# Correct way to stand hollywood flats upright??



## DannyDepac (Mar 3, 2017)

Hi guys,


What is the correct way to stand a Hollywood flat: 

I know I need to use a diagonal jack (kicker?) and attach it to a a 2x4 on the flat making a right triangle. But how do you correctly attach that "2x4" on the flat to the Hollywood flat? I made some yesterday and screwed through the front of my flat into the end grain of the 2x4 however I don't think thats right. 

I have one LARGE Hollywood flat still to stand up and support. It is made of 2x4s on their edge and I don't want to raise the height by attaching the feet underneath... I'm thinking of overlapping one 2x4 and screwing it into the 2x4 and then attaching the diagonal brace. what do you think


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## TheaterEd (Mar 3, 2017)

I happened to have SketchUp open, so here ya go. This is what I would do. 



I would attach the two 2 x 4s to eachother before attaching them to the flat, and then add the bottom one to level it out after.

If you aren't comfortable with just that, You could always add another vertical 2 x 4 and use an L Bracket to beef it up a bit.


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## DannyDepac (Mar 3, 2017)

TheaterEd said:


> I happened to have SketchUp open, so here ya go. This is what I would do.View attachment 14427
> 
> 
> I would attach the two 2 x 4s to eachother before attaching them to the flat, and then add the bottom one to level it out after.
> ...




Awesome thank you so much- that first one is actually what I was planning unless I heard something better back so I feel pretty good about myself! 

Thanks again


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## JChenault (Mar 3, 2017)

Please note that you might want to use 1x4 instead of 2x4. A lot lighter and plenty strong.


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## Van (Mar 3, 2017)

JChenault said:


> Please note that you might want to use 1x4 instead of 2x4. A lot lighter and plenty strong.



I was going to suggest the same thing. The only time I have ever used 2x4 on flats was when Doing a show like "Cowboy Mouth" or "Bug" where the actors are realllllllly chewing the scenery and you need to have 1/2" plywood or even 3/4" plywood walls. I always make my jacks out of 1x2 and as oppose to the version shown above, which is fine btw, I make and L out of 1x4 just like framing a corner of a studio flat. Then I build a triangle inside that 'L' of 1x4 on edge. this gives you a wider face and foot to screw into a toggle and floor.
I'll try and get you a picture later. The nice thing about the version I'm describing is that you can screw it to a couple of toggles anywhere, you don't have to add a scab, you don't have to put it on the outside edge. you can stick it in the middle of a flat. throw a screw through the foot and walk away.

Here, look at the jacks in the back of this picture. These were made with "Hog Trough" but you can make them out of "T" or strongback as well.


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## TheaterEd (Mar 3, 2017)

So Van, Something like this?


What can I say? I'm in a modeling mood at the moment.


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## Van (Mar 3, 2017)

TheaterEd said:


> So Van, Something like this?View attachment 14430
> 
> 
> What can I say? I'm in a modeling mood at the moment.


Yeah, like that. I usually put another 1x4 down the center of the upright and foot. typically I use 6', 8', 12' jacks so they can hit the toggles in the middle of the back of the studio flat. 
It's not like there is a Wrong way. having a flat face just makes them easier to screw in / mount to the back of the flat and the floor.


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## porkchop (Mar 3, 2017)

TheaterEd said:


> So Van, Something like this?View attachment 14430
> 
> 
> What can I say? I'm in a modeling mood at the moment.



This is exactly what I have done in the past. The board flat against the jacks give you a lot more room for screws. I am usually building 12' flats so the jacks I've built where 8' tall.


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## josh88 (Mar 4, 2017)

Here's what we use. They're cut on a router but they're strong, light, have space for a sandbag on the bottom, the strongback kind of l bracket back gives you a nice space to screw through and without a cnc you can cut them with a router by hand or jigsaw pretty quickly. couldn't find a better picture right now.


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## DannyDepac (Mar 7, 2017)

Thank you all for your replies. I appreciate the different views. 

one more question - do you you attach from the front of the flat? or just short enough screws from the back?


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## Van (Mar 8, 2017)

DannyDepac said:


> Thank you all for your replies. I appreciate the different views.
> 
> one more question - do you you attach from the front of the flat? or just short enough screws from the back?


Attach from the back into the framing. 1 1/4" - 1 5/8" screw is usually enough bite. Depending on the size, height and weight I may put a screw at the top ant one in the middle , or top, middle, bottom, or more if it's particularly heavy. 

And all of this aside you COULD use an old fashioned stage-brace if you can find the cleat for it.


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## sk8rsdad (Mar 8, 2017)

Van said:


> Attach from the back into the framing. 1 1/4" - 1 5/8" screw is usually enough bite.



IIRC, the OP is framing flats with 2x4 so it'd need a longer screw. Why the frames are that beefy is a question for another day...


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## bobgaggle (Mar 10, 2017)

off topic, but @josh88 what are you building? your hinge situation has me scratching my head...


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## josh88 (Mar 11, 2017)

bobgaggle said:


> off topic, but @josh88 what are you building? your hinge situation has me scratching my head...


 If I recall from seeing the rollers on the top, that was a news studio/ sports report. Wasn't my job but I think the way it was designed the piano hinges kept things tight and aligned across the panels without the need for any other kind of bracket. Since those were all built as thin led panels they could be made in pieces and assembled easier than having to wire and apply strips to the front of a whole wall.


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