# Making track quiet



## IamDeeBee (Jul 15, 2010)

Hi all, this is my first time posting and I looked through the archives but didn't quite find any info relevant to what i'm looking to know. I'm probably giving too much info, but I figure too much is better than too little.

Here's the deal.
We have a 34' run of track (McMaster-Carr) running across stage. It's in smaller segments that are connected, but it's all been leveled. 
The track is connected to the grid (about 11' from the deck) with eye bolts, chain and shackles.
In the track we have a carrier that is connected by steel rod to a 6'x8' box steel framed plexi panel. The floor has a guide cut into it and the panel has knives in the bottom.

So, functionality isn't much of an issue now, but sound is. We're trying to find a way to reduce the noise that is made as the carrier in the track guide back and forth. 

I'm sure a simple answer is to get a better track that is designed to be silent, but this track is what was within out budget.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.


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## Footer (Jul 15, 2010)

Avoid grease, it will just attract dust and make the issue worse. If your carriers are steel wheeled, first thing to do would be to insulate the wheels. Start with cleanly wrapping the wheels on the carriers in gaff or e-tape should help. Beyond that, you can lubricate the thing with either graphite or bar soap and that should help cut down on noise. Unfortunately, the barn door track that you have is not really designed to operate quietly.


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## IamDeeBee (Jul 15, 2010)

They're plastic wheels. Would graphite or barsoap still be useful in that case?

Just for giggles, if I were looking for something that would be quiet and still fairly cheap, what should I be looking for?


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## MPowers (Jul 15, 2010)

IamDeeBee,

As Kyle said, your barndoor track simply is not designed to be quiet. The steel wheels are the big issue. However, you indicate that you are using it to move scenery rather than curtains. If so and this is a one time use, there is another solution that has been used many times. UHMW sliders. UHMW = Teflon, sorta/kinda, McMaster-Carr . "Maia Robbins-Zust" <[email protected]> The TD at Williams College designed a great version of these and wrote a short article about them a couple of years ago. I made a similar set when I was TD and teaching at UMass, Amherst, but I didn't write anything up. It's fairly easy and you can use basic woodworking tools, table saw, drill press or if desperate, hand tools and a vice. basically, make a block about 8" long and 2" wide and tall, to fit inside your track. A couple of grooves to fit over the upturned edges of your track and a bolt hole to attach scenery, and you're ready to go! If I can figure out how to post a PDF, I'll post a drawing. BTW, for this use only, you can load up the track with white lithium grease but you must clean it all out, really really well B4 the next use.


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## MPowers (Jul 15, 2010)

Re: quiet and cheap. Well, it depends on what your needs are. light weight curtains, H&H 300 series or ADC 140 are fairly good choices (shameless plug - I sell both), but for heavy scenic use, those terms are almost mutually exclusive. H&H 400 series or ADC 280 series are possibilities. In your area, contact Limelight Productions and see what they might advise.


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## MPowers (Jul 16, 2010)

Heres the PDF drawing for the UHMW sliders. The 0" dimension is a mis print, should read 8" overall length.View attachment UHMW Track slider.pdf


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## IamDeeBee (Jul 16, 2010)

Thank you!


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## Sony (Jul 16, 2010)

Hey, MPowers I really like that plastic block idea, how easily does it slide? Where can one buy blocks of UHMW?


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## Footer (Jul 16, 2010)

Sony said:


> Hey, MPowers I really like that plastic block idea, how easily does it slide? Where can one buy blocks of UHMW?


 
Give a call to your local industrial supplier or steel yard. They should carry it in many different sizes. It is kind of weird to work with, some patience is required. 

sent from my HTC Incredible


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## MPowers (Jul 16, 2010)

One quick source for the UHMW is McMaster McMaster-Carr


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## MPowers (Jul 16, 2010)

Sliding is fairly easy. To some extent, better the heavier (up to a point) the piece of scenery. Because it is a slide action rather than a roll, the units stay in place without a brake. Moving the scenery takes a touch of practice, the technique tends to be: one hand high, one hand low, push with the high hand and pull back or hold a touch with the lower hand to keep the unit level in the track.

One point I should make, scenery, whether on rollers, scenery carriers (ADC 2861A or H&H 450) or sliders, puts a much heavier, moving, point load on the track, The problem is not so much failure but flex. You might find the scenery is 1" off the ground and level when centered under a lift line and scraping the ground half way to the next one when moving. Buy a few extra track hangers and support the track from the pipe batten on 5'-0" centers. Really heavy loads may require bridles to help support the pipe between lift lines. No math needed, if the pipe and or track flex under the load, add hangers or bridles.


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## jamesarnold140 (Jul 29, 2010)

Yeah,working with a small budjet can be a pain sometimes.Years ago we had to settle for barn door track to use. It only came sized for metal carrier wheels. I was able to eliminate the noise problem by purchasing carriers with rubber wheels from a theatre supplier in a slightly wider size. It took a little time to remove the pressed in shaft and grind the housing to a narrower width,but Iwas able to get a perfect fit in the track and it has been quiet ever since. The only drawback is that now I've lost my sound cue for the following prop placement.


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## CSCTech (Jul 29, 2010)

Might not help you to much, but I come accross a very large roll of soft velcrow once and we have but it on the bottom of all or heavey set pieces so it slides a lot easier and doesnt scratch the stage.


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## blackhat (Aug 10, 2010)

While it seems I'm late to the suggestion game, mind if I thrown in my .02 cents?

If you can, wrap the wheels in plumber's teflon tape. It's a bit hard to get the adhesion unless you stretch the final bit tight and wrap it around the wheel, but a nice thick layer of the stuff works real well on one of our shop bay doors leading to the stage. Next, if you can get to the bearing portions, Hopes #9 Firearm oil is a good bearing lube in a pinch if one of them keeps acting up. It's in an spray can and attracts less particulates because it's made for firearms use. A little goes a LONG way, and don't use it on the track because it will attract dust then.


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