# Hooking Light Clamps to an I beam



## gmff (May 22, 2016)

Due to a Rooftop AC leak at the school theater we use for a yearly dance recital that trashed the floor we have to move to another school where there is no lighting system or place to hang lights.
Hanging the over the house lights I will be installing a batten on the basket ball backboard holders and hooking the lights to that and with enough cord we can make that work. The problem the stage which is usually the band and chorus room there is nothing except an I beam 18' above the floor to screw the lights to. It looks like I will need to add a piece of wood to take up the space because the clamps will not tighten down enough to tighten to the beam. If you have another recommendation I am open to that. We got bounced from our regular place on Thursday and this is the only place that we could move into quickly and easily enough to make everything work. I will be moving the strapping that is hung 9' above the floor with some 12 ga copper wiring that they stripped down from some romex. The school staples some bed sheets to the strapping so they have a background for graduation.


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## Amiers (May 22, 2016)

I would recommend getting some lighting trees over putting wood spacers on the bean so your clamps will accommodate. 

Or

The proper clamps to fit your ibeam. Here are some clamps that might work. You didn't say what style beam you have so spec the clamps accordingly.
https://www.grainger.com/category/ecatalog/N-1z0dund


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## derekleffew (May 22, 2016)

gmff said:


> ... It looks like I will need to add a piece of wood to take up the space because the clamps will not tighten down enough to tighten to the beam.


Don't do that!

Remove the existing lighting c-clamp and get yourself some "I-beam conduit clamp s" from any electrical supply house (not sure about Lowe's/HomeDepot though). They're not very expensive.


https://www.lawsonproducts.com/lawson/I-beam-Conduit-Clamp-38/28658.lp

Goes as oriented on one side of the lower flange of the beam, then a 3/8" bolt goes head-down up thru the fixture's yoke. Safety around the entire beam (may take two safety cable s per instrument).

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gmff said:


> ... The school staples some bed sheets to the strapping so they have a background for graduation.


Well, that's just plain sad.


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## BillESC (May 22, 2016)

I use beam clamps all the time for hanging fixtures.


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## Goatman (May 22, 2016)

Welll, I have seen the local union use wooden blocks (1x1s cut into very short pieces) to hang lights over a very expensive Porsche at a car show... I'm not saying it was right, but I did see it from union members.

I have also done it myself, but it always feels very dirty. I will probably go out and buy myself a starter pack of those clamps.


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## Skervald (May 22, 2016)

They're on the expensive side but I've used these with good success in the past:

http://www.stagelightingstore.com/Shop-By-Brand/Light-Source-Purlin-Clamps

Add mentioned before, always safety. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## Les (May 22, 2016)

Don't use wood blocks. Wood tends to compress and it can split. You're only relying on friction. I've seen it done but it is unsafe.

Lowe's and Home Depot both carry beam clamps. $6 for the large to accept your 1/2" yoke bolt. Derek linked to the smaller 3/8 variety, which would probably work fine, but I prefer the big beefy ones. An electrical supply house might be cheaper in bulk, and have more in stock at any given time. They're not designed for stage lighting, but they are designed for hanging heavy things from I-beams, often overhead, so they're certainly suitable.

The 1/2" bolts from your c-clamps may fit these, but could be too long depending on which clamps you use. Last time I installed fixtures on I-beams I think I had to buy 1/2 x 1" bolts.


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## jonliles (May 23, 2016)

+1 ont he beam clamps. They are cheap. Every found-space theatre I've worked in, I'vce given them several beam clamps.

I saw one theatre that used the beam clamp, added the C-clamp do it and hung 10ft sections of pipe in ht c-clamp attached directly to the I-beams with the Beam clamp. Luckly for them their span was opn 8 ft between beams.


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## Dionysus (May 23, 2016)

Another +1 for the beam clamps, I use the ones that take a 1/2" bolt generally and they work great.
Of course when I was younger (in highschool) I admit I had used wood blocks to get it done a number of times, but in retrospect it was a bad idea. Especially after seeing the safety go to full use once when a Fresnel got hit by scaffold (not very hard; also I did not hang that particular light nor was I moving the scaffold). The clamp just slid right off the wood (which hit the deck) and thankfully there was a safety on the fixture.


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## WildBill (May 23, 2016)

gmff said:


> Due to a Rooftop AC leak at the school theater we use for a yearly dance recital that trashed the floor we have to move to another school where there is no lighting system or place to hang lights.
> Hanging the over the house lights I will be installing a batten on the basket ball backboard holders and hooking the lights to that and with enough cord we can make that work. The problem the stage which is usually the band and chorus room there is nothing except an I beam 18' above the floor to screw the lights to. It looks like I will need to add a piece of wood to take up the space because the clamps will not tighten down enough to tighten to the beam. If you have another recommendation I am open to that. We got bounced from our regular place on Thursday and this is the only place that we could move into quickly and easily enough to make everything work. I will be moving the strapping that is hung 9' above the floor with some 12 ga copper wiring that they stripped down from some romex. The school staples some bed sheets to the strapping so they have a background for graduation.




I've used these in the past. They work really well for not-permanent installations. Hopefully, you can find a way to safety the lights around the I beam (or I wouldn't hang em - safety first...). Good luck!

https://www.grainger.com/product/CA...m/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/1RUY3_AS01?$smthumb$

WB


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## RickR (May 24, 2016)

The other solution is Strut. A 12" or so piece of strut with a couple of beam clamp parts (many types) and you can hang whole battens or just more strut. Far more flexible than individual fixture clamps. And often cheaper!


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## MikeJ (May 25, 2016)

Goatman said:


> Welll, I have seen the local union use wooden blocks (1x1s cut into very short pieces) to hang lights over a very expensive Porsche at a car show... I'm not saying it was right, but I did see it from union members.
> 
> I have also done it myself, but it always feels very dirty. I will probably go out and buy myself a starter pack of those clamps.



Yeah...from the box pushers union. You might find better, but you wont pay more. Just because a union rigger's, neighbor's, cousin's, kid, used a wooden block, does not make it a good idea, or an informed choice.


Les said:


> Don't use wood blocks. Wood tends to compress and it can split. You're only relying on friction. I've seen it done but it is unsafe.
> 
> Lowe's and Home Depot both carry beam clamps. $6 for the large to accept your 1/2" yoke bolt. Derek linked to the smaller 3/8 variety, which would probably work fine, but I prefer the big beefy ones. An electrical supply house might be cheaper in bulk, and have more in stock at any given time. They're not designed for stage lighting, but they are designed for hanging heavy things from I-beams, often overhead, so they're certainly suitable.
> 
> The 1/2" bolts from your c-clamps may fit these, but could be too long depending on which clamps you use. Last time I installed fixtures on I-beams I think I had to buy 1/2 x 1" bolts.



I agree, the larger 1/2" ones are much better, bigger and wider clamping area; the smaller ones do work fine for single fixtures though, or small cable pick and such.


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## Goatman (May 26, 2016)

MikeJ said:


> Yeah...from the box pushers union. You might find better, but you wont pay more. Just because a union rigger's, neighbor's, cousin's, kid, used a wooden block, does not make it a good idea, or an informed choice.



I never said it was a good idea. And when I did it, I was super careful to make sure there were no splits in the wood.

In my experience, IA 'employees' tend to do crazy, unsafe things just because they know they can get away with it. It's one of the reason's I've been avoiding the union.


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## MikeJ (May 26, 2016)

Goatman said:


> I never said it was a good idea. And when I did it, I was super careful to make sure there were no splits in the wood.
> 
> In my experience, IA 'employees' tend to do crazy, unsafe things just because they know they can get away with it. It's one of the reason's I've been avoiding the union.



I'm not judging you. You saw it done with the wooden block, did it yourself, then decided beam clamps would be better. Fair enough. As far as some locals go, I don't know if its that they can "get away with things" or that they just don't know any better. Don't get me wrong, there are certainly some very qualified union hands out there, but they are often overshadowed by the boneheaded ones.


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## Dionysus (May 28, 2016)

Goatman said:


> I never said it was a good idea. And when I did it, I was super careful to make sure there were no splits in the wood.
> 
> In my experience, IA 'employees' tend to do crazy, unsafe things just because they know they can get away with it. It's one of the reason's I've been avoiding the union.



Depends on the 'IA employees', the venue, and what they typically do. By a LOT. There are IA guys that do it RIGHT, and there are IA guys who really don't know what they are even doing. It runs the spectrum.


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## Goatman (May 29, 2016)

Dionysus said:


> Depends on the 'IA employees', the venue, and what they typically do. By a LOT. There are IA guys that do it RIGHT, and there are IA guys who really don't know what they are even doing. It runs the spectrum.



I'm sure it does. But in my experience, I've found IA members to be rude and arrogant, and want no part of it, in this particular Local.


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## RonHebbard (May 29, 2016)

Goatman said:


> I'm sure it does. But in my experience, I've found IA members to be rude and arrogant, and want no part of it, in this particular Local.


Some call it nepotism, we call it tradition.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
Retired from IBEW 105, IATSE 129 and IATSE 357.
"You may find better but you'll never spend more!"
(I can feel the flames of Hell licking me now.)


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## Dionysus (May 29, 2016)

RonHebbard said:


> Some call it nepotism, we call it tradition.
> Toodleoo!
> Ron Hebbard
> Retired from IBEW 105, IATSE 129 and IATSE 357.
> ...



Certainly not the first time Ive heard that Ron. oh IATSE 357, a tech can dream.


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## JimOC_1 (Apr 23, 2018)

Thanks for this thread! I used beam clamps for the first time this past weekend. They saved us a ton of work, and gave us more flexibility than our trees would have.


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## Ben Stiegler (Jan 25, 2019)

I learned my lesson with the wood block hack ... even without splitting, they slip. One nonprofit venue I support has unistrut hanging from threaded rod, with blockfilled clamps and ancient instruments. Step 1 was safety cable, which have saved people and instruments a few times. Still $ raising for real schedule pipe. 

Wonder - how many Fresnel drops a safety cable can sustain before it needs replacement?


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## venuetech (Jan 25, 2019)

RonHebbard said:


> Retired from IBEW 105, IATSE 129 and IATSE 357.
> "You may find better but you'll never spend more!"
> (.)


So I understand guys in these locals have trouble lifting their wallets.


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## Van (Jan 25, 2019)

Ben Stiegler said:


> I learned my lesson with the wood block hack ... even without splitting, they slip. One nonprofit venue I support has unistrut hanging from threaded rod, with blockfilled clamps and ancient instruments. Step 1 was safety cable, which have saved people and instruments a few times. Still $ raising for real schedule pipe.
> 
> Wonder - how many Fresnel drops a safety cable can sustain before it needs replacement?


Wow, Why not simply go to using strut nuts and bolts? So much safer.


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## RonHebbard (Jan 25, 2019)

venuetech said:


> So I understand guys in these locals have trouble lifting their wallets.


 *@venuetech* Back in the era when fitters, plumbers, finish carpenters and electricians were paid in cash, during your first year they taught you how to read. In second year they taught you how to add up over a thousand without removing your boots. 
In third year they taught you attach a chain to your wallet. 
In fourth year they taught you to wear suspenders to hold your pants up with your wallet in your pocket. 
In fifth year they taught you to purchase a winter coat with a pocket sturdy enough to contain your wallet *on the inside*. 
Some guys learned to play payday paycheck poker for the full amount and still go home to face their wives. 
Some guys learned how to pass the bar and proceed directly home on pay day. 
Some who learned to pass the barre went on to become ballet dancers, others who passed the bar went on to become lawyers. Apprenticeships changed big time when payment shifted from cash to checks. 
Change isn't always for the better but would buy bubble gum. 
Posting from north of Donald's walls. *@Dionysus* Care to comment*?*
Toodleoo! 
Ron Hebbard


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## Les (Jan 25, 2019)

Van said:


> Wow, Why not simply go to using strut nuts and bolts? So much safer.



This is confusing me too. Just like people using c-clamps on I-beam flanges. They make hardware for both applications, and they are usually cheaper than a c-clamp! They even stock them at Home Depot & Lowe's.


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## Van (Jan 25, 2019)

Les said:


> This is confusing me too. Just like people using c-clamps on I-beam flanges. They make hardware for both applications, and they are usually cheaper than a c-clamp! They even stock them at Home Depot & Lowe's.



I think it might simply be lack of knowledge about the hardware. Folks from a straight theatre background have, most likely, not been exposed to 'real world' hardware. Also, it might be installed upside down.


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## Les (Jan 25, 2019)

Van said:


> I think it might simply be lack of knowledge about the hardware. Folks from a straight theatre background have, most likely, not been exposed to 'real world' hardware. Also, it might be installed upside down.



I think you're probably right that there's a lack of crossover in knowledge of industrial hardware. I grew up around the stuff, so I sort if take it for granted.

I also think a lot of people have a very binary way of thinking about rigging lights, as if the clamp is part of the fixture and it's sacrilegious to do anything different. I've seen people balance a clamp on a wood beam of a set when a lag bolt would have done nicely. "buuut how der i gert thirs c-clermp ter werk?!"


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## gafftapegreenia (Jan 27, 2019)

Les said:


> I think you're probably right that there's a lack of crossover in knowledge of industrial hardware. I grew up around the stuff, so I sort if take it for granted.
> 
> I also think a lot of people have a very binary way of thinking about rigging lights, as if the clamp is part of the fixture and it's sacrilegious to do anything different. I've seen people balance a clamp on a wood beam of a set when a lag bolt would have done nicely. "buuut how der i gert thirs c-clermp ter werk?!"



Learning hardware and threading standards really demystified so much for me. All those knobs and bolts aren’t that special once you’ve found their part numbers in the McMaster catalog. Heck even spending time looking at grip and film equipment opens a whole new world.


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## BillConnerFASTC (Jan 28, 2019)

Gets more complicated when you are told that the fixture listing includes the clamp, or so I understood from ETC in discussing their clamp.


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## gafftapegreenia (Jan 28, 2019)

BillConnerFASTC said:


> Gets more complicated when you are told that the fixture listing includes the clamp, or so I understood from ETC in discussing their clamp.



I thought it was more properly interpreted as the cast iron c clamp is *only* rated when used as part of the listed Source 4 assembly. Use that clamp for another utility purpose and it loses its rating.


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## BillConnerFASTC (Jan 28, 2019)

gafftapegreenia said:


> I thought it was more properly interpreted as the cast iron c clamp is *only* rated when used as part of the listed Source 4 assembly. Use that clamp for another utility purpose and it loses its rating.


Perhaps that's a clearer way of saying it. The clamp is not, as best as I know, actually rated with a safe working load. No one publishes or claims it's good for anything EXCEPT for holding a Source 4 - which it derives from the listing.

PS: I did say it gets complicated.


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## danTt (Jan 28, 2019)

BillConnerFASTC said:


> Perhaps that's a clearer way of saying it. The clamp is not, as best as I know, actually rated with a safe working load. No one publishes or claims it's good for anything EXCEPT for holding a Source 4 - which it derives from the listing.
> 
> PS: I did say it gets complicated.


Assuming you are talking about general cast iron clamps here and not the light-source megaclamp, which AFAIK is rated for general use.


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## Ancient Engineer (Jan 29, 2019)

Ben Stiegler said:


> Wonder - how many Fresnel drops a safety cable can sustain before it needs replacement?



Officially, one and done.

Safety cable has a "Zero" load rating as it is never to be used to actually hold anything in place.

Any safety cable with a kink is unsat.
Any safety cable that has ever had to catch anything is unsat.

My first Local One gig had an instrument "jump" off the pipe to be caught by its safety during a rehearsal.
They re-hung the instrument, fitted a new safety and cut up the old one on the spot.

I once watched a hired "inspector" ding a theater for 35 safeties with kinks and he demanded they be destroyed in his presence.

It was explained to me that while the safety _may_ still be integral enough to catch that S4 a second time, can you prove it?

In today's litigation love-in, messing with safety is a serious thing to be avoided.

I have seen IA folks do some boneheaded stuff but nearly all of the time doing it right (albeit deliberately _i.e._ slowly) was what occurred.

To the OP: Get I-beam clamps!


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## BillConnerFASTC (Jan 29, 2019)

danTt said:


> Assuming you are talking about general cast iron clamps here and not the light-source megaclamp, which AFAIK is rated for general use.



Not any cast iron clamp but ETCs which was tested with their instruments for the listing. And most often - I think always - I specify the rated clamps - available from at least The Light Source, Apollo, and Doughty. Always Light Source or Apollo submitted.


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## gafftapegreenia (Feb 1, 2019)

BillConnerFASTC said:


> Not any cast iron clamp but ETCs which was tested with their instruments for the listing. And most often - I think always - I specify the rated clamps - available from at least The Light Source, Apollo, and Doughty. Always Light Source or Apollo submitted.




The addition of the belleville washer, along with the deletion of the Jesus bolt and the micro grooves, make the Mega Clamp a definite improvement.


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## BillConnerFASTC (Feb 1, 2019)

gafftapegreenia said:


> The addition of the belleville washer, along with the deletion of the Jesus bolt and the micro grooves, make the Mega Clamp a definite improvement.



And it costs less!


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## gafftapegreenia (Feb 1, 2019)

BillConnerFASTC said:


> And it costs less!



Wow, I hadn't realized that. Well, heck.


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## Jay Ashworth (Feb 3, 2019)

Ancient Engineer said:


> Officially, one and done.
> 
> Safety cable has a "Zero" load rating as it is never to be used to actually hold anything in place.
> 
> ...



See, I was gonna say that too... but I was gonna be guessing.


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