# More about our LOVELY Status.



## MillburyAuditorium (Jan 15, 2010)

Well. We have a Status 24/48...another idiotic move by the amazing people who designed our place.. (We have a 48 Channel Board and we are running 96..) 
Anyways some of you might know that it is has been cheating death for a few years. And last night was it. I have had it with it and I will be bringing up the proposal on Monday. 
So I am at the school from 2PM to 6PM sitting around because I thought the music department wanted me to setup mics for them, but the went ahead and used their own sound system because it sounds better then ours. (It sounds worse than hours, and that says something) Not to mention no one was running their mixer. Anyways, so I am sitting around doing homework and whatnot. 6:30 comes rolling around and the doors open (I was running lights by the way) and some people come in. Bam lights go out. Look at the board, its off. Still plugged in, nothing near the power switch, just decided to turn off. I thought it was gone, was a little happy for bit  But then remembered that there was a show in 20 minutes.. So I turn it back on. Mind you the memory port was fried when the janitors blew out the lighting system last year.. We fixed it for a few months then it stopped working all together. So anyways, every time it gets turned off it resets to factory default. CMX and all.. So I am freaking out, reprogramming it. The best part is, since its a 48 channel board and our houselights are on channels 55-71, I need to move channels 44, 46, 47, and 49 to other open channels and soft patch all the houselights into channel 48. So that takes a few minutes. Then I got the proscenium, stair, and rear lights on their respective channels. Then I start getting subs up, Had to do it manually of course since people where in there. So anyways, by the show start I was alright, then middle of the show. Out of blue, the houselights come up and down slowly. I was no were near the board, nor was anyone else, no one hit the quick access buttons. So I am confused to hell at this point and praying it wouldn't go out before the end. So end comes and all is good. People get up to leave and Bam lights out. I do not know what to do now, the board was on and looked like it was working. So I go turn the house back on with the quick button in the back, everyone leaves and I am coming back from backstage from checking the dimmer rack and then as I am coming back I see the DMX cable lying on the ground. Apon later thinking, one of the Cable Club members had ripped it out when they were disconecting their connections with the studio. Plug it back in and setup the board for the show next week..again.
If the board goes out right before the show I will tell them a big fat I TOLD YOU.


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## chris325 (Jan 15, 2010)

Wow...

Worst my school's Innovator has managed to do is freeze in the middle of a show while loading a cue. This has happened now twice in front of an audience, and seven times otherwise. I just need it to time itself so that it crashes when the entire school board is in the auditorium...

Thankfully, an Element seems to be in the near future for our school. Do you have the budget to replace that fossil? If you do, a Smartfade could be perfect for you.


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## kiwitechgirl (Jan 15, 2010)

MillburyAuditorium said:


> People get up to leave and Bam lights out. I do not know what to do now, the board was on and looked like it was working. So I go turn the house back on with the quick button in the back, everyone leaves and I am coming back from backstage from checking the dimmer rack and then as I am coming back I see the DMX cable lying on the ground. Apon later thinking, one of the Cable Club members had ripped it out when they were disconecting their connections with the studio.



Do your dimmers not "remember" the last instruction they were given if they lose DMX? We lost a pack (12 channels) last week when it decided that it didn't understand DMX any more - and it was the pack which had the music stand lights on it. However, because the pack still had power going to it, the channels which were on at that point stayed on. Fortunately the music stand lights were on at the point where the pack fell over, so the band were able to keep playing, otherwise it would have been a showstopper. The band lights are now on hard power - they were running at 100% anyway and we only dimmed them once during the show, and we can live without that. Our dimmers aren't that new, either - I thought that most relatively modern packs would remember their last state.


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## derekleffew (Jan 15, 2010)

kiwitechgirl said:


> ...I thought that most relatively modern packs would remember their last state.


Most of the better brands allow the user to configure Hold last look or DMX Data Loss Behavior/Timeout settings from the control module or over the network. Adjusting these settings on an iSeries control module requires additional hardware and knowledge; they are not (usually) user-adjustable.


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## MillburyAuditorium (Jan 15, 2010)

Yeah, we have an i96 so as you said, not much we can configure. I still have no clue on how to add a preset to the control box... Not really needed but still  

Yeah, there is no hold last look our anything. If the DMX connection is terminated it will hold the look for 10 seconds then everything will go out.


As for replacing this POS. Well, we will be looking for an Express 48/96, but if we are forced to go through the company itself we will have to get an the Element 48/96 since the Express isn't made.
I would rather an Express. But anything would be better.

As for a SmartFade, from what i have seen there is a 96 channel model but you would have to flip between pages. And I dont think there are any subs?


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## MillburyAuditorium (Jan 15, 2010)

Oh and to add,

We now how no ability to run Cues. Just doesn't work. I have read and re-read the Cue section of the manual over and over even though I knew I was doing it right in the first place. We usually do not use cues anyways, because if you use a Cue on our board, then the Multiple Scene function is rendered useless, you need to tick the 2-Scene/Multiple scene switch to 2-Scene then back to Multiple scene to get fader functionality again. Anyways, we do usually have one for dimming houselights since the slider are kind of short and 'choppy' so it just looks nicer. Then when it is dark we tick to two scene then back to multiple, but since it is black banyways it doesnt mater. (Going to 2-Scene from MultiScene makes the lights go out then back on)
So I made a Cue for last night's concert, with a 15 second dim. There is no Go button so you need to move both Scene sliders up or down to go to the next Cue. I do that, and the timer starts going and the lights move slowly like they should, but nothing happens. 
Also yesturday Spot 1 randomly went to full and would not terminate. Had to move it to a new channel and back..
And another, Spot 12 wouldnt go on until fully up then it went to full with no dimming. Then shrotly after it blew out.

Also to add to the idiotic list of things the desighners did wrong. We have a dimmer that we have NO clue what it does. There are no records of the dimmer wiring or anything. We are completely dumb-founded at it. It is definetly wired to something, and definetly is working. 

I would love to meet with the company who did our venue...There are so many flaws, and so many things not taken into account.

Dimmer rack being on stage right and not the rear closest, which I assume is meant for it.. 
Midway traveler curtain hardmounted to the celing.. With it two inches above the floor.
Wrong size lighting desk for the dimmer rack.
No kind of booth or platform at all.
A center cluster of speakers behind the edge of the stage=FEEDBACK
A wired dimer with no end apparently..
Absolutely no records or plans or blueprints or anything.
An amp box backstage which a lockable cover, except the fact that the main speaker input and 6 hanging mic outlets are there so the cover cant close if the snake is hooked up.

And I could go on forever but I already am way of topic.

We need to find somehow to get a lot of money for renovations.. I was thinking naming the auditorium after something for a cost? It is already dedicated to the principal that was there way back. 

Or beg for a grant


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## chris325 (Jan 15, 2010)

MillburyAuditorium said:


> As for replacing this POS. Well, we will be looking for an Express 48/96, but if we are forced to go through the company itself we will have to get an the Element 48/96 since the Express isn't made.
> I would rather an Express. But anything would be better.



An Element would certainly be overkill for your facility, especially since you have no plans for using cues. If you can find an Express it would be your best option, but otherwise a Smartfade 24/96 would be your best currently manufactured option from ETC, as it has the ability to run cue stacks. Have you considered Strand or Leprecon?

Also, there is no Element 48/96. There's the Element 40 and Element 60, each with the option of either 250 or 500 channels.


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## MillburyAuditorium (Jan 15, 2010)

Well, An Element wouldn't be total overkill, like the Expression 3 we rented last year while the Status was being 'fixed' 

Anyways, I didn't realize there was no 96 channel model so thats out. Again, we will only get a board with a minimum of 75 physical faders like an Express 96. Thing is, if we go through the school budget we need to go through the actual company. So I need to go through a different source, Drama, Music, or Parents Club. Yeah its dumb. Anyways. I will probably be getting the Music and Drama to pool some money together for the new board and we will need ot find the it online somewhere probably eBay.
There is one of Craig's List now with case for 2100  Plus like 100 shipping since it is in GA.


And I actually haven't looked into other company's. I will go look at them now though.

Edit:

Little interested in the Strand Preset Palette 2 or the Lepricon LPC


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## LightStud (Jan 15, 2010)

MillburyAuditorium said:


> Again, we will only get a board with a minimum of 75 physical faders like an Express 96.



I know of few current boards that have 72 or more channel faders. Strand Preset Palette II is one. However, faders are expensive, and that board along with others are likely out of your budget. I feel you're doing your school a severe disservice by buying an used Express 48/96 (if you're even allowed to buy used) when one can buy a new Element 40 (120 channel faders in three "pages" of 40 each, plus submaster page) for about the same money. Other threads have discussed the impracticality of using channel faders, as well as two-scene preset, in all but the most rudimentary of shows.


I'd like to also comment on all the, perceived, flaws in your theatre.
*
Dimmer rack being on stage right and not the rear closest, which I assume is meant for it.. *Without seeing the architectural drawings, you have no idea where the dimmer rack was supposed to be. I guarantee the lighting company didn't just walk in and say "Let's put it here." Someone approved the dimmer rack's current location.

*Midway traveler curtain hardmounted to the celing.. With it two inches above the floor.* Another post discussed methods for rectifying this.

*Wrong size lighting desk for the dimmer rack.* Since the 1980s, the trend has been NOT to include a channel fader for every dimmer. Your personal preference does not make the lighting desk wrong.

*No kind of booth or platform at all.* This is on the architect, but perhaps the design/construction budget wouldn't allow it.
*
A center cluster of speakers behind the edge of the stage=FEEDBACK* An apron was built and the stage extended after the speakers were installed, was it not? Can't blame the sound contractor for that.

*A wired dimer with no end apparently..* Not all that uncommon. Might have been a mistake, might have been intentional. The circuit may even be there, you just haven't found it.

*Absolutely no records or plans or blueprints or anything.* I'm sure the contractors provided all required documentation to the proper persons after construction. They're probably in the files of the school superintendent or school board, or possibly with the head of maintenance.

*An amp box backstage which a lockable cover, except the fact that the main speaker input and 6 hanging mic outlets are there so the cover cant close if the snake is hooked up.* Apparently the designer of the system thought the cables should be disconnected when the amp rack was locked and not in use. Sort of makes sense, if cables are plugged in, the rack is in use, and probably shouldn't be locked. If there are settings that shouldn't ever be changed, security covers for components are available and come in many rackspace sizes.


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## MillburyAuditorium (Jan 16, 2010)

How would purchasing a board with 96 physical faders be a disadvantage ten buying one for the same price with 40? We have been using a 46 channel board for 10 years and the way our lighting is setup it is HORRIBLE to program. In order to use any above stage circuit above 44 we need to soft patch it somewhere else and all 12 rows of houselights are on separate dimmers. So we have a fader for back lights so we can see, houselights, proscenium, and Stair lights. All the channels for these are above 48. So it is a disadvantage having the current board, we are only limiting our potential. We can not possibly add anymore lights because there is no were to patch them to on the board without grouping them. And then that just gets annoying. 
We do not use channel faders during shows of course... We simply want to have enough channel faders all at once to use all our lighting all at once individually. 

And believe me when I say, our venue sound was most definitely not installed by a professional. The lighting was from Leviton, just they placed the rack on the stage which is a bit dumb on their part. The noise from the rack fans is horrible. 

And about the traveler curtain. I went and checked about the chain and there is nothing of what was suggested.


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## Wolf (Jan 16, 2010)

Wow sorry to hear about your board, at least you were able to regain some of what you lost before the show...

There is no doubt that you need a new console but as I have said before (maybe to you even) individual channel faders are a in my opinion a wave of the past, yes some strand console still manufacture console with them it is becoming less and less common. Also once you start using a cue stack you will love yourself during long running shows (more than 2 even). Yes it will taking some getting used to, to use a key pad for all your channels but it will become much much quicker and editing of course. You still have submasters for those things that almost must have hands on control of such as house lights and also to do those short little one off shows and concerts.

But as regards to the OP that is a royal pain in the particularly it resetting to factory defaults...


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## willbb123 (Jan 16, 2010)

If you want faders I would go with the Smartfade. 
Personally I cant stand having faders for each channel. I find using a keypad alot simpler and quicker then sliders. Want channels 1 though 24 at 75%? That's means sliding 24 sliders, or only 7 key presses. 

If you don't mind me asking, what year in high school are you?


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## MillburyAuditorium (Jan 16, 2010)

I think I know why I am not understanding some people here 

The Status cannot control individual channel intensity's using the keypad.

If it could that would be great, I wouldn't need all the faders.

But having to soft patch every fixture and row of houselights above channel 45 is a pain in the *****..

Since ETC and Leviton use different setups maybe people are assuming things? I have never used a different lighting console so I do not really know..Well except the Expression 3 but I didn't have any time to tinker with it.
Anyways,
There are four buttons on top of the keypad and to the right, on the left is the value buttons, >>, >, <, and <<. On the right there is @, +/> (Equivalent to ETC's Thru button if you hit the + twice) On the top is Record Cue, Record Sub, Stage, Dimmer. The first ones are self explanatory. But if you hit Stage, then you are asked what Channel to control. This is the same as just typing in the channel number, but if your in a different menu you can hit Stage to go to it. Anyways, you type in the Channel number and it is just a different way to use the physical faders. This will also Park the channel. If you hit Dimmer, you are asked to "Channel __ @ __ " It only asks you what dimmer you want at what physical fader. So, you cannot control each Dimmer with the keypad. If we could, I would have no problem.


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## Wolf (Jan 16, 2010)

So you have no actual numeric keys?


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## Les (Jan 16, 2010)

Wolf said:


> So you have no actual numeric keys?



He does, they just can't capture individual channels.

Here is the board in question:
Status > Discontinued Products > Entertainment Lighting Controls > Commercial Lighting > All Leviton Products from Leviton Electrical and Electronic Products


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## derekleffew (Jan 16, 2010)

Bottom of page 2-1 of the manual cited:

> To create a lighting look, channel faders and/or submasters can be moved up to set levels as desired and/or the Control keypad can be used to set levels with commands. A typical level setting command entered with the keypad might be *1 + 5 > 12 AT 65 ENTER*.



Not understanding why he thinks it doesn't work like virtually every other board.


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## Les (Jan 16, 2010)

I will admit that it can be quite hard to wrap your mind around the Status, but when one is working correctly it isn't a hard board to use.

My biggest complaints-

The [now replaced] Status at our community theatre controlled 192 dimmers -- hey you think 96 is bad?!? You could use all 192 dimmers, but they could only be soft patched in to 48 channels. That means that if you have 10 specials, 3 color cyc, 4 color stage wash, 15 areas --Well, things start to fill up fast.

Pressing [1] [thru] [9] [at] [20] [enter] will not bring channels 1-9 to 20%. It will soft patch dimmers 1-9 into channel fader 20. This is the hardest thing to get used to when you aren't used to having anything other than 1:1 patch, or aren't used to running a board that even needs to be patched.

You execute cues by sliding both crossfaders either up or down. For a zero count cue, slide it as fast as you can. For timed fades, slide it faster than the fade time and the computer will take care of the rest. But, on that 20 sec fade, *don't you dare* slide those faders until the screen says COMPLETE. Otherwise it will take you all the way back to the beginning of that cue. For this reason, you can't start a new cue until the previous cue is complete.

There is a Next Cue button, but no Back Button. There is no way to override fade times on the fly without rebuilding the cue. To execute a cue you HAVE to slide the faders. If there is a fade time on that cue and you need it to snap, too bad - shoulda caught it earlier. Unless of course you don't mind reprogramming the cue right there.

Console writes data to a memory cartridge, not a floppy disk. Cartridges are expensive and delicate. 

Small LCD screen makes paging through menus tedious.

Short faders with an odd feel makes smooth manual fades tricky.

Still though, for the time this board was introduced, it was a nice console. It's hard to complain so much about old equipment because that's just what it is -- old equipment. Newer equipment becomes more flexible and easier to use. You can't call the original installers idiots because they installed the best board the school could afford at the time. These days that board would probably be a SmartFade. Build a bridge and get over it. 

The Status at my community theatre was replaced by an ETC Express a few years ago because it had been locking up and dumping its memory for several years. They took it in for servicing several times, but the problem never seemed to go away completely.


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## venuetech (Jan 16, 2010)

can you not save the patch onto some type of disk/media?

Do you have a memory cartridge that is referred to in chapter 9 of the manual?

having one would save you a lot of key strokes.


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## venuetech (Jan 16, 2010)

has the board battery been replaced as described in the manual 
Appendices 
A-14
V 1.32


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## DuckJordan (Jan 16, 2010)

Okay, as far as having a hard fader for every single dimmer is useless how often do you need ex. 100 different lights coming on at the same time at completely different levels, and secondly how do you get that many hands on a desk? 
Next, not using a cue list makes it very hard, if not impossible, to make looks or transitions work exactly the same for seven shows. Not to mention, when or if you go into professional theater's 20-1000 shows? Would it not be better to get a desk with 20-30 physical faders then teach them how to set up cues? 
Personally, I think whoever taught you or how you taught yourself will cause you more headache in the future with how most if not all theaters are setup. Until this year we never had any physical faders in our main theater it was all on the computer and in cues. we learned both the computer functions and the hard fader only methods.
Also just because you have to work with an auditorium that is not setup IDEALLY doesn't mean that you shouldn't find ways to make it work instead of just complaining to either the higher ups or trying to find a way to make it work. We have many problems in our theater including a sound setup issue which we are getting resolved because of looking on our own, asking for help, and learning through resources at our disposal.
So instead of looking for an overkill board with as many physical faders as you have dimmers look for something that will be easy to teach and also a more common dimmer board.


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## shiben (Jan 16, 2010)

DuckJordan said:


> Okay, as far as having a hard fader for every single dimmer is useless how often do you need ex. 100 different lights coming on at the same time at completely different levels, and secondly how do you get that many hands on a desk?
> Next, not using a cue list makes it very hard, if not impossible, to make looks or transitions work exactly the same for seven shows. Not to mention, when or if you go into professional theater's 20-1000 shows? Would it not be better to get a desk with 20-30 physical faders then teach them how to set up cues?
> Personally, I think whoever taught you or how you taught yourself will cause you more headache in the future with how most if not all theaters are setup. Until this year we never had any physical faders in our main theater it was all on the computer and in cues. we learned both the computer functions and the hard fader only methods.
> Also just because you have to work with an auditorium that is not setup IDEALLY doesn't mean that you shouldn't find ways to make it work instead of just complaining to either the higher ups or trying to find a way to make it work. We have many problems in our theater including a sound setup issue which we are getting resolved because of looking on our own, asking for help, and learning through resources at our disposal.
> So instead of looking for an overkill board with as many physical faders as you have dimmers look for something that will be easy to teach and also a more common dimmer board.



If its worth anything, try and make your experience at a sub par venue as high quality as possible. Strive for good shows every time, work on getting nice lighting looks. Once you can do it in a sub par venue with not a lot of gear, it will be much easier to meet the limits when they are higher, moving into the professional world where I have seen shows with over a universe of dimmers just hooked up to Source 4 ERS instruments. Remember, that even the biggest show in Las Vegas (with some notable exceptions) has some serious limitations (budget being the main one), and if you grow up not having any limits, designing anywhere other than the Cirque is just going to be unbearable. Also, when I started lighting work, I used submasters and channel faders constantly. Try cuing once. It might seem like more work in tech. You will sit there and people will complain about the level, and youll need to do some fiddling and hit some more buttons than normal. Then come opening night, I am sure you will find out why pros use cues for this type of thing. You can literally (though its not reccomended in any way, shape or form) read a book and with the SM callig cues, flawlessly execute a show. In fact, if your good, you dont even need to look down at the board/up from the book. Obviously you want to pay attention, but its is so much simpler. Also, recording cues is super easy on any console I have tried out, once you find out the syntax (IE, read the manual). Try it out, youll be happy you did (also, you wont look like a dumbass when you get to college and dont know how to write a cue).


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## MillburyAuditorium (Jan 16, 2010)

Derek,

As the poster after you said. That command will not bring dimmers 1 +15 > 20 to 60 percent. It will bring Channels 1, 15 >20 to 60 percent. The Status is NOT like every other consoles. 

Les,
Yes! Someone that has used a Status. Les has explained the problems with the Status greatly.

Everyone-
The reason I do not use cues is because of what les said about Cues on a Status, you need to slide both faders up to execute it, no back button, and no way to speed it up. And I do not use the channel faders to run a show... I use the subs. 

Venue,
There is no external storage device in the unit. No floppy or anything. All saved on the Ram which is powered with a small round battery when the console is off. 

Venue again,
We have replaced the battery say..30 times in four months. Then realized it wasn't the battery..

Duck, 
Please read what I have said about how the Status works, there is only 1 way to get a light to light up. And that is to softpatch it into a channel under 48. You CANNOT capture a dimmer using the board. You need to soft patch every fixture above 48 to a channel under 48 to use it. Also, we do not have more than 50 fixtures and a somewhat small stage. So we need to be able to control each fixture individually to create a desired look and something on the fly. And so, using a Status it is physicly impossible to use more than 48 fixtures, on seperate channels that is.

Shiben, same as Duck.





If the Status could capture a dimmer from the keypad I dont think I would ever use the channel faders to be honost. But that is the only way to bring up a light. To have it on a physical channel on the board.


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## DuckJordan (Jan 16, 2010)

MillburyAuditorium said:


> ... You CANNOT capture a dimmer using the board. You need to soft patch every fixture above 48 to a channel under 48 to use it. Also, we do not have more than 50 fixtures and a somewhat small stage. So we need to be able to control each fixture individually to create a desired look and something on the fly. And so, using a Status it is physicly impossible to use more than 48 fixtures, on seperate channels that is.
> 
> Shiben, same as Duck.
> 
> ...



CHECK OUT PAGE 27 on the levitons website for the status 

> Multi-scene Operation of the status console allows the user to record channel levels for many lighting looks (cues) into memory for later recall. Each cue has a number and a fade time associated with it. To create a lighting look, channel faders and/or Submasters can be moved up to set levels as desired. ALSO THE CONTROL KEYPAD CAN BE USED TO SET LEVELS WITH COMMANDS. A TYPICAL LEVEL SETTING COMMAND MIGHT BE: 1+5>12 AT 65 ENTER. This is all done when in stage display.
> 
> Once the lighting levels are as desired, record them into a cue in memory with a command like: REC CUE 2 TIME 10 ENTER. This Particular command would record the ighting look into cue two with a 10-second fade time.
> 
> ...


so when you say you cannot do so on the status, YOU HAVE NOT READ THE MANUAL!

heres a direct link read before you say something else completely stupid

P.S. I found that in under 5 minutes so don't tell me you couldn't find it in the manual.


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## Les (Jan 16, 2010)

MillburyAuditorium said:


> Venue,
> There is no external storage device in the unit. No floppy or anything. All saved on the Ram which is powered with a small round battery when the console is off.
> 
> Venue again,
> We have replaced the battery say..30 times in four months. Then realized it wasn't the battery..



Sounds like a chip is fried. That would definitely drain a battery. You do have cartridge reader on the right side of the console for storing show/patch information.


MillburyAuditorium said:


> Please read what I have said about how the Status works, there is only 1 way to get a light to light up. And that is to softpatch it into a channel under 48. You CANNOT capture a dimmer using the board. You need to soft patch every fixture above 48 to a channel under 48 to use it. Also, we do not have more than 50 fixtures and a somewhat small stage. So we need to be able to control each fixture individually to create a desired look and something on the fly. And so, using a Status it is physicly impossible to use more than 48 fixtures, on seperate channels that is.
> 
> Shiben, same as Duck.
> 
> ...



This is correct. Even if a dimmer is patched to a channel, you can't bring it up using the keypad. It has to be brought up using one of the 48 faders. If a dimmer is not patched to a channel, the board can't control it.


DuckJordan said:


> CHECK OUT PAGE 27 on the levitons website for the status
> so when you say you cannot do so on the status, YOU HAVE NOT READ THE MANUAL!
> 
> heres a direct link read before you say something else completely stupid
> ...



Believe me -- it is easier to simply set the faders rather than use their keypad with the multi-function keys. The only time we used these command prompts were for editing cues and had no other choice. Note that many of their function buttons require 2 keystrokes (and/thru, etc). Also, there is no except button (unless it doubles as another function key which isn't unlikely) and very little visual feedback. 

I'm not going to take any sides, but I will say that while it is easy to use once you wrap your mind around it - it still isn't a joy to use. You really just have to program a show with it to appreciate its 'uniqueness'.

EDIT: I myself have also stated a few times that you can't use the keypad to set levels. In my experience this was the case, however it was also years ago. Maybe there was a software update included with the Leviton takeover. Who knows.

MillburyAuditorium, here's an idea. Try the keystrokes cited above and document the results with a video. I'm curious...


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## DuckJordan (Jan 16, 2010)

according to what leviton's manual says it doesn't have to be brought on a fader just use the command that the manual states.


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## Les (Jan 16, 2010)

DuckJordan said:


> according to what leviton's manual says it doesn't have to be brought on a fader just use the command that the manual states.



On the Status, faders are easier. On an ETC board it might be 5 or 7 keystrokes. On the Status it is likely twice that, as you have to hit many of the keys twice to get the function you desire. And if you hit a key once instead of twice by mistake (and tell the board 'and' instead of 'thru') you are hosed, because it is very hard to backtrack on this console. 

Another gripe I have with this board is that it uses symbols rather than words on both the console and the (tiny) screen. [+/-, <,>,<<,>>]. It really is as if the martians wrote the software for it.


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## MillburyAuditorium (Jan 16, 2010)

Thank you very much Les.
Yeah thats what we were thinking, probably when the school was having power issues. 
cartridge reader? 0_0 The only thing on the side of the board is a thin metal cover that looks like I could rip it off, but I didn't want to break anything.
And ours is a new model, there is no new updates though. Ours actually says Leviton on it and on the manual. It also seems that our board and manual is a little different from the old one. A picture online shows the Status with two AMX dimmer outputs, yet ours only has one normal one.
Not to sure on the software version we are running, Ill check next time I am there though. Wow, I think our manual is missing a few chapters 0_0 I did not even know that there were so many settings. Dumb tiny screen  Didn't know you could adjust the screen angel, yay, no more leaning to read the screen. And also didn't know you could lock the board. Maybe because you have to press Setup 9 times to get to it  And the floppy drive in the manual picture is right were there is a thin metal plate. If there is a drive under that and I have been resetting the board manually every time I'm going to be mad xD


Duck. You are just not understanding what the manual is saying.. So before you insult me again why don't you look more than 5 minutes. I have worked with this console for 7 years I know the freaking thing inside and out. I have read and reread the manual and 4 other Levi on lighting booklets time after time I could practicably recite it. If you want me to take a video to prove to you that you cannot control a dimmer without it being on a physical fared I will.
Page 23 of the manual is only telling you that you can use the faders OR the keypad to control the FADERS. "..also the Control keypad can be used to set levels with commands..."
Typing in 1 + 15 > 20 @ 65 will NOT bring dimmers 1, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, and 20 to 65 percent. It will bring channels 1, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and 20 to 65 percent. And what happens if you have soft patched those dimmers to a different channel? Because we have more than 48 fixtures, so we need to move things around and add multiple fixtures to one channel to use them.


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## MillburyAuditorium (Jan 16, 2010)

> It really is as if the martians wrote the software for it.



Hahaha, You might be onto something. Ever get the error screen with fish, hearts, spades and hieroglyphics?  Someone I am teaching how to tame this beast came running to me after school once nearly crying screaming "I dont know what I did..!"


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## icewolf08 (Jan 16, 2010)

I think that one source of confusion in this thread is the difference between channels and dimmers. Millbury keeps talking about "capturing dimmers" which is not a normal operation for most of us. Generally one patches dimmers into channels and then sets levels using the channels. I don't know anything about the Status, but it sounds like this is what you have to do, which makes sense, and it also sounds like you are limited to 48 control channels. This type of limit is not unusual in that you have less control channels available than dimmers/outputs, many modern consoles have such restrictions including but not limited to: Express(ion), Element, Strand 300/500, etc.

Now, once you have patched your dimmers to channels you should be able to bring up each channel or a group thereof by using the keypad. From reading this theatre I am led to understand that learning the proper keystrokes for some things on this particular console is not easy, but every console has a learning curve, every console is different, some (remaining nameless) require you to stand on your head to get the syntax out correctly.

It was mentioned that running cues on the Status can be a PITA because you can't change them on the fly. However, aside from having a stop/hold button, many consoles don't make it easy to take over a running cue. On a Strand 500/300 and on Obsession II you have to hit at least one button before you can assume manual control of a cue. In any event, I have found it very rare that I have needed to do this or skip around cues during a show. In tech/rehearsals, that is another story.

Now, all of this is not to say that you should change how you run shows. If you are comfortable running in a preset manner, that is fine. If you find that method easier due to the funkiness of your console, fine. However, if you are looking for a new console, you should think outside of what you know. Most of the modern consoles will be a lot easier to work with and will work in a more logical manner. You truly no longer need to have handles for every channel, and once you get used to it, keying in levels will be a lot faster and more effective. Also, working from a programmed cue stack will simplify life.


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## DuckJordan (Jan 16, 2010)

then disregard my post, It sounds to me that what you have is an extremely outdated board as far as capabilities even our 20 year old board (before it died) could have 512 actual dimmers in and only 20 soft patch but still control all of them using the key commands. The manual i guess didn't make it clear that they have to be soft patched. 

I am sorry for the blow up, I have been going through some issue with both my director and an ex of my girlfriend doing some stupid stuff... so i apologize for my rudeness. 

I guess i didn't realize how older systems didn't expect to have to control more than 48 or so lights. this is why i like our system. which as long as you have space on our computer we can add more dimmers up to a total of 1024.


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## icewolf08 (Jan 16, 2010)

MillburyAuditorium said:


> Page 23 of the manual is only telling you that you can use the faders OR the keypad to control the FADERS. "..also the Control keypad can be used to set levels with commands..."
> Typing in 1 + 15 > 20 @ 65 will NOT bring dimmers 1, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, and 20 to 65 percent. It will bring channels 1, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and 20 to 65 percent. And what happens if you have soft patched those dimmers to a different channel? Because we have more than 48 fixtures, so we need to move things around and add multiple fixtures to one channel to use them.



As I said in my previous post, this is what one would expect to happen. I would never expect to be keying something in on the keypad and have dimmers come up unless I was calling a dimmer. Consoles think in channels, channels control dimmers/outputs. You are "softpatching" when you assign dimmers to channels, and this is a normal thing to do. I have 380 dimmers in my theatre, but often times many of those dimmer get patched into the same channel even though my console can support 600 channels. This is normal, most people have more dimmers/outputs in a show than channels.


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## Les (Jan 16, 2010)

icewolf08 said:


> As I said in my previous post, this is what one would expect to happen. I would never expect to be keying something in on the keypad and have dimmers come up unless I was calling a dimmer. Consoles think in channels, channels control dimmers/outputs. You are "softpatching" when you assign dimmers to channels, and this is a normal thing to do. I have 380 dimmers in my theatre, but often times many of those dimmer get patched into the same channel even though my console can support 600 channels. This is normal, most people have more dimmers/outputs in a show than channels.



I'm a fan of softpatching personally. My only complaint with it on this console is that you're limited to 48 channels of control. Most shows get along fine with this, but for more complicated shows with lots of specials, areas, etc there are a lot of compromises that have to be made.


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## MillburyAuditorium (Jan 16, 2010)

Ice, I have never used any other console before, so you say that new consoles can control a dimmer (I am sorry for wrong terminology, I just don't want any confusion.) without it behind soft patched into a channel? If this is true then by all mesns we will get whatever board seems best.

Duck, It's alright. Yeah the manual is a little vague. Like Ice said I don't think they were intending to use more than 48 lights. Our maybe they were intending to be used with a different dimmer pack like the manual states. 

Ice again, Yeah, I have been running shows on the fly with sub masters forever, but that is the only way I can do it right now since the cue system doesn't even work because it refuses to remember cues..And maybe it is better to do it that way for high school shows, especially with the Status. Since you cannot speed up a running cue, you can however stop it and make it slower, and make the new effect come in faster or slower then the old one. But anyways, people saying the wrong line and everything else, I just think it would be chaos.


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## MillburyAuditorium (Jan 16, 2010)

Ice,

Well, I have no problem soft patching. But the thing is, we simply cant have more then one fixture on a channel because the sheer size of our stage and the coverage of each light etc.

And just to clear it up, because some people might see the button labled Dimmer and be like "Umm..."
This is what the Dimmer button on the board does.
Basically, a command could be..
[DIMMER] [27] [@] [23] [ENTER] This would take Dimmer 27 and patch it to fader/channel 23.

Also I think I like having a slider for each light is because it is a little easier to comprehend. I assume this is like it at all venues, but, if your looking at the stage from BOH where the board is, there is an FOH Bar with 16 outlets for our 16 spotlights. Then above the stage, up stage there is a lighting bar numbered left to right 17 - 37 and down stage there is a lighting bar numbered 38 - 52. Then, there not labled, but the proscenium houselights are 53, then in numerical order all the way to the back of the house are rows of houselights 54, 55, 56, 57, 58 59, 60, 61, 62, 64 (We have absolutely no clue what dimmer 63 is wired to and we really want to know...) 65. And then the lights on the stairs to the stage are 64. And the rest of the rack is spacers and the computer.


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## icewolf08 (Jan 17, 2010)

MillburyAuditorium said:


> Ice, I have never used any other console before, so you say that new consoles can control a dimmer (I am sorry for wrong terminology, I just don't want any confusion.) without it behind soft patched into a channel? If this is true then by all mesns we will get whatever board seems best.



More on how consoles work. Yes, you can call a dimmer alone on most modern consoles. However, this feature is of little use during a show as you generally can't do it in time in a cue. However, almost all current consoles support far more than 48 control channels so patching all your dimmers into their own channels wouldn't be an issue. By the same token, most current consoles support more channels than they have faders because you can key in levels for channels.

Recording and playing back cues is easier on newer consoles than it sounds like it is on the Status, although taking manual control of a cue can require just as many steps.

You just have to think of things like this (and I realize that you may know most of this, but others may not):
• A *dimmer/output* is controlled by a channel. A dimmer can only be controlled by one channel, but one channel can control multiple dimmers.

• A *channel* is the "name" that the LD and board op use to work with a fixture or group of fixtures. An LD doesn't care what dimmer you happened to plug any given fixture into, he only cares that when he calls for channel one, the light that he specified to be in channel one comes on. So even if you physically plugged that light into dimmer 23, you patch it to channel 1.

• A *dimmer* provides power to a circuit. Most modern systems have one circuit connected to each dimmer. Many older systems had a hard patch where you had more circuits that dimmers and you could connect each circuit to a dimmer or multiple circuits to a dimmer.

• A *circuit* is the run of wire between the dimmer and the lighting fixture. A circuit can have more than one lighting fixture plugged into it, generally by using a twofer.

Now, we also tend to hear people talk about DMX as having channels, and these channels are not to be confused with control channels on your console. ON some consoles DMX channels are known as dimmers, addresses, outputs, etc. Before moving lights and other DMX controlled accessories DMX was only used to control dimmers, so older consoles like the ETC Express(ion) refer to DMX channels as dimmers. Outputs or addresses are probably the more accurate term now that we have all kinds of DMX "toys."

I could keep going, but I don't think that it really will help with your issues.

If you are actually on the market for a new console, I would suggest that you take a good look at ETC's Element. It will probably give you the most bang for your buck. While a Smartfade can control all of the dimmers you have, it won't leave you any room to grow in the future. While an Element may seem like overkill now, it will give you the flexibility to try MLs or DMX "toys" at some point and grow and expand over time. You may not get physical handle for every channel, but you will be able to work with cues very easily and you will get more handles for subs and such. Also, you will be learning what is becoming an industry standard lighting control operating system, and when you go out into the world later in life, it will be easier to transition to Ion or Eos, and probably whatever comes next.


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## MillburyAuditorium (Jan 17, 2010)

Thanks Ice, Well, if all gos as planned, we will get a Express or an Element. If not..then I will tell which board we get : ) But any how, nothing can be as bad as what we have now : ) I hope.. 

Watch them through out what I tell them and get something crazy? See a Congo or something in a 300 seat venue with 50 conventional fixtures? xD

And like you said about expansion, we will probably be looking to get a moving head or two in the coming years with the auditoriums minisquel budget and most of the dramas budget 
This year we will most likely be getting the new light board, and if not this year, next year we will get a new sound system (Hoorah!) And also next year out of the maintenance budget, a new rear traveler, just the curtain. It has a HUGE rip up the side, and has alot of rips on the bottum fringe, good thing noone sees it. Caused by set moving and whatnot. And the rear legs also have some rips in the bottom but not enough to warrant new ones yet. And so, after next year with a brand new sound system and new light board. There really anything else we need. But then things we want  Maybe even get a followspot, or some fancy DMX lights, well, the baord would need to universes right? Not sure how you connect DMX fixtures to a board? From what I understand the baord would need a second universe, then run a DMX cable out of Universe 2, to the first light, then out of the first one to the second one and so on? Or is it not like that. That would be really hard to do thinking about it..Especially if the lights are on the light bars.. Would need to run the cable through the ceiling, then have a lot of slack to wrap around the already existing coil of slack of power cabling so the flys can be lowered without stretching or breaking any wiring. Hmm..


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## derekleffew (Jan 17, 2010)

Millbury, maybe reading this thread will help: _1:1 patch_: Do you use it?


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## MillburyAuditorium (Jan 17, 2010)

Derek,

1:1 Won that poll.
We would love a 1:1 patch, but we cannot because our Status only has 48 channel faders, and we have more fixtures than that.
And if not a 1:1, then at least a keypad that can capture individual dimmers without having them assigned to a channel.


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## icewolf08 (Jan 17, 2010)

MillburyAuditorium said:


> Derek,
> 
> 1:1 Won that poll.
> We would love a 1:1 patch, but we cannot because our Status only has 48 channel faders, and we have more fixtures than that.
> And if not a 1:1, then at least a keypad that can capture individual dimmers without having them assigned to a channel.



I think I have figured out the main communication gap you are having. Your console (the Status) only supports 48 control channels. Those 48 channels correspond to 48 faders. A console like Express (and most newer consoles) support more control channels than they have physical faders. So you can patch a dimmer into a channel that doesn't have a fader and then call that channel with the keypad. Call dimmers alone is possible, but you can't write them into cues or subs without first patching them into a channel.


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## venuetech (Jan 17, 2010)

Replacing the $3.00 battery should be the first thing you do next week.
it is a BR2325 lithium, the manual recommends yearly replacement.
instructions for replacment are in the manual appendices section.
Status > Discontinued Products > Entertainment Lighting Controls > Commercial Lighting > All Leviton Products from Leviton Electrical and Electronic Products 
save the receipt and turn it in to the building sectary for reimbursement.

as i recall there is no on board hard disk so all of your cues and patch are stored in Random Access Memory the battery is there to power that memory when the board is off and during any power bumps. 

there is no guarantee that a battery will solve anything but it could help.


also check the wiki page about channel hookup


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## Les (Jan 17, 2010)

icewolf08 said:


> I think I have figured out the main communication gap you are having. Your console (the Status) only supports 48 control channels. Those 48 channels correspond to 48 faders. A console like Express (and most newer consoles) support more control channels than they have physical faders. So you can patch a dimmer into a channel that doesn't have a fader and then call that channel with the keypad. Call dimmers alone is possible, but you can't write them into cues or subs without first patching them into a channel.



Precisely.

[user]venuetech[/user], I think he said all the new batteries keep dieing also. This leads me to believe the console has a bad chip which is causing excessive battery draw.


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## Footer (Jan 18, 2010)

icewolf08 said:


> I think I have figured out the main communication gap you are having. Your console (the Status) only supports 48 control channels. Those 48 channels correspond to 48 faders. A console like Express (and most newer consoles) support more control channels than they have physical faders. So you can patch a dimmer into a channel that doesn't have a fader and then call that channel with the keypad. Call dimmers alone is possible, but you can't write them into cues or subs without first patching them into a channel.



Added to that, on the express you can only bring up one dimmer at a time. In Strand 300/500 world you can grab more then on and you actually "unpatch" the dimmer when you grab it. Its a good way to knock out a light from a show. 

The idea of channel counts is starting to go away in the world. Most consoles can easily control a full universe. Some can control an nearly infinite amount. 

Just a quick note.... 
Total Channel counts of the express: 
24/48-96 Channels
48/96-192 Channels
72/144-240 Channels
125-125 Channels
250-250 Channels
Expression 3's came in 400, 800, and 1200 count versions. 
With Emphasis you could take and Express(ion) console into the thousands in channel count. 

Strand 300/500 consoles are not hard locked to channel numbers. You can expand the channel counts to a limit buy purchasing more channels and getting an unlock code.


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## Les (Jan 18, 2010)

Footer said:


> Added to that, on the express you can only bring up one dimmer at a time. In Strand 300/500 world you can grab more then on and you actually "unpatch" the dimmer when you grab it. Its a good way to knock out a light from a show.
> 
> The idea of channel counts is starting to go away in the world. Most consoles can easily control a full universe. Some can control an nearly infinite amount.
> 
> ...



And the Status gives you just 48.. I'm glad we finally got to the bottom of this!!!

Now I have a question of my own. 

I have an EDI Bijou 48. It has 2 rows of 48 channel faders (labeled up to 96) plus a keypad. Having never hooked it up to anything other than a studio theatre carrying 24 dimmers, how much control do I have? Does it work like the Colortran, where I can only control what's on a fader, or can I control everything on a fader plus grab higher dimmer numbers (let's say you're running 192 dimmers) by using the keypad like on an Express?

Maybe it's time to take it up to my local community theatre and run it through its paces.


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## Footer (Jan 18, 2010)

Les said:


> And the Status gives you just 48.. I'm glad we finally got to the bottom of this!!!
> 
> Now I have a question of my own.
> 
> ...



Easiest way to find out is to go into the patch and see how many channels you have by paging down. That only works though if it is like an express console. In strand 300/500 land the patch works much differently. To start a show, you actually delete all your channels. You then patch only the channels you need. So, if you have a 500 channel console, you can have a channel 1 and 1,000 as long as you don't use more then 500 numbers. 

Looks like you have 512 channels on that console with the ability to control 1024 dimmers. http://greengate.coopercontrol.com/specfiles/pdf/zero 88/DataSheet_Bijou_2009.pdf

I can't wait for the day when this whole mess is no longer an issue. The only reason channel counts did not match DMX outputs was processing power. That is no longer an issue. I would love to see the day when a console comes with 4 DMX outputs, it can control every slot in those outputs. I think we are going to see more consoles go the way of GrandMA and HogIII and have outboard processing allowing you to expand outputs exponentially. 

Channel counts are the number one reason to get rid of your express(ion) line console and pick up a newer one. Anyone who has ever tried to run movers on an express(ion) console knows that you run out of channels very, very, fast.


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## icewolf08 (Jan 18, 2010)

Les said:


> I have an EDI Bijou 48. It has 2 rows of 48 channel faders (labeled up to 96) plus a keypad. Having never hooked it up to anything other than a studio theatre carrying 24 dimmers, how much control do I have? Does it work like the Colortran, where I can only control what's on a fader, or can *I control everything on a fader plus grab higher dimmer numbers* (let's say you're running 192 dimmers) by using the keypad like on an Express?



We still need to work on syntax in this thread. If you want to be able to really control fixtures/dimmers/etc. they NEED to be patched to a channel. Just because you can call up a dimmer on many consoles without it being patched to a channel you have very limited control.

*Dimmers NEED to be patched to channels for useful control!*

Consider the ETC Express 24/48. It has 48 physical faders but it can support 96 channels. So you can control 48 channels on sliders, but you can control an additional 48 via the keypad or programmed into submasters. Yes, you can bring up a dimmer that is not patched, but you can't fade it with anything (subs, cues, faders, etc.).

I don't know anything about the Bijou, you would have to look and see how many channels it supports.


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## Les (Jan 18, 2010)

icewolf08 said:


> We still need to work on syntax in this thread. If you want to be able to really control fixtures/dimmers/etc. they NEED to be patched to a channel. Just because you can call up a dimmer on many consoles without it being patched to a channel you have very limited control.
> 
> *Dimmers NEED to be patched to channels for useful control!*
> 
> ...



Just looked -- it's a Bijou 48/96 and has 2 DMX outputs.


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## Morpheus (Jan 19, 2010)

Yea, just to clarify (since I've used them at my school) the ETC Express(ion) series DO have DIMMER capture functions... BUT YOU CAN ONLY CONTROL ONE AT A TIME... and pressing ANY button drop the dimmer! Luckily, it will re-patch itself... but yea, channels are the way to go.
Unless you need to actually hunt for a dimmer.
e: ok, fired up the EOL... You can +/- up or down dimmers (once you set an initial check level)... but that's it. Any other button drops "dimmer check mode"


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## MillburyAuditorium (Jan 19, 2010)

Oh, It seems we have we have gotten to the bottom of this then  I just assumed that you needed the number of channel faders to use that number of channels. But know I suppose any board that has more then 80 control channels will be good for us : )

Again about the battery, we have replaced it multiple times monthly and now the board refuses to remember anything at all with a brand new battery after one time being shut off.

Off to look for different board now with a new perspective : )

People have mentioned different ones, but if you want to suggest something, we are looking for something with at least one monitor, after using the Expression last year we loved having the dual monitors. Then of course greater than 80 control channels, other then that not to much we would want, except a phone remote some boards support would be nice for a small lightweight wireless rfu.


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## photoatdv (Jan 19, 2010)

What type of battery? It it easily removable? Soldered in? Have you checked for physical damage to it's connections?


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## MillburyAuditorium (Jan 19, 2010)

The battery is a BR2325 lithium. Its one of those round ones. Not to sure, just asked maintenance to get me a couple. The holder is a clip it slides into. It is a little hard to get out, but it isn't supposed to be touched very often. Theres the base, then a metal clip for the positive coming up to touch the top, I have pushed the clip down before putting in the battery to insure it is touching and testing the battery and it was full when but in, board ran for a few hours, turned it off, came back the enxt day and board was reset, tested battery, nearly depleated. So we think it is a fried chip like people have said here. Or the Ram.


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## photoatdv (Jan 19, 2010)

Is it rechargable?


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## Les (Jan 19, 2010)

photoatdv said:


> Is it rechargable?



These are usually the disposable coin-type lithium battery. They should last about 8-10 years.


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## DuckJordan (Jan 19, 2010)

also what could cause it... does your maintenance staff turn off power in the building to kill "vampire" devices? if they do it could drain that battery with it just trying to keep the memory in store. Also do you have it attached to a power strip or some other device that is switchable. If this is the case replace the battery and leave the device plugged in and power avidly running to it. also warn the maintenance staff about the need to keep power on to that section of the building at all times.


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## photoatdv (Jan 19, 2010)

Look for physical (heat, burn marks, corrosion, ect) on the circuit board between the battery and the memory chips. Don't mess with anything though. If you see anything funny get a teacher to help (to cya) and call the manufacturer's tech support.


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## Les (Jan 19, 2010)

DuckJordan said:


> also what could cause it... does your maintenance staff turn off power in the building to kill "vampire" devices? if they do it could drain that battery with it just trying to keep the memory in store. Also do you have it attached to a power strip or some other device that is switchable. If this is the case replace the battery and leave the device plugged in and power avidly running to it. also warn the maintenance staff about the need to keep power on to that section of the building at all times.



I don't think disconnecting the board from mains would cause battery drain, as the same thing happens when you switch off the power to the console. Usually the power switch is the first thing on the inside of the console before the input leads hit the power supply. I am thinking more along the lines of a bad chip causing excessive draw.


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## DuckJordan (Jan 19, 2010)

Les said:


> I don't think disconnecting the board from mains would cause battery drain, as the same thing happens when you switch off the power to the console. Usually the power switch is the first thing on the inside of the console before the input leads hit the power supply. I am thinking more along the lines of a bad chip causing excessive draw.



When you shut off power to a console it still sucks a very small amount of electricity from the outlet. this is to keep the battery inside the console unused/recharged and to keep the memory in the ram just that. I was not stating the power switch on the console. I was speaking of a switch on a power strip or wall outlet. just because the button says off doesn't mean its actually "off". 
Just think about your standard computer. it never really turns off, unless you unplug the computer. there is a small watch battery inside your computer for those just in case moments when power is lost temporarily. once it is plugged back in or power restored to the computer it recharges this watch battery.


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## zuixro (Jan 19, 2010)

DuckJordan said:


> When you shut off power to a console it still sucks a very small amount of electricity from the outlet. this is to keep the battery inside the console unused/recharged and to keep the memory in the ram just that. I was not stating the power switch on the console. I was speaking of a switch on a power strip or wall outlet. just because the button says off doesn't mean its actually "off".
> Just think about your standard computer. it never really turns off, unless you unplug the computer. there is a small watch battery inside your computer for those just in case moments when power is lost temporarily. once it is plugged back in or power restored to the computer it recharges this watch battery.



Most of those batteries are CR2032 button cells. Those are not rechargeable. The button cell is there to keep time in the clock while the computer is off (some computers also use it to store some BIOS settings)


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## DuckJordan (Jan 19, 2010)

which is also why they do not drain nearly as fast as they are not trying to hold more info.


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## MillburyAuditorium (Jan 19, 2010)

Photo, No I do not think it is.

Les, yeah me too.

Photo, Theres is no one here who would know anything about it, but I will inspect the circuit board closer tomorrow.



I do not believe that the power breakers are switched off during the nighttime. 
And it is plugged into a power strip, but that is always on. 
But none of that matters, this is what happens, (Example)
I put a new battery in out of package, I close the board, I plug it in, I turn it on, I set it up, save some subs and soft patch some channels, I switch off the board, it is still plugged in, I turn it back on within a few minutes of it being off, all settings are gone, I test the battery and it is nearly depleted.

The connection terminal has been testing and it should be working fine. It must be some chip or the ram drawing huge amounts of power from the battery.

We have gone through countless batterys and given up. The board board stays turned on 24/7 now and we disconnect the DMX when not in use.


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## DuckJordan (Jan 19, 2010)

yeah it sounds to me like the battery connection is being shorted out is the battery warm when you take it out? also make sure there is nothing on the connectors on the circuit board that could possibly cause an arc to occur.


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## Les (Jan 19, 2010)

DuckJordan said:


> When you shut off power to a console it still sucks a very small amount of electricity from the outlet. this is to keep the battery inside the console unused/recharged and to keep the memory in the ram just that. I was not stating the power switch on the console. I was speaking of a switch on a power strip or wall outlet. just because the button says off doesn't mean its actually "off".
> Just think about your standard computer. it never really turns off, unless you unplug the computer. there is a small watch battery inside your computer for those just in case moments when power is lost temporarily. once it is plugged back in or power restored to the computer it recharges this watch battery.



You're right, but that doesn't really explain why some consoles can live in road cases half their lives and still not have this problem. I think that in this case, something else is going on. 

(sorry if this is drifting off topic)


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## MillburyAuditorium (Jan 19, 2010)

I haven't noticed the temperature. And I have cleaned it out as well.

Even if the board was working to 100% of its potention, unlike it running at like 30..we still would be getting a new one soon as it only has 48 control channels and we have 70.


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## photoatdv (Jan 20, 2010)

If you can get someone suitably qualified to help, you can meter the current draw of the battery when you put it in. That should help verify the problem is excessive draw. Also there may be damage resulting from the excessive current draw... for this to be happening it must be many times the normal draw.

Actually, do you know how to use and have access to a multimeter?


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## n1ist (Jan 20, 2010)

If you do want to measure current draw, stick a piece of paper between the battery and upper terminal - that will break the circuit and give you a convenient place to measure. Looking at the data sheet, you shouldn't be pulling more than 0.03 mA.
/mike


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## billn (Jan 25, 2010)

The first thing to check is that the battery is in the right way and not upside down. If I recall correctly, unlike most other types of batteries, the smaller terminal is negative, not positive.

If that is ok, you can check whether there is a charging current. That can be done in the same manner as n1ist suggested in #64.


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