# How many cordless drills do you normally have in use during a project?



## ship (Apr 14, 2010)

While I have an APEX QR-M-490-A magnetic quick release power bit holder for my favored pistol grip at home, and a second in a secure place at work - so more of them don’t get “lost” , I find it easier to have a second drill - my old T-handle already set up for my countersink bit with the power bit lock. (Expensive bit holder, normally at work I just supply the “ok” Wiha but the APEX is the best on the market even over Black & Decker similar but reverse pull one.) Than at home a third cordless - the right angle with a #30 drill bit so as to further pilot hole for longer screws or be ready to drill for or out rivets. The quick release bit holder is useful on-site for interchanging bits, but easier to grab another drill if in shop conditions. 
At work for normally metal working or plastics projects, I also often have a hoast of pistol grip and T-Handles in use all with different bits on my work table. Normally the case of not enough holes to use the drill press, but just enough to warrant more than one cordless drill. All of course shop or home, 14.4v in balancing weight verses battery life as a standard. At work also more than one drill out and ready to switch between in doing stuff where I really should be using the corded drills at least. 

Anyone note the need for more than just one cordless drill in speeding up the operation?

Urr.. Your Dremmel tool is on fire... got me also to buy a more powerful rotary tool in addition to replacing the fourth tool in eleven years.. for quick stuff. A hoped for no more power tool fires in my Department is the norm now also.


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## erosing (Apr 14, 2010)

The majority of my work these days involves me keeping a step bit in my Milwaukee drill, twists, forstners, paddles, etc in an old Black and Decker t-handle, and then I keep whatever screwdriver tip I need in a Black and Decker cordless screwdriver (unless I need more power, then I'll put it into the Black and Decker t-handle).


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## kicknargel (Apr 15, 2010)

ship said:


> Urr.. Your Dremmel tool is on fire... got me also to buy a more powerful rotary tool in addition to replacing the fourth tool in eleven years.. for quick stuff. A hoped for no more power tool fires in my Department is the norm now also.



What rotary tool did you get? I've been looking to get away from Dremmel.


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## soundman (Apr 15, 2010)

When I pretend to be a carpenter I have been known to use 3 screw guns for things. To build a platform with legs for example I will have you to shoot drywall screws, one with a twist bit to drill a hole for the leg bolt and another with a spade bit to drill a recess for the carriage bolt.


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## Footer (Apr 15, 2010)

Isn't this the solution to the problem....


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## avkid (Apr 15, 2010)

Footer said:


> Isn't this the solution to the problem....



If Ridgid made one, possibly.
Mansfield makes garbage.


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## Footer (Apr 15, 2010)

avkid said:


> If Ridgid made one, possibly.
> Mansfield makes garbage.



But it looked so perfect on TV!

....now... I'm going fishing.... after I dry some jerky.... and roast a turkey.....


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## Anvilx (Apr 15, 2010)

I prefer to do the 2 drill thing when I can If say I need to drill pilot holes and drive screws.

At school when am working with a friend we usally end up commendeering 3 or so drills (of the maybe 6 working drills) plus a surge protector...
Hmm, even though we ~50% of the avialable drills we still end up doing 70% of the work...


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## BrianWolfe (Apr 15, 2010)

Two 18v DeWalts, one to drill the other to drive, and a drill press for the tough stuff.


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## ship (Apr 16, 2010)

kicknargel said:


> What rotary tool did you get? I've been looking to get away from Dremmel.



Was thrown in chosing between the 1/3 and 1/6 horsepower tools but finally settled on the McMaster Carr 4454A75 . 

Turns out it's a big and powerful tool sufficient and I bought right. Just using a hand Dremmel 300 at home tonight and was worried about how hot it was getting in just grinding down some screw heads with an abrasive grinder wheel. This given my last Dremmel rotery tool with flexiable shaft at work really did catch on fire. (My mistake in turning it on again to cool it...)

Nice tool but that foot switch will be changed out with a table mounted reostat dimmer once I get one of a collection prepped - time.


Recently had some projects where at lower speed and in long amounts of time in operating that such a tool was very valuable. Nope... no permission, normally I don't ask anyway, but in this case I would stand by this tool buy as really valuable to have. It's collets if you forget the provided ones at work, while not the stame are also workable with the dremmel system. Different but similar tools if you get the proper wand. Much less chance you will melt it down in more money but well worth it.

I did replace the Dremmel on a flexible cord (second replacement of it) for usefulnes on quick things, but the investment in the bigger tool was also really a good thing in me not killing off more Dremmels. Think I'm up to like four now.


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## ship (Apr 16, 2010)

Footer said:


> Isn't this the solution to the problem....



EEK!!!

Do you use one?


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## dramatech (Apr 16, 2010)

Being a community theatre, we have quite a few volunteers, mostly retired folks. We therefore have quite a few cordless drill/screwguns. Our present count is:
5ea 18volt DeWalts
3ea 18volt Black & Decker
3ea 14volt Makita

During strike, all of the units are in use.


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## jonliles (Apr 16, 2010)

2 18V Ryobi - one for pilot holes, one for driving screws
1 12V B&D - Small Stuff, like attaching skins to flats.
1 Corded 3/8" chuck Ryobi w/ Clutch for big stuff (driving lags, mixing paint, changing tires...yep tires - this thing is a beast)
1 B&D electric screw driver - really small stuff


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## shiben (Apr 16, 2010)

dramatech said:


> Being a community theatre, we have quite a few volunteers, mostly retired folks. We therefore have quite a few cordless drill/screwguns. Our present count is:
> 5ea 18volt DeWalts
> 3ea 18volt Black & Decker
> 3ea 14volt Makita
> ...



We is a college, we usually run 6 18V DeWalts during load in/out. During projects, I will usually have 2 drills handy, one for drilling and the other for driving, as mentioned above. Also, electric drills made putting new connectors on all of our cables so much easier, its not even funny.


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## Theresa (Apr 16, 2010)

We use several of these combo drill/drive bits Drill Drive Accessory System: Drill Drive Complete Units | DEWALT Tools


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## ship (Apr 17, 2010)

Interesting and thanks the above in perhaps two or three seperate topics (sorry.) 

Main question for me was about such as the above DeWalt bit holder setup others use verses what I use, and my three cordless drills, one with the Phillips and quick release, one with the countersink and another with a drill bit for longer screws. All for me at 14.4v - I'm a bit old school perhaps in liking it's weight verses power better in having started with 9.6v and skipped 12v as it came out. But in testing 18v early on, had no interest in it due to weight and by these days battery price.

Dremmel tool burning out - yea, a cautionary tail, cool tools but not what one might exect in being rugged.

Than onto the cordless inventory in-general one fields for use which is important but seperate. Enough tools you can beg, borrow or steal for a project is also important.


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## kicknargel (Apr 17, 2010)

I just noticed no one's been talking about impact drivers. IMO once you go to an impact driver you'll never want to drive a screw with a drill again. They have WAY more torque--you can pilot less and don't use nearly so much muscle driving screws. Using McFeeley's steel square drive screws (sawtooth) and a Dewalt 18V impact driver I sink 3" screws into platform frames with no drilling and no effort. Can't recommend it enough.

The other advantage is the torque and speed automatically adjust depending on the resistance, so the first half of the screw goes in quick, then as it gets tougher the speed goes down and the torque goes up. They'll drive lags, tighten bolts, etc, etc, etc.

I went with the 18V because I wanted the same battery to run all my tools, but I think some of the smaller versions are also quite nice.


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## Theresa (Apr 17, 2010)

I use my Makita impact driver most of the time (it makes up for a lack of upper body strength) but I have a bad habit of splitting wood with it.


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## dramatech (Apr 17, 2010)

I just purchased a Dewalt impact driver, and after one load out removing a ton of 3" screws, it will be my driver of choice into the future. Yes Teresa, puting screws in with the impact driver will split the wood or bury the screw, if you aren't paying attention.


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## MarshallPope (Apr 18, 2010)

We usually keep two drills going at a time per set of people - a predrill and a screwdriver. Usually times 2 or 3 concurrent projects. Our shop has 8 or so total. I don't think any of them match. We have a handful of makitas and I think a few b&ds and dewalts.


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## garyvp (Apr 18, 2010)

We use two 12v makitas - they are light, tough and not enough torque to sprain a wrist. Also, Makita has made these for years and they are still popular (no problem getting batteries). Less expensive ones did not last. For 2x4s we use 5 amp dry wall cord drills. I like the pneumatic nailers the best - we have three.


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## masterelectrician2112 (Apr 18, 2010)

Theresa said:


> I use my Makita impact driver most of the time (it makes up for a lack of upper body strength) but I have a bad habit of splitting wood with it.



I love my makita! Plus, it's the best drill that is brought to a set build! People envy me! Haha! I would never go back to a regular drill unless I had to.


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## Parker (Apr 19, 2010)

garyvp said:


> I like the pneumatic nailers the best - we have three.



nails.... no way!
what are you building... a house or a set?
we only use screws... ITS ALL ABOUT THE OUT!
Strike is my favorite time of day!


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## garyvp (Apr 19, 2010)

Nailers - We use the (Angle, brad and crown stable) nailers for small work (1x2, luan) and moulding. We do nine shows a year and have one week to mount a show and these are fast and if done right are easy to disassemble. There are certain projects you can only do with a brad nailer. The crown stapler is essential for making reusable standard flats. 

But you are right, screws are the primary fastener.


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## dcollins (Apr 20, 2010)

Usually, every last one of them. If it's a small project and there are enough, I'll take a standard drill and an impact driver, otherwise I'll use a standard drill with a driver/drill bit and countersink quick release. In terms of brand, our newest ones are ryobi, but we have a few older ones.
If I could actually justify owning and paying for my own set of tools, I would definitely buy a pair of ryobi drivers. Unfortunately, I am a poor college student, and don't really need them anyway.
Nails and staples are generally not used, but unfortunately they were necessary for a few set pieces for our last show. (Hey, let's make a ton of crates out of plywood with no internal frame! And then we'll dance on them!) They're a pain to strike.


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## ship (Apr 20, 2010)

Impact drivers are curious products I have not gotten into or tried yet. Someone in the Hoist Dpt. has a 12v DeWalt version and he swares by it. Seemingly also very reliable in that he has had at least six years now without needing send it in for repair - though I might recommend he get it lubed before long.

Interesting concept as a driver, this given I'm of the other school of interchangable bit holders so as to pilot hole and countersink than switch bits to drive the screw. But that's on-site and assuming in the shop I'm using a few drills including a right angle DeWalt which I curse, such an impact driver might become drill #3 for me as a concpt, as a concept as opposed to just getting a fourth cordless drill. Thanks for the reminder on such a thing that you are very correct on. Not (as very debatable) a base first cordless drill perhaps where one at times needs to use a cordless to both drill and gear ratios and a more normall cordless might better suit them, but second drill as a concept I think. While I do at times use the hammer drill part of of my cordless drills (softer concrete or brick/block only), I don't often use the hammer drill parts of my most favorite pistol grip drills day to day. Perfect for me would be a cordless drill that both switches on the impact driver feature in replacing the hammer drill, (pistol grip of course) and goes back to drill mode for other purposes, this and with three gear speeds. 

Forget... been a while since I last saw a impact driver, do they have normal keyless chucks and two to three speed gear changes for gear ratios in doing drill mode beyond just impact mode? 
This all also given I'm stuck on a DeWalt 14.4v system - got a lot of them and I'm not about to introduce a new battery or different brand to that system. Others similar in Makita etc. no doubt in avoiding differing batteries to their own system.

Still though very valid point in the impact driver concept for driving screws. Never used one myself, what is it like on bit life as compared to non-impact drivers? I know impact socket wrenches are alloy steel to prevent stripping or breaking. Given experience with impact drivers, are they more so strippig out especially common philips bits which rely on downward pressure in addition to torque, or for square drive say rely on less pressure but also less surface area in driving the screw in also perhaps stripping out?

Thinking this stripping of the bit and even the screw especially if less experienced with drivinug screws might be problematic but don't know. Irwin came out withsome new Philips bits recently, I switched to them at home and am on my second one in like three months - but this after allowing my nephew to use my screw gun possibly a factor. Good kid but doesn't have the power behind his driving yet. Tip to rear to shoulder of the drill alignment as a 10 year old, right or left hand use... yep, he will be carp. when he grows up. Mastered jigsaw and pneumatic stapler already also. 

Still though I'm on the fence about these new bits verses the locking toothed bits otherwise available for what lasts longer and is better. All say they are better.
Anyone else tried other bits? Seen all kinds of them on the market that "are harder."


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## dcollins (Apr 21, 2010)

I can't speak for all impact drivers, but the ryobis we have (18V) have an odd chuck where you pull an outer cylinder forwards, and then insert any regular hex bit, and it catches and holds the bit when you release the cylinder. Picture No drill mode or speed control. I wouldn't use it to drill anyway, but if you have drill bits with that hex adaptor you could at least put them in the drill and it would spin, but I don't know how effective it would be.


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## NickVon (Apr 21, 2010)

18v Bosch Brute Hammerdrill (General purpose Big drill/driver)
12v Bosch Impactor (for most standard screwing)
12v Porter Cable Drill/Driver ( for kinda everything, Underneath things, for others with less technical skills or less physical strength, or awkward uses. )
9.6v old school Makita. for whatever. 9 usually smaller things.


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## MercyTech (Apr 21, 2010)

We have 2 18v DeWalt cordless drills for construction, and a smaller cordless Makita and DeWalt drill for drilling pilot holes.

But for strike we have about 10 corded Makitas, and lots of cords centrally plugged in. I find it goes much faster on load out to have many hands with many drills, and no battery changes.

Tim


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## ajb (Apr 21, 2010)

I rarely have more than one/person out at a time. It's more efficient to do all of one operation at a time, ie-do all of your pilot holes, then all of your countersinks, and then drive all of your screws, and that largely negates any benefit to fast bit swaps. We do have a bit of trouble with having to swap around driver bits due to sometimes having 4 different drive styles of screws around: square for pocket screws, torx for GRK R4s and cabinet screws, and philips for everything else. Trying to find a good way to deal with this. Philips is just too common for those small screws we use to attach hardware and such with, the pocket screws don't give me any real choice of anything but square, and the GRK cabinet screws are just too awesome for assembling flats together to give them up. Can probably live without the R4s, though, that would help a bit. Screws are pretty much only used for final assembly/installation, so not a huge deal.

I used to have a set of Makita 12V NiMH cordless tools, but was down to 1-1/2 good batteries for 6 tools, so when I saw that I could get new 18V 3.0AH LiIon batteries for the same price as replacement 12V NiMH, I splurged on a whole set of new Makita 18V LiIon cordless tools. Got several of the cordless 1/2" hammer drills and I haven't touched a corded drill since--even when doing lots of holes in steel, notching pipe, or installing tapcons. The new cordless have plenty of power for anything I use them for, and the batteries go from dead to full charge in 20 minutes, so you can get away with fewer chargers, which is nice.


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## derekleffew (Apr 21, 2010)

While I like and use my Jack Rabbit Tool: The best drill and drive tool for all woodworking, 


in hindsight I'd rather've spent the $50 buying another cordless drill/driver, even a cheap one. Of course, I did that also. My Harbor Freight cordless hammerdrill sees light use, but works well enough. It was $19.99.

On the other hand, I cannot recommend the The Mag Ring® highly enough.

Worth every penny of the $9.99.


ajb said:


> ...the pocket screws don't give me any real choice of anything but square, ... and I haven't touched a corded drill since...


One caution, ajb: For longest life, Kreg recommends only using corded drills for their pocket screw step drill bits, due to the rotational speed.


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## kicknargel (Apr 22, 2010)

Ship,

I find that the impact are less likely to strip screw heads. Maybe because the torque is applied in short bursts (they have a rotary hammer that makes the loud noise) they almost eliminate the problem of "cam-out"--the bit doesn't want to back out of the screw recess. They also automatically spin at the optimal speed.

They really shine at driving tek screws, because they run really fast while the screw is drilling and then slow down when driving.

I think they all have a hex bit chuck. I know they make drill bits that fit, but I haven't tried drilling with one. Not really what they're for.


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## gmff (Apr 22, 2010)

*We had 4 drills and 2 impact drivers on Monday*

We are getting ready for Annie and school is out so we had a bunch of students and parents. All of the stuff was Ryobi 18v, the oldest batteries we have are 8 years old and still working great (I sold the Hitachi, I went through 4 batteries in 2 years, 14.4 seem to be junk). The impact drivers are good for students as they seem to drive screw without a lot of slipping off the head and the students don't over countersink as much as with drills, they will also pull the lumber together and make tighter joints.
The impact drivers don't seem to crack the ends of the lumber as often as drills even if we predrill and screw. It is also good now to have to run out cords all over the place, we used the cordless skill saw, sawzall, jigsaw, sander, and hand vac.



These are the drivers and drill/countersink units we use.


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## ship (Apr 23, 2010)

*Re: We had 4 drills and 2 impact drivers on Monday*

Thanks all and kickargel and gmff especially in further posts on the concept.

Above I noted how many 14.4v Cordless drills I have in the shop and home - universal tool with the same battery is really good for me if not all where possible in not having to fight for a charged battery to a tool at any part of process. Huge LED wall to construct and not a lot of time = all hands on available for as many tools and helpers one can field. Key to that is tools with universal batteries in my opinion. For the shop where I work (given I buy the tools that standardization of one battery type also means beyond that, when LekoLand needs a battery and their’s is in the charger, they just grab a fresh one from any number of departments. When - yea after two to three years they seem to go bad in constant use... it’s easier to soak up a few given a lot of the same type. 

Also helps that we are 14.4v and the carpentry shop (South building in the complex) is 18v. Given we have a different voltage types, we can charge their batteries and loan tools at times, but neither has ability or overall use for each other’s tools. This concept given lots of tools around but very different departments at least for this has caused no missing/swiped tool problems between the lighting and wood shops. I got into the 14.4v cordless tool when it first came out due to the best balance in my opinion of power to weight over the 12v. The original 18v tools were heavy - not something one wanted to carry around on a belt or shoulder harness all day long if on-site. They also were no more useful given break was every two hours and a decent battery on a 14.4v drill could last that long normally. 

That was like 12 years ago when the 18v came out - and they took years to lighten up some. Almost like the newer snub nosed versions on the market now in being lighter - though back to the days when I first tried the 18v, I was walking around a park all day in setting up events like Taste of Chicago and if you set your drill down for even a minute, it would get stolen often. The Pistol grip DeWalt on a Occidental Leather shoulder harness was easiest to carry. Still use that harness and it was made for the pistol grip, though there was another and others for the T-Handle. Point of this being, any holsters for the snub nosed tools, and or in general the extra weight of a 18v tool if carrying it about every day on your body or in hand all day long, plus an extra battery and other tools... every pound gets heavy. If extra batteries every two hours after your first two,.. Never saw the need for an 18v drill and glad for it now given the price of the 18v verses 14.4v replacement batteries.

This all being above about the DeWalt 14.4 verses the Makita 9.6v HD system I started out with years ago. Interesting to see that Ryobi has improved in quality over the years and probably. Been years since I used one of their tools in perhaps testing them again but given initial impressions or tools bought cautiously suspicious. 

Hmm, thanks on the notes on the impact driver, I’ll borrow my co-workers and give it a play test to see what it’s like for driving screws. Got three drills at home already, one normally for driving screws thus impact driver could be a better solution than just another cordless drill to replace the right angle.

Thanks.


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## manuallyfocused (Apr 30, 2010)

An impact driver is irreplaceable for driving screws. One of the places where I work is almost all 18v dewalt impact drivers- it's often tough to find a drill if you need a pilot hole or otherwise.

My personal kit has almost always included an impact driver, but they are often the first tool to disappear on a jobsite (I've had two taken so far, haven't replaced the second one yet). My first was a 14.4v ridgid that had a good amount of power but no light. My second was an 18v milwaukee that was incredibly powerful and very heavy duty, but the LED light below the chuck only went on when you were running the gun (the better guns have a two stage trigger that allows you to turn on the light without running the gun, so you can find your screw in the dark without spinning the bit). 

The best thing about them is their size and power relative to a similar cordless drill. They can boast 3-4 times to amount of available torque compared to a cordless drill counterpart, and they require so much less effort to drive long screws into harder woods (pressure treated 2x4/4x4, hardwoods, etc). This allows you to get a lower voltage (i.e., a good 12v impact driver will have more driving power than your average 18v drill) which means your batteries will probably last longer and you'll have a lighter, more easily maneuverable tool.

A note of caution about using drill bits in impact drivers- as the impacts have 1/4" hex chucks designed for short driver bits, there is often a bit of slop in the chuck that allows the bit to move around a little. This is not generally a problem for a 2-3" screwdriver bit (especially if you have one with a sliding screw guide on it) but once you've put a thin 3" drill bit or a 6" or so drill/drive bit kit on it, you'll see that as you spin the drill the end of the bit will scribe a 1/2" or so circle in the air that means your hole will be less accurate and you'll be much more likely to snap the bit. I'd use one in a pinch for drilling, but not as my go-to option. 

one other note of caution- impact drivers are very loud. If you are working in an area where there is any concern about noise, you will find yourself reaching for your drills instead because an impact can be deafening, especially in an enclosed space. Use ear protection at all times if possible.

Yet another wrinkle- if you want impact driver power in a very small package, there are an increasingly large number of "pocket driver" options from the major manufacturers. These are generally between 10 and 12 volts, use lithium ion batteries, are roughly the size of your hand, and can still drive screws with plenty of power. They're reasonably priced and extremely portable, and some come with kits (light, mini-sawzall, etc). Might be worth checking out.


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