand your question, you're having trouble getting the jacket/shell onto the cable before doing any of the stripping or assembling of the contact, possibly because the wire you're using has a bit more insulation than normal for that wire gauge.
> 
> They do sell a lubricant formulated for the plastics involved, which could help.
> 
> ...



To ease installation of the insulator to the contact, use a Crouse-Hinds T-Handle Come-along tool, Part number A2000020-1 for male and A2000020-2 for female. Also, get some A101208 lubricant to make it go together smoothly.

IMHO, if you got the wire through the cable entry of the insulator, it should get by the ring with enough persuasion and lube.

Are you using these in a Theatre (an NEC Article 520 venue)? If so, you can only use them on grounding conductors down to #6 AWG--otherwise you need to be at #2AWG or larger for single conductor cables--which dictates E1016 rather than E1015 connectors.

ST


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## ship (Oct 16, 2009)

*Re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors*

What brand of plug are you using? Normally they are say for a ECT 16 series from Leviton sized in plug as either #2-2/0 or 2/0 thru 4/0. Interesting this feeder cable from Creative Stage Lighting is larger than will fit at #4 assuming normally on a CamLoc type plug its stated wire gauge is one size for say type W feeder over what you are using in the norm of type SC in OD. of the cable. Recently read about a new feeder cable but forgot who made it, thanks for the "this is the one I read about."

Still though on a boot (outer shell of the plug) it should have been a few cutoffs marked on it to which you can cut for the size of jacket you are using. If using 4/0 SC cable on a normal plug you cut the boot to 3/0 size in actual size of the cable. It than slips on properly with or without denatured alcohol, wire lube or even WD-40.

Boots once on the cable once cut to outer jacket size the lest of the problem, often even a connector sized for up to #2 cable will in set screw bottom out in set screw before it gets to a proper hold on the cable. Often when doing smaller than listed size cable or even the smallest size of cable I find that I need to shim up that cable installed so as to fit the connector. This could range from a bunch of #12 solid wire shoved into the plug hole as filler to extra or thicker copper foil wraps of the wire. Depends on the situation as long as you are torque wrenching I believe to the norm of 120 foot pounds as needed to the set screws. I normally do 125# as a base for strands of wire settling. 

Overall concept is that once you get to the brass, either for #2 or smaller, you need to add filler so as not to bottom out the set screw before it homes in on proper tension.

This and the 14ga. wire strain relief is really really important to do properly. Too loose and the outer protection jacket cable slips and fails, too tight by way or more than say half sunk in depth on the outer jacket and it breaks. 

Twist too tight and it breaks, front tip of the linesmens pliers too sharp and it cuts if a need for even putting them on a wire wheel to a grinder and rounding out that front edge before use.

Anyway as a general concept, its possible that the OD of this cable is larger than will fit inside the boot. There should be some notches on that boot, find the next notch and cut to the next size if it don't fit.

Also remember that if doing something not specifically trained in... one should seek out qualified inspection training and observation over what you are doing. I do it, you also have to when not absolutely sure on stuff. Eyes on site cannot be replaced by on-line advise.


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## ac30boy (Oct 16, 2009)

*Re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors*

Gentlemen,

All of your replies are greatly appreciated. A few more pieces of info (now that I'm home and staring at the wire and E1015's:
1. The wire is type SC - I assume that implies a standard jacket size for #4 wire?
2. I will be using this for sound system power distro - it's inadequate for lighting. I apologize to anyone who believes I'm mis-posting by using this board, but lighting guys know boatloads more about power distribution than your average sound guy (like me).
3. I did cut the entry point on the wire side of the insulator and the wire passes through their with a very reasonable amount of effort, especially if I apply a little liquid soap. That was the recommendation right from the installation instructions from Crouse-Hinds, but I would be glad to get the lubricant and come-along tool. I'm a little hesitant to shave off some of the jacket if I can somehow get it to pass the ring.
4. JD - I did intentionally get the E1015's because the E1016's required larger gauge wire than I own or planned to get soon. Hopefully, I wasn't being pennywise and pound foolish? When full-out I currently take out 2 Macrotech 3600's, an XTI4000, and an ITech4000 - plus, I will use the distribution for band backline use. When I go out to do smaller venues and quiter bands I found that I can easily run one Macrotech and the XTI off of a wall outlet when running no lower than 4 ohms/side and I see 120+ volts at idle.

If I can provide any more info that would help let me know.

Regards,
Tom


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## LightStud (Oct 16, 2009)

*Re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors*


ac30boy said:


> I did intentionally get the E1015's because the E1016's required larger gauge wire than I own or planned to get soon. Hopefully, I wasn't being pennywise and pound foolish?


Regarding the use of single pole connectors, NEC Article 520 stubbornly makes no exceptions for either noise boys or intended load, and an electrical inspector won't either.

In this application, the connectors are wrong, as is the wire.


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## FatherMurphy (Oct 16, 2009)

*Re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors*

Just for the record, my comment about the tapered boot size was intended to go with the caution about overstripping, since when the boot is cut for the largest wire, it's at its shortest length, thus providing the least amount of protection.

As for 'sharpening' the insulation, I generally put the shell on first, then strip, so the thinned portion would be removed during stripping. Stripping first usually just leads to the strands getting bent and makes them lay in the contact socket less politely.


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## ac30boy (Oct 16, 2009)

*Re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors*

LightStud,

Are you saying the code is in reference to both fixed installations as well as temporary (portable)? And, is limited to theatrical environments or any place of assembly? I had a construction codes course many years ago when I was working on a certificate in construction management, but we didn't spend much time on the electrical codes - most of the time was on structure-related codes.


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## derekleffew (Oct 16, 2009)

*Re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors*

ac30boy, see this thread: Cam-Lok E1015 series. (In fact, merging this thread with that one.)

This and the above 12 posts have been moved here from another location.


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## ac30boy (Oct 17, 2009)

*Re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors*

Anyone looking for a great deal on some E1015 connectors and #4 wire? ;->


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## JD (Oct 17, 2009)

Actually, it is a shame you didn't drop by here first. Most sound guys that I know use 6/4 (single phase) or 6/5 (three phase) cable and pin & sleeve connectors (4 or 5 pin as needed.) This may actually have been a cheaper way to go. It is important to know that this type of setup is designed to be post power distro so that current is limited for the wire gauge. You would of course NEVER want to have a 6/4 cable tied directly to a 200 amp disconnect! Beyond that, TOS does not allow us to instruct or give electrical advice. (In fact I might be pushing that already.) So, I will leave you with this, hopefully within TOS statement: Contact a qualified person (as specified by the NEC) and indicate what you need, and ask about basing the system on multi-cable and pin & sleeve connectors. 

The #4 cable should be easy to sell as it is used in ground applications. Carnival companies use a lot of the E1015's (don't ask) so if you have one local, they might have interest. Of course there is always Ebay.


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