# Safety Cables



## ship

This is why you don't make Home Made safety cables unless other than of standard type. 

How many safety or liability problems can there be found with this "safety cable" I found today that came back from a show? (Someone else's gear and they won't be getting it back.)

I'll start it off, it failed the Go/No Go gauge.



Code:


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## Radman

Ahh I CAN find something wrong with this. There is not enough sticking out of the sleeves, and that bend around the clip is too tight.

I'm slightly worried now because it appears that safety cables actually are that important and we don't use them much at all. Only where c-clamps aren't used. Plus we have a hanfull that look like that one, except slightly better (sometimes) in construction. Mostly this is due to the fact the I was taught that it's more likely that the pipe will fall than it is the clamp will fail. I sometimes will use a safety cable when moving lights and take them off, but generally we dont use them on pipes. I've never evenherad of a clamp failing. At least not one of the heavy duty c's!


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## Mayhem

ship said:


> I'll start it off, it failed the Go/No Go gauge.



Not familiar with this expression - care to explain?


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## ship

The first answer if you look closely at the loop end you will see some of the wire rope ending at the end of the wire oval sleeve. The snap hook end is at the wrong angle to see if or if not it's the same. The wire rope should extend only to the edge of the sleeve. Less than this and it's not being crimped, more than this and while not a problem in holding, it will snag splinter etc. the users of the safety cable.

You are correct however on the second part of the answer in minimum bending radius of 7x19 Galvanized Aircraft Cable.

If you are not using C-Clamps, what are you using? In any case, the advent of the safety cable was because of C-Clamps failing. While these days they are much safer, the intent is still there because of them, much less for all other applications. All it takes is a gorilla with a 10" C-Wrench and you will note a very bent clamp. Once something that's cast is bent, it's no longer structural. No doubt it was more common for clamps in the past or from China to break rather than bend but once bent it has failed.
Beyond this, given clamps are known to break, or not be clamped down sufficiently - forgot, or the screw provided in modern fixtures in my opinion are often too short, the safety cable is still very necessary for any fixture used overhead.

I agree that I'm less seeing a Heavy Duty C-Clamp fail - either the 2" pipe Altman or the standard ETC clamp. The more old style normal Altman type clamps I see bent often. They more stip out or the 1/2-13 screw is loose to the point if only 1" long it could fall more so than them bending or breaking. On the other hand, it's necessary.

Question beyond the 10" wrench is shock loading or what hits the fixture. Since it's cast material, it has a lot less resistance to impact than other bent forms.


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## propmonkey

i wrap our saftey cables twice around and i make sure i have one on each, i cant fly the pipe up unless theres one on each, though if the instrumnet has a hook like a source 4 or parellipshperes i try to use 2, one around the yoke and one in the hook.


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## ccfan213

I went to home depot once to see if i could just make safety cables and they told me that the handheld crimping tool they had was not powerful enough to be reaonably sure that it would hold. they told me that when safety cables are made they use a motorized crimping too. so my question to those of you who are making your own cables is, are you using a handheld tool or a power tool in crimping it?


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## Lisa

It looks a little discolored/rusted on the right side - would that pose any sort of hazard?


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## avkid

ccfan213 said:


> I went to home depot once to see if i could just make safety cables and they told me that the handheld crimping tool they had was not powerful enough to be reaonably sure that it would hold. they told me that when safety cables are made they use a motorized crimping too. so my question to those of you who are making your own cables is, are you using a handheld tool or a power tool in crimping it?



Nico-Press crimp tools are expensive, like about $90 US


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## PATech

We are rather religious about safetying our instruments. In the black box there is no need because if an instrument were to fall, it would be stopped by the tension wire grid.

In the proscenium theatre, all of our underbalcony positions are rigged with Uni-strut. Unfortunately, there isn't really any way to safety cable those instruments, but everything over the stage and house that's mounted to a pipe has a safety cable.


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## ship

PATech said:


> Uni-strut. Unfortunately, there isn't really any way to safety cable those instruments,.



How about a 1/4" unistrut nut, 1/4" unistrut washer and drop forged shoulder eye bolt to safety to? Intent is to provide an alternative means of holding the fixture, doesn't mean you have to wrap around the conduit it's hung from.

"It looks a little discolored/rusted on the right side - would that pose any sort of hazard?"

Yes it would but in this case it's rubbed off gold paint. Who ever made these cables intended to keep them and used the paint to mark them as theirs. Now since there is no name on the gear it's just a question of tracking down who uses gold paint to say "hey, this stuff is ours."


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## ship

Mayhem said:


> ship said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'll start it off, it failed the Go/No Go gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not familiar with this expression - care to explain?
Click to expand...


Good question, anyone care to explain?


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## jonhirsh

Hey this is what i have never understood, why would you make your own saftey cables when you can buy one for 3-4 dollars at the most expensive fist of all when you buy it you have someone to blame if it fails that more then likely has insurance to cover the damage from there faulty product. and second how much money really could you save by making them your self realy lets say they cost 2 dollars insted of 3 in the large picture unless you need hundreds of them its probbaly cheeper to buy them not to mention the man power costs of making them. 


buy your safty chains.

JH


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## Mayhem

Yep - I am with you on that one. From what I understand the savings on making them in bulk yourself are still not enough to make it worth it.

Provided that you use them correctly and ensure they are rated for the item they will prevent from falling, then the liability if one fails will rest with the manufacturer.

Can anyone remember what the rating specs are. 3x the weight of the item comes to mind but I am not sure if this is correct. i.e. if your can weighs 2kg then the minium breaking load of the safety chain needs to be 6kg (Based on the 1:3 ratio if in fact this is correct)


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## soundman

GO/NO GO 
something I rememer from my rigging class. When is Compression sleeves (I think thats the real name and Nico press is a trade name) or a varity of other conectors it is important to check to make sure they are plenty tight. I GO/NO GO is simply a piece of metal or plastic with a bunch of groves or slots cut into it that you put the fitting in. If it fits it is a go, if it dosn't fit crimp again.

************cheating********************
I pulled out my stage rigging handbook and it said to leave an 1/8 out side of the sleeve. I guess this is so at a quick glance you know that it crimps the whole thing. 
aren't there supposed to be 3 crimps and a copper sleeve or has that changed since printin.g of the book


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## Radman

ship said:


> ...If you are not using C-Clamps, what are you using?...



Uni-Strut, direct bolt, angle irons for smaller lights, plenty of options beyond Mr. C-clamp! Gaff tape, hot-glue...

I see what you mean about the bent clamps. I am disappointed to say that half our clamps are twisted, stripped, bent or otherwise deformed in some way. I wish we could afford new ones. And more safety cables. I need to get a camera of my own, I've got so many "what's wrong with THIS?" items I'm stuck with using, the younger padawans would be learning nonstop!


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## ship

John figured out the hard one. There is three more very important problems with the safety cable in question yet to go I noted about it. Should be fairly obvious.


Good on the Go/No Go gauge, but if it failed the test, because you always close the tool until it locks, the crimp failing would indicate a tool that is out of adjustment. Very dangerous to fall into a false sense of security with these tools in thinking that just because it's crimped, it's safe. You will note in the tool manual also that the tools are supposed to be sent in for adjustment once a year. I'm more for verifying with the gauge each time it's used. There is also a different gauge for Stainless Steel verses other types of oval sleeve. 

Average pricing on the tool is more like in the $150.00 range for a good price.


I will have put the manufacturered cable question like this:
Does not use traceable elements. All rigging is required by liability to have traceable elements to it. In other words parts making it up that can be traced back to the manufacturer or supplier, this as a pre-made safety cable that's bought assembled should be able to be tracked back to the source. 

Since in this case it's "found safety cable", and cited above to be obviously home made, should there be a problem with it, it's use would make the user not the manufacturer liable. Much less since the parts of it used cannot be attributed to any specific manufacturer or supplier, the end user is very liable for this cable when it fails and this cable has a really good chance of failing. Had I made the cable in the case of an unstandard length it will have been a different story by necessity. Given of course it will have been made properly.

Given a snap hook probably costs about $2.50 each, and say another $0.25 for the Nico Sleeves/ovals the best you could hope for would be breaking even on making it yourself verses buying a safety cable.


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## SketchyCroftPpl

I don't know what its called off the top of my head but there isn't any protection on the wire loop to stope ware from the caribeaner thing from moving. I know thats not why it failed but it could have been another thing that could have done so later. 

~Nick


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## ship

Did someone delete their post in having one part of the right answer? Yes it was correct in minimum bending radius. Re-post because you noted something that you should credit yourself for noting.


The snap hook or as McMaster calls them "Load-Rated Snaps" has what's called a eye to it which is used to retain the wire rope loop. The snap hook is not the problem in this case thought they frequently will rust bend or fail.

Frequently in rigging one will use a "thimble" to prevent the wire rope from bending beyond it's minimum bending radius. New Euro safety cables some day might become our standard in using at least a smaller "AN" type thimble. Always wondered about bending radius of the wire rope verses the snap hook dia. In any case, It's when a question of how tight that cable is wrapped around the snap hook correct in being a wee bit too tight in my opinion.

Carabineer's are repelling D-shaped items for wrapping rope around.
Snap hooks are similar in principle but are of other than D or augmented D shape and much smaller. Their intent is to do industrial latching but not much rated for overall load or repelling.

While it's hopeful that you get to speak without having to do research into terms, unfortunately where the difference between safety items are concerned, giving the wrong term can be very dangerous. Much less in me posting say mcmaster.com # 3716t51 as common verses for example http://www.peaktrading.com/productpages/default.aspx?ProductPageId=1709 in even the website noting that it's not something you want to climb with unless you double up and reverse, yet similar to a snap hook. 

Similar concept and even latch mechanism, but should a aluminum carabeener be bent in an incorrect way, it won't function properly. Much less a aluminum carabeener won't get along well with galvanized aircraft cable.

Neither is ideal, but the steel will hold up better and be more cost effective. In saying carabeener, one might think they can go to their local Sport Mart and buy what is acceptable for a safety cable snap hook - especially even settle on a key chain version. 

Thus the correct term is important. Just wait until you spend a few $K a day as a buyer. At such points if you use the wrong term, you get what you ask for - given even the sales staff is compitent.

Don't know if it's any help in me and some others knowing what you mean in not meaning a carabeener but others would not. That's the intent.

Still by my count three vey basic problems with this "safety cable."


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## Mayhem

I think you are referring to the following post by Radman (first reply to your original question):


Radman said:


> Ahh I CAN find something wrong with this. There is not enough sticking out of the sleeves, and that bend around the clip is too tight.
> 
> I'm slightly worried now because it appears that safety cables actually are that important and we don't use them much at all. Only where c-clamps aren't used. Plus we have a hanfull that look like that one, except slightly better (sometimes) in construction. Mostly this is due to the fact the I was taught that it's more likely that the pipe will fall than it is the clamp will fail. I sometimes will use a safety cable when moving lights and take them off, but generally we dont use them on pipes. I've never evenherad of a clamp failing. At least not one of the heavy duty c's!


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## propmonkey

are you sure thats homemade? most of ours look like that(40+) we have some homemade ones(dont use much) that have copper nico sleves. we just bought 10 new saftey cables i wish we had more of them.

i was taught to do 3 crimps not 2. and the loop on the connector side looks to small.


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## ricc0luke

propmonkey said:


> i wrap our saftey cables twice around and i make sure i have one on each, i cant fly the pipe up unless theres one on each, though if the instrumnet has a hook like a source 4 or parellipshperes i try to use 2, one around the yoke and one in the hook.



Since we only have one for each instrument, I make a slip knot around the yoke and pipe and then clip the end on to the instrument.


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## ship

propmonkey said:


> i was taught to do 3 crimps not 2. and the loop on the connector side looks to small.




Ding Ding Ding!!! we have another reason this cable's unsafe. Two more rationals that it's unsafe to go.

This was the first reason I noted and very important.

Expert and amature alike should have noted this. Well done and if anyone disserves the gold star swag on this one you do.


Connector side size of loop has already been covered, this end of the cable is done in what you should note about it.




propmonkey said:


> are you sure thats homemade? most of ours look like that(40+) we have some homemade ones(dont use much) that have copper nico sleves. we just bought 10 new saftey cables i wish we had more of them.



Hmm, copper nico slieves, hint hint hint. Now where did I read something about the type of Nico sleeve in use before for rigging purposes?


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## tenor_singer

I just wanted to throw this out in case there are theaters that do not do this. 

This was the first year that we have been able to purchase some barn-doors for our 8" fresnels. While we do safety all of our lights and satellite dimmer packs, we weren't sure whether it would be necessary to safety the doors. Just to be safe, we did (luckily).

A week later, our gym teacher... who could care less about the drama program and decided to offer bonus points to the student who kicked a ball and dented a fixture... was playing kick ball with his classes. A ball hit a barn door and knocked it out of the ... I don't know the technical term for them ... gel holders that hold the barn door as well. Had it not been safty cabled, it would have fallen 40' and landed on the head of one of the students lingering under the light baton.

I had a very long talk with our building principal about our gym teacher's attitude. They now play floor hockey during tech week.

I guess in hind site, had I hung footballs up there, he would have been more respectful... leading me to think that I should paint my fixtures brown with a couple of tiny :roll: white stripes in the center


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## SketchyCroftPpl

Thats a really stupid thing to do, I'm surprised that even if your gym teacher didn't have any respect for the equipment or anything she would have realized that stuff could have fallen off of there and hurt someone.

~Nick


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## jonhirsh

its intresting because when ever i buy used or new lights its not even an option to get it with out a saftychain it just shows up and has one same with used or new barn doors its not like its a law that they have to do this its just there standard way of selling equipment i think all distributers should do the same thing


JH


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## SuperCow

Another thing that's important to safety chain are the gobo wheels that fit onto the front of fixtures (the ones with a wheel that is patterned that fits on them in front). 

Those things are big, and heavy, and all that they are sitting in are the gel frame holders. Those things fall out really easily.


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## SketchyCroftPpl

What type of gobo are you talking about? We use ones that fit into the front of our source fours but they are just little pieces of metal (circles with patterns like you say) and they have fallen out but they seem to only weigh a few ounces if that. So I'm just wondering which ones that you mean.

~Nick


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## SuperCow

These ones have a diameter of about one foot. They rotate in front of the fixture from a center point that is above the barrel.

Basically, the moral of this story is: safety chain everything. Better safe than sorry.


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## SketchyCroftPpl

Oh cool, we don't have anything that works like that so I just wanted to know. I get the moral of it and everything that is dangerous or can have a safety is at my school.

~Nick


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## jonhirsh

I think he is talking about a gobo rotator for example

http://rosco.com/us/motioneffects/vortex.asp


hope i am right lol
JH


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## propmonkey

those are what we have and i always saftey cable them. with the 6" barndoors we have i cant put a saftey cable on them.

on the left side, a few inches below the loop it looks like the cable is becoming untwisted.

but yeah i just collected all my extra saftey cables, of all the ones i have not in use(we cleared our pipes) 95% all look like that.


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## SketchyCroftPpl

ouch ... what are you going to do about all those bad ones. I'm assuming cause theres no other pic you ment they looked like the orginal picture. I think some of the problem is that people don't realize that just because something looks good or like something they've seen in a picture that the little differences can have BIG effects like not having it crimped 3 times and not having the ends sticking out and such. 

~Nick


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## ship

Some barn doors for the Studio line have a wire frame to them whilch is easy to safety cable to but frequently needs improvement to the design to get the barn doors to retain position. I'll deal with that as long as it's easy to safety cable thru the wire. Others have a little steel loop sticking out of the fixture that should be sufficient to safety them. Otherwise, Yep, you got it, barn doors, top hats, even gobo rotatators or normal gobos if the fixture does not swivel and the gobo is at an angle, should if at all possible be safetied. Note that you don't in a absolute sense have to use a stock safety cable for this given the weight and you can clip to the main safety cable in having a shorter length, but otherwise given a fact that it could easily fall, some modification to the equipment should be a good idea in making it safe.

I also caution on being similar or being the same as the photo. It's possible that a safety cable made with copper nico sleeves that test properly with the go/no-go gauge, even if home made but in good condition (three "good" crimps still required as a huge thing to note) will be perfectly fine. Such practice is safe when constructed properly. Be cautious about what is other than manufactured equipment, but do not go into panic mode instantly unless it shows signs of bad practice immediately. Do a test - such a Go/No-Go plate even if you don't own the tool is cheap. 

Given it's assumed that the photo clearly shows a aluminum oval sleeve crimped to the wire rope, it is evident that it is the #4 reason this safety cable is to be removed from service. Sorry but even if your hardware store stocks them and says it's the same thing, there is a large difference between the intended use of them that is useful for reinforcing a wood gate and what you use in shock loading or good practice. In the past I was a fan of aluminum crimps. A past post on stagecraft by Bill Sapsis brought the shock loading value to my attention. Since than I have not gone back.

There is however zinc plated copper nico sleeves on the market these days. Just because it's silver in color thus does not mean it's unsafe. If aluminum, and if absolutely necessary by budget to keep, use it for your barn doors. It has the same load rating as the copper sleeve, just does not do that well in a falling condition. Mark such cables say with a gaff tape banner on it that says it's usefulness or problem if on a absolute budget and otherwise safe. Otherwise and in general when a safety cable, (hint to the last two problems) if it shows a problem, don't just throw it out, cut it up so it can't be used. Same with carabeeners - I do mean them in this instance, or any other piece of rigging up to and including a spanset with holes. Even the hand line for the fly system cut up. If unsafe for you, you are still liable to an extent for something someone trash picks. This is not "Junkyard wars" in finding gear you might use to build a contraption with. (much of it - especially the brand new tires and $180.00 bearings are pre-requested and staged even if trashed or brand new in having to be safe as a note that's important.) You in theory know what you are doing. Some totally trashed pickup truck you might follow on the street some day that's overloaded with scrap metal on the other hand might have found your old rope and be using it up until the point a refrigerator falls on the hood of your new car. This is a minimum type of thing. Some kid might find your old rope or gear and choose to make a swing or climbing rope off it. Don't matter if you tossed it out or not, that kid falls, you are at fault legally and to even if innocent still in some way responsible. Cut that stuff up before disposing of it.


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## SketchyCroftPpl

I can't tell exactly, but are those carabeeners designed to take weight? I know EMS sells two kids, one for taking weight and one for using on a belt clip / lanyard or with keys. They looks very similar (I couldn't tell the difference besides price) so I'm guessing it would be very easy for someone who was making their own safetly cables to go for the cheeper ones not knowing that they wern't designed for that purpose. However, like I said I can't tell from that picture if they are the right kind for the job and broke anyway or if they were the keychain kind that was never supposed to carry actual weight.

~Nick


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## avkid

Look what I found:
Cable Termination with Nicopress® Sleeves & Tools Video
http://www.jrclancy.com/limitswitchVideo.htm


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## SketchyCroftPpl

Cool vid, its pretty informative but they don't tell much about the go/no go process.

~Nick


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## ship

SketchyCroftPpl said:


> I can't tell exactly, but are those carabeeners designed to take weight? I know EMS sells two kids, one for taking weight and one for using on a belt clip / lanyard or with keys. They looks very similar (I couldn't tell the difference besides price) so I'm guessing it would be very easy for someone who was making their own safetly cables to go for the cheeper ones not knowing that they wern't designed for that purpose. However, like I said I can't tell from that picture if they are the right kind for the job and broke anyway or if they were the keychain kind that was never supposed to carry actual weight.
> 
> ~Nick



Each carabeener that is rated for use will have manufacturer's stamp and a load rating I believe in Kilo-Newtons. In addition to a UIAA or ? other standards of design compliance stamp. Because the key chain looks like one, that makes it dangerous to those that don't know better. In fact, there is no load rading on a key chain and beyond keys should never be used for other than that purpose. 

"I'm guessing it would be very easy for someone who was making their own safetly cables to go for the cheeper ones not knowing that they wern't designed for that purpose."
Let me be very clear. Neither is designed for use other than in repelling or holding keys. Much less you should not use a carabeener for keys nor a key chain for repelling.

You should not be making safety cables with them or be using them for other than repelling and rope work. If you have a drop line to pull parts up to the grid, shure, if you have to repell down from the grid to get into a place above the set, sure. If you have fall protection on, yes - as long as steel and designed for that purpose. This is all repelling or similar. You do not attach wire rope to them, nor use them for safety cables.

The design and materials used for repelling gear are in no way similar to those used for rigging or equipment safety. Oval carabeeners have just as much weight on the gate as the other side and should be avoided other than for specific purposes in repelling. Aluminum in general is lighter but is also much more prone to damage. Where high strength or resistance to abuse is needed newer styles of steel should be used. The end tabs on a carabiner gate cannot hold much weight and can snap when exposed to forces between 500 and 2,500#. Carabiners get weak from repeated stress, once exposed to this or showing wear they need to be replaced.

While the steel snap hook with eye is also not the ultimate in design, it is however designed for this purpose, much less is much smaller and less expensive. One decent carabeener - much less one with some form of lock to the latch will cost many times that of a pre-built safety cable or any of the other components.


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## SketchyCroftPpl

Yes I was saying that a carabeener that was designed for keys should only be used for keys, sorry if that wasn't clear.

~Nick


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## ship

I understood that, but you also mentioned using a carabiner proper for safety cable. You were worried about a key chain used for safety cable as opposed to a carabiner.

I was saying that neither a key chain, nor a carabiner should not be used on a safety cable.

In re-reading your post, it's kind of confusing. While you mention taking weight and safety cables in the same paragraph, there is nothing you said specifically stating an intent to use carabiners for safety cables. Just a fear that someone would use the key chain type for them.

I apologize for jumping to this conclusion if that un-stated link I drew was not intended to be assumed.


The photo shows repelling carabiners that had their gates bend from use/abuse. They were cut with a Sawzall before being thrown out.


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## SketchyCroftPpl

ok, nvm then.

~Nick


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## Mayhem

avkid said:


> Look what I found:
> Cable Termination with Nicopress® Sleeves & Tools Video
> http://www.jrclancy.com/limitswitchVideo.htm



Thanks for the link.

I noticed that in the video, they used a chart that prescribed the correct number of crimps to provide maximum strength. Interestingly enough, some sleeves only required 2 or even 1 crimp.


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## propmonkey

all of ours have silver colored nicio clips. the few of the home made ones we have are copper. we have a box and a half of copper nicio clips. right now i have about 30 cables sitting around(ill see if i can get a pic) if i can i wrap mine around twice to minimize shock weight.

whats the difference in the copper, aluminium, and zinc nico clips?


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## propmonkey

one last question, how do i adjust the nico press(i highly doubt its ever been done with ours) and where can i get a go/nogo gauge?


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## ship

If silver in appearance but coming from a factory, it's not to be worried much about as long as in good condition. Perhaps contact your supplier and ask. Most factory crimps will be one large crimp done by a machine. Different materials - probably steel.

Copper and zinc plated copper are what's proper to be using where other than in a static position that does not have life safety involved. Zinc plating is just a plating for more corrosion resistance.

By a go/no-go gauge and test the home made ones, could be all right. Always follow the manufacturer instructions on how many crimps to make as well as maintinence of the tool. Did for 1/8" wire rope it say two or three crimps? Smaller wire rope might not require as many crimps both because the jaws are larger and the crimp is smaller. Follow the instructions.

Go-No/Go gauges can be bought by any rigging or otherwise suppliers that sell the tools. It's important that while any gauge should be the same, that you still attempt to get the same brand of gauge as the tool. Sapsis Rigging would be one amongst many sources.

Do not attempt to adjust the tool unless you have the manual in hand and it's telling you how to do so, much less the liabilty of the place you are at will allow you to adjust this tool. If it's off, send it in for proper adjustment. Such tools are delecate and under high pressure. Tighten a screw in the wrong way and it could pop in going thru your eye.


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## ship

> Just a bit concerned about the safety cables that I bought from Fisher 
> Theatrical when I was in the US last year, after reading the recent post 
> around this topic.
> 
> 1. No ratings or other stampings on the snap lock
> 2. The sleeves are Aluminium and appear to be machine pressed
> 
> Should I be concerned?

Fischer Theatrical has the liability on these safety cables, they have also been around a long time and have a very good name for themselves in safety and experence amongst other rigging or theater suppliers - All Bulbs, Barbizon, Texas Theatrical, TMB, Starlight Global, Fher Brothers, Peak Trading, and many many more to note just a few. Most will be buying the same equipment or buying from a common supplier of either 3/16" or 1/4" both of which have their uses though 1/4" is a little more damage resistant in being worth a little more money.

The aluminum is probably of a different composition or grade than that of the hardware store variety given it's not steel. Believe I see safety cables with both type of crimp and they are fine, nor am I suspect. You will also note that it's a completely different type of crimp used.

The snap hook used does not have to have a load rating stamped on it at this time. It's rating is published and safe enough for it's purpose. The company that made the safety cable will ensure the quality and compliance of stuff they sell. 
In the end, I'm a buyer and not an expert on the process of manufacturered safety cables. I don't have the time nor the factory type of press needed nor do I want the liability. Instead I buy my safety cables when at all possible. Just bought another 100 this month, can't buy the parts for what I'm paying someone else to make it for me.


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