# Help for a novice, please: stripping paint



## Mike in Philly (May 12, 2015)

feel free to ignore me, but I ran across your site while trying to research details about bipin bases and figured people here know what I need to know. I am not in theatre.
The quick version, I need clarity about lamp and lamp base standards, etc., specifically what bulb to use in a Osram Sylvania TP-220 G9.5 lamp holder that is short and between 500 and 750W.
I am trying to use high watt bulbs as often used in stage lighting to heat painted surfaces for paint removal. I once bought a hand-held device using a 600w DYS (I believe) "used by photographers and auto body mechanics" that worked nicely, but cost over $100 and didn't last at all (the device, not just the lamps) under persistent use,
so I decided to do some modifications....
which lead me into the unknown world of bulb shapes, the difference between 9.5 vs other size bases, the difference between a "G" and a "GZ", etc., causing me to scratch my head at trying to get the correct lamp and the correct lamp socket together...
I succeeded in getting a working combo through supplies at "BulbAmerica", but again the lamp holder degraded after a few bulbs, heat corrosion at the contacts. So I purchased the above lamp holder that looked like what I wanted...except my GZ bulbs don't fit (You can chuckle)
The advantage of a lamp heat source for stripping paint is two fold,
first) heat guns using hot air are inefficient, and worse, hot air can blow into cracks and start unseen fires, eventually causing a major house fire
second) using the proper wattage one can get enough heat to soften the paint without getting it so hot that it vaporizes lead, creating a health hazard
The only manufactured and marketed devices for painters are large box shaped things good for stripping large flat areas, not trim, like on my ~1895 built house.
So if someone wants to not only help me with a suggestion, but start making a prototype to put on the market maybe it would sell.
Thanks, even if you want to ignore this wordy mess....


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## Amiers (May 12, 2015)

This sounds like a @ship question. He loves specialty projects.


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## JD (May 12, 2015)

Before taking the next step, do a little research on the lifespan of the lamps you are looking at. Most lamps used in theater are expensive due to the precision in the placement of the filaments and this placement may also compromise lifespan. Sounds like you are more interested in heat output. If this is the case you may be better off looking at some of the long life industrial lamps. Also, lamps for theatrical use generally operate at a color temperature (such as 3200k) which compromises life. Industrial lamps usually throw more heat at the expense of the color.


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## Mike in Philly (May 12, 2015)

JD said:


> Before taking the next step, do a little research on the lifespan of the lamps you are looking at. Most lamps used in theater are expensive due to the precision in the placement of the filaments and this placement may also compromise lifespan. Sounds like you are more interested in heat output. If this is the case you may be better off looking at some of the long life industrial lamps. Also, lamps for theatrical use generally operate at a color temperature (such as 3200k) which compromises life. Industrial lamps usually throw more heat at the expense of the color.


Thank you for the suggestions. They are sound advice, but I'm not sure where to go with it,
This saga began by looking for some kind of heat lamp on the McMaster-Carr industrial supply site (like Grainger, the ultimate hardware store online). The device I obtained, marketed for uses as above, had a DYS (I think) 600W bulb. Since then, most of my looking has sent me into the theatre light realm.


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## wolfman005 (May 12, 2015)

Try a 1K par 64


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## JChenault (May 12, 2015)

Have you looked at a heat gun? More heat over a smaller area.


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## techieman33 (May 12, 2015)

That's a pretty standard theatrical socket. Lamps that will go in it include the GLA (575 watt long life), GLC (575 watt normal life, brighter than the GLA), GLD (750w normal life), GLE (750w normal life), FEL (1000w normal life). Since it sounds like you want the light to only hit very specific areas I wouldn't bother doing anything with the socket you bought. I would buy an old altman 360q off of ebay and put one of the above lamps in it. Then you could put it on a stand, or bolt it to a plywood base and use the framing shutters so the light only hit specific areas.


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## Mike in Philly (May 12, 2015)

JChenault said:


> Have you looked at a heat gun? More heat over a smaller area.


I use the heat lamp very close to the surface.
Heat guns take more energy (1250W) (lots of inefficiency in heating blowing air), have a considerably greater chance of causing fires, and can heat leaded paint to the point of vaporizing the lead, necessitating either dangerous work conditions or the use of more than a particulate mask,
but thanks for the thoughts.
The heat lamps designed for painters use quartz lamps like quartz bulb radiant space heaters, but they are too big and bulky for my needs.


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## ship (May 13, 2015)

Lots of questions in trying to understand what you are doing even if general concept of heat lamp over heat gun is understood.
First are these lamps used as a portable IR heat source or more of a fixed source of light in the paint booth?
Have you tried IR heaters? I have one running at the moment in the garage and it’s more than enough to heat the room and often I will put something painted under it. IR heaters can be anything from a ceiling mounted heater thru a R-40 heater lamp one might keep food warm with. Made one for my Wife’s bath tub so as to keep the water worm even. Dental curing low voltage MR-16 lamps also come to mind as another option if portable.
DYS lamp, only rated for 75 hours average life in as per above. There is I am sure paint curing fixtures and lamps on the market in remembering such lamp notes.
Can you take a photo of what you are using to cure the paint and more details of the situation? Yea... the GX, G, GZY etc definitions are often problematic until you get the definitions and are ready to understand the why. I have them if you really really want to know but overall the extra letters mean that the 9.5mm spacing between pins will than in extra letters specify some differences in pin design. Stuff like one pin larger than the other I’m sure you saw.
Big problem comes up about what you are doing in framing the proper advice for a solution. Mark from Osram/Sylvania is also a member and one of his assistants I know well, started his trade in working in that division. Easy enough to answer but more details are needed. That plus you can’t safely just change a lamp and socket in general without considering some fixture issues.

Safety first so yea, nobody is ignoring you and they never would. More details please to get the correct solution though.


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## BillConnerFASTC (May 13, 2015)

Broiler element from an electric range, some sheet metal, stove door handle. Won't break if dropped, just keeps working.


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## Mike in Philly (May 13, 2015)

ship said:


> Lots of questions in trying to understand what you are doing even if general concept of heat lamp over heat gun is understood.
> First are these lamps used as a portable IR heat source or more of a fixed source of light in the paint booth?
> Have you tried IR heaters? I have one running at the moment in the garage and it’s more than enough to heat the room and often I will put something painted under it. IR heaters can be anything from a ceiling mounted heater thru a R-40 heater lamp one might keep food warm with. Made one for my Wife’s bath tub so as to keep the water worm even. Dental curing low voltage MR-16 lamps also come to mind as another option if portable.
> DYS lamp, only rated for 75 hours average life in as per above. There is I am sure paint curing fixtures and lamps on the market in remembering such lamp notes.
> ...



You are all being very kind and helpful and I thank you.
This project is for a portable IR heat source, for softening paint on interior and exterior surfaces of a house.
Actually the first I heard of this concept was a pro painter who had modified a quartz lamp space heater, and I used one like that myself. The only thing I know produced and marketed for this use is most similar to a quartz lamp space heater. But it is big and useful for larger surfaces like the side of a house, not trim work, not around windows, etc. (and it costs $400+, which is a fair amount in my budget).
A 375 W R-40 does work with some things, but it is not quite powerful enough and is likewise bulky and unfocused if trying to strip paint from 2 inch wide molding.
Actually a simple 500W work lamp put on the surface will work sometimes, depending on the properties of the paint.

The thing I originally purchased through McMaster-Carr worked well enough, and it really makes scraping through 100 years of paint layers pretty easy and the life of the bulb was satisfactory. What wasn't satisfactory was the housing, which just degraded over the life of a couple of bulbs. I wasn't going to pay $125 for a device that would last less than a month.
The "short" version is that I used the aluminum housing of a 500 W work lamp to enclose the socket, and then had the issue with breakdown of the contacts inside the socket over time, and then I stumbled onto this lamp holder/socket that seemed it was just what i wanted...until I discovered the mismatch between the GZ9.5 bulbs I have and the G9.5 lamp holder....

Someone suggested just getting a used theatre light can with "barn doors", and maybe that will be the best thing after all, but I think you can see how "one thing led to another" with my adventure above.
I'm old school and like to see things with my eyes and touch them with my fingers, all of this ordering things over the internet has it's problems. yes, one can get virtually anything they want, but unless you know exactly what it is, one can get a lot of "Anything" without it being what you want.

One can buy a heat gun anywhere. they are relatively inexpensive, they do work though they have major problems as i described above, and they are well known. Using IR (including just the IR that comes with a high intensity bulb) is not as well known and the only devices commercially sold go for $400 and nobody stocks them. Nobody knows about them so no one stocks them in the store, no one stocks them in the store, so no one knows about them. If somebody would design something that could sell under $100 it might be quite profitable-though I don't know how much it would cost to get it through regulatory agencies and such.
Thank you all again.


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## Mike in Philly (May 13, 2015)

BillConnerASTC said:


> Broiler element from an electric range, some sheet metal, stove door handle. Won't break if dropped, just keeps working.


That would work for larger surfaces, or maybe mounted above a flat surface as a working platform for window sashes that were removed, etc.
I don't think I want to be holding it while on a ladder doing smaller work, though. ;-)


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## robartsd (May 13, 2015)

A theater could allow you to use a higher wattage lamp than the 375 W R-40 you mentioned but you may not find higher wattage lamps specificly designed for heat. The barn doors would help reduce the spill. An elipsoidal such as the 360Q suggested by @techieman33 is designed to focus light but not heat, so I doubt that would work very well.


> specifically what bulb to use in a Osram Sylvania TP-220 G9.5 lamp holder that is short and between 500 and 750W


Not sure how to quantify "short", but I find a range of lamps that fit a G9.5 lamp holder that are 4-4.5 inches long on bulbs.com. Of the options on that page, I'd probably try the 500 W EHD for your application, but I have no experience with this particular lamp type (I have used 750W EHG).

I understand that the 575W GLA/GLC are comparable to the 750W EHG as used in theatrical elipsoidals due to filament design and look forward to trying them next time I relamp the instruments I use (most likely the lone life GLA), but efficiency for theater does not nessisarily mean best for your situation.


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## BillConnerFASTC (May 13, 2015)

This is interesting: http://makezine.com/projects/infrared-paint-remover-v2/


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## Mike in Philly (May 13, 2015)

BillConnerASTC said:


> This is interesting: http://makezine.com/projects/infrared-paint-remover-v2/


Thanks for looking that up. yes, a variation on the theme. I'll look into it more, later.
As I said before, I started out with a manufactured device that was advertised for this purpose among others and then tried to improve it.
I must say, I have come to appreciate why "just a little metal and glass" can cost so much, a lot of Edison's 99% perspiration needs to be compensated!
FWIW, this was my starting point:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#heat-lamps/=x5y3c4


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## JD (May 13, 2015)

If you like the DYS approach;
Fixture:
https://www.bulbamerica.com/products/par56-black-can-stage-and-theater-par-56-lighting-can
Reflector/socket & Bulb:
https://www.bulbamerica.com/products/dys-600w-bulb-par56-reflector-package-deal
Reflector/socket alone:
https://www.bulbamerica.com/products/optima-lighting-par64-raylite-reflector-for-dys-lamps
Bulb alone:
https://www.bulbamerica.com/products/dys600-lamp-bulbamerica-dys-600w-120v-dys-dyv-bhc-halogen-bulb


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## BillConnerFASTC (May 13, 2015)

I actually can't find what I was looking for and used. Maybe they started too many fires, but basically a coil like an electric range element with a metal hood - about 6 X 12 x 2 - on a handle. Worked great - carbide scraper in one hand (carbide scrapers are fantastic) and heat plate in the other. I saw the broiler element in a two man operation - one with large cookie sheet with two handles and element; the other with scrapers. Very efficient.

I stripped our house - 30 X 36 X two tall stories with a gazillion windows (well - 36 or so) - mostly with the heat plate by myself.


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## ship (May 14, 2015)

Good for more details, now we are all on the same plane in understanding what you are trying to do.
I grew up in a large 1914 house where when bought, every room and hallway was one shade of green or another especially on the oak molding. (Much of it no doubt lead paint in layers but beyond the scope of discussion). Every weekend at home we would spend stripping paint by way of chemicals where needed and especially a few 1.5Kw Heat Mater heat guns with nozzles to flare out the heat. Got to be quite the family challenge to see who could strip off the longest paint layer on a run of molding. Same brand of heat guns with different tips to them for heat shink I use today. Mostly lucky when the old molding their layers of varnish or what ever used originally, didn’t bond with the paint.
Don’t understand the problem with heat guns but back to the IR sources. Incandescent filament lamps only project a small amount of light in the IR range, some color correction I’m sure can be done but for the most part it’s all about the heat from the filiment and the focus of the beam in helping, adding up to efficiency say for a heat source. Length of filament won’t matter much so EHD or GLC or FEL won’t matter for more efficient. Wattage of lamp though plays a role as per the higher the wattage the more IR and heat it generates. For the most part, as per Bill’s great link, you will be doing the same with a PAR can as you could do with a hot plate in using the generated light and heat to get the paint warm enough.
If wanted, I can search for a few IR lamps that are heater lamps, but mostly they from memory are dual ended lamps and or very high wattage. The MR-16 dental curing lamps I mentioned have a focused beam of light which in light beam will cross at a specific distance from the filament and are also optimized for heat generation. Say if doing detail work, something like this might be worth looking into for refined work. Say the same use I would pull out a little princess Weller #6966c for use on.
Let us all know given the link how it’s going and what you do or if any more info is needed. I have a mega lamp base and can do a search on heat generating lamps. For instance in probably discontinued:


#64743HT
Osram #54584
CL, Quartz Spec. Purpose Heat Lamp
1 Kw
T-3
LCL 60.3mm
G 9.5
Any Burn Pos
3,200 K
300 
#54590
Osram #54590
CL, Quartz Spec. Purpose Heat Lamp
1 Kw
T-3
LCL 60.3mm
G 9.5
Any Burn Pos. w. proper cooling
2,950 K
25,000 Lum
2,000 
FRN (64773)
(10/08) Osram #54588
CL, Quartz UV heat Lamp
2 Kw
T-21.7mm
cc-8
LCL 77.5mm
G 9.5
90% electric conv. to UV Radiant Heat, Any Burn Pos.
3,200 K
56,500 Lum
200hr
FRN (Disc. see G-9.5)
Osram #54588
(#64773) CL, Quartz Spec. Purp. Heat Lamp
2 Kw
T-8
cc-8
LCL 77.5mm
G 9.5
(7x30mmFilmt) Any Burn Pos. (IR Heat Projector)
3,200 K
56,500 Lum
200
2500T8Q
(10/08) Osram #54548
CL, Quartz UV Heat Lamp
2.5 Kw
T-27mm
cc-8
LCL 77.5mm
G 9.5
90% electric conv. to UV Radiant Heat, Any Burn Pos.
3,200 K
75,000 Lum
300hr
FRN (Disc. see G-9.5)
Osram #54548
CL, Quartz, Spec. Purp. Heating
2.5Kw
T-8
cc-8
LCL 77.5mm
GY 9.5
T-8/T-6 Fused Silica
3,200 K
55,000 Lum
200
2000T8Q/120V/G22
(3/07) Osram #54537
CL, Quartz Spec. Purpose Heat Lamp
2 Kw
T-25.37mm
12.2x35mm
LCL 79.37mm
G 22
90% Elect. Energy Converted to Radiant Heat, Any Pos.
3,200 K
45,000 Lum
2,000
2000 T8Q (Disc.)
Osram #54577
CL, Quartz Spec. Purpose Heat Lamp
2 Kw
T-8
cc-8
LCL 77.5mm
G 22
Any Pos, (IR Heat Projector)
3,200 K
56,500 Lum
350
[TBODY]
[/TBODY]
Note above is Osram brand - this is only because over the last like 16 years since I have started the table on such lamps I have seen in general catalogues such lamps listed. This is also only single ended lamps with a bi-pin base, there is other types of lamps I didn’t search.


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## gafftaper (May 14, 2015)

Let's break out the Osram Bat Signal... 
Oh Mark @DELO72 do you have any interesting ideas for this?


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## BillConnerFASTC (May 14, 2015)

Having stripped many layers off interior and exterior of old house, having tried most known methods and maybe some unknown, I agree I would avoid the heat gun except on sash removed and flat on a work surface away from the house. Of all the methods, really good carbide bladed scrapers with the heat plate was best for exterior siding and trim. As for lead, I was diagnosed with lead poisoning at the peak of the work, and I'm certain it is simply ingesting the dust, and whether just cold scraping or using a torch, it doesn't matter.

The heat plate I used was under $100 and still works two houses and 30+ years later, no lamps. I'll look for manufacturer and see if still available.

Found it:http://www.hardwareworld.com/Electric-Paint-Remover-pPFKIZS.aspx

Also on Amazon as not currently available. Warner Electric Paint Remover

Oops - not available there either. Look around - great tool.


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## ship (May 15, 2015)

Never thought of the heated up lead paint - perhaps that smoke I saw when heating it up causing health problems.
My eyes are open again in lead paint I peeled, added to the asbestos I was constantly exposed to, car crashes, artillery rounds that might have exploded at times, almost other stuff like almost freezing to death one night while falling asleep on watch.. I have been really lucky so far. As also pointed out I also can see the problems of using a heat gun for layers of exterior paint for both not working well given the thickness and for health concerns - thanks. Didn’t consider such things before.
A note on the DYS lamp, something I had not known before... it is rated for lamp socket base down to horizontal position from what I see for all brands of the lamp industry wide. Wow, that’s interesting considering how useful they are for ray light kits inside a PAR 64. Already a high output in exchange for lamp life lamp, burning the lamp in other than a stated beam angle will also shorten it’s lamp life.
DYS is a high output lamp in exchanging lamp life for output. To get a longer lamp life you have to go higher wattage in getting the same lamp output. This given the IR heat given off by such lamps is still often in the nominal range unless either a heat lamp coated to boost IR light range, or as part of it’s higher wattage or maximized wattage in exchange for lamp life. Lots of "audience blinders" such as the FAY PAR 36 lamp doing the same. Can even get spot versions of them which would more focus the light and while also short lamp life, at least not have that issue of base down to horizontal.
Further note, in addition to focused MR-16 based reflector lamps for dental curing or hardening in even the MR-11 size, there is a "Paint Curing" type of lamp out there. Not really my field. Here is a few in concept (short lamp life.)



#13298
Philips #35436-5(410214)
MR-11, Dich. Quartz (Dental Hardening)
52w/10v
MR-11
MOL41mm
GZ 4
330 mW Curing
Power
/400-500nm, Any Position
25hr
#14553
Philips #26391-3(424488)
MR-11, Dich. Quartz (Dental Hardening)
52w/10v
MR-11MOL
41mm
GZ 4
420 mW Curing
Power
/400-500nm, Any Position
25hr
#14552
Philips #924043217100
MR-11, Dich. Quartz (Dental Hardening)
75w/12v
MR-11MOL
40mm
GZ 4
400 mW Curing
Power
/400-500nm, Any Position
50hr
JCR/M12v-75w/HO
Ushio #1000929
MR-11, Dich Quartz (High Output) Specular Refl.
75w/12v
MR-11
c-8MOL
35mm
G 5.3/4.8
Any Burn Pos. Work Dist. 26.5mm
N/A
N/A
50hr
JCR/M 12v75w/SD
Philips #924813417100
MR-11, Dich Quartz (Dental Hardening)
75w/12v
MR-11MOL
36mm
G5.3/4.8
84 mW Curing
Power
/cm Sq - 330-490nm, Any Pos.
50hr
#14513 Blue
Philips #924033517100
MR-11, Blue Quartz 700nm Absorb (Dental Hardening)
75w/12v
MR-11MOL
35mm
G5.3/4.8
480 mW Curing
Power
/400-500nm, Any Position
50hr
#64613
Osram #54159
MR-11, Quartz Blue Coated
75w/12v
MR-11MOL
35.5mm
G5.3/4.8
(
LCL
26mm)
Base
Down ±105 , Fcl pt 26mm
25hr
#64614
Osram #54152
MR-11, Quartz UV Coated
75w/12v
MR-11MOL
35.5mm
G5.3/4.8
(
LCL
26mm)
Base
Down ±105 , Fcl pt 26mm
25hr
#13865
Philips #26423-4(410719)
MR-11, Dich. Quartz (Dental Hardening)
75w/12v
MR-11MOL
35mm
G5.3/4.8
480 mW Curing
Power
/400-500nm, Any Position
50hr
JCR/M12v/100w/SD
Philips #924812617100
(#12037) MR-11, Dich. Quartz (Dental Hardening)
100w/12v
MR-11MOL
37mm
G5.3/4.8
119 mW Curing
Power
/cm Sq - 330-490nm, Any Pos.
25hr
#64635 HLX
Osram #54162
MR-16, CL, Quartz Gold
Reflector

150w/15v
MR-16MOL
45mm
GZ 6.35
Burn Horz +90 , Focal pt 19mm
50hr
EFR
G.E. #41254
(A1-232) MR-16 Quartz Dich. Multi-Mirror
150w/15v
MR-16
cc-6MOL
1.3/4"
GZ 6.35Base
Down to Horz.
3,350 K
50hr
EFR
Philips #31490-6
(#6423) MR-16, CL, Quartz Dich.
150w/15v
MR-16
c-6MOL
42mm
GZ 6.35Base
Down to Horz
3,350 K
50hr
EFR
Osram #54161 (Disc.)
#64634 HLX (A1/232) MR-16, CL Quartz White Reflect
150w/15v
MR-16
T-3.1/2MOL
42mm
GZ 6.35
Burn Horz +90 / -15 , Focal pt 32mm
50hr
EFR
Osram #54210
(#64634 HLX) (A1/232) MR-16, CL, Quartz White Reflect.
150w/15v
MR-16
c-8MOL
42mm
GZ 6.35
Burn Horz +90 / -15 , Focal pt 32mm
50hr
EFR/B
Philips #924800418500
(JCR 15v150/W5-B) MR-16, Blue Quartz
150w/15v
MR-16MOL
42mm
GZ 6.35
(Dental Hardening) Blue-Reflects Less 700nm
50hr
EFR/FO
Philips #924048218500
(#6423 FO) (A1/232) MR-16, Quartz
150w/15v
MR-16MOL
42mm
GZ 6.35Base
Down ±105
3,400 K
800 Lum
50hr
EFR/XHP/FO
Philips #924044218500
(#6423 XHP/FO) (A1/232) MR-16, Quartz
150w/15v
MR-16MOL
42mm
GZ 6.35Base
Down ±105
3,400 K
950 Lum
50hr
EFR
Ushio #1000272
MR-16, Dich. Quartz, Specular
Reflector
(50 BA.)
150w/15v
MR-16
c-8MOL
42mm
GZ 6.35
Work Dist. 32mm,
Base
Down to Horz.
3,400 K
50hr
EFR
Wiko #10236
MR-16, Dich. Quartz
150w/15v
MR-16
c-8MOL
42mm
GZ 6.35
3,400 K
50hr
EFR
Norman Lamps
MR-16, Quartz
150w/15v
MR-16
cc-6MOL
1.3/4"
2-Pin
3,350 K
50hr
EFR
Halco
MR-16, Quartz
150w/15v
MR-16
cc-6
2-PinBase
Down to Horz.
3,350 K
50hr
EFR-5/X
Osram #54211
(#64620)(A1/232) MR-16, CL, Quartz White Smooth Ref
150w/15v
MR-16
c-8/T-3.½MOL
42mm
GY 6.35Axial
Filmt. Burn Horz +90 / -15 , Focal pt 32mm
6% less than EFR
500hr
EFR/5H (#6423/5H)
Philips #13656-4
(JCR 15-150 5H) (A1/223/5H) MR-16, Dich. Quartz Smooth
150w/15v
MR-16MOL
43mm
GZ 6.35
Any Burn Pos. "Broadway Disco Lamp"
3,100 K
500hr
EFR/5H 3/03)
Philips #924793618500
(JCR 15-150 H5) (A1/233-5H) MR-16 Smooth Dich
150w/15v
MR-16MOL
43mm
GZ 6.35
Any Burn. Pos.
3,100 K
500hr
EFR/5H (7/04)
Philips #13656-4
(A1/233) (#6423/5H) MR-16, Dich. Quartz
150w/15v
MR-16MOL
48mm
GZ 6.35
Any Pos. P-3 Tech
?3,400 K
500hr
JCR 15v150w 5H
Philips #24923-5
(H5-EFR) MR-16, Quartz Dich.
150w/15v
MR-16
c-8MOL
42mm
GZ 6.35
"Focusline"
Base
Down ±90
3,100 K
60,000
Lux

500hr
Very specilized field such as you are looking towards solving the problem with. Stage and Studio lamps I don’t really think the best option. Yea, Bat Signal to Mark as he can figure out who is best from that brand to figure out how to solve this invention problem if not already solved by the above links. Other manufacturers of lamps also you can probably contact on line or thru your supplier.


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## ship (May 15, 2015)

Never thought of the heated up lead paint - perhaps that smoke I saw when heating it up also causes health problems in the lead paint fumes breathed in? 
My eyes are open again in lead paint I peeled, added to the asbestos I was exposed to, car crashes, artillery rounds that might have exploded many times, almost other stuff like almost freezing to death one night while falling asleep on watch.. I have been really lucky so far. As also pointed out I also can now see the problems of using a heat gun for layers of exterior paint for both not working well given the thickness and for health concerns - thanks. Didn’t consider such things before.

A note on the DYS lamp, something I had not known before... it is rated for lamp socket base down to horizontal position from what I see for all brands of the lamp industry wide. Wow, that’s interesting considering how useful they are for ray light kits inside a PAR 64 DJ cans. Already a high output in exchange for lamp life lamp, burning the lamp in other than a stated beam angle will also shorten it’s lamp life.
DYS is a high output lamp in exchanging lamp life for output. To get a longer lamp life you have to go higher wattage in getting the same lamp output. This given the IR heat given off by such lamps is still often in the nominal range unless a heat lamp coated to boost IR light range, or as part of it’s higher wattage or maximized wattage in exchange for lamp life. Lots of "audience blinders" such as the FAY PAR 36 lamp doing the same. Can even get spot versions of them which would more focus the light and while also short lamp life, most at least not have that issue of base down to horizontal.
Further note, in addition to focused MR-16 based reflector lamps for dental curing or hardening in even the MR-11 size, there is a "Paint Curing" type of lamp out there. Not really my field. Here is a few in concept (short lamp life.) I don't have any lamp charts on heat or paint curing lamps in a decent search.


#13298
Philips #35436-5(410214)
MR-11, Dich. Quartz (Dental Hardening)
52w/10v
MR-11
MOL41mm
GZ 4
330 mW Curing Power/400-500nm, Any Position
25hr 
#14553
Philips #26391-3(424488)
MR-11, Dich. Quartz (Dental Hardening)
52w/10v
MR-11
MOL 41mm
GZ 4
420 mW Curing Power/400-500nm, Any Position
25hr 
#14552
Philips #924043217100
MR-11, Dich. Quartz (Dental Hardening)
75w/12v
MR-11
MOL 40mm
GZ 4
400 mW Curing Power/400-500nm, Any Position
50hr 
JCR/M12v-75w/HO
Ushio #1000929
MR-11, Dich Quartz (High Output) Specular Refl.
75w/12v
MR-11
c-8
MOL 35mm
G 5.3/4.8
Any Burn Pos. Work Dist. 26.5mm
N/A
N/A
50hr
JCR/M 12v75w/SD
Philips #924813417100
MR-11, Dich Quartz (Dental Hardening)
75w/12v
MR-11
MOL 36mm
G5.3/4.8
84 mW Curing Power/cm Sq - 330-490nm, Any Pos.
50hr 
#14513 Blue
Philips #924033517100
MR-11, Blue Quartz 700nm Absorb (Dental Hardening)
75w/12v
MR-11
MOL 35mm
G5.3/4.8
480 mW Curing Power/400-500nm, Any Position
50hr 
#64613
Osram #54159
MR-11, Quartz Blue Coated
75w/12v
MR-11
MOL 35.5mm
G5.3/4.8
(LCL 26mm) Base Down ±105 , Fcl pt 26mm
25hr 
#64614
Osram #54152
MR-11, Quartz UV Coated
75w/12v
MR-11
MOL 35.5mm
G5.3/4.8
(LCL 26mm) Base Down ±105 , Fcl pt 26mm
25hr 
#13865
Philips #26423-4(410719)
MR-11, Dich. Quartz (Dental Hardening)
75w/12v
MR-11
MOL 35mm
G5.3/4.8
480 mW Curing Power/400-500nm, Any Position
50hr 
JCR/M12v/100w/SD
Philips #924812617100
(#12037) MR-11, Dich. Quartz (Dental Hardening)
100w/12v
MR-11
MOL 37mm
G5.3/4.8
119 mW Curing Power/cm Sq - 330-490nm, Any Pos.
25hr 
#64635 HLX
Osram #54162
MR-16, CL, Quartz Gold Reflector
150w/15v
MR-16
MOL 45mm
GZ 6.35
Burn Horz +90 , Focal pt 19mm
50hr 
EFR
G.E. #41254
(A1-232) MR-16 Quartz Dich. Multi-Mirror
150w/15v
MR-16
cc-6
MOL 1.3/4"
GZ 6.35
Base Down to Horz.
3,350 K
50hr 
EFR
Philips #31490-6
(#6423) MR-16, CL, Quartz Dich.
150w/15v
MR-16
c-6
MOL 42mm
GZ 6.35
Base Down to Horz
3,350 K
50hr 
EFR
Osram #54161 (Disc.)
#64634 HLX (A1/232) MR-16, CL Quartz White Reflect
150w/15v
MR-16
T-3.1/2
MOL 42mm
GZ 6.35
Burn Horz +90 / -15 , Focal pt 32mm
50hr 
EFR
Osram #54210
(#64634 HLX) (A1/232) MR-16, CL, Quartz White Reflect.
150w/15v
MR-16
c-8
MOL 42mm
GZ 6.35
Burn Horz +90 / -15 , Focal pt 32mm
50hr 
EFR/B
Philips #924800418500
(JCR 15v150/W5-B) MR-16, Blue Quartz
150w/15v
MR-16
MOL 42mm
GZ 6.35
(Dental Hardening) Blue-Reflects Less 700nm
50hr 
EFR/FO
Philips #924048218500
(#6423 FO) (A1/232) MR-16, Quartz
150w/15v
MR-16
MOL 42mm
GZ 6.35
Base Down ±105
3,400 K
800 Lum
50hr 
EFR/XHP/FO
Philips #924044218500
(#6423 XHP/FO) (A1/232) MR-16, Quartz
150w/15v
MR-16
MOL 42mm
GZ 6.35
Base Down ±105
3,400 K
950 Lum
50hr 
EFR
Ushio #1000272
MR-16, Dich. Quartz, Specular Reflector (50 BA.)
150w/15v
MR-16
c-8
MOL 42mm
GZ 6.35
Work Dist. 32mm, Base Down to Horz.
3,400 K
50hr 
EFR
Wiko #10236
MR-16, Dich. Quartz
150w/15v
MR-16
c-8
MOL 42mm
GZ 6.35
3,400 K
50hr 
EFR
Norman Lamps
MR-16, Quartz
150w/15v
MR-16
cc-6
MOL 1.3/4"
2-Pin
3,350 K
50hr 
EFR
Halco
MR-16, Quartz
150w/15v
MR-16
cc-6
2-Pin
Base Down to Horz.
3,350 K
50hr 
EFR-5/X
Osram #54211
(#64620)(A1/232) MR-16, CL, Quartz White Smooth Ref
150w/15v
MR-16
c-8/T-3.½
MOL 42mm
GY 6.35
Axial Filmt. Burn Horz +90 / -15 , Focal pt 32mm
6% less than EFR
500hr 
EFR/5H (#6423/5H)
Philips #13656-4
(JCR 15-150 5H) (A1/223/5H) MR-16, Dich. Quartz Smooth
150w/15v
MR-16
MOL 43mm
GZ 6.35
Any Burn Pos. "Broadway Disco Lamp"
3,100 K
500hr 
EFR/5H 3/03)
Philips #924793618500
(JCR 15-150 H5) (A1/233-5H) MR-16 Smooth Dich
150w/15v
MR-16
MOL 43mm
GZ 6.35
Any Burn. Pos.
3,100 K
500hr 
EFR/5H (7/04)
Philips #13656-4
(A1/233) (#6423/5H) MR-16, Dich. Quartz
150w/15v
MR-16
MOL 48mm
GZ 6.35
Any Pos. P-3 Tech
?3,400 K
500hr 
JCR 15v150w 5H
Philips #24923-5
(H5-EFR) MR-16, Quartz Dich.
150w/15v
MR-16
c-8
MOL 42mm
GZ 6.35
"Focusline" Base Down ±90
3,100 K
60,000 Lux
500hr
[TBODY]
[/TBODY]
Very specilized field such as you are looking towards solving the problem with. Obviouly these MR-11 and MR-16 lamps if held at optimum focus range would be more like a "little princess" heat gun above and in optimizing the beam not of much use for a wide focus of heat. 

Might look into this range of PAR 36 for something that would do about the same as the DYS better:


DWE
G.E. #41667
PAR 36/1, Quartz MFL (40 x 30 Ba)(HRG)
650 w
PAR36
cc-6
MOL 2.9/16"
Scr.Term
(Base Horz, Dry Only, Explos. Fragmt.)
3,200 K
24,000 Cand
100hr
DWE
Osram/Sylvania #54502
650 w
PAR36
Scr.Term
24,000 Lum
100hr 
DWE
Ushio #1000226
PAR 36, Quartz MFL
650 w
PAR36
MOL 69.9mm
Scr.Term
3,200 K
100hr 
DWE
Norman Lamps
PAR 36, 1/CL, Quartz
650 w
PAR36
MOL 2.9/16"
Scr.Term
Any Burn Pos.
3,200 K
100hr 
DWE
Halco
PAR 36, Quartz
650 w
PAR36
Scr.Term
Base Horz.
3,200 K
24,000 Cand
100hr 
FBE
G.E. #41669
PAR 36/5D, Quartz Dich. SP (25 x 15 Ba)
650 w
PAR36
cc-6
MOL 2.9/16"
Scr.Term
(HRG) (B.Hz. Dry Conditions Only, Exp. Fgmt.)
5,000 K
36,000 Cand
30hr
FBE
Osram/Sylvania #54505
650 w
PAR36
Scr.Term
20,000 Lum
36hr 
FBE
Norman Lamps
PAR 36, 5D/CL, Quartz
650 w
PAR36
MOL 2.7/16"
Scr.Term
5,000 K
30hr 
FBO
G.E. #41671
PAR 36/5, Quartz SP (25 x 15 Ba) (HRG)
650 w
PAR36
cc-6
MOL 2.9/16"
Scr.Term
(B.H, D.O, Explos. Fragmt. when Break)
3,400 K
67,000 Cand
30hr
FBO
Norman Lamps
PAR 36, 5/CL, Quartz
650 w
PAR36
MOL 2.7/16"
Scr.Term
3,400 K
30hr 
FBO
Halco
PAR 36, Quartz
650 w
PAR36
Scr.Term
Burn Horz.
3,400 K
7,500 Cand.
30hr 
FGK
G.E. #41675 (?disc.)
PAR 36/8D, Quartz Dich. MFL 20x30 Ba
650 w
PAR36
cc-6
MOL 2.9/16"
Scr.Term
(Base Horz, Dry Only, Explos. Fragmt.)
5,000 K
1,900L/24,000C
35hr
[TBODY]
[/TBODY]Stage and Studio lamps I don’t really think the best option. Yea, Bat Signal to Mark as he can figure out who is best from that brand to figure out how to solve this invention problem if not already solved by the above links. Other manufacturers of lamps also you can probably contact on line or thru your supplier.


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## venuetech (May 15, 2015)

The OP does not seem to have issues with the lamp life but rather the life of the socket, would adding a larger heat sink to the socket improve the life of the socket?


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## robartsd (May 15, 2015)

The OP believes he has found a better socket but is having difficulty identifying lamps for the socket that fit the need. I imagine factors that would help socket and fixture life would be welcome; as might suggestions for a source of GZ9.5 sockets that would endure better.

The question originally asked was what lamp might be good for a G9.5 socket as the lamp he had used (probably a DYS) required a GZ9.6 socket. The DYS is a 600W lamp putting out about 17,000 lumens at 3200K. The overall lenght of a DYS is 2.5", lamps he has found for the G9.5 are all too long.


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## ship (May 16, 2015)

So in initial checking of my notes, I only did a search of "heat" and not into IR. IR in a search brought up a lot of those two letters amongst brands, IR coatings to reduce heat and lots of other findings. Was a useful search though in remembering to do so while also pulling up some more lamps of interest assuming they are still made. Sorry I don’t have much info on especially the initial lamp specification notes in being old notes including if the lamps are still available but are lamps designed for IR output. Huge list of lamps and hard to update every lamp on it. I also didn’t do a search into R-Lamps as per obvious generating source for IR but included them now from notes as with other finds all of which could be discontinued or still available in the search. (Note: last number on the table is lamp hours)


H7680 HIR
G.E. #17894
PAR 46, Quartz
13v
PAR46
c-8
MOL 3.3/4"
Scr.Term
Halogen Infrared Spotlamp 
H7680 HIR Bulk
G.E. #17890
PAR 46, Quartz
12.8v
PAR46
c-8
MOL 3.3/4"
Scr.Term
Halogen Infrared Spotlamp 
H7680X HIR
G.E. #26694
PAR 46, Quartz, Long Life
13v
PAR46
c-8
MOL 3.3/4"
Scr.Term
Halogen Infrared Spotlamp, Bulk pkg #26695 
#4439X
G.E. #39744 (?disc.)
PAR 46, CL. Incd. (20 x60 BA)
18w/12.8v
PAR46
c-6
MOL 4"
2Cont.Lug
Special Service
900 Cand
300
125R40/HT
Abco #03918
CL, Incd. Infrared/Heat
125 w
R-40
cc-9
MOL 6.1/2"
E-26
Keep Dry, Shatter Risk
5,000 
250R40/1 6pk
G.E. #37770
CL, Incd. Infrared/Heat 6pkg
250 w
R-40
c-9
MOL 6.56"
E-26
Use Lens - Expl. Risk, Keep Dry, Shatter Risk,
2,200
+5,000
250R40/10 6pk
G.E. #37771
Red, Incd. Infrared/Heat (HRG) 6pkg
250 w
R-40
c-9
MOL 6.56"
E-26
Keep Dry, Shatter Risk
+5,000 
250R40/1/CVG
G.E. #46881
CL, Incd. Infrared/Heat, Teflon Coated
250 w
R-40
c-9
MOL 6.56"
E-26
"Cov-R-Gard", Keep Dry, Shatter Risk
2,150
+5,000
250R40/1/STG
G.E. #47224
CL, Incd. Infrared/Heat, Teflon Coated
250 w
R-40
c-9
MOL 6.56"
E-26
Saf-T-Gard", Keep Dry, Shatter Risk
2,150
+5,000
250R40/4
G.E. #20724
CL, Incd. Infrared/Heat BB, Industrial
250 w
R-40
c-9
MOL 7.43"
Med.Skir
Keep Dry, Shatter Risk
+5,000 
250R40/10
Osram #14663
Red Bowl IF, Incd. Infrared (HRG) Gas Filled
250 w
R-40
cc-13
MOL 6.7/8"
E-26
Prot. from Moisture, Porc. Socket, prot. fr. touch. equip.
+5,000 
250R40/HT
Abco #03916
CL, Incd. Infrared/Heat
250 w
R-40
cc-9
MOL 6.1/2"
E-26
130v avbl #04329
5,000 
250R40/HT/R
Abco #03917
Red, Incd. Infrared/Heat
250 w
R-40
cc-9
MOL 6.1/2"
E-26
130v avbl #04330
5,000 
250R40/HT
Abco #04329
CL, Incd. Infrared/Heat
250w/130v
R-40
cc-9
MOL 6.1/2"
E-26
5,000 
250R40/HT
Abco #36936
CL, Incd. Infrared/Heat 6pkg
250w/115-125v
R-40
cc-9
MOL 6.1/2"
E-26
5,000 
250R40/HT/R
Abco #04330
Red, Incd. Infrared/Heat
250w/130v
R-40
cc-9
MOL 6.1/2"
E-26
5,000 
250R40/HT/R
Abco #36937
Red, Incd. Infrared/Heat 6pkg
250w/130v
R-40
cc-9
MOL 6.1/2"
E-26
5,000 
375R40
Osram #14746
Lt. IF. Incd. Infrared/Heat Lamp, Gas Filled
375 w
R-40
c-11
MOL 7.1/4"
Med.Skir
Prot. from Moisture
+5,000 
375R40/1
Osram #14747
CL, Incd. Infrared/Heat Lamp, Gas Filled, HRG
375 w
R-40
c-11
MOL 7.1/4"
Med.Skir
Operate only in Porc. Socket
+5,000 
375R40/HT
Abco #03915
CL, Incd. Infrared/Heat
375 w
R-40
cc-9
MOL 6.1/2"
E-26
5,000 
R40CL375
Halco #104048
CL, Incd. Infrared
375 w
R-40
c-9
MOL 6.9/16"
E-26
1,730 Lum
5,000 
R40CL375/SKT
Halco #104049
CL, Incd. Infrared
375 w
R-40
c-9
MOL 7"
Med.Skir
1,730 Lum
5,000 
250BR40/4
Osram #14745
IF. Incd. Gas Filled Infared Heat, Industrial Gr.
250 w
BR-40
c-11
MOL 7.1/4"
E-26
Prot. from Moisture
+5,000 
250BR40
Osram #14665
CL. Incd. Gas Filled Infared Heat
250 w
BR-40
cc-6
MOL 6.1/2"
E-26
Prot. from Moisture, 6pkg avbl #146564
+5,000 
BR40CL250/1
Halco #404068
CL. Incd. Infrared
250 w
BR-40
c-9
MOL 6.1/2"
E-26
6,000 
BR40RED250/10
Halco #104044
Red Faced Incd. Infrared
250w/125v
BR-40
c-9
MOL 6.1/2"
E-26
5,000 
250BR40HR/TF
Bulbrite #714625
Red, Incd Tough Coated Shatter Proof
250w/130v
BR-40
MOL 6.1/2"
E-26
5,000 
BR40TF250/10
Halco #404071
IF. Red Incd. Teflon Coated
250 w
BR-40
c-9
MOL 6.1/2"
E-26 
375BR40
Osram #14746
IF, Incd. Infrared Industrial Heat Lamp, Gas Filled
375 w
BR-40
c-11
MOL 7.1/4"
Med.Skir
Porc. Socket, Prot. fr. Moist & Equip. Touch Blb
5,000 
[TBODY]
[/TBODY]In the general catalogues for lamps I have installed into my notes over the years - literally going page by page of any or all catalogues I could get, heat lamps such are not much listed. Hope such info is at least a start if searching for the best lamp for your project.


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## ship (May 16, 2015)

robartsd said:


> The OP believes he has found a better socket but is having difficulty identifying lamps for the socket that fit the need. I imagine factors that would help socket and fixture life would be welcome; as might suggestions for a source of GZ9.5 sockets that would endure better.
> 
> The question originally asked was what lamp might be good for a G9.5 socket as the lamp he had used (probably a DYS) required a GZ9.6 socket. The DYS is a 600W lamp putting out about 17,000 lumens at 3200K. The overall lenght of a DYS is 2.5", lamps he has found for the G9.5 are all too long.



The point mostly present is that in such a lamp and socket, it won't work, and find another source of light and socket which will work better. 

GZ-9.5 sockets are designed about a lamp and light fixture it's used in, the DYS isn't really suitable in while high output/short life is also going to be shortened in lamp life if you use it in the wrong burn position in not working efficiently towards that lamp life. Heat sinks as with better yet if even forced cooling on the lamp will help some in counteracting this damage to the socket and lamp some, but it's still not going to work out as a lamp even if you help it with cooling because of it's expected lamp life. 

Lamp sockets... will a GZ-9.5 from Kupo in a ray light kit work in a Lowell Omni Light = certainly not, same lamp used but completely different lamp socket. Ushio might be worth looking into for a GZ-9.5 socket in me not looking into if they make one for this unknown light in use, lots of brands make lamp sockets: Buhl, Osram, Leviton, Bender & Wirth, Fulham, Ushio, Etlin-Daniels, AAG Stucchi, EMF Corp, Etlin-Daniels, F.W. Morse, HI Tech Lamps, JKL Components Corp., Lighting Components and Design Inc., and Mitronix. What specific lighting fixture is this lamp socket to go into? Perhaps one of the above brands of lamp socket manufacturers I am aware of might have a better lamp socket.

As for going G-9.5 I posted I think some G-9.5 lamps that might be IR if still made and others recommended such as the GLC or I might the below if still made. As posted in general you would have to go higher wattage for a G-9.5 base and such lamps probably require forced cooling internally. Answer... no lamp for either socket will work best.


#54590
Osram #54590
CL, Quartz Spec. Purpose Heat Lamp
1 Kw
T-3
LCL 60.3mm
G 9.5
Any Burn Pos. w. proper cooling
2,950 K
25,000 Lum
2,000
[TBODY]
[/TBODY]


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## DELO72 (May 18, 2015)

Now Ship is in the right direction. What you are really looking for is something that puts out more heat than light. (which is the opposite of all energy legislation). This is a lamp designed specifically for heat/IR application-- The gold coated reflector (or aluminum coated ones) direct ALL the wavelengths forward, thus sending the IR forward as well. All Dichroic reflectors send the visible light forward, but allow the IR to pass through, so they are terrible as heat lamps. A good idea is the PAR 38/R40 types I think Ship listed up above. Those are designed specifically for that purpose. A G9.5 socket (and lamp) is a bad choice (Unless you are a Silicon Wafer Manufacturer) as you need to capture the heat and direct it forward efficiently.



#64635 HLX
Osram #54162
MR-16, CL, Quartz Gold Reflector
150w/15v
MR-16
MOL 45mm
GZ 6.35
Burn Horz +90 , Focal pt 19mm
50hr
[TBODY]
[/TBODY]


----------

